I plan on tackling this project in the front and backyard (will NOT be going under driveway/sidewalks). Any advice? I plan on either using Rainbird or Hunter equipment and will rent a trencher from Sunbelt. Of corse call 811 (duh I work for a gas company). I've done tons of reading and YouTube watching as prep and will try to find a Home Depot class.

Any advice on deciding how to zone?

Are you in Houston? They just passed some new laws prohibiting this, I think.

Drumma, I think you're talking about the thread we had on here a while back...

http://texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?forum_id=61&topic_id=1974495&page=1&nomobile=1
Homeowners are exempt for DIY install.

I hadn't heard about a Houston specific law, other than the permitting process, but would be interest to know about it if it does exist?

[This message has been edited by Brad06ag (edited 2/27/2012 2:38p).]

I know in DFW homeowners are still allowed to install their own irrigation systems, which I still say is a BAD idea!

If you install it just make sure your calculations are correct. What size meter & whats your pressure at the nearest hose bib?

I live in Humble. I need to check with my HOA.

Not sure of the water pressure, need to get a gauge.

Brad - yes that's what I was thinking of. I forgot about the homeowners' exemption though.

most meters will have the size in the window

I don't know where my water meter is? Left side of house is gas and right is electric. I'm in a MUD district if that means anything.

Water meter is (typically) in a sub-surface box.

You (should) see a plastic, metal, or concrete "doohickey" in the yard somewhere. This will often have a door/gate in it to see the actual meter dial.

Unless you are on a well, in which case you'll have (or should have) a stumpy little shed over the top of the well head.

Oh yeah, if you are still keen to DIY this . . .

The utility marking people will only mark those things in ROW or easements. It will be up to you to mark out things like where the gas line goes from the valve to the house. Where the waterline does the same, and so on.

Double-check that all the utilities in the house are accounted for--telco, cable, etc.

Then, stop and look for things like yard lamps, garden power points, watering systems, those sorts of things. None of which are much fun to collect up in the cutting bar of a ditchwitch.

After you lay out the irrigation design on paper, since this is DIY, carefully lay it out full size on the yard.

Note that you really, really, really do not want to ditch inside of the drip-line of any tree you are keeping, this is your last opportunity to amend the design before you start that rental clock ticking on the trencher.

I am based out of Humble. Which subdivision are you in? I am all for DIY work as long as you take the time to properly research all aspects of an install. Call me at 281-380-1059 or email me sedmonds08@gmail, if you have any questions or issues.

Hire some help digging. Just sayin.

highly recommend a trencher from your local Lowes or Home Depot rental center.

Texas clays suck, what took a full weekend to complete with two "DYI'ers," I did in a single day with a trencher.

We could have trenched the whole yard per our plans in a single day compared to the backbreaking work of digging the first weekend.

Beware of the weather, I spent considerable time "bailing" my trench with a SOLO Cup just because I was eager to trench it all in one day without checking the rain chances. Laying the pipe was easy, but only after I had drained the trench.

To minimize the regrowth of the sod, I did carefully cut it out before running the trencher down the pre-planned line.


[This message has been edited by thoftender (edited 2/28/2012 10:21p).]

[This message has been edited by thoftender (edited 2/28/2012 10:23p).]

One-Call will mark in your yard, no problem. You just send in an online request, note the areas that you will be working and in the next 10 days or so, anyone with utility interests inside of your property will come mark them.

I'm lucky in that my power, cable and phone all run through my backyard in the same general 3' wide area from the transformer and stubs to my house. Water runs a perfectly straight line from my meter to the side of my house.

Good luck! I'll be looking to tackle a semi-DIY lawn sprinkler install in the fall of this year. Rainbird has a design operation where you can pay $50 or so to have them design the system for you after you've (accurately) sketched out your yard and identified what you want irrigated. They'll even give you a listing of Rainbird materials to use.

check your city codes to see what type of backflow preventer you need and if a licensed plumber or irrigator has to tie into the meter

quote:

---

(will NOT be going under driveway/sidewalks)

---

Have to question this just in case. Is the shape of your yard such that you can tie in at one point and reach everything without going under a sidewalk?

Just making sure that you aren't planning on any sort of multiple tie in points (hose bibs,etc.)... because that would definitely not be the way to do it right.

Also, a good spot to get everything in one place at pretty good prices (at least on most things):
www.sprinklerwarehouse.com

[This message has been edited by Brad06ag (edited 3/1/2012 1:18p).]

i dont know about your city but in Fort Worth if the area is less than 5' wide, ie the turf b/w the curb and the sidewalk, it has to be drip. The same w/ beds. Some cities are using 4'. In my professional opinion side strip nozzles spray a precise 4x15 strip and don't understand why fw is going w/ 5'.

Thanks guy! End of month at work sucks so I just now had the time to catch up on the thread.

I will be renting a trencher along with a friend who will be doing his house the same weekend. In reference to the tie in points, I will be using the backyard bib for the back and side of the front that is narrow, and the other bib on the front for the front lawn (that leaves me an other bib free on the other side of the front of the house). I will be attaching a house connector to the bibs for the system that have a normal spout but also a drop pipe with a **** off valve that the PVC will connect to.

I'll look into Rainbird to get my zoning down.

