Large dog is destroying the grass in my backyard, which is highly landscaped with massive beds and a garden. Not much grass as it is but I'm going to put down a weed barrier and then gravel over everything.

For zones that are only watering the grass area today I know I can just not turn them on. Should I go ahead and cap them?
Most of these are pop ups so I assume they make a replacement cap?

For zones that are mixed - some heads I want to keep on and some I want to turn off - should I just cap unwanted?

There are also some heads in the grass that pop up but water the beds that I would want to keep.
I was planning to make a hole in the fabric and keep the gravel away.
Any issue that they will still try to pop up but be covered?

cclearman said:

---

Large dog is destroying the grass in my backyard, which is highly landscaped with massive beds and a garden. Not much grass as it is but I'm going to put down a weed barrier and then gravel over everything.

For zones that are only watering the grass area today I know I can just not turn them on. Should I go ahead and cap them?
Most of these are pop ups so I assume they make a replacement cap?

For zones that are mixed - some heads I want to keep on and some I want to turn off - should I just cap unwanted?

There are also some heads in the grass that pop up but water the beds that I would want to keep.
I was planning to make a hole in the fabric and keep the gravel away.
Any issue that they will still try to pop up but be covered?

---

If me, I would just unscrew and remove the sprinkler heads entirely and screw on a PVC cap for the unwanted ones as you may change your mind in the future and want to reuse. PVC caps are cheap.

The ones in the gravel should still work however you can do like my neighbor did and just cut you some over-sized PVC tubing and put it over the pop up heads, flush with the gravel level, to keep the gravel away from the pop ups. Works well and not really noticeable.

Assuming they're all spray heads and not rotors, they make a nozzle cap. Literally all you have to do is unscrew the nozzle and screw on the cap. Other option is just close the nozzles on the ones you do not want, but some still seep a little and if there's no filters you cannot close them. Neither of these solutions require any digging and they allow you or future owners to see where the heads are if you/them ever want to uncap them for different plant material. Obviously if it is an entire zone, just disconnect the wire and label it. Just don't be too alarmed when you wake up one morning and that shutoff zone is running. Valve can still stick open.

Nozzle cap for sure. I'm not a fan of screwing down the adjustment screw because all it takes is a little too much and you've gone too far and you'll get the world's tiniest geyser from the top of the nozzle.

The problem with removing the heads and capping them is you'll never know where they used to be if you decide to retrofit them in the future.

the nozzle caps I found on amazon appear to be used to remove the entire sprinkler portion that is buried and cap at the supply line.
do they not make a way to simply cap the pop up itself?

Rainbird 1800

cclearman said:

---

the nozzle caps I found on amazon appear to be used to remove the entire sprinkler portion that is buried and cap at the supply line.
do they not make a way to simply cap the pop up itself?

Rainbird 1800

---

Googled and found this...

• XC-1800: Fits Rain Bird 1800 Series sprays

Spray Head Caps

Amazon...

Rain Bird 1800CAPS Spray Head Cap for 1800 Series Sprinklers

those are the ones I found. If you look at the picture it isn't capping the pop-up, you remove the entire "canister" and cap the supply.

cclearman said:

---

those are the ones I found. If you look at the picture it isn't capping the pop-up, you remove the entire "canister" and cap the supply.

---

Guess I'm confused by your comment as it shows you remove the pop-up portion of the canister, and install the cap in it's place. See pic below...from the Amazon order detail pics!

ahhhhh, I'm an idiot. thought it was removing the part buried.

Hunter Pro Spray Shut-Off Nozzles PS Ultra Hunter 916400SP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0821TJH58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EdxDEb5EPXVG8

mAgnoliAg said:

---

Hunter Pro Spray Shut-Off Nozzles PS Ultra Hunter 916400SP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0821TJH58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EdxDEb5EPXVG8

---

I thought $2 for the one I noted was bad, but $6. Dang, think I'd just remove and cap in ground.

Gary79Ag said:

---

mAgnoliAg said:

---

Hunter Pro Spray Shut-Off Nozzles PS Ultra Hunter 916400SP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0821TJH58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EdxDEb5EPXVG8

---

I thought $2 for the one I noted was bad, but $6. Dang, think I'd just remove and cap in ground.

