Fall fertilizer

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karmapoliceman
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I live in Pearland and will be fertilizing my yard soon since the heat wave appears to be over. We just layed sod down in late May (front yard) and early june (back yard), and we have a typical amount of weeds for a new lawn (mostly crab grass, some clovers, etc.).

Any suggestions on fertilizer brand or ratio? So far, we have had Scotts Weed and Feed and Winterizer suggested to us by two different people, but I have no experience with either.
rhoswen
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http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/answers4you/fertilization.htm
Philip J Fry
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Take it to the lawn and garden forum.
rhoswen
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was the sod laid over dirt, like a new house? or did you have an existing lawn that you resodded? this will make a difference when it comes to thatch, etc.
karmapoliceman
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The sod was laid over dirt.
uncover&humpit
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First of all, fertilizing in the fall isnt such a great idea, you get alot of growth right before the grass goes dormant and can cause problems in the spring also cool season weeds and disease can set in on your lawn. Your best bet is to top dress your lawn with compost once it has gone dormant (December or January) with about 1 inch of compost. The combination weed and feeds and the national brands are not that great, go to a local feed store or a lawn and garden store to buy fertilizer that is blended for your area and make sure to not over fertilize. Not only does it pollute it can kill your grass or cause disease and pest problems.

[This message has been edited by uncover&humpit (edited 10/11/2005 10:42a).]
B-1 83
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quote:
First of all, fertilizing in the fall isnt such a great idea,


OMG....... this cannot be further from the truth!!!!!!!!!!! I can see it is time for "Ask the Agronomist(TM)".

The fall fertilization is by far the most important one for a lawn. It is now October 11, and the vast majority of your growth is gone - the days are just too short. If you are using a commercial, inorganic fertilizer, I might still hold up for a week or two. I highly recommend an organic fertilizer like "Texas T" or the new Medina pelleted fertilizer. If you are going inorganic, the Scotts line is very good. The danger with applying inorganics too early (especially cheap inorganics) is the possibility of causing brown patch. Excessive readily available nitrogen seems to bring it on.

Avoid the "Weed and Feed" products - they contain chemicals that can cause damage to flower beds, shrubs, and trees.

A good pre-emerge such as Betasan can go on NOW to stop winter weeds.
Dough
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B1-83,
I've got a background in Agronomy myself, although not nearly as in depth as you AND I'm no longer in the 'green industry'.

One thing you didn't mention (perhaps purposely) is to use a fertilizer with a lower N to P and K ratio than in spring. That will help you with the brown patch issue you mentioned, plus give your yard what it really needs for the fall/winter...strong roots.
Feel free to edit/correct as you see fit!!



John 3:16

"Thirty years ago kids talked about their duties and responsibilities ... today they talk about their rights and privileges."



B-1 83
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Good point. Most quality "winterizers" will have a higher ration of P and K than their spring and summer cousins. The beauty of the organics is that their slow release nature won't give that flush of N which can led to disease problems.
karmapoliceman
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Are there any downsides to using an organic fertilizer? It sounds like slow release is the primary thing, but in my case with the winter coming up, that seems to be an advantage. From what you've said, I'm leaning toward Texas T, but I will appreciate any other comments/suggestions.

Thanks for your help!
B-1 83
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The only downside I have found is the cost - about 1/3 - 1/2 more expensive. I was once a "Doubting Thomas" on the organics, but after 3 full growing seasons and running side by side comparisons (w/soil tests to back it up), I'm a believer. My yard has never looked better and holds its color better than before. I have high pH soils that tend to tie up iron and zinc, so I supplement with Green Sand - it will cost the same as Ironite or Iron-Sul.
rwtxag83
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You should try the E-Z Gro 18-6-12 Winterizer. It was invented by an Aggie, Marion Bozarth (class of 47 or 49, can't remember), and is formulated for Texas. It works great.

Avoid weed and feed products just like the famous B-1 says. If your turf is being fertilized on a regular basis ( Marion Bozarth recommends 19-5-9 in April and July, 18-6-12 in October), watered and mowed frequently, chances are you'll take care of most of the weeds by the grass overtaking them.
B-1 83
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EZ Grow is a Texas product and ranks high on the inorganic "good guy" list.
rwtxag83
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Betasan is a good product. A company called Gren Light used to make this stuff called Amaze to help keep away the weeds as well. You need to apply these in October and then again in February before it warms up for best results.

These products are pre-emergent herbicides. They don't actually kill any weeds, they keep seeds from germinating. Most of those weeds you get in your lawn come from wind blown seed. The pre-emergent keeps the seeds from sprouting and taking hold, thus ending the cycle.

Don't use a pre-emergent some place where you plan on planting seeds later (grass, flowers, veggies) or you will have problems.

