Croatia- Dalmatian Coast

6,000 Views | 50 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by Captain Winky
DTP02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I posted a while back seeking advice for taking teen boys to Europe. We now have our flights to Europe and within Europe booked, so I'm looking to drill down on the Croatia leg of the trip.

We are flying into Dubrovnik and out from Split, with 6 nights to spend in Croatia total before heading to Italy and then Spain. Would have preferred a full week in Croatia but the intra-Europe flight schedule didn't cooperate, which means we are having to make some tough decisions on what to include.

I think I'm going to have to rule out a day trip to Plitvice, unfortunately, as we just don't have enough time. Looks really cool, as does one of the other parks which is a little closer, so I'm a little bummed about that.

Still trying to decide whether I want to do just two nights in Dubrovnik or 3. 2 nights would really only end up being 36 hours or so given our evening arrival time and ferry schedules out. And I'd like to do this boat outing where they pull oysters out of the bay and you eat them right on the boat, which takes a half day in itself.

After leaving Dubrovnik I think I want to just base out of one island so as to limit the bag drags, and possibly do a day trip or two from there. If we had an extra day I'd definitely do two islands, but doing only two nights at each stop with some travel in between, all after a long flight, I think would keep us from ever relaxing and unwinding.

So if we go that route it means only one out of Korcula, Hvar, or Vis make the cut as our island base, with the possibility of a day trip or stop in at another on the way.

We want to swim, snorkel, do a little hiking, see sights, and eat and drink well. And we want to soak in some of the local culture and not just the highest-density tourist spots.

My wife is concerned that Hvar is going to end up being too much of a party and jet set type experience and feel overwhelmingly touristy without any local culture. It's a bigger island, so I know we can get away from that, to some extent, but I don't know if it makes sense to go to Hvar and not stay in Hvar town, which means we can't really get too far away from it without some effort.

Korcula is a little further from our exit point in Split, and I'm a little worried that if we spend as many as 4 nights there we might get a little bored. I do like that Korcula is pretty big on wine and wine culture.

And Vis has a couple of cool spots like the Blue Cave I'd like to see, but I haven't looked into it quite as much as the other two.

Any insight into Dubrovnik or picking an island is appreciated. And any recommendations for lodging, dining, or activities (including snorkeling spots or lesser known beaches) would be great as well.
Potcake
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Wife and I did a catamaran trip in 2019. We hit Vis, Hvar, and Solta. Vis was the first island and the village was pretty cool, I think a Mamma Mia movie was filmed there. We also went SUP boarding in the old submarine base where a couple of Russian dudes jumped off and tried to knock us off, they failed.

We stayed in two marinas on Hvar, Vrboska and Stari Grad, and moored one night in Milna. We took a taxi to Hvar town one day from Milna and toured the fort and walked around town a bit. It was a little too crowded and pretentious for us. We did spend half a day at a beach with a bunch of bars on the island just across from Hvar town. There are other draws to the island than just Hvar town. We walked to dinner one night in Jelsa from the Vrboska marina. Lot's of restaurants, bars, and entertainment. But our favorite place on the island was Stari Grad. Such a beautiful town with a lot of history. We loved Croatia.

Eta: Our best meal if trip was at Bokeria within the Diocletian's Palace in Split.
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I would do two days in Dubrovnik. It was our least favorite town in Croatia. Walk the walls (early in the day), take the cable car, and the days trip you want to do, and you are set. 46 hours should be plenty.
On Hvar, we spent a week in Stari Grad. It was great for us, but probably too quiet for teens.
We didn't go to Korkula or Vis, but I think I would suggest Vis. Korkula is famous for the walled main city, so basically a small Dubrovnik.
In Split, I would eat at buffet fife, and there is a microbrewery called Mandrill that was about 7 min walk from the palace that was fun.
And I would do everything I could to get to Plitvice. It is amazing
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
In planning stages now for 2022 trip. Keep the information coming please.
DTP02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
90 bull said:

I would do two days in Dubrovnik. It was our least favorite town in Croatia. Walk the walls (early in the day), take the cable car, and the days trip you want to do, and you are set. 46 hours should be plenty.
On Hvar, we spent a week in Stari Grad. It was great for us, but probably too quiet for teens.
We didn't go to Korkula or Vis, but I think I would suggest Vis. Korkula is famous for the walled main city, so basically a small Dubrovnik.
In Split, I would eat at buffet fife, and there is a microbrewery called Mandrill that was about 7 min walk from the palace that was fun.
And I would do everything I could to get to Plitvice. It is amazing


How did you get around on Hvar? I'm looking into scooter rentals.

