Ireland on & off the beaten path

3,876 Views | 31 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by scd88
Catag94
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My wife and I are interested in a trip to Ireland. We think we want to rent a car and make our way around the country. Of course we want to hit the must see highlights but would like to also see some place where the locals look at us like we're lost, and experience off the beaten path Irish culture. We have never been to Ireland and would love all the advice we can get. Thanks.
Harry Stone
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I may be wrong, but when I was there I felt I experienced more of the Gaelic Irish culture on the western side, along the ring of kerry and dingle peninsula.
wildcat08
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We did a similar trip with another couple a few years ago, and it was a wonderful experience. We did what Harry Stone mentionedfocused on the southwestern quadrant of the country. I know we missed some stuff, but we just didn't have the time to do everything. We have a friend who is a travel agent, and she hooked us up with a BnB association. We essentially bought a coupon book, and picked our places to stay from there. Since we had no specific agenda, we were making reservations for each spot a day or two ahead, which gave us flexibility in the trip. Staying in the bed and breakfasts and eating in the pubs in the small towns gave us a chance to talk to the locals, and those interactions are some of my best memories from the trip.

I will add this. Driving over there can get you in some tight places. The roads are often really narrow. We bought insurance from the rental car company, and that's another decision I don't regret. We still ended up having to buy two tires (blew both of them in one well-disguised pothole). I wouldn't decide to not go because of the drivingjust be prepared for it, and you will be fine.
Harry Stone
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yes, definitely buy the insurance. most credit cards offer international rental car coverage except for like 3 countries, Ireland being one of them.
Catag94
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Thank you both. Very good sounding advice. We rented a car in Rome and drove from there throughout Italy and into Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. We like driving and having not schedule sometimes so I think we will do that. But, I'll head your advice on the insurance and the road conditions.
The western portion appeals to us greatly.
Is it possible to carry in Dublin and work clockwise sound the country in 2 weeks?
Is it possible/advisable to not even reverse a B&B until same day on your opinion?
wildcat08
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Catag94 said:


Is it possible to carry in Dublin and work clockwise sound the country in 2 weeks?
Is it possible/advisable to not even reverse a B&B until same day on your opinion?
We did the southwest quadrant in about a week, so I think you could do what you're talking about in two weeks. It's possible you could do reservations "day of" but I'm not sure it's advisable. I think we were doing ours a day or two ahead, and we never had any issues.
chico
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NW corner where they still speak Gaelic.
We hit up a gin distillery called Loch Measc, what a blast. Beautiful region up there and very isolated part of the world
90 bull
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We did this over three and a half weeks. Flew into Dublin, spent a week on a farm in the southeast, a week on the ring of Kerry, drove through Dingle and up to Galway area for a week. Beautiful country and I got used to driving there fairly quickly. Just go slow and enjoy it. I did make sure to get an automatic, since I didn't want the additional adjustment of trying to shift with the opposite hand. And yeah, the country roads can be tiny so go with the rental car on the tiny side.
EMY92
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Harry Stone said:

yes, definitely buy the insurance. most credit cards offer international rental car coverage except for like 3 countries, Ireland being one of them.
Some Mastercards cover the CDW in Ireland. Mine does.

Last year, I started in Dublin, spent 2 nights, then down to Cork with a couple of stops on the way.

I then hit Blarney Castle on my way to Killarney. I did the Beara Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, and Dingle Peninsula. The Lake Hotel in Killarney is in a gorgeous location just outside of Killarney. The view from my balcony was amazing (all rooms face that direction, rooms on only one side of the hall). I stayed in Caherisveen and was supposed to go on a boat to Skellig Michael, but it was canceled due to high winds. I ate at the best pizza place I've ever eaten at in Caherisveen. It was in a renovated old church, the walls were about 3 feet think made of stone.

Spent a night in Tralee, then on to County Claire. I spent several days here visiting family.

I visited Limerick and Galway. I think Galway would be a great stop for a couple, many street cafes, just a really nice place to visit.

