Looking to build cabin on lake above flood zone

3,695 Views | 18 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by ABATTBQ11
Craigy
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My bother class of '81 owns our familys' legacy property on Lake Texoma and he has given me to go ahead on rebuilding on his current lake lot that has flooded 4 time in the last 30 years.He is living overseas. I am going to put a cabin on the remaining small part of the .62 acre lot that is out of the flood zone. I have limited construction experience, limited budget and I need engineering help on what can be built on the lot. I do not know how to upload pictures here so I made a Craigslist post here https://texoma.craigslist.org/wan/6163524264.html Here is hoping I place this in the right forum. Thank in advance!
Gary79Ag
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AG
Here ya go CraigSU84...hopefully help with pics from a Shermanite!
















Quote:

I own .62 acre lot on Lake Texoma and I'm going to build a small cabin on it. The previous cabin was been flooded 4 times over the years and and looking to build on the small area that is the highest part of the lot. The former garage of the property still stands on a nice 29' x 24' post tension concrete slab with no cracks in it. There is is an existing water line that runs to the property and a most likely unusable septic system. I would like to somehow use the existing concrete slab to build up on for my floor of the cabin. 8 feet above the slab would be out of the flood zone. The front (top) on picture is North. The lot is at the bottom of a small road and grades up from the lake . The lake essentially being the lowest part and the road behind the lot being the highest part. I have a very good idea on what I would like to build, however I need someone qualified to see what the lot/current concrete slab handle . I want to build up from the concrete slab to get out of the flood zone with and open area cabin and have separate quarters on an adjoining square of space up to the top of the lot with and adjoining deck. I'm looking to do this on a tight budget. I'm a novice and I am looking for a qualified helping hand. I realize that person would need to eventually view the property but I want to give you all the information I have. This is a legacy property with my father that has passed building the first place in the 60's. I have nowhere near the construction knowledge he had and therefore I am looking for assistance. There are no Restrictive Covenants affecting the Property . I will be posting numerous pictures of the lot as is sits today. The last of the pictures will have images of the pillars I'm envisioning . In Summary, I'm looking for some answers. 1) What can I build? 2) Can I use the existing slab and will it be able to take the weight ? Also, the lot takes in all the water from above. So concrete work is needed to divert the path of the water to the lake. Finally the concrete slab has a box around it with wood log retaining system that has eroded due to this. Advice please?
agnerd
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AG
A few comments:

1. residential slabs are designed to carry distributed loads from walls made out of 2x4s that distributes weight primarily along the perimeter of the slab. Putting piers like the ones shown in your pictures will just crack the slab. If you want to build up, the right way is to either take out or cut through the slab and build footings beneath.

2. No easy way to certify an existing slab unless you have plans for it or maybe photos during construction. And even then the slab is 99% not capable of carrying a pier and beam foundation unless it was specifically designed for that in the first place

3. Erosion of the retaining wall is from water from the roof. Whatever you decide to do, put the gutters back up now to keep water from making a bad problem worse and eroding more.

4. Make absolutely sure the county is OK with you building in the floodplain. Even though you plan to build above floodplain, all of your foundation will be in the floodplain. Counties love to regulate foundations.

5. Water coming from down the hill can either be diverted around the structure or allowed to pass through it.

6. Getting an engineer to offer an opinion that's not anonymous and on a message board will probably be expensive.
Agmechanic
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AG
From the pictures, everything there needs to be dozed and hauled off

Flood zone or flood way? (Big difference). Any architect or engineer will want a topo survey done and the BFE determined

Either truck in fill (expensive) or
Drill piers (expensive)

You need to get hot and heavy on some poison ivy/oak remediation.


Corps_Ag12
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AG
If your foundation is in the floodplain, you're building in the floodplain. Ergo, you probably won't be able to insure it. I'd recommend a bay house style home on stilts or piers, similar to your brother's house.

As for the existing slab, it seems too large to build a house on stilts over it unless you build another post tension suspended slab over it which would be very expensive. 24x29 would be a long span for any wooden beam. Maybe you could use double T's then build a wood structure on top of that. Like a parking garage or highway.

