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Mr./Mrs. "Doctor"

You quote a report published by the entity that is in question, no sh*t that it is going to say they did their job.

As others have said the problem is 2 fold:
1. yes clean air is a good thing (du) but the EPA has become something that it s not supposed to be

2. The reduction you are seeing in the report is not solely the work of the EPA (but of course the EPA will claim they are responsible for all the good, none of the bad)


I do work in an industry that the EPA has substantially regulated parts of. It is the same story, the ideas they are trying to implement are good in concept. The EPA's execution of the concept is what makes it unbearable. We don't mind implementing the pollutant controls, the problem comes when an "inspector" (whose total knowledge comes from a training manual that was created by politicians who modified an engineers recommendation, an engineer that they paid to come up with "stringent" regulations) comes in and sh*t cans our controls and requires more money to be wasted on different (and usually less-effective) controls.

Head shot missed (most doctors are usually bad shots). I would tell you to reload and go again but the 5 minutes I've spent on this is already more than I would like to allot to you.



But, WHAT THE HECK does this have to do with QUICKER STICKER???? They are the real pollutants!

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to get it back on rails:

I too use the old school method. Good bonding time with the wife:

Me: pump it 3 times and hold it

Wife: (pumps, pumps, pumps) ok!

Me: you holding it?

Wife: yes

Me: (open bleeder screw, nothing comes out) Are you sure your holding it down?!?

( I hear the pedal go to the floor)

Wife: YES!!

Me: (laugh) OK, lets do it again.......and this time hold it down after you pump it

repeat a few times. good times

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This conversation could go an entirely different direction if it were on a different forum.

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Flush=/=bleed, but they're very close. You don't need the vac tools for this.

When you flush the brakes, you're simply moving new fluid through the system to replace the old, not trying to get air bubbles out like when you bleed. Flushing can be done with nothing more than a turkey baster, a clear tube, and plastic bottle with a hole drilled in the cap.

To flush using this method, get a 2'-3' long clear tube that fits very snugly over your bleeder valves. Get a plastic bottle and durll a hole in the cap that is the same size as the OD of the tube. Open your master cylinder and suck out most of the brake fluid using a turkey baster, putting it into your bottle. Don't take out all of it. Leave it at the min line if you're not sure how much is too much. Fill the master cylinder with brand new brake fluid. You can go passed the full line because it will all go into the system.

Go to the farthest brake from the master cylinder, slightly crack the bleeder valve (don't open it just yet), and then put one end of the tube over it (yiu may want to zip tie it on as well. Screw the cap on your bottle, and make insert the tube through the hole. Make sure the end is below the fluid level in the bottle and at least part of the tube is always >1 tube diameter above the bleeder valve. This way, any air will always rise in the tube and never be sucked back into the system. Only brake fluid will be sucked into the tube when air is expelled.

Open the bleeder valve just enough for some fluid to come out into the hose, and begin pumping the brakes. There is no need to close the bleeder between pumps, because your tube and bottle setup prevents air from entering the system. Your tube and bottle will eventually fill with old fluid. About every ten pumps or so on the brakes, check the fluid level in your master cylinder and bottle. If the master cylinder gets low, add more new brake fluid. If the bottle gets full, close the bleeder valve, pull the tube out of the bottle, and empty the old brake fluid into a larger container. Since fluid will drain from the tube, it may be helpful to have the bottle in a tub to catch any spills. Leave some in the bottle (1/4 full), and setup the tube and bottle again. Reopen the bleeder and continue. Once you start seeing new brake fluid coming through the tube, close the bleeder and move to the second farthest brake from the master cylinder. You will be able to see a definite color difference if your fluid is dark or dirty. Repeat until you've done all of the brakes and gotten new fluid from each one. I suppose you could bleed with this method, but you may want to prime the hose with some brake fluid at the bleeder. I'd hold up one end of the hose, pour some fluid on with a funnel, and then put the free end into the bottle while making sure the fluid in the tube already stays at the bleeder. This way, fluid will be sucked in as air comes out.

I did this on my wife's 4Runner a couple of weeks ago with great results. I have noticed a significant increase in her braking performance and a firmer feel in the pedal. It also only took about an hour and a half, and I did it by myself.

Also, I forgot to mention earlier that one of the other reasons to regularly change your fluid is to prevent corrosion in your brake lines. The brake fluid holds moisture, which will corrode your lines from the inside. Changing your fluid is the only way to regularly remove this moisture build up and prolong the life of your lines.

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Title edited.

Big brother.

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To flush using this method, get a 2'-3' long clear tube that fits very snugly over your bleeder valves. Get a plastic bottle and durll a hole in the cap that is the same size as the OD of the tube. Open your master cylinder and suck out most of the brake fluid using a turkey baster, putting it into your bottle. Don't take out all of it. Leave it at the min line if you're not sure how much is too much. Fill the master cylinder with brand new brake fluid. You can go passed the full line because it will all go into the system.

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Do you have a picture of this setup or a guide you used? I think i got it down, but I haven't done brakes in a while (nor on my own without guidance), so a little hesitant.

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Mr Dubi changed it this weekend. He said it was totally clean and a waste of his time.

4 years and 7k miles since the last brake fluid change.

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Have you tried driving said vehicle. At all?

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Mr Dubi changed it this weekend. He said it was totally clean and a waste of his time.

4 years and 7k miles since the last brake fluid change.

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Have you tried driving said vehicle. At all?

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We drive it to the gun range every weekend! Pew Pew!

It quit being a DD when Mr Dubi got Miata / Speedy.

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locogringo said:

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to get it back on rails:

I too use the old school method. Good bonding time with the wife:

Me: pump it 3 times and hold it

Wife: (pumps, pumps, pumps) ok!

Me: you holding it?

Wife: yes

Me: (open bleeder screw, nothing comes out) Are you sure your holding it down?!?

( I hear the pedal go to the floor)

Wife: YES!!

Me: (laugh) OK, lets do it again.......and this time hold it down after you pump it

repeat a few times. good times

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maroon barchetta said:

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Wow. That FB thread is something.

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