In Dublin, the Davenport Hotel was a great choice for me, it is in the heart of town, but it's not right in the Temple Bar area, so it's quiet at night.

This year, I'm going Dublin, Belfast, along the coast to Derry, then hit the northwest coast back in the Republic of Ireland, Silgo, might stop to visit the other side of my family in Mayo, then Galway and Ennis to spend a couple of nights with family there.

I enjoy the natural beauty of the country, I like the small towns. Dublin was nice for two days, but that was enough for me. I greatly enjoyed the peninsulas in the southwest and hope the north coast is equal to that.
Seven Costanza
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Catag94 said:


Is it possible/advisable to not even reverse a B&B until same day on your opinion?
Absolutely. I would often not book a B&B until 20 minutes before I checked in. Had no problems whatsoever.

Tree Hugger
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We did a similar driving tour in 2015 and everywhere but Dublin and Galway, we just pulled into town and looked for a B&B and then walked in to see if we had rooms available. Two hostels in Doolin were booked, but every B&B always had room.
wangus12
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Basically just the entire west coast is perfect.

Climb Carrauntoohil in the southwest near Killarney. Take a boat out to the Aran Islands. Climb Croag Patrick overlooking Clew Bay. Try to stay in the smallest villages you can find. Its where you get the most realistic view of natural Ireland. Also carry a decent amount of cash. Cash is still king in Ireland











exitone
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The family and I went to Ireland a few summer ago. We rented a car and drove around for a week or two. It was great. I wrote about it / listed my itinerary here:

https://texags.com/forums/54/topics/2943447/replies/52227594
dcAg
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Ive been twice. Once I planned the trip through Tenon Tours that gives you endless B&Bs where you can stay depending on when and where you want to go. Figured I was less a B&B guy and more of a castle guy. We did a castle stay trip through Great Value Vacations.

First trip went to the hotspots from Connemara through Galway, Ring of Kerry, Ring of Dingle, Kilarney, through Waterford to Cork (would skip both) through Blarney (castle visit) to Dublin. Hit the touristy stuff and it was great.

Second trip was a bit more "rural". Stayed at Castles in Cavan, Roscommon, Donegal, Galway, Clifden, Meath (outside of Dublin). They were both different trips and both great. Slieve League is a must see as are the Cliffs of Moher. A lot of castles. Have to do the literary pub crawl in Dublin. I can give you a lot more detail if you have any questions.
jammer262
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I second the Northwest, we stayed at the castle in Clifden, it has the best pub at night it was great. As mentioned the Sky road is great upper and lower.

I had "full" coverage on the car, and still paid $900 for a front left tire and wheel. Wife hit a wall while avoiding a tractor. Full coverage covers everything but the front left wheel and tire. Would've been way cheaper to have went head on with it. Oh well lesson learned. Oh, and the traffic cameras will send you a ticket for 80 euro in the mail a month later (I was just going 5 kph over!). I paid mine, a coworker didn't and was not let into Germany the next time he went over until he cleared up his Irish traffic ticket, so don't speed.
Catag94
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All great advice. We drove in Italy (Rome to Venice and up from there into Austria, Germany, Switzerland and all the way back to Rome. I became familiar with the cameras (Sygic App helps a ton) nonetheless, I got a couple parking tickets and some experience with the traffic and small streets. I'm sure the country roads of Ireland will be a new but welcomed challenge.
It sounds like a great trip. I think I may plan to give it a little more than two weeks, maybe even three. Perhaps have a basic itinerary but leave the details bulk of it to spontaneity and just enjoy the culture. When we went a couple years ago, it was our first trip to Europe and, while it was well planned and went very well, it was ambitious because we wanted to see all we could. From that, I think we learned that we would like to spend a lot more time in one place and get the feel of what it's like to live there.

I appreciate the ideas and shared experience. Keep it coming. Thanks.
Punked Shank
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West and north Ireland for sure.

