We got hit hard by hail and we normally get a light hail storm 1-2x a year, so looking at doing a metal roof instead of shingles again. Does anyone know if there is a significant weight difference between metal and shingles that would be a concern? It's a new, 2020 build, so I would think it has decent enough framing to not worry.

Any insight would be appreciated! And if anyone works in the Abilene-Brownwood-San Angelo area and wants the job, let me know!

Metal roofs are lighter.

Unless, of course, you put the metal over the shingles.

Definitely plan on removing shingles to make sure we don't have any damage to wood base or any water damage.

I don't know much about mobile home construction, so the only issue that I would see is that the roof mfg. will have minimum substrate requirements for their warranty. i.e. MBCI requires 5/8" plywood

Just make sure you pass those, then it should be fine.

Oh, and don't use exposed fasteners.

Thank You!

Metal is definitely lighter than shingles. We put 1x4 lats on mobile homes when I have put metal on them.

Metal, as already stated, is lighter. The unofficial decking requirements are an incredibly gray area. The UL ratings are not. If you want your new metal roof to meet UL580 standards for wind uplift, you will need a minimum of 5/8 plywood. If you are on the coast, don't skimp here.

I can tell you that there are tens of thousands of homes that have standing seam over 7/16 plywood and OSB right now all over the state of Texas, and McElroy will at least verbally state that is the minimum BUT.....

There is a LOT more that goes into install than deck thickness. Deckin type, thickness, pitch, etc. OSB plywood at 7/16" has terrible pull out values, so you need to have an engineer help decide the clip spacing to deal with that. You can also use furring strips and 3/4" foam board between them with your underlayment to give more meat to bite into.

My old house is 'skip decked', and my metal is installed on those boards, but those are also 1" thick. If I were building new, I would want 3/4 CDX, radiant barrier for my decking if I were putting on standing seam.

If you want to get in the weeds and down the rabbit hole:

UL580 Class 90 Testing (McElroy Metals):

https://www.mcelroymetal.com/hubfs/assets/UL-580-Construction-Numbers/507b.pdf

What does all that UL580 stuff mean?:

https://code-authorities.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/ul_RoofingWindResistance.pdf

TDI Document with a different product, again 5/8.
https://www.tdi.texas.gov/wind/prod/rc/rc573.pdf