School on what I need to look for on these cars. I just got offered one in trade for my RV.

In all seriousness though -

A Benz of that vintage needs to have everything looked over; trust me, I have an 1982 W123.

For the R107, I would start here and then proceed to here.

I would also spend a lot of time looking at the R107 section here: https://mercedessource.com/

Awesome, going to look at the car tomorrow.

If you really like R107, I would heartily recommend searching for an 1986-1989 560SL. Dual timing chains, various other improvements made them much more reliable than the earlier models.

Well, this was offered this car in trade.

just stay away from the 1974-1976 models. although they were fuel injected, they were very prone to vapor locking and reliability issues. i would look for either a euro spec 350 or a 560.

I've always wanted a car of this style/vintage, so I'm looking to see what this guy has to offer. The car looks clean, but I'm going to do a full inspection when I see it along with a test drive tomorrow.

The ad he has is here.

At first glace, it looks decent. The carpet is clean, the engine seems clean, and he says there is no smoke of issues with the engine or tranny. My gf's dad has an early 80s 380SL and knows a good mechanic, but that doesn't help much at this point because a) not paying to roll it down to southwest Houston and b) well, he's just not that fond of me. He's the second owner, but he's only had it a year and that is a slight eyebrow raiser.

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School on what I need to look for on these cars. I just got offered one in trade for my RV.

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I have a R107 (560SL).

Check for rust - they weren't big on galvanizing until the 560SL. Especially underneath those aftermarket fender pieces. Also have a look at the A/C. Odds are nearly 100% that it won't work because that looks like the terrible one that was sourced from Chrysler. I think they can be made to work, but are regarded as being universally bad.

The dash will be cracked (they all are), no way around that. Also have a look at the convertible top. The hard top weighs around 100lbs so you'll need help to remove it. There are also seals around everything and at this age it should be obvious if they were changed out or are shrunken and original. Old seals would lead to leaks.

edit: I think the 450SL is exempt from the terrible 380SL single row timing chain problem but you may want to verify that. You'll want to see some kind of timing chain guide/tensioner maintenance being done though since a chunk of plastic coming off a chain guide can really trash things. The upper guides tend to have more problems but they're a lot easier to get to. There may have also been a subframe recall but I'm not sure of the years affected.

Looks clean in the ad, but the Snap On badge on the back isn't exactly a great mod. Basically with a car this age you'll just want to see paperwork, especially for keeping the fuel system and everything else in good shape. Just like anything else.

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School on what I need to look for on these cars. I just got offered one in trade for my RV.

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I have a R107 (560SL).

Check for rust - they weren't big on galvanizing until the 560SL. Especially underneath those aftermarket fender pieces. Also have a look at the A/C. Odds are nearly 100% that it won't work because that looks like the terrible one that was sourced from Chrysler. I think they can be made to work, but are regarded as being universally bad.

The dash will be cracked (they all are), no way around that. Also have a look at the convertible top. The hard top weighs around 100lbs so you'll need help to remove it. There are also seals around everything and at this age it should be obvious if they were changed out or are shrunken and original. Old seals would lead to leaks.

edit: I think the 450SL is from the terrible 380SL single row timing chain problem but you may want to verify that. You'll want to see some kind of timing chain guide/tensioner maintenance being done though since a chunk of plastic coming off a chain guide can really trash things. The upper guides tend to have more problems but they're a lot easier to get to. There may have also been a subframe recall but I'm not sure of the years affected.

Looks clean in the ad, but the Snap On badge on the back isn't exactly a great mod. Basically with a car this age you'll just want to see paperwork, especially for keeping the fuel system and everything else in good shape. Just like anything else.

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100% agree.

The 81+ American spec 380 was the only car with the crap single row chain.

I hate the chrime flares. Often hiding rust.

Not a Jeep brah

Really though give it a look. I've always wanted one of those. They have a classic style to them.

Good luck.

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Not a Jeep brah

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Still drop top though.

+1 on checking for rust.

Mine was a hard top and was rusting around the back window.

Under the chrome flares is also an issue.

Treat it like any car of the same vintage. Any crease or bend that can hold dirt or water needs to be checked.

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Not a Jeep brah

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Still drop top though.

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I may not be Fat Pat but I can appreciate when Tops be Droppin

I am

So I checked out the car today. Found out the guy bought it and another car from a patient and flipped the other car and wants to unload this one because be bought a Jeep. The guy he bought it from was the original owner and it was maintained at a shop here in The Woodlands.