Try to stop in lahinch for lunch. It's right by the cliffs of moher and has a cool surf scene, so it has a hybrid Irish / beach town feel to it

In the north, Carrick-A-Rede bridge is definitely worth it it for you're already up there. Giants causeway is nearby too.

If you're doing clockwise from Dublin and don't head south, at least make it to The rock of cashel. Super cool castle
GCRanger
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I'm biased as my mom is from Donegal and I've been to Ireland 25+ times, and it's like a second home. So here it goes.


One day in Dublin on the way in or out is enough. Guinness, Temple Bar, Jameson, Teelings, hop on hop off bus.

Skip the south and hit the west and north.

Driving is definitely recommended over bus or train. Like others have said driving can be a challenge on the small back roads (single lane with a bus coming at you). Below is a driving tour that I've done in 4 days. We did it quick and just touched on a few places as I'd been to some before. You cold fly into Shannon and out of Dublin though that may cost more for flight and care rental. If you fly into Dublin and drive across it will take your 3-4 hours to get to Bunratty/Dingle. Take your time.

Bunratty
Dingle
Lahinch
Cliff of Moher
Galway
Westport
Carrick-on-Shannon
Lough Key
Boyle
Sligo
Mullaghmore
Donegal town
Killybegs
Aran Island
Buncrana
Port Rush
Bushmills
Belfast
Dublin

I spend most of my time around Sligo county. Here are some things to do while in the Sligo area:
- Strandhill beach, sand dunes (HUGE), surfing, golf, and The Strand pub,
- Glencar lake and waterfall
- Lough Key / Forest Park
- Carrick-on-Shannon boat tour on the Shannon river
- Hike up Knocknarea or Benbulbin
- Walk through town / pub crawl. Check out McGarrigles and Shoot the Crows. Both are favorites of mine. Connolly's is an old pub, 150+ years I think.
- Mullaghmore head and marina. Great scenery and sometimes offshore big wave surfing.
- Rosses point - Austie's or Harry's pubs. Golf course



My cousin does outdoor yoga, which may not be your thing, but they'll hike to tops of hills and mountains then do their yoga. This is in Sligo town area. https://www.yourwellbeingwarrior.com/eventscalendar/

Also have friends that run Northwest Adventure Tours. http://northwestadventuretours.ie/ They may have something that interests you.

Slieve League is definitely a place to stop. There are a couple neat towns to stop in. Killybegs is a neat fishing port that some times have the massive "factory" fishing ships in port. Ardara (Are-draw) is another nice sea side town.

Glenveagh park is cool. I haven't been in 20 years but it was always a neat place to go.

The ferry from Rathmullen to Buncrana is something different to break up the driving and see the countryside from the water.

Actually, I'll be there for three weeks in late June and July for my sisters wedding. When are y'all going?
dcAg
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Slieve League should be on the list.
Catag94
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That's awesome info. We are booked for something else this year so it will be 2021 before we go. Just trying to plan ahead. Thank you for the suggestions.
GSPag`
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I have not been to Slieve League in 20 years. And it is still very strong in my memory. Difficult to get there but well worth the effort.

I have been to Ireland several times. Galway and the Connemara is a great place to feel what I think is true Ireland.

But it is a little touristy now.

Spend some time there though. And then head north to Co Donegal. It is still very remote. Thing Marfa or Ft Davis and Marathon. You will see some folks visiting from other countries but mostly you will see the Irish taking holiday in Donegal. And Derry is just right there. Great beautiful old city with so much history.

I base out of Buncrana in Inishowen. But I love to travel over to GlenColmKill or Burtonsport.

But Killybegs and Donegal Town are also great small spots to visit.

