Is there an embarrassing golf questions thread yet?

9,203 Views | 61 Replies | Last: 6 mo ago by MW03
MW03
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AG


So I've never bought a wedge before. Ever. I am using the same one that I inherited way back when I was given my first hand-me-down set. Like 25 years ago.

I was at a golf simulator the other day talking with a tour pro, and we started talking about how to get spin on wedge shots. She asked me about my wedge and how long I had it. When I answered, she laughed. When she realized I was serious, she leaned in like she was about to tell me that my fly was down and kind of said under her breath, "Normally, the answer to a problem on the course is not to go and buy a new club. I'm telling you the answer is to go and buy a new club." I asked her how often you should replace your wedges, and she said every 50-60 rounds at least.

So I started looking at buying a couple of new wedges, and I immediately realized I didn't know anything about wedges. So I went and learned about bounce, went back to buy a wedge, and then realized I didn't know anything about grind.

So I guess my question is this... how do you pick out a wedge?

Obi Wan Ginobili
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This isn't an embarrassing question. Most people over 10+ handicap don't know what they are buying.

Short answer:

It's rudimentary, but Google Titleist Vokey wedge selector. It will ask you questions and make recommendations. It's pretty accurate.

Long Answer:

Wedges have 3 main compnents that matter. Loft, bounce, and grind.

Loft is the degree number on the club. Same concept as your irons.

Bounce (the smaller number on the wedge) is the amount of material on the bottom of the club. Less bounce is for when you want the club to dig into the turf. More bounce will help prevent chunks by "bouncing" off the turf. Basically a flatter bottom club. Typically, better players play less bounce as they have more control over club interaction with the ground and can adjust the club when needed. Bounce also comes into play based on conditions. If you play a goat track that is hard pan, you want less bounce. Too much bounce on tight lies means the club will hit the ground, come up, and you'll blade everything.

Grind is the shape of the leading edge. More curve is for people who want to be more creative and shape shots. Less curve means you're less likely to hit the ground wrong. Again, better players can adjust and use different wedges.

If you're above 15+ handicap, Google each brand and see which wedges are the most forgiving. Also, there should typically be 4-5* difference with all your irons and wedges.
MW03
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I appreciate the response!

I probably reach outside myself and try flop shots and the like too often, but I actually enjoy having fun around the green. I just have a hell of a time getting shots to stop or - heaven help us - spin back. I am sure a combination of cheap, hard balls hit with grooveless wedges doesn't help much. I feel like I leave 10+ shots on the course putting because my shots are always running out and away, even when I feel like I hit them well.

I definitely "swoop" my chips and it's not a very steep angled shot. I also play a lot of cheaper courses with hard pans and traps. My pitching wedge is 43* and the approach wedge is 49*. It seems like I need a 54* and a 58*.

Obi Wan Ginobili
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MW03 said:

I appreciate the response!

I probably reach outside myself and try flop shots and the like too often, but I actually enjoy having fun around the green. I just have a hell of a time getting shots to stop or - heaven help us - spin back. I am sure a combination of cheap, hard balls hit with grooveless wedges doesn't help much. I feel like I leave 10+ shots on the course putting because my shots are always running out and away, even when I feel like I hit them well.

I definitely "swoop" my chips and it's not a very steep angled shot. I also play a lot of cheaper courses with hard pans and traps. My pitching wedge is 43* and the approach wedge is 49*. It seems like I need a 54* and a 58*.




Everyone hates hearing it, but 1-2 lessons just on chipping will likely save you 5 strokes a round.

Also, spinning wedge back requires speed and you can't get enough speed on most shots inside 50 yards. Ironically, stopping a wedge on a dime gets harder the closer you get to the green.
Milwaukees Best Light
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AG
Obi Wan Ginobili said:

This isn't an embarrassing question. Most people over 10+ handicap don't know what they are buying.

Short answer:

It's rudimentary, but Google Titleist Vokey wedge selector. It will ask you questions and make recommendations. It's pretty accurate.

Long Answer:

Wedges have 3 main compnents that matter. Loft, bounce, and grind.

Loft is the degree number on the club. Same concept as your irons.

Bounce (the smaller number on the wedge) is the amount of material on the bottom of the club. Less bounce is for when you want the club to dig into the turf. More bounce will help prevent chunks by "bouncing" off the turf. Basically a flatter bottom club. Typically, better players play less bounce as they have more control over club interaction with the ground and can adjust the club when needed. Bounce also comes into play based on conditions. If you play a goat track that is hard pan, you want less bounce. Too much bounce on tight lies means the club will hit the ground, come up, and you'll blade everything.

