My wife and I recently purchased an older craftsman home. We're having some plumbing and electrical work done that I don't want to mess with. However, we recently got an additional quote to add 12 recessed lights. The company gave us a figure of $140-$160 depending on the 4" or 6" light and can/trim we choose. I think that is fair, but I figured I could supply and install the lights, and then perhaps have them wire them up to the switches.

I've done some fairly minor electrical work before: new fixtures, installed dimmer, etc, but can't say I've ever installed a recessed light or a new switch that didn't exist before. I did a lot of reading and am still confused as to all of the types they offer. It looked like to me the most common is a 6" can with a junction box attached at the back side that you pop in and then trims are added to it or "retrofit" kits.

We have 4 - 4" lights currently installed in the living room, but we want to add 4 for a dining room and 4 per bedroom. I found this kit from Lithonia that looks straightforward. I even watched a youtube video where they were right under a joist and it still fit up against the drywall no problem.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-Wafer-4-in-White-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Kit-WF4-LED-30K-WINGSTACK/302576571



My wife wants me to potentially change out the old 4" kits to prove that I can do that before drilling and attempting to add more. I was really just planning on installing the lights, but having the electricians finish up the final wiring.

Here is another kit, but I don't see why anyone would want to go this route versus the slim one. Anyone have feedback or thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-in-Matte-White-Recessed-Baffle-Integrated-LED-Lighting-Kit-LK4BMW-LED-M4/205484816

I'm in your same boat as far as selecting lights right now.

My understanding is that the slim line kits are really made for areas where there is no clearance for an old work can and mount. You're going to cut the same size hole, regardless. Wiring either is really the same process as well. But, be aware....given the size of the transformer box on the slim line kit, you can only run a maximum of 2 14/2 runs into them. Not a big deal if you are wiring in series, but could cause trouble if you have something else going on.

All in all, assuming you have the clearance, I think the cheapest way to go is an old work box with led trim insert.

Curious as to thoughts as well.

I'm not sure if you end up saving that much by going with the traditional work box. I saw these contractor packs that are less than $10 a light, but that's just the box. I think most light kits that install in there will run $10-$20 depending on what you get. You are back to $25-$30 for the whole thing.

The normal can takes up room vertically so you can't be in the way of something, but that's pretty easy to avoid with enough precaution and finder/magnets.

I don't see a big downside to the wafer style and people on HD seem pretty happy!


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-6-in-Aluminum-Recessed-IC-Remodel-Housing-6-Pack-CAT7ICRM/202057577

I don't know you attic access, but I find they are easier to wire from below the ceiling, make up the junction boxes and push the whole wires unit up and install. If you install them first, they may remove them to wire and push them back in, thus negating your "savings". I would just have them do the job turnkey.

Good point.


Silly question: say you want to run Romex cabling from light to light installing from the bottom. How are they fishing it around if you have plywood potentially nailed down over the joists? Would they be drilling a hole up through the wood and fishing it horizontally?

I installed a bunch of your second choice (just the recessed retrofit cans), then bought Cree/Ecosmart 4" LED bulbs to put in them. I went that route in case one craps out later, I'd be more likely to find a matching replacement and could just screw it right in opposed to changing out all the fixtures to make them all look the same.

Yeah, a coworker said that would be one benefit: ultimate flexibility in changing out the trim, lights, etc.

I was hesitant to go with the wafer Lithonia, but it has all of the same advantaged of an IC rated housing. I think I'll buy one at HD today and see if I can't swap 1 out as a potential trial run before buying 11 x $25 kits.

• Energy efficient edge-lit LED technology provides even illumination
• 675 Lumens and 9.6-Watt with bright white color temperature, 3000K
• Long lasting LEDs are designed to last 36,000 hours, drastically reducing time wasted changing light bulbs
• IC rated - safe to install in direct contact with insulation
• No housing needed
• Dimmable to 10%
• Wet location listed

It's more about what happens if you get 5 years down the road and that non-replaceable LED burns out or malfunctions and that wafer is no longer sold. What do you replace it with to match all of the others?

That is a good question.

I suspect that 5 years down the line, they will still be making a ceiling light with a flat glazed face that is offered in a 4" version...in some brand.

Assuming you have incandesnt lights now. Make sure you are ok with bright white as opposed to a soft white. My MIL changed all of the bulbs in her kitchen can lights with bright white and it looks like a dentist office chair in there.

hodgesco said:

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Assuming you have incandesnt lights now. Make sure you are ok with bright white as opposed to a soft white. My MIL changed all of the bulbs in her kitchen can lights with bright white and it looks like a dentist office chair in there.

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Warm white LEDs are available. I installed them in my parents kitchen can lights last year. The look very similar to incandescent bulbs.

The home owner had some ~3000-3500K light from what I can tell. These Lithonia 3000K are spot on for an inviting warm light that isn't too office-feeling. 2700K can be a tad too yellow.

I'm actually going to Home Depot now to snag some of those Lithonia kits. It would be great I could swap out the old cans tonight, but I suspect that I'll run into issues yanking them out. I'll update this thread assuming I have something to show...

Tried to yank out a can during my lunch break and struggled with those 3 springs.

I tried to use a screw driver and pull it down. I then used my hands to grab them and pulled it down a half inch but it wouldn't let go. I'm not 100% sure if there is something on top keeping it all together, but I doubt they used the brace to the joists...


*Update* - Was looking a video clips on youtube and even the guy demonstrating the removal hadn't set those springs. Hah. I think I'm going to take my dremel tool and cut the springs from the inside. I don't have any other trick in mind...

Pic of Can

I cut those clips. Worked like a charm. Pics to follow

The trick on the clips is that to lock them in, you push them all the way up. So removal is the opposite, inserting something in the round hole and pull it down until it bottoms out in the slot below. Then, you should be able to pry the top part of the spring inward toward the center of the can.

My electricians can't figure out how to lock the cans in place, so if you mess with them, they aren't always tight, or they shift around.

By plywood above, do you mean a decked attic space? Yes, they'd have to run it along the top of the plywood, but I think that's a no no by code. The insulating jacket can get damaged walking or moving things on it and short the wire. So they'd likely want it protected with conduit or look at running it more out of the way somehow.