Input on whether wall is load-bearing (photos included)

3,297 Views | 20 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by BC GRAD
shoc08
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AG
Hi, I am wanting to turn a partition wall in our kitchen into a bar/island. I'm pretty sure it's not load-bearing based on what I've seen in the attic but would like some sage TexAgs advice as well .

Hopefully my photos explain it pretty well. The opened up wall is obviously the one I want to remove. The paneled wall in the corner is an exterior wall. I stuck a white rod up through the top plate of the partition wall as a reference. All ceiling joists run parallel to the partition wall; the closest joist is 3" offset from the center of the partition, so it doesn't sit on the wall.

There is a 2x6 standing on edge that runs perpendicularly across the top of joists. I'm not sure what this is for because there is nothing tying into it vertically. Perhaps it's just to link all the joists so they can't flex independently from each other? Either way, it doesn't seem to rely on the partition wall for anything.

Is there anything I'm missing that would indicate this is a load-bearing wall?













dubi
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Take one more photo from about 15' away showing all the joists and and arrow where your white rod is located.
JP76
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From what you posted that does not look load bearing. The 2x6 turned on edge is called dead wood and is normally centered over a 2x4 wall to give ~1 inch of overhang to anchor ceiling drywall too.
purplehayes
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Concur with JP76
Gary79Ag
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Quote:

There is a 2x6 standing on edge that runs perpendicularly across the top of joists. I'm not sure what this is for because there is nothing tying into it vertically. Perhaps it's just to link all the joists so they can't flex independently from each other? Either way, it doesn't seem to rely on the partition wall for anything.
The 2x6 standing on edge is a stiff back, also called a strong back, that is most likely secured to either a 2x4 or 2x6 that is laying flat across the ceiling joists to keep them from twisting and to keep the 16 or 24 inch on centers, depending on which method was used during the ceiling joists install.
shoc08
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Yep, the 2x6 has a flat 2x4 up against it forming an L shape. Thanks for the lesson on that one. I'll try to get a shot from farther back.
Gilligan
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It's not load bearing if there isn't a stud to the ridge or a pearling. i.e. is any thing above your white rod supporting anything above it or along it's length.

however, you did shove the white rod through a ventilation duct. Minus four points for that!

Good luck. looks like a fun project.

Gilligan
Builder93
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You might want to repair that duct.
Aggietaco
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Hopefully it's rigid duct and he just poked through the insulation.
shoc08
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Haha, ya I did puncture the insulation around the hard ducting. Oops.

I've never torn out a wall before, which makes me a bit leery even though I am pretty much convinced it's not load bearing. Nothing is resting on the top of that wall other than the 2x6 that the wiring runs down through.

Thanks for being my sounding board!
Gary79Ag
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You're good to go shoc08!!! Go for it and enjoy the results.

I've done this multiple times doing several rennovations to a couple of my homes over the years and couldn't be prouder for the end results...had some help with some major load bearing wall removals as well and have been happy with them all.
dubi
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Tearing them out is easy; I can even do that!

/edit to say obviously you must move the wiring first!
shoc08
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Alright, one more question before I dig into the wall tomorrow. Is there a chance this partition wall acts as some kind of shear restraint for the exterior walls? The wood panel wall is an exterior wall, as is the section of kitchen wall with the wood door and the wall that intersects with the door.

My dad is playing devil's advocate and suggesting that the horizontal blocking could indicate the wall is designed for some shear loads.
Gary79Ag
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shoc08 said:

Alright, one more question before I dig into the wall tomorrow. Is there a chance this partition wall acts as some kind of shear restraint for the exterior walls? The wood panel wall is an exterior wall, as is the section of kitchen wall with the wood door and the wall that intersects with the door.

My dad is playing devil's advocate and suggesting that the horizontal blocking could indicate the wall is designed for some shear loads.
Not sure what was on that wall before you demoed it as shown in the first pic with the horizontal blocking, but seeing the pencil scribe marks on the vertical studs suggests to me that that was to denote exactly where the top of the blocking needed to be installed horizontally to be used as blocking for securing some kind of cabinetry or shelving, or whatever.

That would provide adequate horizintal blocking to properly secure to in the case the mounting points would not line up with the 16" on center studs. I did that for all of our walls in our kitchen area when we remodeled it for that specific purpose as there was no guarantee the studs lined up where my cabimets needed to be secured to the wall structure.

And no, that blocking was not installed for some sort of shear restraint for the exterior walls as your dad is suggesting!
jt2hunt
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Agree with Gary
shoc08
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It's been an empty wall as long as we've lived here, but there is a blanked off gas line as well as a cut out in the sheetrock up high suggesting that a range and vent hood were at least considered for that wall during construction.

The blocking is flush with the dining room wall though so wouldn't be much use for hanging cabinets in the kitchen. My guess now is that it was used to help stiffen the paneling that was secured to that wall.
JP76
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It was normal to block horizontal if paneling was being installed to help prevent buckling. Sometimes you will even find the paneling liquid nailed to the studs and blocking.
AgCWby90CS
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If it was a shear wall you would have found cross bracing and/or 1/2 to 3/4 sheathing on the wall as studs and horizontal blocking are not enough to attempt shear bracing for outside wall in as short a wall as that is.
CWby '90
dubi
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AgCWby90CS48

Origin of your username please?
AgCWby90CS
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dubi said:

AgCWby90CS48

Origin of your username please?
Sure, Ag of course Aggie Class of '90, My initials are CW and grew up showing steers and saddle breaking horses, so CoWBoY. Live in Clear Spring and have a 48 Willys
CWby '90
Gilligan
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Progress Report please
BC GRAD
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Better patch that insulation, as left alone, duct will condensate and cause leakage to your ceiling. Been there, paid dearly to replace insulation, and fix sheetrock.
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