Starting a project and want to make sure i know what i am getting in to

11,442 Views | 74 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by third coast..
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GasAg90
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I plan on doing something very similar to what you are doing. I'd like to hear whatever advice is out there.
TexAg1987
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Research the height and projection of your mantel. There is a code as to how far it can stick out and how high above the fire box it must be.
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87IE
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AG
Do you plan on having any access to the shutoff valve?
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87IE
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AG
third coast.. said:

actually just found the old access door from when the gas line was installed and it will allow me enough access to operate both valves.


Good deal. Easier to get to if you have a problem and with my luck I'd cover it up before turning the 1st valve on.
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toolshed
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AG
I think you are on the right track. Is remove the drywall on the left side to about the same point as it is on the right side. This keeps you from having to redo the corners on the drywall if you happen to get into the metal corner bead and pop the mud joint. You can cut about 3/4" more out so that your hardi is lapping the stud.

Hardi the wall area. Install the mantel above. I'd double check the clearance height above the firebox, vs just assuming it was done correctly before. If you are in a house that's inside the city limits and it was inspected, chances are it's correct, but it's good to double check.

Once the mantel is on, you can mortar or thunder the stone to the hardi. I assume it's a lightweight cultured stone? A latex thinset may be better to use vs a true mortar, that's what tile is applied to Hardi with. Then you aren't having to mix sand, cement and water properly to make a true stone mortar.

Personally, I would mark a level vertical line where you want the stone to stop and slightly overlap it with the factory edges of the stone. I wouldn't put up any quarterround. The stone edges to drywall will look fine, quarterround is going to create a gap with the uneven edge of the stone that will look like it needs to be filled, and look less professional, in my opinion. Not sure if you are going for the drystack or mortared stone look, but I think I'd leave out the quarterround. Use factory, uncut edges at the exposed sides of the firebox and right and left side of the stone wall itself.

That's my two cents.
agnerd
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AG
And for the love of God, run a power, ethernet, and HDMI cables in the wall before you cover it with stone. Hide the connections with a picture or scrap piece of stone if you don't want to look at it. The next owner will thank you.
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Sazerac
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AG
I did this earlier this year but it was over brick which made ituch easier

https://texags.com/forums/61/topics/2862525
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toolshed
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AG
My thought was to let the stone overlap the drywall to hardi joint by a bit to cover it up.

A latex thinset will bond well to the hardi, fairly well to the drywall (not critical), and should support that stone as well. The dry stack look allows the weight of the material to rest on the rows below, so the thinset more holds it to the wall vs supporting the entire weight.

The stone you linked is square cut on the ends. I think if you can get a good straight line ( mark the wall, check and use a level or good straight edge as you lay the courses to keep the ends straight), I think the look would be better without the quarter round. But that's a personal preference. You can hold a piece up once you've laid the stone and decide then.

Looks like a rewarding project. I like the new look vs the paneled look!
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toolshed
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AG
You can get 1/2" x3'x5' or 1/4"x3'x5' at the big box stores. I was assuming using 1/2" hardi. It won't give or flex between the studs.

A drywall vendor should have 4x8 sheets of 1/2" if you wanted to go that route and a vendor was nearby.
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toolshed
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AG
That's how we do shower installs sometimes, cut the drywall at the old tile location, install blocking behind if needed and hardi up to the cut line. Then install Kerdi liner as a waterproofing and overlap the cut with the new tile. Then you don't have to tape and float the joint if you aren't redoing the texture and such in the area.
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The Fife
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How much of the drywall bits has the toddler tried to eat or mess with? Ours LOVES to mess with that stuff.
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coolerguy12
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AG
third coast.. said:

agnerd said:

And for the love of God, run a power, ethernet, and HDMI cables in the wall before you cover it with stone. Hide the connections with a picture or scrap piece of stone if you don't want to look at it. The next owner will thank you.
can you expand on the HDMI cable and the ethernet? I am getting close to closing it up. I am running power to the area but you have me thinking about the ethernet and the HDMI. I have no idea where i would run them to, but i want to explore all possibilities before i close it up.


This would be to set a blue ray player and cable box in a cabinet somewhere else so a tv could be installed over the mantle with no wires. Hence saying the next owner will thank you.
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Aggietaco
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AG
If you're single story, just run it up to the attic and leave plenty of excess to get where you would need to go, or just install conduit. If you're two story and slab on grade, that's a bit tougher unless you want to just coil it up by your access panel for future use.

Also, just run Cat 5e/6 cable and use an HDMI extender if necessary.
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dallasiteinsa02
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You might have issues using your gas stove and the fireplace at the same time with not having enough gas to run both. Probably not an issue most of the time.
GasAg90
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Third Coast - thanks for letting us follow along with your project. Would you mind sharing the brand of veneer you are using?

TIA
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sts7049
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AG
nice piece of wood. how are you planning to mount that beast?
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The Fife
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sts7049 said:

nice piece of wood. how are you planning to mount that beast?

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