Is there anything special or 'extra' about replacing an old water heater with a tankless, as long as there is 220v service and the proper water lines? I will have to bring our old house setup up to code before selling and I'm looking at options. The current electric water heater is not raised and has no drain to the outside. TIA.

Haven't looked into it in a while, but the tankless electrics usually suck.

dallasiteinsa02 said:

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Haven't looked into it in a while, but the tankless electrics usually suck.

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Hmm...Endless hot water and nearly 95% efficiency (won't happen with gas tankless) sucks? If anyone has any questions, I have 3 in my home and have owned them since 2000. It was designed for them so they are not retrofits. They have each been replaced once. Happy to answer any questions.

One thing you will have to address, OP, is that my smallest unit uses dual 40A breakers to run. Most people do not have the electrical capacity or willingness to bring their electric up to snuff for this kind of load.
It is completely dependent on the unit you buy. Some are Dual 50A, some are single 50A, some are dual 40A. The electrical is a problem for most people. You need the proper wire, breakers, and space (physical and electrical) to have it done right.

Main disadvantages for retrofit are costs associated with the units, plumbing and electrical upgrades required. My system is setup with zoned systems in case one fails. There is always hot water in a shower somewhere. For a whole house unit like you will require, the electrical will be hefty as will the ass pain if it fails and you cannot replace it with an identical unit of size, shape, and electrical requirement quickly.

turfman80 said:

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I will have to bring our old house setup up to code before selling and I'm looking at options. The current electric water heater is not raised and has no drain to the outside. TIA.

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Is this a MUST do or a WANT to?

Usually it is not a requirement. It is a requirement that the inspector note that it is not up to current code, but usually nothing that says you must fix it as long as it was to code at the time of installation.

You could get an estimate to bring it to code and discount your price. This helps you avoid any "unforseen issues" that get identified during the fix.

Location ?

If electric I don't believe it has to be elevated unless gas and exposed in a garage. On the drain if it is not near an exterior wall you can often get a variance and pass if you install an automatic shutoff valve that works off of a water sensor placed in the pan.

All great information...thanks! I was thinking I was faced with a tough situation but it looks like I can get by a little easier.