The crazy thing about that wave is how much water is behind it. When most people think of a "40 ft wave" they think of the height of the face. A lot of surfers use the "Hawaiian Method" to measure waves from the back side water level to the top of the wave, which is usually half the height of the face. By the Hawaiian method, this wave is almost zero. It's a huge wave with a weird shape to it. That dude must have been crushed.
Here are some pictures that really show just how much water is in a single wave at Teahupoo (if you screw up there, there's a good chance you will die). It's not just a wall of water, it's a damn building of water.
quote:“My leggie [leg rope] snapped and I got pushed super deep, when I opened my eyes under the water and couldn’t see the surface, I was so deep down."
lucky to be alive. that is SOOOOOO much water i can't really fathom what that would feel like