---

Well with these, you and future owners always know where the heads are because you can still turn them on and have them pop up

And I don't think we pay nearly that much for them. Irrigation supply would be cheaper if they even stock them

I don't stock them but I could have them in 2 days or less. I'm sure your contractor cost is way below that Amazon price, but not sure the actual price off the top of my head. But yes, that's the way I'd go if there was even a 5% chance you'd ever want to return heads or sell the house for future home owners.

I ended up using the above Rain Bird caps and some 1/2 NPT for others.

But the area where I am setting up drip lines shares a zone with some sprinkler heads for beds (on the other side of the yard). The drip lines say they require all regular sprinklers in the zone to be capped...I though that was more of a recommendation so I tried. While water comes out of the drip line manifolds with great pressure, it doesn't seem to be enough to produce water once you add the drip heads to the line.

I have a zone nearby the bed that I just capped everything so it should be available. Is there a how to on how to move the control of these bed sprinklers onto another zone? There are tons of boxes in the beds but I don't know what controls what as far as all the wiring.

What did you use to connect the drip onto that zone? If it is a lot of drip and microsprayers you might need to tap in in multiple different spots to get the flow requirement. They make drip conversion kits that are just sprinkler heads with a filter, pressure regulator, and drip fitting to connect to, but you might need multiple.

And yes not ideal to combine heads with drip because of run time requirements.

As for using another completely capped zone solely for this drip, you can either simply run some 1/2" pipe or even funny pipe if it's not too far, or if the valve for that capped zone is closer just use the lateral piping going out of it to do the same thing.

so today I hooked up one of these 6 port drip mainfolds to a single connection on a zone that only has 4 connections. The other 3 connections are capped. So the entire zone is going through this single connection with the drip manifold.

and it behaves the exact same way.
good pressure out of the 1 output I have open. Good pressure through the drip hose. But as soon as I put on the drip nozzle connector there is no flow.

Any ideas?

6 port manifold: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MZ1ESW/

to be clear, on the first zone where I need the drip lines ASAP I have
1. some sprayers and pop-ups capped
2. some pop ups converted using https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-CNV182EMT-Emitters-Convert/dp/B00QV45R84/
3. some sprayer heads converted just using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MZ1ESW/
4. some sprayer heads still functioning as-is
sprayer head is a riser with 1/2" connection

on the 2nd zone which I don't need now, but planned to use in the future, I've capped three of the 1/2" flex line connectors (that previously were buried with a pop-up) and I have one of
3. some sprayer heads converted just using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MZ1ESW/

none of the drip lines will drip with the drip nozzle attached. All product good water pressure with the nozzle removed.

Do you have drip and spray heads in the same zone?

the first zone, yes. which I thought might be the issue.

so I checked it on another zone with only 4 heads. 3 are capped. 1 with the 6-manifold drip. Still no flow through the drip nozzle.

Putting sprays and drip on the same valve is a great way to stop the drip and it's technically against the law to mix different components on a single zone. You need to try to separate it into 2 zones: sprays and drip. The drip needs a drip kit so that you filter the water going into the drip. It could also be that without a filter, all of your emitters are plugged up. The little angled thing is the filter:

Edit: I just realized that your microdrip thing is new. It's probably not plugged up yet and it may have it's own filter. I think the flow is mostly diverted to the spray heads especially if they are first in the circuit. I bet you don't have enough residual pressure left over by the time the water gets to the microdrip.

Quote:

---

Edit: I just realized that your microdrip thing is new. It's probably not plugged up yet and it may have it's own filter. I think the flow is mostly diverted to the spray heads especially if they are first in the circuit. I bet you don't have enough residual pressure left over by the time the water gets to the microdrip.

---

That's kind of what I was thinking of earlier today. Might be a good idea to see if he can attach the device to a garden hose to see if the residual left over pressure is the issue.

Seems like it must be a pressure issue...guess I'll have to get an expert involved.

Actually, I just tried a different style of dripper (little shower instead of a drip) and it worked fine.