Master Bath layout help

5,561 Views | 65 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by beachfront71
TMoney2007
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I really do like how they look, but I can't get my head around creating tight spaces that will need cleaning. Not many people have the room to put the tub way off the wall, where freestanding tubs make the most sense.

Faucets for freestanding tubs are expensive and they would be a pain in the ass to install on a concrete slab.
aezmvp
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My humble suggestion. Closing in the WC and putting additional walk/reach in storage (can't ever have enough). Expand the closets with a bit of shelving lay outs with the shower in between. The tub across from the shower and the vanities with a seat between them. Vanity space is somewhat limited IMO. but it seems like you're looking for less storage there.
beachfront71
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ChoppinDs40
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beachfront71 said:

do you want walk in closets or do you care?
this option best keeps the current lav layout..



Best design by far. Can put a huge window above the tub and really accent it. Put some wall light fixtures to the side of the tub and when you open the doors it will really pop.

Also, you'll be able to tie into the existing piping pretty easily with that design.

I've seen GE's wardrobe. He doesn't need a closet any bigger than that.

Edit: Why'd you take it down?
beachfront71
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was having trouble uploading pics today and gave up as I had to leave..
Had a few other options with walk in closet but this layed out the best and saves you some plumbing work

GE
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beachfront71 said:

was having trouble uploading pics today and gave up as I had to leave..
Had a few other options with walk in closet but this layed out the best and saves you some plumbing work


Thanks, really like that one and we had discussed doing something like that. Only concern is whether the WC will feel too tight since most of the remodel websites say go 36" wide, but I guess 28" across is only giving up a couple inches compared to current layout.

Wife and I are currently trying to locate contractors. She wants to just hire a company that takes care of everything, but I'm thinking about trying to do a little bit myself to save money if possible. I want to keep it under $30,000 but she of course doesn't really mind either way. .
beachfront71
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There might be a code for minimums in your area but that was the best place to steal some room for the rest of the layout along the back wall.

You can prob steal another 3" from shower if needed

TMoney2007
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beachfront71 said:

There might be a code for minimums in your area but that was the best place to steal some room for the rest of the layout along the back wall.

You can prob steal another 3" from shower if needed


Yeah, a 33" shower is not going to feel too narrow with glass partitions.

As far as hiring a contractor to do the whole job or not, I've gotten to the point where I hire the trades more or less individually and manage the project myself. That way you can do the chunks of it that you want to and you'll save the markup that a contractor is going to throw on top of everything.

Knowing how to sequence the work, sourcing materials and making sure that the work is done right are the major requirements if you want to do that. I'm willing to answer questions to help you and I'm sure there will be others too if you go that route.

For materials, I usually make any of the major purchases like fixtures, cabinets, doors and order the majority of the raw materials. Then if there are small or unforeseen things needed, the tradesman can let me know and I'll get it to them the next day (I work, so I don't generally make same day material runs for them), or they can buy it themselves and send me a picture of the receipt and I'll square up with them at the end of the week (or if the balance gets to be more than $100 or so).
GE
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TMoney2007 said:

beachfront71 said:

There might be a code for minimums in your area but that was the best place to steal some room for the rest of the layout along the back wall.

You can prob steal another 3" from shower if needed


Yeah, a 33" shower is not going to feel too narrow with glass partitions.

As far as hiring a contractor to do the whole job or not, I've gotten to the point where I hire the trades more or less individually and manage the project myself. That way you can do the chunks of it that you want to and you'll save the markup that a contractor is going to throw on top of everything.

Knowing how to sequence the work, sourcing materials and making sure that the work is done right are the major requirements if you want to do that. I'm willing to answer questions to help you and I'm sure there will be others too if you go that route.

For materials, I usually make any of the major purchases like fixtures, cabinets, doors and order the majority of the raw materials. Then if there are small or unforeseen things needed, the tradesman can let me know and I'll get it to them the next day (I work, so I don't generally make same day material runs for them), or they can buy it themselves and send me a picture of the receipt and I'll square up with them at the end of the week (or if the balance gets to be more than $100 or so).
Thanks, that's helpful. I've done some of that but not with a project of this scope. The ordering of activities I'm considering is below. Any recommendations on this order or any overlooked steps or potential obstacles would be much appreciated.