I just use the E-Z Gro and pull the few hard core weeds that seem to keep coming back.
uncover&humpit
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My comments weren’t meant as to say don’t amend in the fall, but using chemical fertilizers especially in the fall can invite pests, disease and other problems. What I was trying to convey was that top dressing with compost will give you grass needed nutrients as well as taking care of thatch problems, lowing salinity, and creating more arable soil in your lawn. Chemical fertilizers used in the wrong hands cause many more problems then they ever help. Seriously, organics take a little more time to work with, but they work better and are most of the time cheaper and a whole hell of a lot better for the ecosystem.
B-1 83
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The only place I ever use the pre-emerge is between my yard and one neighbor's. He's not much of a yard guy.
B-1 83
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Good quality compost is the absolute best thing anyone can ever do for their lawn. Unless you live in a large city, it can be tough to find. With 8000 sq. ft. of grass, it would take a semi load to cover my lawn.
Gig-Em2003
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Does all of this advice apply to all types of grass. We're in Sugar Land and I believe we have a St. Augustine yard.
rhoswen
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best recommendation, if you're really this into it, is to take a soil sample and send it to be tested here in College Station. That aggieturf.tamu.edu site will tell you where to send it, and how to take a sample.

Since there was no pre-existing lawn, you don't have to worry *too* much about thatch - if you have a thatch problem, putting on pretty much any sort of N will cause disease problems, seeing as how it's been rather damp and kinda cool these past few days.

I'd recommend a low N high P fert, and I'm agreeing with B-1. Technically you could avoid a herbicide til spring... oftentimes just fertilizing the grass will make the grass takeover the weeds - but this depends on how many weeds, how strong the grass is, etc etc.

Also, in the spring and summer, do NOT water at night!!!!!!!! Water early early early in the morning (obviously this easier with a timer system) like 4am. The warm moist conditions over night are a great environment for diseases - my yard got ate up with gray leaf spot this year.

And for everyone else reading this: DO NOT WATER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DAY IN AUGUST. Gah that drives me insane. 80% of the water put out any time between 11am and 6pm is evaporated.

And again, that aggieturf site is real helpful or you could call your local extension agent.
DallasAg2
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So where do you find "Texas T" or the new Medina pelleted fertilizer?

Thanks for Grapevine, TX 76051
rhoswen
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http://county-tx.tamu.edu/
call your extension agent.
Texarkana
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mduncbish
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quote:
The only place I ever use the pre-emerge is between my yard and one neighbor's. He's not much of a yard guy.
Oh I hear thee. I sprayed many-a-gallon of bug killer between mine and my niegbor's yard in an attempt to barricade mine from all his damn chinch bugs. His yard looks like Alaskan Tundra. I battled those little bitty bug *******s all Summer and came out victorious!! My neighbor did not

[This message has been edited by mduncbish (edited 10/11/2005 8:12p).]
B-1 83
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Wally World and Home Depot will usually NOT have the good organic products. Check a good garden store/nursery.

Bugchick made a good point about watering this time of year. If possible, avoid watering at night. As the nights have gotten cooler it is a wonderful time for brown patch to start. Try to start it before sunrise and cut it off in the heat of the day (what little there is now).

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 10/12/2005 7:27a).]
Antman92
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Never use Weed and Feed products. They actually FEED the weeds.

Go with Amaze as a pre-emergent herbicide and something like Weed-B-Gone or Portrait for the existing weeds.
rwtxag83
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Great advice on this thread that's a true blast from the past and well deserved 'Bump', as it's just about time to put down Spring fertilizer.
rwtxag83
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BTW, I wonder if any of these names are still here but using different username now.
LupinusTexensis
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Rip out your lawn and put in some low water natives.
80s Guy
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rwtxag83 said:

BTW, I wonder if any of these names are still here but using different username now.
B1 is the only one i recognize
deer corn
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Lol thatch is a funny (dirty-sounding) word.
IIIHorn
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Reemergents


B-1 83
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Holy #$&@! I was still in Uvalde when this thread started…….still had Teacher Wife '82……still had one child at home….had a dog and cat…….. Times change….

But choosing a good fertilizer has not! Get a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 N-P-K ratio fertilizer with some iron and zinc, plus slow release nitrogen in it. The time is now.
Being in TexAgs jail changes a man……..no, not really
rwtxag83
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B-1 83 said:

Holy #$&@! I was still in Uvalde when this thread started…….still had Teacher Wife '82……still had one child at home….had a dog and cat…….. Times change….

But choosing a good fertilizer has not! Get a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 N-P-K ratio fertilizer with some iron and zinc, plus slow release nitrogen in it. The time is now.
Back in the day, I recommended EZ Gro 19-5-9 in April and July and 18-6-12 winterize in October. Invented by Marion Bozarth '49. I got to meet him and hear him break down why each chemical was necessary, and how they made it to disperse evenly over time. Great guy and great Aggie. When I worked at Milberger's here in San Antonio, we sold more of it by far than any other product, and every customer swore by it's effectiveness.

Blast from the past! Funny how life changes over time for all of us. I wonder what happened to a bunch of those old posters that used to contribute a lot back then.
197361936
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Where's Neil Sperry when you need him.
Anyone who chooses to ride a bicycle in the street is a threat to themselves, and others. If a vehicle strikes you accidentally, YOU are at fault; and the laws of physics supercede all else when you're in the path of a 2 ton killing machine. Know your place, stay off the road.
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