evan_aggie said:

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My wife and I bought a 1949 home in 2018 with a dozen things out of code. No requirement by the state or anyone else to bring it up to code when we bought it.

We discussed redoing our bedroom windows which are single-pane, and half of them don't work or are painted shut. I was looking at some nice Anderson Woodright 400s and was told by a contractor to be careful: if the city sees you replacing windows...say we decide double/single hung as opposed to casement, that they can potentially say, "NOPE", you are 2" too narrow for fire fighters oxgyen tanks and this isn't fire code compliant. So they'll fine you, stop you, etc.

Keep in mind I'm literally upgrading the windows from their current state: energy inefficiency, inoperable and can't work worth a damn, but they can draw the line for me and dictate what I can or can't do.

F that. You want a safe home and a safe structure, and obviously the beam should be properly installed and signed off, but the government getting involved in single-family homes pisses me off.

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Just FYI, they do this in most major cities. They will typically leave you alone if it's masonry construction and only require that your smoke detectors are up to current code. If you have siding, they will make you comply with current window egress requirements. And it's not for fire fighters, it so an occupant can get out in the case of a fire. They are mainly concerned with sill heights and opening sizes.

When I replaced windows in my '74 build, I had to install hard-wired communicating smoke detectors in lieu of sawing stone to change window sizes.

Triple 2x12 was what we used in an old "barn shaped" building to carry the load of the roof about that same distance. Did this so we could have the open space at the sloped sides of the 2nd floor open. We did another one in between 1st and second floor down the middle to keep the workshop open. My concern is that your I-joists run perpendicular and assume now tie-in to this beam? That small area that you took out had a ton of studs in there, looking like 6" oc.

I would have had that part engineered. But to each its own. How many places did they bolt through the tripled up beam? Its been 30+ years, but I recall a crap ton of bolts keeping all 3 together.

The remodel looks great. The beam would keep me up at night.

evan_aggie said:

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My wife and I bought a 1949 home in 2018 with a dozen things out of code. No requirement by the state or anyone else to bring it up to code when we bought it.

We discussed redoing our bedroom windows which are single-pane, and half of them don't work or are painted shut. I was looking at some nice Anderson Woodright 400s and was told by a contractor to be careful: if the city sees you replacing windows...say we decide double/single hung as opposed to casement, that they can potentially say, "NOPE", you are 2" too narrow for fire fighters oxgyen tanks and this isn't fire code compliant. So they'll fine you, stop you, etc.

Keep in mind I'm literally upgrading the windows from their current state: energy inefficiency, inoperable and can't work worth a damn, but they can draw the line for me and dictate what I can or can't do.

F that. You want a safe home and a safe structure, and obviously the beam should be properly installed and signed off, but the government getting involved in single-family homes pisses me off.

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I may have gotten rid of my insane amount of demo debris the Shawshank way... Little bit in the trash this week, some more the next, drive the truck out to the county landfill to get rid of some bad floor joists, ...

It also may have worked extremely well!

About 95% done. Pendants in, under cab lights in. Electrical done. Need one more piece of granite for the side bar, finish plumbing under the sink, backsplash, pot filler, sheetrock/paint touch ups.

Looks good!

What lights are you using under the cabinets.

West Texas Lawyer said:

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What lights are you using under the cabinets.

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They're just some small tube fixtures that were included with the cabinets. I wanted to do the Phillips Hue strips but I really was at a point where I didn't feel like messing with it. I may put Hue on top later on since we have a switched outlet above.

Closeup of the sink fixtures. The island granite had three holes so went with faucet, soap and air switch for the disposal.

Faucet is Moen Weymouth in oil rubbed bronze (S73104ORB).
Soap is Moen Traditional Soap Dispenser (S3945ORB).
Air switch is BESTILL Sink Top Garbage Disposal Air Switch Kit, Oil Rubbed Bronze Full Brass Long Button (Square)

Got the Moen pot filler as well but it goes in after backsplash. I have a separate thread about that guy. Moen is sending me a new one 2nd day air because the one I bought had some foreign debris inside that we couldn't identify. That company has incredible customer service!

