Light switch with 4 wires - help

2,848 Views | 15 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by BlackGoldAg2011
BCSWguru
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Trying to replace a light switch with a dimmer switch. The light is part of the fan unit and the fan has a separate switch. I removed the switch cover and found 4 wires on the light switch. One is ground, one is red, and two are black. One of the black wires and the red wire were pushed into the back of the old switch and the other black wire was wrapped around the bottom post and then the same wire continues into the back of the fan switch next to it.

I haven't changed a switch in several years (I.e. decades) and don't recall a setup like this. Is this common?

WIRING


NEW SWITCH


OLD SWITCH
toolshed
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AG
Wire wrapped around the screw and going to the second switch is likely the hot coming into the box. The other black pushed into the switch is likely feening hot to another plug or switch elsewhere. Red wire is the switch leg to the light.

You can test with the power on, use needle nose and touch the red wire to the looped wire and see if the light comes on.

Read the instructions for the dimmer, but it's made to work on a three way setup or single switch. Use the screws noted for the single switch location. Tighten the third screw that you aren't using so it doesn't contact a stray ground as easily.
BCSWguru
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The looped wire and the straight black wire look to go into the same port. Could I just wrap both of those around the same port on the new switch?
slacker00
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AG
Yes, they need to go into the same position or if it is giving you issues because of the loop in the Hot wire, just move the black over with the other end attached to the fan switch.
BCSWguru
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Just making sure those two black wires together isn't a problem. I looped both around the post and installed. The switch seems to work correctly. I do get occasional flickering of the I'm a when I turn the fan on. It's inconsistent so I'm hoping it's just the type of bulbs I have.
Gary79Ag
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AG
Wrapping 2 wires onto one lug is not allowed...that's called "double lugging" and a no no by code. You need to connect the 2 black wires and a pig tail wire together via a wire nut and then connect the other end of the pig tail wire to the lug. This is the correct way to do this!
BCSWguru
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i dont know what any of that means.
dudeabides
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AG
Gary79Ag said:

Wrapping 2 wires onto one lug is not allowed...that's called "double lugging" and a no no by code. You need to connect the 2 black wires and a pig tail wire together via a wire nut and then connect the other end of the pig tail wire to the lug. This is the correct way to do this!
BCSWguru
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now that seems doable. thank you.
txyaloo
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AG
Gary79Ag said:

Wrapping 2 wires onto one lug is not allowed...that's called "double lugging" and a no no by code. You need to connect the 2 black wires and a pig tail wire together via a wire nut and then connect the other end of the pig tail wire to the lug. This is the correct way to do this!
Why can't he backstab one and wrap the other around the lug? I see it done all the time
Gary79Ag
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AG
txyaloo said:

Gary79Ag said:

Wrapping 2 wires onto one lug is not allowed...that's called "double lugging" and a no no by code. You need to connect the 2 black wires and a pig tail wire together via a wire nut and then connect the other end of the pig tail wire to the lug. This is the correct way to do this!
Why can't he backstab one and wrap the other around the lug? I see it done all the time
If you're referring to the old backstab switches whereby the wire is just stuck in a hole on the back side of the switch, it can be done but I don't trust those backstabs any further than I can throw them. Over time, the connection can degrade causing a potential fire hazard. Been there and seen several cases where the wires actually pulled loose from the connection when I was in the process of changing several backstab switches and convenience outlets out!

Now if you're talking about the kind whereby the wire is inserted under the screw mounting plate from the backside of the switch, then you should be able to connect both wires via that method as those switches have wire insertion points on both sides of the mounting screws. That would alleviate the need to pigtail.
BCSWguru
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got some free time today and dived back into this. can the pigtail wires joined go to the other/fan switch instead of the light switch? I do want to do this right.

Gary79Ag
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AG
LSCSN said:

got some free time today and dived back into this. can the pigtail wires joined go to the other/fan switch instead of the light switch? I do want to do this right.


Yes, the pig tailed power wire can be connected to either the fan switch or the light switch and then a jumper wire is used to connect the power line feed over to the other one!
BCSWguru
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Thank you so much. Gives me much more confidence replacing a few more switches wired the same exact way.
flown-the-coop
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AG
toolshed said:

Wire wrapped around the screw and going to the second switch is likely the hot coming into the box. The other black pushed into the switch is likely feening hot to another plug or switch elsewhere. Red wire is the switch leg to the light.

You can test with the power on, use needle nose and touch the red wire to the looped wire and see if the light comes on.

Read the instructions for the dimmer, but it's made to work on a three way setup or single switch. Use the screws noted for the single switch location. Tighten the third screw that you aren't using so it doesn't contact a stray ground as easily.
Using needle nose to hot test the circuity reminds me of the AV guys that came in to mount TVs a couple of weeks ago. They put in plugs behind the TV mounts and home skillet just cut a hole, ran romex down to nearest plug or switch and wired.

And he did it all working hot. In my office, he was doing work while I was at my desk and said not to be alarm if something sparked and to maybe unplug my laptop from wall. Told him I have properly labeled breakers and that he should consider that route. Said no, this is quicker.

Putting your life in the hands of tool insulation and a breaker working properly is not my idea of a good time.
Aggieangler93
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AG
I know some guys work with it hot, but I never do. I could care less how much time to walk down the hall to the breaker panel, as long as I survive it!
Class of '93 - proud Dad of a '22 grad and a '26 student!
BlackGoldAg2011
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AG
toolshed said:


You can test with the power on, use needle nose and touch the red wire to the looped wire and see if the light comes on.

just don't bump the ground wire with the side of your pliers while holding a hot conductor. thats a great way to get some excess copper welded to the side of your pliers. hypothetically speaking of course...
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