I hear you re Plitvice, but in addition to the time limitations I also had some concerns about going in mid to late July. Apparently that's when the falls aren't flowing nearly as heavily, and the crowds are at their peak.
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
The week in Stari Grad was a chill out week during a longer trip, so we just took the bus between Hvar and Stari Grad. This isn't the quickest way to travel. For just a few days, the scooter is a great option. This also depends on which ferry to take to go to Split (assuming that is where you go next). There is a ferry that goes from Stari Grad as well as Hvar Town to Split.
OilManAg91
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I just did your exact itinerary the 1st week in June but in reverse as I went Split to Dubrovnik. We spent 3 nights in Hvar, 2 nights in Korcula and 3 nights in Dubrovnik. I had been to Split previously and toured Diocletian's palace, so we just spent the afternoon in Split this time eating lunch while we waited on the ferry to Hvar. My thoughts on an itinerary are:

Dubrovnik is worth 2 full days. Eating dinner at the Panorama Restaurant is great, make reservations now to get a table on the 1st row of the balcony: https://www.nautikarestaurants.com/panorama-restaurant-bar/ . Definitely stay within the walls so you get the feel for the old town. There are lots of pensions and AirBnb's, we stayed at Dubrovnik Gardens Apartments and really liked it http://www.dubrovnikgardens.com/ . Definitely walk the wall in the evening when it is cooler, and go swimming right outside the wall next to the harbor or walk over to Plaza Banje. Pizzeria Oliva is fantastic, and there are lots of great cafes and restaurants where you sit outside and enjoy the atmosphere.

Korcula is a mini Dubrovnik, but it is still unique and very cool and definitely worth a visit. We stayed 2 nights and it was a good amount of time, but you could get away with 1 night if you are short on time. It is an easy ferry trip from Dubrovnik, a little over 1.5 hrs if I remember correctly and I believe most ferries stop there anyway on the way to Hvar. If you want to only spend a day, you can take the morning ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula, eat lunch, see the old town and then take the afternoon ferry from Korcula to Hvar (about 1.5 hrs). However if you don't stay the night then you will miss La'Banya beach club about a 5 min drive west of town which has a great beach, beautiful views, really great restaurant and beach bar, very nice facility and great place to hang out for the afternoon check it out on Google earth. We rented a car for the day and it was cheap and pretty easy, but a taxi would work as well. We stayed at Hotel Fabris right outside the city walls, it has small rooms but was nice. https://thefabris.com/ Only potential issue is there is a caf block away that supposedly stays open late and has loud live music but they were not doing that when we were there in early June. Also the Aminess Korcula Heritage Hotel was very nice, but we didn't stay there https://www.aminess.com/en/aminess-korcula-heritage-hotel

Hvar is a really great place. It is very beautiful with lots to do. It has a great culture, local feel and it is not pretentious. I think the jet setting, party vibe is oversold especially during Covid when there are no cruise ships and tourism is down. We stayed 3 nights at Hotel Park Hvar which is really pretty looking out over the water, lots of flowers and nice courtyard. There breakfast patio in their garden is really great, it feels like the Amalfi coast with the views and flowers. And really great breakfast buffet. https://www.hotelparkhvar.com/home/index But there are tons of places to stay all within a very short walk from the ferry dock. The Hula Hula beach club is great, but there are many places to hang out and swim in crystal clear water. Also many great restaurants in side alleys with great ambiance. We rented a car for an afternoon and drove to Stari Grad (which is ok but isn't as pretty as Hvar) and Jelsa just to see some of the island. It was easy to rent a car from http://www.dinorenthvar.com/ , a short walk from the harbor and not expensive. A really neat place we found was Konoba Arsenol https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g659912-d8567827-Reviews-Konoba_Arsenol-Hvar_Island_Split_Dalmatia_County_Dalmatia.html Great restaurant and you can hang out and swim. Very local place but great quality food and nice restaurant owners. Also in Hvar it is very easy to take short water taxis to other islands to spend the day on the beach, or rent your own boat. You could stay for weeks and not run out of things to do.

Vis & Plitvice didn't make it this trip but definitely want to on the next one.
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Excellent stuff! Keep it coming!
fire09
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Was there 3 weeks ago.

