I was inspired by the other thread so post about our remodel. We are demolished a 1 car garage and are adding a bedroom, bathroom, office and pool to our 1939 Central Austin Craftsman. About halfway through we decided to do the kitchen. The house was originally 810 (2/1) square feet and will be about 1400 (3/2)
square feet when done.

Big ass holes for the foundation (pier and biem)

Framing

New sunroom/office and now demolished kitchen

You're dropping an AC vent into that sunroom, right?

Oh yeah definitely having AC in that room. Putting in a brand new system with new duct work. It will be a new house save for a few windows, the ceilings and maybe flooring.

We would have liked to have sold it and bought something in our hood that was ready to go but this was actually the cheaper option. 800 sq feet was plenty as 2 but as 3 it was tight

nice!

on the lighting plan/RCP did you model the soffit and rafter tails in BIM?

Wait, did we already talk? I wanted to do something similar.

Are you over in Hyde park?

I couldn't get any reasonable bids. (< $400ft )

Evan, I am in Hyde Park, we may have actually talked. And yes, we had 10 or so builders bid our project and most were over $400 per square because the size of our project is smaller. If we were adding more the price per would go down. We ended up less than that but not by much. It will still be 100k cheaper for us than buying in the hood.

We actually were pretty far down the road with one builders and their final estimate was over 100k over their estimates, so moved to another builder.

I am not sure what BIM is, we had a architect draw those plans.

It's going to look awesome! Thanks for the post! Yeah. I'd really like to bite the bullet And do something similar but am holding off. My feeling is that we won't be able to create a cohesive flow while still maintain the central location of our kitchen, which we already remodeled 18 months ago.

My guess is we'll kick the can down the road for a while longer, but I can definitely say I'm jealous!

A few more pictures

New Paint Scheme White, Whiter White and Navy



The kitchen during demo


Master bedroom ceiling

Also an update on the kitchen appliance which ended up being quite a bit different after we made some changes

I was confused by pic and floor plan labeled kitchen. When you walk in, is it your living room you enter and kitchen is to left beyond it?

That's right you walk into the living, bedroom on the left, kitchen and sunroom straight ahead, new hallway off kitchen to left with 2 beds and a bath

A few new pictures. Sheetrock, doors, tile and trim going in





Pocket pantry door



Master shower







Trying to pick out lights now, anyone have any good recommendations for under cabinet lighting

I'd go with something like a little led light strip.

I've seen new cabinet installs still use big light boxes which is criminal. Better ones route a tiny channel and put a strip in it, but with the bottom lip and these thing strips channels might not even be necessary.


For ceiling lights pucks are the way to! Flat wafers 1/2 thick that are spring loaded right into the ceiling. The electrical boxes have a separate pig tail connection that you can just toss in the space.

What series Pella window did you go with?


Wobane Under Cabinet Lighting Kit,Flexible LED Strip Lights Bar,Under Counter Lights for Kitchen,Cupboard,Desk,Monitor Back,Shelf,6.6 Feet Tape Light Set,UL Listed,120 LEDs,1100lm,2700K WarmWhite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF5PB4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dPvQEb9X5Q7W2

Nice wood ceilings. What kind of wood is it? Is there any concern with not being able to see leaks as you could with drywall?

The wood ceilings are the original "ship lap" that has been there since the house was built. In the bedroom we put newer wood on the ceilings. I am not concerned about being able to see leak enough to go back to drywall. I am in the attic with some regularity because of limited storage but may consider some moisture detectors.

Thanks for the light recs!

For ceiling lights and closets, I really like these by kichler. They mount to a standard electrical box.

https://www.build.com/kichler-43878led27/s1422109?uid=3344729

For undercabinet, I looked at Kichler fixtures and led strips, but I actually went with a different product that was crazy easy to install, and smaller than other fixtures. They are about .5 inch by 1.2 inches. These have two levels, so if you want fully dimmable, you need a different one. They can be hardwired and are linkable.

https://byjasco.com/honeywell-12in-linkable-plug-led-under-cabinet-fixture

Here are the kitchen plans hopefully be in by the middle of the month

The pella windows are the fiberglass lifestyle series, debated wood for a while but in the end the cost and look brought us to fiberglass

You made a good choice. They look great.

I am also having a hell of a time finding some 8' navy hexagon floor tile for the bathrooms. If anyone has any leads on that, it would be great, I am about to have some made, which is going to cost me more than I want.

https://studiocementtile.com/product/cement-tiles-in-stock-hex-108-navy-8x9/

Cle and Cement Tile Shop both typically have some blue hex from my past searches. Though it is encaustic, so you have to deal with the thickness.

I've got a bunch of the black hex from Cle waiting around to be used from an old project, it's quality stuff.

Keeper of The Spirits said:

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Framing

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Since you're not going with pier & beam for the addition, what are you planning to use to block off your crawl space?

That is pier and beam on the addition, it will be blocked of with a stucco like material I forget what it's called

Gotcha, when I said beam I was referring to a continuous concrete beam. What is pictured to me is a footing with the start of a load bearing wall.

That's what I get for using commercial construction terms interchangeably with residential

Also the wood ceilings are pine, I missed that question.

As far as the Pella windows, those are actually the wood windows (aluminum clad exterior). Lifestyle series is correct but there is no fiberglass on that series (there are other wood window series in the Pella portfolio though). The fiberglass series is called Impervia, and it does not have a wood interior.

Lifestyle was the right choice for your house. It is a great bang for your buck too in the Pella portfolio. They looks great.

Know how those compare to Andersen Woodright 400 series? Comparable? Just curious when we eventually decide to start replacing our single pane.

Lifestyle is a great wood window - just limited to the most popular options to drive cost down as much as possible. It also carries a limited lifetime warranty on the product (including wood rot) for as long as you own the home.

Andersen 400 is also a great window. Lots of options and probably the most popular Andersen wood window (and maybe most popular overall)

There is a difference in how Andersen and Pella go to market so sometimes it is hard to tell you exactly which one would be "cheaper." Where are you located?