1 - Demo/remove carpet, tile, built-in shelving, vanity, interior wall drywall. Plan on doing this step myself.
2. Demo interior walls that don't have plumbing or electrical in them. I'll see how it's looking after removing drywall before deciding whether to do myself or hire it out. Don't think the interior walls are supporting anything above but want to be extra careful and understand what could go wrong before doing that myself.
3. Have electrician out to remove electrical from interior walls currently have one lightswitch in each closet, one in WC, and one outlet at either end of vanity. The main light switch by the entrance can likely stay in the same spot or very close.
Not sure what the electrician would do here just take the switch it off the wall up into the attic to leave until ready to drop into the new space? I can do myself if it's not much more involved than that.
4. Turn off plumbing, demo tub and toilet.
5. Demo remaining interior walls.
6. Hire plumber to come run new water and sewage lines to the extent necessary.
7. Hire someone to come frame new walls.
8. Run electricity and plumbing that will be going to fixtures through new walls as applicable.
9. Finish new walls with dry wall, switches, outlets, etc
10. Install new flooring. I'll buy the tile and other materials hire a company to install.
11. Install new tub, toilet, shower glass, exhaust fans, all lighting, and mirrors. Will plan on buying all of this with the possible exception of shower glass myself and hiring a company to install it.
12. Paint all walls that will be painted do myself.
13. Install vanities currently undecided as to whether to have them built in or buy off the shelf somewhere and install myself.
14. Tile the shower walls.
15. Finish out the closet with shelving and hanging rods, have moldings installed as necessary, and install doors.
slacker00
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need shower pan and/or waterproofing on your list.
TMoney2007
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If there is any attic access, you can figure out if any of the walls are load bearing. Also, you can get a good idea if you look at the roofline. The wall that are parallel to the peak/ridge of the roof in that area are more likely to be load bearing. I would guess that the joists run across the narrow dimension of the bathroom. I'd be surprised if any of the interior walls were actually critical and you may just have to temporarily support the joisrs until your new walls are build because that last layout has shorter unsupported spans than the current layout in most places.

Another consideration is where the plumbing drain vents are going to go. I think they have to tie in within a few feet of the drain and the roof vent needs to be at least a foot away from the edge of the roof. This is more of a problem if you have a vaulted ceiling. Since you're moving the drains around there is going to be a little bit of work on the roof to patch where the old vents were and install the new flashing.

You can take the tub and the toilet out when you do the first round of demo. Just use something to plug the drains (I usually shove a couple wadded up grocery bags) to keep any sewer gas from coming out. You can demo around the existing plumbing pretty easily. You're going to have to deal with the waste at some point and I'd prefer to get rid of the tub and toilet at the same time. Someone might take the tub and toilet off the curb if they're in good shape.

I wouldn't worry about calling an electrician out in the middle of demoing stuff. You can turn off the power and demo around the wiring. You can take it the wiring out of the box and pull it back if it is in the way. Once you have the new walls framed, the electrician can come in and demo what he needs to and rough everything in at the same time, which saves him a trip.

Depending on how the layout changes, I would demo the ceiling unless you can leave the whole ceiling for a room/closet. The result won't be as good if you try to patch a 4" wide strip where a wall used to be and it's not going to save you much money. The seams are what take the most labor, so hanging/finishing a smaller number of bigger pieces of drywall is going to be easier than patching in a bunch of smaller pieces, plus the plumber and the electrician get easier access. Same for the walls. Matching the texture is hard to do perfectly too.

For a bathroom that size, I would probably just go ahead and use moisture resistant sheetrock everywhere. You might save $50 only using it where it is totally necessary, but you have to worry about them putting the right board in the right place and getting the right amount of each kind.

You can look at the foam board shower waterproofing systems, but they're kind of expensive. If someone comes in to do the drywall, you can get them to hang cement board (it's really not that hard to work with.) Then you can do the waterproofing (home depot carries redgard, but the liquid waterproofing membranes are the same.)

If you put a niche in the shower and/or the tub, make sure it's tall and wide enough for all the bottles your wife can dream of...

Spring for name brand shower and tub fixtures. You're always going to be able to find a cartridge for a delta or moen shower valve, but that might not be the case for some random internet special. If you get delta, spring for the rough in valves with work stops. The allow you to cut off the water supply to one fixture, so you can change a cartridge without shutting off the water supply to the whole house...

For the tub and shower, a hand shower is really nice to have...

Umm... Cast iron is the best material for a soaker tub because it holds heat better than acrylic...

Check out build.com They sell pretty much everything you need. Set up your account and put everything you need into a project or a cart and then use their "ask for a quote" feature. They've knocked hundreds of dollars off an order when I was ordering for a whole bathroom...

If you're doing a framed mirror that you can hang, it's easy to do yourself. If you want a bigger one (your wife will probably be the one with a preference) getting a piece cut and having someone install it for you is surprisingly cheap.

For the vanities, you can buy them off the shelf if you make the openings a standard size or check out barkercabinets.com they do semi-custom cabinets that they'll make to your dimensions and ship to you flat packed to assemble. I don't know what you are planning for vanity tops, but if you get a slab of granite or quartzite for that you can use it for a topper on a pony wall and maybe a shower curb. I would consider putting a pony wall between the tub and the shower and another one between the shower and the adjacent vanity so you. I wouldn't really want to pay for glass to look at the side of a vanity that I can't clean or the side of freestanding tub.
GE
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Thank you. That is all super helpful
ChoppinDs40
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GE said:

Thank you. That is all super helpful
my suggestion - buy a new house.
GE
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AggieFanatic09 said:

GE said:

Thank you. That is all super helpful
my suggestion - buy a new house.
Not moving again for a while. Neighborhood and location are great. Come check it out
ChoppinDs40
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Sub it out and be done in 3 weeks!
GrimesCoAg95
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I know you want a tub. Is this for everyday use or occasional? Would a 48" tub work? Here is an example. This one also can have the facet on the back wall or behind the tub which reduces width a bit more.
https://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathtubs/48-abbey-hammered-copper-double-slipper-soaking-tub-on-claw-feet.html

Leave a few inches on each side and you are at 54" for the tub area, which gives you more room for the w.c. and shower.