2 nights in Dubrovnik is plenty. I would skip staying in old town and pick a resort on the water on the NW side of town.

Stari Grad was awesome, and probably the most laid back spot we went to. Hvar was awesome. The life is coming back there. It is a party city but there's plenty to do there without stepping foot in a club. We rented a boat out of there and spent a full day touring the islands between Stari Grad and Vis. I wouldn't spend more than a few hours in Vis. Spend a day in Split and check out the old town.

Let me known if you want lodging recommendations or if you have specific questions in each town. Happy to help.
scd88
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Straight Talk said:

In planning stages now for 2022 trip. Keep the information coming please.


Same. I'm thinking about this for my family of 5.
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I will say this-we spent 9 weeks in Croatia in 2017, and Zadar was one of our favorite places. Very underrated
Sean Mercer
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Am I the only one who thinks that taking two teenage boys to Croatia is like taking a friend (who is on Weight Watchers) to the Cheesecake Factory?

Potcake
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Supposedly Tito's house on Vis

Submarine pen on Vis

Hvar Town harbor from fort

Bay in Milna

Swimming beach on west end of Split

Cliff jumping near swimming beach
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Amazing. Tell me more about Zadar!
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Love Zadar. It has several cool things about it. It's old city is built on a peninsula with the Venetian walls and has all the bars, restaurants, etc. a Roman forum that is right by the sea on the boardwalk that is completely accessible. Always see kids playing and climbing on 2 Millennium old marble stones from the forum. Great sunsets from the boardwalk. The two neatest things are the sea organ and the greeting to the sun. The sea organ is amazing. They put pipes under the boardwalk, and the tides create organ sounds. Go to YouTube and put in zadar sea organ. It is just incredible to watch the sunset over the barrier island and hear music from the sea tides. Also great Italian food .
DTP02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
We started the Croatia leg of our trip yesterday and have loved Dubrovnik. We had a great dinner at Konoba Jezuite after getting settled in last night, near the top of the Jesuit Stairs ("the other Spanish steps", also more recently known as the steps of shame of GOT fame). Cuttlefish Risotto and the Lamb were both very good, and the atmosphere was great in an old Jesuit school courtyard. Jumped off the rocks and went for a swim at Buza Bar 2 in the morning, thru a doorway in the old town walls not far from our place and the restaurant.

Rented a boat (and captain, you can't take out a motorboat by yourself unless you have Croatian license apparently) for a half day earlier today to check out the Elaphite Islands. The Blue Cave on Kolocep was very cool, and there was a group of three swim-in small chasms/cantons which were also worth the stop. The visibility while snorkeling was incredible in the Adriatic. We took the boat to Lopud next and hung out at the soft sand beach and just chilled and had some drinks and a decent lunch and good cocktails at the beach bar and grill there before heading back. Great excursion.

Dinner at Panorama on top of the mountain overlooking the Dubrovnik old town was fantastic tonight. Not just the incredible view but the food was very good as well. Loved the Octopus salad, Sea Bass and Dubrovnik Cutlet. Sampled and liked the local sparkling, white, and red.

Stumbled into a rooftop basketball court, after taking the Gondola back down, near Buza Gate, where our boys showed some Croatian kids how to ball.

Gelato, an after dinner drink, and it's been a heckuva full day.

Heading to Hvar tomorrow afternoon after some more time in Dubrovnik and are looking for restaurant ideas in Hvar and also some outing ideas away from Hvar town where we can find some more out of the way beaches and lunch options during the day.
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Zukova beach by Stari Grad has beautiful water, but the beach itself is rocky and not very nice. Dubovica beach is supposed to be pretty but we didn't go there
Potcake
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Look at Palmizana Island just across the channel from Hvar Town. Granted, we were on a catamaran, but there are warer taxis going over there from Hvar. There is a large bay where tons of boats moor and a lot of beach bars/lounges. The place we hung out was Laganini Lounge Bar and Fish House. It was pretty chill during the day but apparently it and the others get pretty rowdy at night.
ChoppinDs40
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Bro. You have to eat at Lady PiPi. Best restaurant in town.

For your islands, sounds like you're set but I would have done Hvar/Stari Grad and Mljet. Mljet is a National park island with some really cool stuff to see
fire09
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I can't remember the name, but there is a restaurant at the top of the cable car in Dubrovnik. You need to make reservations, one of the best views of the city and great food.