Pros:

• complete, numbers matching car
• the carpet is so clean for a near 40 year old car that it's scary
• current owner replaced fuel system, brake system, and some steering linkage
• brand new tires
• stereo has a new head unit and all the speakers sound good.
• has the hard top in good condition
• all electrical systems were good
• it brakes well
• engine is responsive with no smoke upon start up
• the car just cruises at highway speeds
• only 2 very tiny cracks in the dash that I think can be epoxied
• all of the chrome looks good
• no leaks and the engine bay looks new
• new battery
• all the glass is good with no cracks or pits

Cons:

• lots of slop in the steering wheel, causing the car to wonder around the lane at medium speeds
• OMG, a 3 speed automatic; need I say more?
• idles way low (may be able to correct by just bumping up the idle, but not sure how to do that yet)
• paint looks good from 20 feet, but needs body work and a respray if I want it to look good up close (dings, 2 small dents, road debris/pebble rash along the leading edges, scratches from the hard top)
• The seats have to be recovered
• seat belt tensioners are shot
• 3 inch tear in the soft top
• the plastic windows are fogged all to hell (previous owner never took the hardtop off
• headliner missing from the soft top

Overall, it's a good looking car that I think I'd take in trade if it helps offload the RV. He dropped his asking price and gave me his bottom dollar which is doable in the trade to where I probably wouldn't need to add cash.

Not sure I'd pay cash for the car as there is a BMW E30 'vert in The Woodlands for only $4k that looks really clean and is a stick shift.

What I know applies to the 560SL which is about 10 years newer than what you looked at but...

- Replacing the steering damper took a lot of play out of the steering. It was quick/easy but there's no guarantee the 450SL is set up the same way.
- What's the idle speed? A high idle is a more common problem, but I'm more familiar with that on late 107s / 126s because they share the same idle stabilization valve and controller.
- Recovering the seats isn't actually that difficult/expensive. There are a couple of good places to buy reproductions from and if you want MB-Tex they should be able to be had for under $700.
- A new soft top cost me... $600? They generally aren't repaired, just replaced. I replaced it myself but it's not impossible to find a place that can do it. They come with new windows FWIW.

It sounds cleaner than mine. If you took it in trade what would you essentially be paying for it and is that one priced comparably to others in your area?

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What I know applies to the 560SL which is about 10 years newer than what you looked at but...

- Replacing the steering damper took a lot of play out of the steering. It was quick/easy but there's no guarantee the 450SL is set up the same way.
- What's the idle speed? A high idle is a more common problem, but I'm more familiar with that on late 107s / 126s because they share the same idle stabilization valve and controller.
- Recovering the seats isn't actually that difficult/expensive. There are a couple of good places to buy reproductions from and if you want MB-Tex they should be able to be had for under $700.
- A new soft top cost me... $600? They generally aren't repaired, just replaced. I replaced it myself but it's not impossible to find a place that can do it. They come with new windows FWIW.

It sounds cleaner than mine. If you took it in trade what would you essentially be paying for it and is that one priced comparably to others in your area?

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It idles around 800-900 until you turn on the AC then drops to about 500. Placed into gear, it drops below 500.


I have my rig priced at $8500 and he said his bottom dollar is lower than that. I saw the receipts for the work he had done and it totaled about $2000. I may take it on trade, but if the rig sells elsewhere for cash, I'd think I'd rather take the cash and pick up an E30 vert and Merc 300D and still come out cheaper.

If it's an '87 or later I'd be all over it. The Motronic cars I've owned have always been the easiest to troubleshoot and most reliable. Much easier than anything Jetronic.

Pricing for these things is just all over the place right now. A couple of published guides showed a spike in values like the W113s had a few years ago, but who knows if the cars that feed those numbers actually sell. I searched locally and there are four 560SLs listed, three close to 200K miles with an average price about $8,500 and another with 125K/$7,200 and bad pictures that look like it's been parked in someone's yard (odometer gear is probably broken anyway). I don't see the cheap ones listed for sale much any more, the kind that need obvious work and are listed for under $5K.

I like my 560SL most of the time... when I'm trying to work on a huge engine they shoehorned into a small car it drives me crazy. I'm not sure if it'll still be in our garage in a couple more years but it could be if values jump up and stay there, and if I'm able to get the interior straightened out.

A 86+ 560SL would be a MUCH better car than the 450SL.

For that matter a R129 would be a better pick IMO

regarding the loose front end, idler bushings, pitman bushings, control arms, tie rods etc probably all need attention but can be DIY. Lower ball joints are better off left to pros.

Timing guides are also a concern. The Mechanical fuel injection systems are prehistoric and expensive to repair (vacuum leaks and fuel distributors etc) .

The old saying "Theres nothing more expensive than a cheap [insert luxury car name here]. 10 years ago I bought a 600 dollar mercedes 300D. It was clapped out and used up and abused. I spent countless evening after work, weekends etc under the car, in junkyards, online looking for parts etc and got the car really nice, drove it for 6 mos and sold it to some hipster on ebay who totaled it 6 months after buying it.

Take advice from us here that have been there, done that, or are still living it.

So you're saying I shouldn't buy a early 80's 300D for a commuter car?

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A 86+ 560SL would be a MUCH better car than the 450SL.

For that matter a R129 would be a better pick IMO
...

Timing guides are also a concern. The Mechanical fuel injection systems are prehistoric and expensive to repair (vacuum leaks and fuel distributors etc) .
...