Meant to be a thumbs up

I installed a system using Orbit a few years ago after getting tired if moving hoses. If you are connecting to the hose connections installed on your house, i think you will be disappointed. The flow will be restricted and may support only 1 large area sprinkler per valve. Check the flow and pressure before doing this. Do you have the option to have your water company install a separate meter that will be for yard only? Some cities will charge for water only which will save you a lot by not paying for sewer and other charges they add to your water bill. You may have to run some extra 1 inch pipe to get to the back, but you will be able to put more heads per string, put the heads farther apart because of the increased pressure and flow by coming directly off the main. The house bibs loose flow and pressure due to flowing through the house and using 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe rather than 1 inch pipe off the main. I have had very little problems with the gear driven heads and the fixed pattern heads. The impulse heads cover a larger area but are more trouble to keep working. They tend to stop rather than switching direction. Use 1 inch pipe for long runs, 3/4 inch for branches and 1/2 inch only for the direct tie to the head. Do not use the cheap head connections that come in 6 or 12 inch lengths that can be cut to length. These leak and I have had to replace most of them. Use PVC threaded connections. Be careful with your weedeater, it will destroy the top of the head. If in doubt about the coverage of an area, add the extra head. It's easier to cut back on the time than having a dead spot in the yard.

Try to connect to the main incoming connection to the house at least. A separate meter would be the best, but not absolutely necessary.

Don't be concerned about going under neath a sidewalk. you can make a simple boring tool out of a hose and pvc pipe to make a hole. If you're going to spend the time and effort to have a trencher and all the work to install, you might a well use best practices

Just as a full disclosure, my house has an existing sprinkler system installed off of house bibs from the previous owner. I can only run one main yard head at a time to get good pressure. Running 2 heads at once causes reduced pressure/throw. Originally it had manual valves and I've installed solenoid valves and run then back to a controller.

seeing how a hose bib installation really works, I would highly not recommend using that method.

I had Scott with Irrigatition Service come over yesterday and have decided to go with him instead. The price is not much more than DYI and this way I KNOW it's done right.

Ags, Ags, Ags. Do NOT tie onto a hose bib for your "diy" irrigation system.
1. Your flow & gpm will be extremely low and you will only be able to run a couple heads at a time. It is much better to tie onto the water service (try to get as close to the meter as possible) whether it is a 3/4" or 1" service.
2. The reason we are licensed irrigators is because we install back flow preventers which prevent chemicals or toxins from entering the public water supply in case of a back siphon. If you don't have a back flow device on that hose bib there is a chance that contaminated water could back siphon into your house.
3. Its not professional, it won't last long and when it comes time to sell your house the vast majority of buyers & inspectors will point that out and ask to have a real system installed or ask for the additional money to have it properly installed.

spend the extra money and have it done right

I recommend Scott at Irrigation Service Co. Great job and great service after the install. Price was right as well.

Cody
Fightin Texas Aggie c/o 04

DIYers, you can put one in but the state of texas requires you to get a plan drawn by a licensed irrigator and then you submit it to the city for a permit. A backflow device will need to be installed and tested by a certified backflow inspector. Call the city you live in before you begin one of these projects. It carries a fairly large fine.

Here is a link to TCEQ's page with information on irrigation licensing:
http://www.tceq.texas.gov/licensing/irrigation/landscape.html
You can also remember this shorter version: http://wwww.tceq.texas.gov/goto/lawn which redirects to the 1st link.

As was mentioned in the thread linked above, the new state law makes it a Class C Misdemeanor to install irrigation systems without having the proper licensing, *UNLESS* you are a homeowner installing your own irrigation system on your own property.

Also, here is information from the Q&A for local governments PDF on the above-linked TCEQ page:

quote:

---

A homeowner is not required to be licensed in order to install a landscape irrigation system if the person is performing irrigation work at that person’s home. A homeowner must meet all of the local requirements such as backflow devices or freeze sensors as part of the installation of their irrigation system. The TCEQ Landscaping Irrigation rules require a homeowner to install an irrigation system that meets the standards for spacing, water pressure, must not spray water over impervious materials, install a rain or moisture shut-off device (or other technology) and install an isolation valve. The Public Drinking Water rules also require an appropriate backflow prevention device. A homeowner is not required to prepare a plan for the irrigation system.

---

Hope that helps! In College Station, you will need to have a certified Backflow Prevention Assembly Tester (BPAT) install and test your backflow preventer. This is an addtional certification that many Licensed Irrigators and Plumbers have.

Many suburban neighborhoods such as the one the OP lives in, are unincorporated. While all proper design and backflow guidelines should be followed, a permit is not required as there is no one to pull a permit from.

http://texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=1627115&forum_id=61

Here is what I did. It's not a below ground system, but a rigged water house type setup.

It works for my purposes and I've been able to hide the hoses in the mulched flower beds.

I have back flow preventers at the hose bibs for the hose lines I attach fertilizer or chemical sprays too. The sprinkler heads do not have back flow preventers as there is nothing to flow back other than the clean water that went in.

Scott and his crew installled the sprinkler system on Friday and I couldn't be happier! Very quick work and they were able to minimize the amount of damage to the yard.






Ok Scott, good enough review for a half refund?? :P

Resurrecting this thread because it answered a lot of questions for me on the legality of installing my own irrigation system DIY.

Do the laws for homeowner exemption as laid out in 1903.002 extend to backflow preventers as well? My city requirements state that a backflow preventer must be installed by a licensed irrigator, but the definition for "irrigation system" does not include that verbiage in Texas Public Law.

Quote:

---

Irrigation system" means an assembly of component parts permanently installed for the controlled distribution and conservation of water to irrigate landscape vegetation, reduce dust, or control erosion. The term does not include a system used on or by an agricultural operation as defined by Section 251.002 (Definitions), Agriculture Code.

---

It would seem to me that an assembly of component parts includes a backflow preventer, but I'm not sure.