Also, you can rent a boat without a Croatian skipper license. We rented a 20 ft in Hvar for the day to explore. If you are not an experienced boater with ocean experience I do not recommend this.
DTP02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
The restaurant you are thinking of is Panorama, where we ate last night. The views and the meal were fantastic.

Whoever recommended I make reservations ASAP so we could have a front row table on the terrace gets a big thanks from me. Amazing view from the front row.
ChoppinDs40
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
On Hvar, go over to Stari Grad and out to the plain. There is a winery that sits on a UNESCO site (ancient greek). They do tastings with appetizers and also do dinners. Wine was awesome and $7 a bottle if you want to buy some. Family owned - 2,400 year old vineyard.

https://www.facebook.com/horahvar/

Also, while you're there, be sure to eat Peka, a very traditional Croatian dish. It takes a long time to cook so find a restaurant that does it and you have to order in advance.

When we did our yacht trip, our skipper called a place on Mljet and had it ready for our group. Awesome dinner if you like savory food. Think of it like a Croatian Pot roast, but better.

Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Please keep updating this post. I'm getting some great ideas for our 2022 trip!
scd88
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Straight Talk said:

Please keep updating this post. I'm getting some great ideas for our 2022 trip!


Same.
DTP02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
In Sevilla now after leaving Croatia (and Venice), but if I can make any recommendation for anyone thinking about going to Europe or just traveling in general this year it's this: DON'T WAIT!

CoVID and the response to it has obviously been an enormous tragedy, but a very small silver lining has been the benefits to those who like to travel. We've traveled much more in the last year than normal with several big trips in large part because we realized after going on our first trip last year how phenomenal it is to go somewhere with 10-40% of the normal crowd.

It makes all the difference in the world! Don't wait if you can help it. If you wait until everyone else is ready to travel, you will miss a (hopefully) once in a lifetime opportunity.
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Anyone else with tips to share? What about off the wall places, historical sights inland etc?
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Fattoria Il Poeta. Beautiful Agriturismo a few miles east of Florence. Check it out!
Sully Dog
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Sean Mercer said:

Am I the only one who thinks that taking two teenage boys to Croatia is like taking a friend (who is on Weight Watchers) to the Cheesecake Factory?


I didn't think it was that bad
Deplorable Neanderthal Clinger
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
90 bull said:

I will say this-we spent 9 weeks in Croatia in 2017, and Zadar was one of our favorite places. Very underrated
What time of the year did you spend there and was it good weather?
Topher17
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Straight Talk said:

90 bull said:

I will say this-we spent 9 weeks in Croatia in 2017, and Zadar was one of our favorite places. Very underrated
What time of the year did you spend there and was it good weather?

I am surprised to see all the Zadar love here. Did a big Croatia/BH trip in 2018 and Zadar was probably our group's least favorite place due to the cruise ships being docked there. The place was an absolute zoo. I imagine it would be a really neat place without the cruise crowds.
We loved Omis. Small town with great hiking and mountains that lead right into gorgeous beach. There is also rafting near by if you're looking for an activity. If you're going inland at all, Zagreb is a really neat city as well.
Overall Croatia is an incredible country and the people are great.
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
We were there for a week in September and a week in January. September is great weather and a great time to be in Croatia in general. January is not as good obviously.
Three things that stand out about Zadar
The sea organ is so unique
The sunsets over the barrier island are amazing
Seeing kids playing on the ruins of a Roman forum built by Augustus

If you go there, the day trip to Plitvice is a must do. Just go online to get the tickets ahead of time.

It is one of two Croatian areas we seriously have been considering moving to. The issue is trying to move to the EU is a lot of work
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
We avoided the cruise ships. Staying for a week it just is a really relaxing town.
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Anyone with current updates on Croatia trips?
Straight Talk
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Bringing this back to the top. Planning a September 2022 trip. Seems like you could start in the South and work North or the opposite. Any input on this would be appreciated. Also getting there. Where did you fly into. And of course your favorite places, especially out of the way, eclectic places.

Thanks
90 bull
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
We spent 9 weeks in Croatia and loved it. Plitvice is a must do in my opinion. What do you want to see? There are so many options on the coast
Page 1 of 2
 
×
subscribe Verify your student status
See Subscription Benefits
Trial only available to users who have never subscribed or participated in a previous trial.