Grind is the shape of the leading edge. More curve is for people who want to be more creative and shape shots. Less curve means you're less likely to hit the ground wrong. Again, better players can adjust and use different wedges.

If you're above 15+ handicap, Google each brand and see which wedges are the most forgiving. Also, there should typically be 4-5* difference with all your irons and wedges.

Thanks for this. Very helpful. Probably going to cost me some money, but I was due to spend some soon anyway.
MW03
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AG
For the record, this is what I'm used to.





AgfromHOU
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Does the shoe game match the golf game?
Duckhook
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FWIW, that's not a bad looking wedge. Face/grooves don't look that worn to me.
powerbelly
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It sounds like she is trying to sell you a wedge. The spin difference between a worn wedge and new is about 10-15%.

Chipotlemonger
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powerbelly said:

It sounds like she is trying to sell you a wedge. The spin difference between a worn wedge and new is about 10-15%.


Yea I'm not sure there's a point in replacing a wedge after 50 rounds as OP was told for most of us layman golfers.
mavsfan4ever
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Definitely not after 50 rounds. I don't know anyone who does that. But there's a middle ground somewhere between 50 rounds and 25 years where it makes sense to replace them.
MW03
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Simulator was probably the wrong term. I've been trying to meet with various pros about taking lessons with them, and there wasn't an equipment sales component to it. Just straight up lessons.

I actually don't buy a lot of new golf stuff. I bought my first set of new irons in about 2012 and I just replaced those this year. I'm still slinging an old TaylorMade R11 that I bought used about 10 years ago as well. I have been eyeballing the new ones every time i'm at the store though. Maybe I just have the itch for new stuff...

Regardless, you guys are missing the point. I have it on good authority that I need to buy something new for golf. Whether I actually need it is beside the point!

CrockerAg98
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How about a putter? Is yours toe balanced? Face balanced? I found that right there is good for somewhere between 0-12 strokes a round!

Then, of course, does your golf ball compression match your swing speed?

(These are things I spend wayyyyy too much time on as a 22 handicap)
MW03
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CrockerAg98 said:

How about a putter? Is yours toe balanced? Face balanced? I found that right there is good for somewhere between 0-12 strokes a round!

Then, of course, does your golf ball compression match your swing speed?

(These are things I spend wayyyyy too much time on as a 22 handicap)

You and me both. I enjoy getting fixated on a thing and then getting way too far into the weeds.

Consequently, I can tell you this summer I moved from a face-balanced mallet style putter I'd had for over a decade to a 1/4 toe hang large blade putter to accommodate the slight arc in my stroke.
Texmid
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Wow! If I replaced my wedges after 50-60 rounds I would be buying wedges at least twice a year. That makes zero sense. My current wedges are at least 5 years old and I can get plenty of spin on them.

There is a lot that goes into stopping a wedge shot around the green. The green itself plays a pretty big role. The most important thing to me is knowing what it is going to do when it hits the green. Consistency is key. Some guys in my group get no spin and can consistently put the ball near the pin because they know what it will do when it hits the green.
EliteElectric
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Texmid said:

Wow! If I replaced my wedges after 50-60 rounds I would be buying wedges at least twice a year. That makes zero sense. My current wedges are at least 5 years old and I can get plenty of spin on them.

There is a lot that goes into stopping a wedge shot around the green. The green itself plays a pretty big role. The most important thing to me is knowing what it is going to do when it hits the green. Consistency is key. Some guys in my group get no spin and can consistently put the ball near the pin because they know what it will do when it hits the green.
This^^^

my Vokeys are old as the hills and I can still spin them a ton, sounds like a salesman was trying to sell
Duckhook
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EliteElectric said:

Texmid said:

Wow! If I replaced my wedges after 50-60 rounds I would be buying wedges at least twice a year. That makes zero sense. My current wedges are at least 5 years old and I can get plenty of spin on them.

There is a lot that goes into stopping a wedge shot around the green. The green itself plays a pretty big role. The most important thing to me is knowing what it is going to do when it hits the green. Consistency is key. Some guys in my group get no spin and can consistently put the ball near the pin because they know what it will do when it hits the green.
This^^^

my Vokeys are old as the hills and I can still spin them a ton, sounds like a salesman was trying to sell

All of this is the same for me. I'm still using a couple of old TaylorMade RAC's. I've tried a lot of other wedges but keep coming back to these. Head shape, bounce, weight etc. just all work for me.
G Martin 87
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It is not necessary at all to be able to "spin the ball back" on any shot. The pros can do that, but they're professionals with more athletic ability, better swing mechanics, and more time to practice than any of us have. Get a new SW with bounce appropriate for the course conditions you play in most often, and then pick a single brand and model of ball to play 100% of the time. I play a 58 degree Cleveland CBX with 10 degrees of bounce and Titleist TruFeels because that's what works for me. I've had this wedge for about 3-4 years and way more than 50 rounds. I don't plan on replacing it any time soon.
Shelton98
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Duckhook said:

EliteElectric said:

Texmid said:

Wow! If I replaced my wedges after 50-60 rounds I would be buying wedges at least twice a year. That makes zero sense. My current wedges are at least 5 years old and I can get plenty of spin on them.

