I bought a Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller which allows me to open/close my garage doors using my alarm.com account/smartphone setup. I have two garage doors - one is a Chamberlain and the other is a LiftMaster.

I set up the GD00Z-4 to my Liftmaster door and when an open/close signal is sent from my phone, it receives the signal, does the 5-second beep warning, but does not initiate the door opener to close/open the door.

I thought it might be the GD00Z-4, so I wired it up to the Chamberlain and it works perfectly.

I talked to the GD00Z-4 manufacturer and they said the LiftMaster is "incompatible" (and of course my model was not on their incompatible list...argh). The agent on the phone said the GD00Z-4 needs to be wired on an "normally open dry contact", which this model LiftMaster I guess is not. I don't know what that means.

One solution I read was that you could wire your GD00Z-4 to the wall switch rather than directly to the opener, but I am not sure how to do this.

Is my best bet to just go find a new compatible opener or...what other options do I have? If I do go get a new opener - how can I make sure it has a normally open dry contact so it works with my GD00Z-4?

TIA

Can't help much on door opener, but if you choose to buy a second smart controller, the Lowe's IRIS brand is the same unit as the GoControl, for usually a lower cost.

CapCity12thMan said:

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One solution I read was that you could wire your GD00Z-4 to the wall switch rather than directly to the opener, but I am not sure how to do this.

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This should mean connecting the two wires from the GD00Z-4 to the back of the wall switch along with the wires that run to the opener. Effectively pushing the button via remote.

right I get that, but where in the wall switch to patch in the wires from the GD00Z-4. If I tie the wires into the wires leading out from it, that is the same as tying them into the terminals on the opener, which as I mentioned above - does not work. So I am assuming there are some contact points inside the wall switch I tie into to make it trigger and then the wall switch does its job from there.

I'm not following you hurricanejake....

$75 - https://www.irisbylowes.com/products/iris-garage-door-controller/

versus

$76 - https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=asc_df_B00M75TEIU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152358566&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12943115403841784962&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028322&hvtargid=pla-272403027502&psc=1

I'm tied into 2Gig products for my alarm, thermostats and switches...decided to keep in that ecosystem for the garage doors. Most of the newer garage door openers have their own app, and I want one app to manage everything (mine is alarm.com which is now brinks). Perhaps some of these apps can manage an entire house of ZWave devices though - I don't know. For me $75 x 2 to solve the problem of my wife always asking me if I closed the garage door when I get upstairs was a no-brainer.

Ah - that's a recent price drop. I've been following the same one on Amazon, and it had been listed for $89-$99, historically.

CapCity12thMan said:

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I bought a Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller which allows me to open/close my garage doors using my alarm.com account/smartphone setup. I have two garage doors - one is a Chamberlain and the other is a LiftMaster.

I set up the GD00Z-4 to my Liftmaster door and when an open/close signal is sent from my phone, it receives the signal, does the 5-second beep warning, but does not initiate the door opener to close/open the door.

I thought it might be the GD00Z-4, so I wired it up to the Chamberlain and it works perfectly.

I talked to the GD00Z-4 manufacturer and they said the LiftMaster is "incompatible" (and of course my model was not on their incompatible list...argh). The agent on the phone said the GD00Z-4 needs to be wired on an "normally open dry contact", which this model LiftMaster I guess is not. I don't know what that means.

One solution I read was that you could wire your GD00Z-4 to the wall switch rather than directly to the opener, but I am not sure how to do this.

Is my best bet to just go find a new compatible opener or...what other options do I have? If I do go get a new opener - how can I make sure it has a normally open dry contact so it works with my GD00Z-4?

TIA

which model # Lift master Opener do you have?

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oh and also I thought I would mention...a week or so after messing with trying to get this to work, my wall switch went out, so I either need to get a new wall switch and wire my GD00Z-4 into that or just punt and get a new opener, but I want one without all the MyQ Wifi stuff on it.

CapCity12thMan said:

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oh and also I thought I would mention...a week or so after messing with trying to get this to work, my wall switch went out, so I either need to get a new wall switch and wire my GD00Z-4 into that or just punt and get a new opener, but I want one without all the MyQ Wifi stuff on it.

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What wall switch do you have?

https://access-master.garage-door-opener-parts.com/liftmaster_links/smart_control_panel.asp

CapCity12thMan said:

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https://access-master.garage-door-opener-parts.com/liftmaster_links/smart_control_panel.asp

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Just spitballing here, so take it for what its worth.

