Re-Sealing stained concrete

1,195 Views | 3 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by Worm01
Gigemags05
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AG
I stained and sealed the floor of my shop 2.5 yrs ago simply bc I had all the stuff to do it from a fire sale Home Depot had one time.

The floors have held up well and the color still looks good, but they need to be re-sealed.

What's a good product to use? I want the floor to have a nice sheen/gloss to it if possible. I know it's a little more slick, but I don't think that will be too big of a deal.

There are a couple of locations where I've got some oil stains, do those need to be removed? If so, what's the best way to do that?
jtp01
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AG
Yes, you will need to remove all oil stains to allow for proper adhesion of the sealer. I'd also suggest to strip the existing sealer from other areas for a consistent look.

Go to a White Cap, CMC, Ram Tool and ask for a 30% solids acrylic concrete sealer. Do not waste your time with stuff from the big box stores. I was in that industry for 13 years and the stuff at the big box stores is the cheapest material out there. I'm curious what sealer you used that only lasted a couple of years, typically you should get many more years from a quality sealer unless there is a tremendous heavy traffic pattern.

The 30% solids will give you the glossy look you are looking for but as you mentioned it will be REALLY slick if it gets wet.
Gigemags05
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AG
Well, i used a cheapo sealer from Hone Depot. However, being in a shop it gets incredible abuse.
jtp01
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AG
Yes, I think you will benefit from a quality sealer product. Stick with the supply houses in my previous post and you will be happy with the performance of the product.

I do not have any experience with the dealers at various paint suppliers, so I cannot speak to their quality. They very well could be good product, I just haven't been around it.
Worm01
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AG
I did this last weekend for my kitchen/dining room. Used a Zep product from contractor's supply. Three-step process. (Actually 4)

Step 1: Sweep and mop the floor with regular soap and water VERY thoroughly. You can use Dawn if you are about to reseal anyway. It will get some of the oil stains. Also damages sealer, but doesn't matter for obvious reasons.

Step 2: Apply stripper. Mop on in one somewhat liberal coat. Then rinse, mopping with ONLY hot water. You may have to do this 3-4 times, but keep mopping until it stops being cloudy/chalky.

Step 3: Apply sealer. Two coats, mopped on in thin layers in a figure 8 motion. Let dry 30 minutes between coats.

Step 4: Apply polish. Four coats, mopped on in thin layers in a figure 8 motion. Let dry 30 minutes between coats.


I've done this once before, about 5 years ago. In the dining room with moderate traffic, I really didn't need to do it again. In the kitchen, which is VERY high traffic, it lasted pretty good for 5 years. Just had gotten kind of dull. Probably could have just cleaned and re-applied the polish coats, but wanted to do it right.
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