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Absolutely. The lower ball joints on the control arms for the 560SL can't be replaced without swapping the entire arm FWIW, and last I checked they ran about $500. They don't handle vacuum leaks well, and mechanical fuel injection absolutely sucks.

You have at the back of the car
- two fuel pumps, filter and fuel pressure damper
Up front
- fuel pressure regulator
- Adjustable EHA (Electro-hydraulic actuator), that makes even more fuel pressure adjustments at the fuel distributor
- Fuel distributor that distributes roughly constant pressure to all of the (mechanical) injectors
- A plate above the throttle that air flow pushes down, linked to the fuel distributor with an extremely sensitive rich/lean idle adjustment screw

... Lots of places to gum up and wear, and a lot of the symptoms of one part needing adjustment or starting to go south are the same as how the others act except for the fuel pumps and filter. This is why I grabbed a complete fuel distributor assembly with all the goodies that bolt on to it at a boneyard when I came across one, so I have spares and a better ability to troubleshoot if the need arises.

Now compare this to newer Motronic systems where you have a fuel rail, pressure regulator and simple injectors that fire electronically based off a signal from a flywheel sensor. It's much more reliable and easier to troubleshoot and repair. Of course if you go for a R129 the car is easier to maintain, but now you get a hydraulic convertible top system to play with.

The R129 Hydraulic systems dont scare me at all compared to the K Jetronic nightmare.

If you dont mind constantly tinkering with an old car and have money to throw at it, 80s vintage mercedes are fun. Just dont get mad if you come outside one day and it wont start, or its puked all the oil out of the engine because the drain tube from the air filter housing to pan is bad, or the glow plug relay is bad, etc.

I've owned these Merecedes:

83 300D 600 dollar black hole. My gateway MB....
85 500SE Grey Market Import
86 300SDL Bought site unseen from a MB forum guy. Turned out to be a hacked up POS, drove it back from Nashville to Houston. Still wonder how the hell I made it back without dying or the car breaking down..
87 300SDL Bought from Ebay from a guy in Corpus. Flew down drove back. Car was better than I thought it would be but I still spent around a grand a year on maintenance/repairs. Sold it with 300K on the odometer and was still running good.
91 300CE Bought from a referral on Texags. Supposedly had a bad transmission, turned out to be a quart low on ATF.
90 420SEL (bought from my mom when she got a new car)

Yeah, the steering seemed tight, it was just the wheel that was loose. I looked under the car and the steering linkage looked new (no dirt, not rust, could still see labels).

This car wouldn't be my first choice, so I won't pay cash for it, but i believe it is much much easier to unload a classic luxo-convertible than a 7 year old 30' RV. I'd actually probably flip or trade the car for something more desirable.


And I'm with Corps_Ag in that I want to pickup an early W123 as a second daily. There is a gorgeous example in the Heights, however it's a 240D.

I appreciate y'all's help and knowledge!

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And I'm with Corps_Ag in that I want to pickup an early W123 as a second daily. There is a gorgeous example in the Heights, however it's a 240D.

I appreciate y'all's help and knowledge!

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67hp...LOLno.


Best bet is to find a W124 300D (87 model) with a OM603.

They are actually livable as a daily and fly for a diesel.

a W123 IMO is not really a livable DD in Houston, For many reasons, the A/C system converted to R134a cant keep up with 100+ degree days in houston.

Youll want to remvoe the entire interior and add sound deadening and new door seals and window felts so that you can hear yourself think and not have to scream on the phone at speeds over 40mph.

a W124 or a 81-85 300SD would be more refined, comfy, and livable for a DD than a 123.

the 124 had the nippondenso compressor, same as all OM60X powered US mercedes cars, which put out nice cool air when converted.

the 81-85 300D and 300SD can be converted to a sanden compressor with a parallel flow compressor and put out nice air too.

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This car wouldn't be my first choice, so I won't pay cash for it, but i believe it is much much easier to unload a classic luxo-convertible than a 7 year old 30' RV. I'd actually probably flip or trade the car for something more desirable.

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You're probably right about that. Around here they do seem to sell quick enough. They can be made to be reliable - mine is my DD except for when it rains until the Volvo is back together and then the plan is to take care of cosmetics, waterproofing and think about selling. I think a lot of SLs never were driven that much so these mechanical fuel injection and rubber parts are original and just plain old. I've just about had my fun with mine and really I'd rather move back to the P-car world. Maybe a 996 turbo.

Yay or nay?

1984 300SD

1985 300SD

That '85 looks nice. Would want to see pictures of the interior though.

The 84 is always garaged yet has leaves all under the wiper cowl. Lol

The 85 has probably been hit in the front. Wrong headlights and wrong color and wrong gloss on the bumper.

Also the 85 has mb tex in it, not real leather.

So whats your evaluation? These were the best choices in the DFW Craigslist.

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So whats your evaluation? These were the best choices in the DFW Craigslist.

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Best bet is to buy one off a guy on the Mercedes forums.

Good point.

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So whats your evaluation? These were the best choices in the DFW Craigslist.

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Aren't you supposed to lease German autos if you live in DFW?