I'm just spit balling here. Or just build a house in a different location & leave the garage. Or build a log cabin on top of the existing slab and hope it doesn't flood.

Note, not an engineer.
helloag99
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Go to the nearest own and find a/the local civil engineering firm/architect.
Craigy
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I appreciate all the replies. 650 feet above sea level is the level that builders are building on other parts of the lake . That would be 8 feet above the existing slab and room to park below. The reason for trying to use the existing slab is the view of the lake. The other (higher) part of the lot doesn't have a view. I will build there if it turns out that is the only option. Could I have piers around the exterior of the slab and build up from there? I really appreciate all of the responses.
Corps_Ag12
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AG
You mean around the existing slab?
Craigy
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Yes. But the drop off on the east side is very significant maybe 15 feet
Corps_Ag12
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AG
That'd be a long span for a wooden pier & beam IMO since you wouldn't have any center supports due to the post tensioned garage slab.

I would think you'd have to either do a post tensioned slab on top of the piers/columns or a concrete beam supports from pier/column to pier/column then stack double tee highway beams on those beams supported by the piers/columns. I can sketch that tomorrow if it sounds confusing. I've stayed in a house constructed in that manner & it's pretty impressive.
dtkprowler
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AG
I got Poison Ivy from those pictures....
Corps_Ag12
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AG
Corps_Ag12 said:

That'd be a long span for a wooden pier & beam IMO since you wouldn't have any center supports due to the post tensioned garage slab.

I would think you'd have to either do a post tensioned slab on top of the piers/columns or a concrete beam supports from pier/column to pier/column then stack double tee highway beams on those beams supported by the piers/columns. I can sketch that tomorrow if it sounds confusing. I've stayed in a house constructed in that manner & it's pretty impressive.
Craigy
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I believe It can be done w/o the 2nd tier concrete slab. At this point I'm looking for a civil engineer to assist. The property is in Grayson County,Texas. Does anyone havea referral for a civil engineer in Grayson County or close? If so, please contact me 903-815-5831 Thanks Everyone
Corps_Ag12
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AG
I don't disagree with you, but with that long of a span, they are going to be very large wooden beams. Steel may also be an option but again, very large beams due to the span.
TX AG 88
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AG
Seems like that slab is more of a problem than an asset. Demolish it and rebuild properly on the same site.
Craigy
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I'm finally starting my project. I'm securing the foundation, took my garage roof off and I'm building a steel building above the existing garage. It going to be 1200 square feet and I would like to use a ductless system to AC and heat. I am having trouble finding the number of BTU's and SEER(?) I will need. I'm in North Texas Any suggestions? Thanks
ABATTBQ11
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AG
CraigSU84 said:

I'm finally starting my project. I'm securing the foundation, took my garage roof off and I'm building a steel building above the existing garage. It going to be 1200 square feet and I would like to use a ductless system to AC and heat. I am having trouble finding the number of BTU's and SEER(?) I will need. I'm in North Texas Any suggestions? Thanks


SEER is an efficiency rating. It's really up to you.

BTU's will depend on lots of things. R value of the walls/roof/ceilings and how well the building is insulated, how much shade it has, size, location, and R value(IIRC) of windows and doors, location/direction of the structure, number of occupants, room use type, etc. All of these help determine heat gain and loss and how your system will need to be sized to meet the maximum heat gain/loss you expect to experience on any given day.

I have a textbook at home that goes over all this and actually used to have a great spreadsheet to plug it all into. I'll try to remember to post some of it when I get home. You may be able to look up a great gain/loss calculator online.
Craigy
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Ok I appreciate that I'll look for it
flown-the-coop
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AG
Believe you would be looking for a Manual J calculation.

SEER is strictly how efficient the machine is. Higher the SEER, lower your energy costs, but higher up front costs.

I am a big fan of mini-splits (or ductless) for smaller add on areas. If you have any further ideas of expanding, you can upsize the outside unit and add in components as needed.
ABATTBQ11
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AG
I found the book. There's a whole chapter on heat loss and gain and some examples on calculating. I'll try to pay more on it tomorrow. Kinda late to do it tonight and my phone is dying.
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