I am so pissed off at myself right now. I just noticed that I somehow ordered the Bosch oven/microwave combo instead of the oven/speed oven combo and there's not a damned thing I can do about it. **** me I feel so stupid. This realization has completely ruined any and all excitement I had over this project. Mothertrucker.

does the disposal switch also function as an air gap for the dishwasher?

Ducks4brkfast said:

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does the disposal switch also function as an air gap for the dishwasher?

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No. The dishwasher drain is looped up to the bottom of the counter and down to the disposal directly.

Bregxit said:

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Ducks4brkfast said:

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does the disposal switch also function as an air gap for the dishwasher?

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No. The dishwasher drain is looped up to the bottom of the counter and down to the disposal directly.

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You don't have an air gap? Is that not required?

Ducks4brkfast said:

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Bregxit said:

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Ducks4brkfast said:

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does the disposal switch also function as an air gap for the dishwasher?

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No. The dishwasher drain is looped up to the bottom of the counter and down to the disposal directly.

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You don't have an air gap? Is that not required?

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Not required at all. It's right in the Bosch install manual. You can use an airgap or tie the drain hose up high and back down to the disposal.

No, I get you can run a high loop, I was just under the impression pretty much every plumbing code in Texas required one.

Ducks4brkfast said:

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No, I get you can run a high loop, I was just under the impression pretty much every plumbing code in Texas required one.

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No idea since I installed it. I haven't had an air gap on my dishwashers for the last 15 years.

he's good.




link

Bregxit said:

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Ducks4brkfast said:

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No, I get you can run a high loop, I was just under the impression pretty much every plumbing code in Texas required one.

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No idea since I installed it. I haven't had an air gap on my dishwashers for the last 15 years.

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was it installed in a stand-alone island?

Ducks4brkfast said:

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Bregxit said:

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Ducks4brkfast said:

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No, I get you can run a high loop, I was just under the impression pretty much every plumbing code in Texas required one.

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No idea since I installed it. I haven't had an air gap on my dishwashers for the last 15 years.

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was it installed in a stand-alone island?

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It is now. Go ahead and say what you want to say.

I was intrigued by the disposal button, thinking it served as both an air gap and button.

Ducks4brkfast said:

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I was intrigued by the disposal button, thinking it served as both an air gap and button.

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No just a switch that is ironically, an air switch. So my disposal control has an air gap lol.

So we are pretty much done! The guys are coming back tomorrow to finish the trim pieces and knock out a few touch ups. I feel better about the oven since we agreed that after we recover a bit we'll swap out the upper microwave unit for the speed oven and Craigslist the microwave or donate it.

Like that stove.

~egon

Kitchen looks great! Bet yall are glad to be done!

I did have one question....did you all look into building in the fridge? We have similar cabinetry and we re considering having them build around a free-standing fridge but wondering if there is anything I should consider before we make that decision. I know a lot of people do it (vs building in a true built-in fridge) but that doesnt always make it right.

We have had 2 contractors come out and we have 1 or 2 more to go. No "initial" bid numbers just yet. Hope to start seeing those later this week. With the current economy i am semi hoping for this to be a little lower than initially planned. We have had concepts ranging from $20K to $45K. Shooting for the lower end of that range with just paint, countertops (includes kitchen, small bar, and breakfast area) and new appliances. Being in O&G industry I would say I am currently more inclinded to keep my cash than i was a few months back....

You can make the cabinets over the frig deeper and bring down a side on the frig. You do have to leave some gaps for air. You can also use a builtin if you don't want to have the gaps.

That was the plan. To bring out the cabinets, etc.

I would love a true built-in fridge but that may be the next kitchen remodel granted at that point the kids will be nearing college...

planoaggie123 said:

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Kitchen looks great! Bet yall are glad to be done!

I did have one question....did you all look into building in the fridge? We have similar cabinetry and we re considering having them build around a free-standing fridge but wondering if there is anything I should consider before we make that decision. I know a lot of people do it (vs building in a true built-in fridge) but that doesnt always make it right.

