Internal sewer main line pipe coating

1,753 Views | 7 Replies | Last: 7 yr ago by Blane
PlanoAg98
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AG
Anyone ever have this done? My house is 40 years old and I'm starting to have some blockage due to pipe corrosion. The last plumber that cleared my line said that paper is getting caught on a corroded spot about 30 feet from the house towards the street. He also said that my pipes are cast iron and only have a life of 30-40 years. I'm looking into have this coating done to buy me some time even though it says it preserves for generations.

http://www.rotorooter.com/blog/4-types-of-sewer-linings-for-cracked-pipes/

Quote:

Internal pipe coating

Professional installers use internal pipe coating to repair an existing sewer pipe that has started to leak into surrounding soil. To prepare the area for treatment, they will completely drain the pipes to get rid of any water. A thick epoxy coating is sprayed on the inside of your pipes to permanently seal the leaks and cracks throughout the pipeline.
All of these pipe relining techniques leave behind a smooth, seamless pipe that is designed to last for generations.
Call the Plumbing Professionals at Roto-Rooter
Pipe relining requires the work of an experienced professional and is not a do-it-yourself job. For more information on sewer pipe replacement options, contact your local Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Service professional today.
The Fife
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I assume the cast iron corrodes from the outside, in so how would coating work in that scenario?
PlanoAg98
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AG
Quote:

I assume the cast iron corrodes from the outside, in so how would coating work in that scenario?

When cast iron pipes carry waste hydrogen sulfide gasses are created. When these gasses oxidize, corrosive sulfuric acid is created, rusting the pipes from the inside out.
Koko Chingo
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AG
I feel your pain being in a tough spot. My feeling is replacement is better than epoxy. But there could be a patio, fountain, or a million other things that cannot be moved making epoxy the way to go. My opinion below is based on the assumption that replacement is feasible otherwise go with epoxy.

If it was me, I would get a test and inspection from a different company. I would have them do a hydrostatic pressure test and then run the camera through to do a visual. If you do not have any leaks or major issues then just address your trouble spot causing backups.

Have the plumber cut out the section that is causing the backup plus a little before and after and replace it with new pipe. If you dig it up and just let the plumber do the plumbing, you can save a bit. It is expensive to pay a plumber to dig.

Other companies like American Leak Detectors and many residential plumbers can do the hydrostatic + visual check. I would start there before assuming the worst. Not every house built 1975 and later has failed plumbing. Unless you have multiple issues, just fix your problem spot until it is time to change it all out.
PlanoAg98
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AG
When running the camera with the last blockage, he pointed out a few spots where he said the pipe was corroded. I could not tell. He was trying to get me to buy in and replace the whole main line.
Koko Chingo
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AG
I was thinking about your post and now remember you had issues a couple of months ago. My house was built in 1966. I have cast iron drain pipes. I had to have a chunk jack-hammered out of my slab and a section repaired. I posted a picture of my problem. That is why I have sympathy for anyone with plumbing issues.


The biggest lesson I learned from the whole ordeal is to get the hydrostatic test done and to get a few different quotes on a repair. I had one company that wanted to tunnel under the house to repair my issue. It was over $15k. I went through the slab for $1k and replaced my flooring for less than tunneling. We also used that opportunity to redo all the flooring in the house. Still under $15k.


The hydrostatic test will check for leaks and the camera just gives a visual and can also serve as a locator. Once issues are verified, located, and then marked you can bring in other companies for quotes. You should be able to get pictures from the camera to show to anyone coming in to get quotes.


You only have one data point (Roto Rooter) and that makes it tough to make decisions. Get some more data points.


Good luck.
Gary79Ag
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AG
Koko Chingo said:

I was thinking about your post and now remember you had issues a couple of months ago. My house was built in 1966. I have cast iron drain pipes. I had to have a chunk jack-hammered out of my slab and a section repaired. I posted a picture of my problem. That is why I have sympathy for anyone with plumbing issues.


The biggest lesson I learned from the whole ordeal is to get the hydrostatic test done and to get a few different quotes on a repair. I had one company that wanted to tunnel under the house to repair my issue. It was over $15k. I went through the slab for $1k and replaced my flooring for less than tunneling. We also used that opportunity to redo all the flooring in the house. Still under $15k.


The hydrostatic test will check for leaks and the camera just gives a visual and can also serve as a locator. Once issues are verified, located, and then marked you can bring in other companies for quotes. You should be able to get pictures from the camera to show to anyone coming in to get quotes.


You only have one data point (Roto Rooter) and that makes it tough to make decisions. Get some more data points.


Good luck.
As Koko noted...get multiple bids from other plumbing companies...particularily if you only have 1 bid from Roto Rooter.

CONSUMER BEWARE as Roto Rooter has been known for scams to get customers to pay for more than is necessary...

Beware of the Roto Rooter Free Sewer Camera Inspection

or they'll do the job half arsed so they get to come back in the future...
Quote:

Kind of like a Roto-Rooter job that involved leaving a 1 foot section of old black pipe in my sewer line when the sewer line was replaced so they could come back several years later to replace it.
That was my situation a few years ago! Just do a google search on Roto Rooter scams...crazy!!!

SweaterVest
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AG
I'm not sure what your situation is but I'll tell you mine. I bought a house built in 1947 that had some sewer drain issues. Cracked cast iron under the house, some bellying in the concrete pipe in the yard, and a couple of corroded spots, all visual with a camera. I had one plumber tell me this would all have to be fixed immediately and he advised not running any appliances until it is all fixed. I had a family friend old school plumber come out and take a look as well. He said it would cost ~$20k minimum to replace everything if that's the route I want to take. My realtor asked him what he recommended if I'll only be living in the house 5-10 years and it will likely sell it to a developer or demo it myself after that. Plumber said have the lines scoped out with a snake and put pop off valves on my clean outs in case there is a backup. He said he wouldn't be too concerned about the minor cracks or leaks, just make sure the lines are clear. Take it for what it's worth...
Blane
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I agree with posts above about camera and marking the bad areas to be replaced if feasible.

Lining may help protect/smooth the line in areas that are normally aged. Depending on what the paper might be catching, the lining more than likely won't help in those areas. If the pipe is rough or broken or if roots are protruding then a lining won't smooth those areas. The epoxy will just cover those.

The camera will tell you a lot of the issues. Ask for a copy of it for yourself to examine or to show other plumbers when you asks for quotes.
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