I would not want the W.C. or shower less than 30. Even at 30 inches, both are a little narrow, especially as everyone ages.

Here is a site that gives recommended and minimum interior dimensions.
https://www.bhg.com/bathroom/remodeling/planning/bathroom-layout-guidelines-and-requirements/

This layout works well if you want a window on the end wall. You still have a bit of hall as you walk in, but unless you put the closet at the far end that is just a reality.

I do think the tub opposite the door will make for great visual appeal when you enter.

TMoney2007
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You should read the thread... his wife uses the tub.
ChoppinDs40
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GrimesCoAg95 said:

I know you want a tub. Is this for everyday use or occasional? Would a 48" tub work? Here is an example. This one also can have the facet on the back wall or behind the tub which reduces width a bit more.
https://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathtubs/48-abbey-hammered-copper-double-slipper-soaking-tub-on-claw-feet.html

Leave a few inches on each side and you are at 54" for the tub area, which gives you more room for the w.c. and shower.

I would not want the W.C. or shower less than 30. Even at 30 inches, both are a little narrow, especially as everyone ages.

Here is a site that gives recommended and minimum interior dimensions.
https://www.bhg.com/bathroom/remodeling/planning/bathroom-layout-guidelines-and-requirements/

This layout works well if you want a window on the end wall. You still have a bit of hall as you walk in, but unless you put the closet at the far end that is just a reality.

I do think the tub opposite the door will make for great visual appeal when you enter.


looks like a tub you see in Deadwood where there's a piece of wood as a table over it with cheap whiskey, a cigar and a few *****'s pubes attached.
TMoney2007
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That's not a tub, its a bucket.

I'm gonna guess that's going to be a no from his wife.
GE
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Using Beachfront's idea as a starting point came up with a couple of other options where I'm not sacrificing width on the shower, tub, or ****ter.



GE
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One more. Going to measure our current closets and hanging space to see how much hanging length we actually use. Current closets are wildly inefficient with basically one row of rods on each long wall.



Also considering left/right flipping this to get a window in the WC.
GE
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...
GrimesCoAg95
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Maybe she is really short?
ChoppinDs40
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GE said:

One more. Going to measure our current closets and hanging space to see how much hanging length we actually use. Current closets are wildly inefficient with basically one row of rods on each long wall.



Also considering left/right flipping this to get a window in the WC.

our closet is maybe 8' x 5' in total and we have plenty of room for our stuff.

May I suggest looking at a designer or just making a pinterest "closet organization" board.

We have 2 rods (low rod and high rod) where we hang shirts and pants and then a single rod going one way for jackets, dresses, etc. you can also work some drawers and make sure there are shelves everywhere.
GE
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AggieFanatic09 said:

GE said:

One more. Going to measure our current closets and hanging space to see how much hanging length we actually use. Current closets are wildly inefficient with basically one row of rods on each long wall.



Also considering left/right flipping this to get a window in the WC.

our closet is maybe 8' x 5' in total and we have plenty of room for our stuff.

May I suggest looking at a designer or just making a pinterest "closet organization" board.

We have 2 rods (low rod and high rod) where we hang shirts and pants and then a single rod going one way for jackets, dresses, etc. you can also work some drawers and make sure there are shelves everywhere.
Yeah I just checked and right now we're only using 220 inches of total rod space with maybe 60 of that needing to be tall enough for dresses
TMoney2007
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I don't like corner tubs, but it might be because I feel like they take up so much space visually and they always seem to get covered in cheap materials so they say 90s McMansion.

Anything can be finished well though.
GE
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TMoney2007 said:

I don't like corner tubs, but it might be because I feel like they take up so much space visually and they always seem to get covered in cheap materials so they say 90s McMansion.

Anything can be finished well though.
Now you have me feeling like if we do go that route I have to get a shiny gold colored faucet for it.
GE
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I have electrician, plumber, and flooring person. Anybody have a recommendation for companies or individuals to hire to build the walls and hang the drywall/sheetrock? Located in spring/woodlands area.
TMoney2007
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GE said:

I have electrician, plumber, and flooring person. Anybody have a recommendation for companies or individuals to hire to build the walls and hang the drywall/sheetrock? Located in spring/woodlands area.
You can try calling a drywall supply company and asking them for a recommendation.
62strat
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chipotle said:

We've lived in our house 8 years. Used the tub 4 times
So you used it then. If it was 0 times, you'd have a case.
62strat
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OP, our bath is 21' x 13', so pretty close to yours. We have a side entry door though, so not sure if it would work. Maybe put water closet door on side, then shower where our door is.

We love our layout, especially the tub not being right in the middle of a wall like we see so often. Our vanities are 6'-6" L. We have 5 windows in all.



beachfront71
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one more for you with a gun safe area behind the clothes..I played around with your last 3 options and didn't really like the final product..you dont want a corner tub and a vanity between the tub and shower will look weird,, gun safe area can also be a open linen cabinet outside of the closet..


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