A normally open contact would be a switch that when at rest would be open. When pushed it would close.

"Dry" refers to voltage. Dry contact means there is no voltage running thru the wires themselves.

I would assume there is no voltage running thru the switch wires for this controller. The LEDs are powered via battery?

If this is the case, you could simulate a "Normally open, Dry Contact" switch simply by touching the two wires together.

If this works, then just a normal door bell switch would work.

This may not provide all the functionallity that your current door opener switch can provide.

I think the with the "smart" switches, different fuctions are achieved by a different resistance for each button.

what I don't understand is why the GD00Z-4, when wired into the opener, doesn't make the opener function. I tried this with and without the wall switch wired into the opener and got same results. So, what is the wall switch doing that the GD00Z-4 isn't?

I think I am gonna get a new opener, but will call the GD00Z-4 company to find one I know works, or just get same Chamberlain I have on the other side, since it all works fine.

Since I don't know what I am talking about, and you seem to - perhaps this makes sense to you:

https://community.smartthings.com/t/go-control-garage-door-opener-closer-not-actually-opening-or-closing-garage-door/74451

CapCity12thMan said:

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what I don't understand is why the GD00Z-4, when wired into the opener, doesn't make the opener function. I tried this with and without the wall switch wired into the opener and got same results. So, what is the wall switch doing that the GD00Z-4 isn't?

I think I am gonna get a new opener, but will call the GD00Z-4 company to find one I know works, or just get same Chamberlain I have on the other side, since it all works fine.

Since I don't know what I am talking about, and you seem to - perhaps this makes sense to you:

https://community.smartthings.com/t/go-control-garage-door-opener-closer-not-actually-opening-or-closing-garage-door/74451

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I see. It is telling you to intercept the button inside your existing wall control. The wall control apparently sends a specific CODE to the opener to make it open, not just a pulse. basically having the GD00Z-4 make your wall control think you have pressed the buttton which will, in turn, send the correct code (not just a signal) to the opener.

You will need to open your wall control, find the small button on the circuit board that gets pressed when you press the large "door open/close" button, then solder the two wires from your GD00Z-4 to two legs of that switch. Rather simple if you are familiar with these kinds of things, but can be intimidating if you are not.

Your wall control needs to work for this to work. If your wall control went out, you need to replace it first.

Not intimidated at all and now I finally have an excuse to solder something and a reason to buy a solder gun. Or maybe I take it to some elcectronic shop and hand somebody $10.

Based on your assessment it sounds like a simple doorbell switch will not work so I need a compatible one to my lift master.

If your current switch doesn't work I believe you would need a compatible replacement.
You may double check that in all this tinkering your switch didn't just lose connectivity with the opener.

CapCity12thMan said:

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oh and also I thought I would mention...a week or so after messing with trying to get this to work, my wall switch went out, so I either need to get a new wall switch and wire my GD00Z-4 into that or just punt and get a new opener, but I want one without all the MyQ Wifi stuff on it.

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Yes it should. The easiest way to test it is touch the two wires together at the opener button, if it opens it will work. The GoControl owner is a simple relay so it simply changes from N/O to closed.

....UPDATE

Quote:

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a week or so after messing with trying to get this to work, my wall switch went out

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I recently had to change the light bulb on the opener, and discovered one wire from the wall switch was not in place on the opener. Once I connected it back - voila - power again to the wall switch and all is good...

I then found this, which is what I think i need to do with my GD00Z-4...wire/solder it to the right place on the board on my wall switch.

https://community.garadget.com/t/security-2-0-openers-yellow-learn-button/156/8

These two yellow buttons are on my wall switch:


It looks like pressing either one makes the door work, so my question is where to solder these wires from my GD00Z-4 ?

bump for soldering advice

Do you have a multi-meter? If so, use the continuity tester to see which legs of the switch are connected when the button is pushed. Then you will know where to connect your leads.

I do have a multi-meter...what I don't understand is - pressing either one of the yellow buttons on the opener activates the door...so conceivably I would need to solder to only one of the buttons. If you flip the opener over, each yellow button is soldered to board by its four corners...I assume I will connect to two of those - just don't know which ones.

An alternative would be to take a piece of wire and touch each end to a different leg of the button until you find the combination that opens the garage door. Once you find that combination, attach the leads to those two.

I agree that you would only need to solder to two legs of one of the buttons.