quote:
JJ85- Thanks, yes I was out a beacons yesterday and I thought is was strong then. I found a north county San Diego meet up group I'm going to try to connect with.
Where I start feeling a little unsafe is paddling out. The reason I start feeling unsafe is I get so damn tired because I'm sprint paddling as hard and fast as I can, then I get hit by a breaker and get churned then I'm under the water keep in mind I was huffing and puffing before the wave hit me and now I'm under the water so I can't take a breath. Then I pop up take a giant breath the paddle like hell again.
If I could use a short board and duck dive the waves this would be so much more simple. I'm doing this with a long board so I have to turtle roll.
Do you think I should start trying to learn to short board?
1st, make sure you're in good health. It is hard work, so a little out of breath is okay, as long as you can recover quickly. If you're sucking wind, maybe you should rethink this - it's a pretty physical thing.
Longboard is easier to get up, so if you're starting I'd go long, you'll have more fun.
Shortboard has more control and things you can do, as long as you can get up on it.
If you're doing okay getting up, most prefer the shortboard, but use the longboard until
you're comfortable.
Work on your timing. Waves come in patterns, from every 7th to 13th, can be more or less, but those are typical. Watch for a big one, then count how many before the next big one, see if it repeats. Some folks say it's always the same, but weather and etc are too random for that. If you don't see a pattern, don't sweat it, if you do, work it. Ride out the smalls, then work like a dog to catch the big one and ride it in.
Be safe and enjoy. If you can, get some pro-tips from the old hands out there.