There is a lot that goes into stopping a wedge shot around the green. The green itself plays a pretty big role. The most important thing to me is knowing what it is going to do when it hits the green. Consistency is key. Some guys in my group get no spin and can consistently put the ball near the pin because they know what it will do when it hits the green.
This^^^

my Vokeys are old as the hills and I can still spin them a ton, sounds like a salesman was trying to sell

All of this is the same for me. I'm still using a couple of old TaylorMade RAC's. I've tried a lot of other wedges but keep coming back to these. Head shape, bounce, weight etc. just all work for me.
Me too. My RAC 52* is my favorite club in my bag. I had the 56* but gave it to my son who needed a SW.
Bad Poster
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Texmid said:

Wow! If I replaced my wedges after 50-60 rounds I would be buying wedges at least twice a year. That makes zero sense. My current wedges are at least 5 years old and I can get plenty of spin on them.

There is a lot that goes into stopping a wedge shot around the green. The green itself plays a pretty big role. The most important thing to me is knowing what it is going to do when it hits the green. Consistency is key. Some guys in my group get no spin and can consistently put the ball near the pin because they know what it will do when it hits the green.


Congrats on the se… I mean Golf.
aggiedadofpanda
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Obi Wan Ginobili said:

This isn't an embarrassing question. Most people over 10+ handicap don't know what they are buying.

Short answer:

It's rudimentary, but Google Titleist Vokey wedge selector. It will ask you questions and make recommendations. It's pretty accurate.

Long Answer:

Wedges have 3 main compnents that matter. Loft, bounce, and grind.

Loft is the degree number on the club. Same concept as your irons.

Bounce (the smaller number on the wedge) is the amount of material on the bottom of the club. Less bounce is for when you want the club to dig into the turf. More bounce will help prevent chunks by "bouncing" off the turf. Basically a flatter bottom club. Typically, better players play less bounce as they have more control over club interaction with the ground and can adjust the club when needed. Bounce also comes into play based on conditions. If you play a goat track that is hard pan, you want less bounce. Too much bounce on tight lies means the club will hit the ground, come up, and you'll blade everything.

Grind is the shape of the leading edge. More curve is for people who want to be more creative and shape shots. Less curve means you're less likely to hit the ground wrong. Again, better players can adjust and use different wedges.

If you're above 15+ handicap, Google each brand and see which wedges are the most forgiving. Also, there should typically be 4-5* difference with all your irons and wedges.

This is maybe the most thoughtful response I've seen on any Texags forum in months. Well done!
AggieDruggist89
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AG
Don't know about stupid question but that's a stupid **** answer to change wedges every 50 rounds. It takes more than 50 rounds to get used to and fully trust any club... For me.

My PW, GW, and SW are 22 years old and a part of the iron set. I have them dialed in and I'm not swapping them out. I've used a Ping Eye II + No + LW forever until last year.

Spin rate is not the primary importance for me for a wedge. Loft, lie, forgiveness, bounce and grind are. And none of those change in 50 rounds.

More often than not, too much spin around the green ends up further away from the hole.
EMY92
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Aren't some pros still using the old Ping Eye 2's? Weren't they grandfathered in after the rules change for the grooves?
AggieDruggist89
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EMY92 said:

Aren't some pros still using the old Ping Eye 2's? Weren't they grandfathered in after the rules change for the grooves?


No.

Ping did release ping eye 2 XG which has legal grooves.

Original eye2 irons are illegal for the pros and become illegal for all usga events for amateurs in 2024.
David_Puddy
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Funny running into the shoe guru on the Golf board. MW, we need to go play a round sometime. We can both flex our Jordan golf shoes
MW03
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David_Puddy said:

Funny running into the shoe guru on the Gold board. MW, we need to go play a round sometime. We can both flex our Jordan golf shoes

Ha! Look good on the course, play... well, play terrible on the course.
MW03
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MW03 said:

David_Puddy said:

Funny running into the shoe guru on the Gold board. MW, we need to go play a round sometime. We can both flex our Jordan golf shoes

Ha! Look good on the course, play... well, play terrible on the course.