Also Glenveigh National Park was owned by John Adair it is a very large park in the middle of Co Donegal. Mr. Adair was owner of the JA Ranch outside of Clarendon, Texas. Quite the tyrant in Ireland but a business partner to Col. Charles Goodnight in the Panhandle in the late 1800s.
wessimo
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Thanks for the tips! We are heading to Northwest Ireland and Northern Ireland in July for 6 days and are working on an itinerary. So far the list includes Giants Causeway, -A-rede, Bushmills Distillery, and the Derry walls.
dcAg
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Go to the Brazen Head pub in Ireland. Oldest pub in the country and just across the river from the Jameson Distillery (although they dont distill whiskey there any more). In Ireland they dont call it Gaelic they call it Irish. As in, "Do you speak Irish?"

Temple Bar area in Dublin is filled with pubs but typically attracts a younger crowd. Plenty of pubs in the Grafton Street area.

A tip or two...if you see something you think you may want to buy then buy it as you may not return to that location. If you see something that looks interesting then stop and check it out. We went to a handful of castles that wouldnt appear on any list that were fantastic.

If you make it to Slieve League there is a parking lot at the bottom of the hill. Dont park there and keep driving all the way to the top. If you dont you will spend hours hiking up and down.
GCRanger
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We are currently in Sligo for a month for sister's wedding last week and mother's 80th in two weeks.

Definitely travel through Donegal and Sligo if you can. Lots to see and do.

Rental car prices are through the roof. About $1200 to $2000 a week if you can find a car. We booked a couple months ago and got a VW Tiguan for $2000 for the month. Same car same dates two weeks ago was $10,000 and could only find a car at Knock Airport.

If you are flying into Dublin look at renting from Enterprise in Finglas. It will be much cheaper than airport rentals. Though they have limited opening hours, closed Sundays.

Wedding at Baleek Castle last week, hiked Knocknarea mountain Saturday, Going surfing, surf lessons, at Strandhill, Sligo today and tomorrow.
EMY92
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Wow! When I was there 3 years ago, I rented a car for 2 weeks and it was under $200 total.
wessimo
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Anything in particular we shouldn't miss in Donegal or Sligo area? I enjoy hikes but the kids (ages 9-13) are usually only good for 2-3 miles before the complaints start.

I was also shocked by the rental car prices but we were able to get normal prices using a corporate code (~$400 a week instead of ~$1500 a week). I'm concerned they won't actually give us the car for that so I reserved a backup with a different company just in case.
GCRanger
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The Knocknarea hike in Sligo is about 3 miles. Beautiful views but weather dependent.
My post above from a couple years ago details a lot of the stops.

There are tons of hikes all over the place. Hard to list them all.
wessimo
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Sliabh Liag pro tip - get there before 8am and you can drive up to the top, avoiding the pay lot, a steep uphill climb, and the crowds. There's a livestock gate that you have to open. If you arrive after the staff show up they likely won't let you drive up.

Same applies to Giant's Causeway; get there before 8 and you may be the only one there. Folks seem to get started late in this country.
wessimo
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Giant's Causeway




EMY92
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I've been planning & canceling a trip there for the past 3 years. Next year, I'm finally going. Current plan is to land in Dublin, drive to Castleblaney to see where my paternal grandfather was from, then on to Belfast. I will then follow the coast to Londonderry, spend a couple of nights, then continue along the coast until I get to County Mayo. My paternal grandmother's family still has a farm there.

I will then go to Galway and on to the Ennis area, I'll see my mom's family there. Then, back to Dublin and home.

In 2019, I went Dublin, Cork, Beara Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, Galway, then visited family in Co. Claire before heading home.
Wahoo82
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If you like off the beaten path and are interested in a private guide I can recommend looking up Liam Bourke. We used him on our trip to Ireland before the pandemic and he was fantastic. Showed us lots of sights in our five days there and kept us away from all the tourists. He seems to be friends with everyone in the country and we got access to some really cool areas based on his connections. And he is a genuinely nice guy.
scd88
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This is an awesome thread. Thank you, everyone. I've always wanted to visit Ireland, and y'all have provided some fantastic information to make me really want to go. Lol.
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