We have had 2 contractors come out and we have 1 or 2 more to go. No "initial" bid numbers just yet. Hope to start seeing those later this week. With the current economy i am semi hoping for this to be a little lower than initially planned. We have had concepts ranging from $20K to $45K. Shooting for the lower end of that range with just paint, countertops (includes kitchen, small bar, and breakfast area) and new appliances. Being in O&G industry I would say I am currently more inclinded to keep my cash than i was a few months back....

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Sorry for not responding earlier...I had bannititis.

We did not look into closing in the fridge. No particular reason but my wife is happy because she can stick notes on the side with magnets. I am happy because I can get behind it easier to clean or fix things.

This project was $30750 plus appliances which were about $6000 (did not buy a new fridge or dishwasher).

No problem!

I am guessing you had a decent couple dollars allocated to your support work which looks like it was worth it. We go back and forth on appliances. We have a 'lower' option of KitchenAid and then slightly higher option which would be a Bosch/JennAir combo.

Honestly starting to wonder if this year is the year for us or not at this point. Might be silly to spend that much cash right now. The market is stupid and not 100% sure to trust even my own company which is Fortune 100.

planoaggie123 said:

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No problem!

I am guessing you had a decent couple dollars allocated to your support work which looks like it was worth it. We go back and forth on appliances. We have a 'lower' option of KitchenAid and then slightly higher option which would be a Bosch/JennAir combo.

Honestly starting to wonder if this year is the year for us or not at this point. Might be silly to spend that much cash right now. The market is stupid and not 100% sure to trust even my own company which is Fortune 100.

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I am not sure what you mean about dollars and support work...

Appliances were pretty tough to pick out since I had to sift through what would fit in the openings as they were. I was looking at several double ovens and could not figure out which one was installed at the showroom to start my search from. The only thing I could find that would fit as a full double oven was a low end GE. The Kitchen Aid's display would have been 1/2" too high up against the above cabinet doors. The Bosch fit perfectly, but of course I ordered the wrong damned one (microwave top vs speed oven) and once you take delivery, there are no take-backs unless it is damaged. I'll fix that in the future (assuming the market ever comes around).

I am with you about the market. It has me very nervous now. We keep a major purchase savings fund and pulled those assets out for this project pretty much at the market peak so we got lucky there. But I work for an oil major and have some pucker factor going right now and may live to regret parting with all that cash. We do have a large rainy day fund so that helps me sleep a bit better at night.

Not sure what i was really trying to get at haha.

I think i was trying to correlate what you spent and ultimately got vs what I am planning to spend / get knowing you had a better price on the cabinetry / counters than i could ever imagine most likely. We keep getting pretty insane guesses on our support work but we have been told ours is pretty "unique"

For applicances, we are fairly limited too due to having downdraft and no real way to work around it. KitchenAid and JennAir are the main ones in play for the cooktop. Some brands have a pop-up downdraft system but we dont have the countertop space.

We went through a remodel a couple of years ago.

What price are you getting on cabinets?

We got our cabinets through a kitchen remodeling company. They were quite expensive for what they were. We knew this going in and compared to Lowes Kraftmaid, which I actually liked just a little more.

I could easily see Lowes Kraftmaid, without install, being close to $12,000-$14,000 for all of the OPS cabinets. I priced out a 9x13 kitchen that was probably half that size and the number was consistently $6500-$7000 w/o install. That's how I'm arriving at the number.

The other misc costs regarding knocking out walls, installing beams, moving plumbing, repainting...those are harder to figure out ahead of time. I'd first nail down your biggest expenses: cabinets, countertops, sink, fixtures, flooring, and backsplash tiling.

We used old school 3x6 (which we liked) and ended up doing it around our entire kitchen, including walls that didn't even have counter top/cabinets.

We have only gotten ballpark numbers on new cabinets. At this point, we are about 98% set on keeping what we have currently and working with current setup. We will just paint and only use appliances that work with current setup. The biggest part of our renovation will likely be the counter as we have a 2-level currently but want to just make it a solid one-level to allow for larger platters etc. add larger sink and use quartzite countertop.