I had Terminix come out because we had evidence of rodents in the garage and attic and the Bony Dog (RIP) was bringing fleas inside.

That was three months ago.

They came out for the next quarterly visit and informed us that we had evidence of rodents in the garage and attic (oh really?) and said that we would need to remove all insulation for $3,700, replace it with new rodent deterrent insulation ($3,700) and place exclusion measures ($2,700) to prevent further issues.

I obviously balked at the price, let them know that rodents were one of the reasons I called them in the first place and when asked, they couldn't even tell me if it was treated for them in the first place.

They offered a "free" glue trap and I asked why that wasn't placed originally, again they weren't sure. They then stated that the insulation work wasn't absolutely necessary because they would sanitize the existing stuff anyway with the exclusion work.

I sure as hell am not going to give them $10,200, but are the exclusion measures even necessary if they would have done their job and put traps or poison out in the first place?

Seconded

I've been in hundreds of attics. I'd venture 95% of them have always had rat droppings inside if the house was over 5 years old. I've also sealed up many houses over the years. It doesn't take much for mice to get in. Most common are weep holes and where the freon lines pentetrate the house. Use this to seal up weep holes

https://www.amazon.com/Pestplug-Long-Stainless-Steel-Wool/dp/B00H61BJU6


You have to get rid of the food source first. Usually it is pet food or bird seed.

Then you have to either trap what's inside or put bait traps out that will force them to leave to look for water.

Last seal all weep holes using stainless steel wool. If you use regular steel it will rust. Caulk or mortar all pentrations around your house. Another common point of entry is where a gable terminates onto another roofline.

As mentioned, stainless steel wool into every weephole and other gap you can find, high or low - regardless of size. Can also use metal flashing to cover any larger gaps like where the gables meet the roof (then paint over). Trim trees/large shhrubs back from the roof.

Then a bait box on every side of your house. Can order a half-dozen online for about $60 (see Protecta Sidekick on amazon). I prefer to put snap traps vs poison in them, and i just check them once a week or so. You can do snap (the plastic jaws ones), poison, or both with the Protecta Sidekick. Try to put the boxes in areas that might funnel the rats to the trap, ie between your AC unit and the wall, a gap under your fence where rats may enter your yard from the alley, etc

Between plugging holes and the traps, I kill anything before it has a chance to find (or create) a way in.

Where are you located?

Thanks for the tips guys.

Located in Mansfield

Keeping branches and bushes off the house helps. Did that and the rodents chewing trying to get access stopped at my house

DannyDuberstein said:

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Can also use metal flashing to cover any larger gaps like where the gables meet the roof (then paint over).

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That's all great, but not really effective of you have a roof ridge vent across the entire roof. Then what?

The ends of the roof vents are usually what is susceptible, and those can be plugged with the stainless steel/copper method mentioned above. mortar could be used as well.

Holy cow, Bony dog died? I don't often read GB and missed that.

RIP

Terminix are big scammers. Find some local small to mid sized pest company.