Speaking of, Rhoback is running 20% sitewide for Black Friday with the code "early"
Obi Wan Ginobili
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aggiedadofpanda said:

Obi Wan Ginobili said:

This isn't an embarrassing question. Most people over 10+ handicap don't know what they are buying.

Short answer:

It's rudimentary, but Google Titleist Vokey wedge selector. It will ask you questions and make recommendations. It's pretty accurate.

Long Answer:

Wedges have 3 main compnents that matter. Loft, bounce, and grind.

Loft is the degree number on the club. Same concept as your irons.

Bounce (the smaller number on the wedge) is the amount of material on the bottom of the club. Less bounce is for when you want the club to dig into the turf. More bounce will help prevent chunks by "bouncing" off the turf. Basically a flatter bottom club. Typically, better players play less bounce as they have more control over club interaction with the ground and can adjust the club when needed. Bounce also comes into play based on conditions. If you play a goat track that is hard pan, you want less bounce. Too much bounce on tight lies means the club will hit the ground, come up, and you'll blade everything.

Grind is the shape of the leading edge. More curve is for people who want to be more creative and shape shots. Less curve means you're less likely to hit the ground wrong. Again, better players can adjust and use different wedges.

If you're above 15+ handicap, Google each brand and see which wedges are the most forgiving. Also, there should typically be 4-5* difference with all your irons and wedges.

This is maybe the most thoughtful response I've seen on any Texags forum in months. Well done!


I love golf
Tony Franklins Other Shoe
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AG
Obi Wan Ginobili said:

aggiedadofpanda said:

Obi Wan Ginobili said:

This isn't an embarrassing question. Most people over 10+ handicap don't know what they are buying.

Short answer:

It's rudimentary, but Google Titleist Vokey wedge selector. It will ask you questions and make recommendations. It's pretty accurate.

Long Answer:

Wedges have 3 main compnents that matter. Loft, bounce, and grind.

Loft is the degree number on the club. Same concept as your irons.

Bounce (the smaller number on the wedge) is the amount of material on the bottom of the club. Less bounce is for when you want the club to dig into the turf. More bounce will help prevent chunks by "bouncing" off the turf. Basically a flatter bottom club. Typically, better players play less bounce as they have more control over club interaction with the ground and can adjust the club when needed. Bounce also comes into play based on conditions. If you play a goat track that is hard pan, you want less bounce. Too much bounce on tight lies means the club will hit the ground, come up, and you'll blade everything.

Grind is the shape of the leading edge. More curve is for people who want to be more creative and shape shots. Less curve means you're less likely to hit the ground wrong. Again, better players can adjust and use different wedges.

If you're above 15+ handicap, Google each brand and see which wedges are the most forgiving. Also, there should typically be 4-5* difference with all your irons and wedges.

This is maybe the most thoughtful response I've seen on any Texags forum in months. Well done!


I love golf
Damn, I never imagined I would hear "thoughtful" coming into anything related to you.

Person Not Capable of Pregnancy
Pahdz
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Of course, my wife's grandpa gave us his Ping Eye 2's for my 12 year old daughter (I promise you he didn't know of this rule). Should I care if she learns to play on them knowing they're no longer legal (I actually didn't know they were banned either).
Chipotlemonger
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I wouldn't care. Whatever works to fuel the passion and keep one interested is good to me.
AggieDruggist89
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Pahdz said:

Of course, my wife's grandpa gave us his Ping Eye 2's for my 12 year old daughter (I promise you he didn't know of this rule). Should I care if she learns to play on them knowing they're no longer legal (I actually didn't know they were banned either).


I wouldn't worry about. If your daughter develops a mad passion for golf and starts competing, then you can update her clubs then.
DannyDuberstein
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Not all Ping Eye 2's are non-conforming. If you see a small + in the cavity on the back of the clubhead toward the toe, they are legal. It's fairly small and subtle, so you have to look for it.
DannyDuberstein
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AG

AggieDruggist89
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From Ping website.

Quote:

Eye2+ iron and wedges (these clubs were made beginning in early 1990, and each has U grooves):
Conform until at least 2024 at nearly all non-professional events played under the R&A and/or the USGA Rules of Golf;

Do not conform at professional tour events or any other events that have adopted the 2010 Condition of Competition; and

Will not conform at any national amateur championships conducted by the USGA and/or the R&A held after 2013.
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/v8jYXMc3/Xy66wFs.png[/img]
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