Utah

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Tony Franklins Other Shoe
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I've been to Moab and Arches, what are the other top 5 areas to see in about a 4-5 day trip in October?
texas_ute
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October is a great time of year to visit Zion National Park. Bryce NP is also in the same area.
Boulder/Escalante area is fantastic- a lot of hikes in slot canyons in that area.
Capitol Reef National Park is another good place to visit that time of year.
reddog90
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Zion is great in October, I was there a year ago car camping and backpacking for a week. Be prepared to fight crowds. You could spend 5 days in Zion and not see it all, but many people only stay for a day on a road trip and do the easily accessed and popular hikes like the narrows. Next time I'm in that region I'd like to do Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches.
wildcat08
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We were in Zion and Bryce two years ago in October. Zion was pretty cool--busy, as noted. Bryce was amazing, we thought.
nosoupforyou
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I'm looking at a trip similar to what these folks did on this blog - Fly to Vegas, then hit a few parks and fly home out of Phoenix

http://hisugarplum.com/2017/05/itinerary-national-parks.html

Lots of good ideas on there..

following this thread for ideas - looks to me like the key is going in the spring or fall - summer is too hot..
bufrilla
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Made a 23 night trip through that area 5 plus years ago
Zion, Cedars Breaks, North Rim Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon,
Grand Escalante, Capitol Reef, Canyonland, Arches, Mesa Verde
Chaco Culture, & Bandelier. Could have spent another week, but
23 days was enough. Great adventure! Well worth the trip. Have visited some
before and after. Could do it all again.

Zion, Bryce, North Rim, Mesa Verde were favorites. All have lodges, we also stayed at Kanab in
the Holiday Inn
Old Jock 1997
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How are these parks over spring break in mid-March, specifically Arches, Bryce Canyon, and/or Zion? Too cold?
RachAg2007
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I'm not sure about the others, but Arches will be perfect in March.
malenurse
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Also interested in this thread. I want to do this trip next spring. My rough draft of this trip is:

Fly Houston to Vegas and rent car.
Visit Grand Canyon
Zion
Bryce Canyon
Capitol Reef
Arches
Canyonlands
Drive to Salt Lake City and fly home to Houston.

Is this too much. Plan to stay 2 days at each location. Neither wife or I are huge hikers. Want to see the sights and do some easy hiking.

Original plan is April, but thinking March, now, to avoid some of the crowds.

Open to any thoughts or criticisms.
nosoupforyou
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malenurse said:

Also interested in this thread. I want to do this trip next spring. My rough draft of this trip is:

Fly Houston to Vegas and rent car.
Visit Grand Canyon
Zion
Bryce Canyon
Capitol Reef
Arches
Canyonlands
Drive to Salt Lake City and fly home to Houston.

Is this too much. Plan to stay 2 days at each location. Neither wife or I are huge hikers. Want to see the sights and do some easy hiking.

Original plan is April, but thinking March, now, to avoid some of the crowds.

Open to any thoughts or criticisms.
THIS! Literally same play for me, but I've got 4 kids (15-9 yrs old) and they don't like long hikes either...

Only potential change is if we went south and flew home from Phoenix, but I'm leaning towards your agenda and hitting all of Utah in one big run...
ryanhnc10
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malenurse said:

Also interested in this thread. I want to do this trip next spring. My rough draft of this trip is:

Fly Houston to Vegas and rent car.
Visit Grand Canyon
Zion
Bryce Canyon
Capitol Reef
Arches
Canyonlands
Drive to Salt Lake City and fly home to Houston.

Is this too much. Plan to stay 2 days at each location. Neither wife or I are huge hikers. Want to see the sights and do some easy hiking.

Original plan is April, but thinking March, now, to avoid some of the crowds.

Open to any thoughts or criticisms.


If you're flying to Vegas, you might as well try and squeeze in Death Valley if you go before it gets too hot. Some very cool landscapes there
Tony Franklins Other Shoe
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We are going to fly in to Vegas and then tentatively hit Zion, Escalante, Cap Reef, Canyonlands, Arches/Moab, Monument Valley and maybe Mesa Verde and then fly back from Albequerque. Trying to finalize the sites tonite, but leave some openings to change as we go.

I'll have a writeup later when we get back. Thanks for the prelim ideas.
K_P
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I think the Utah itenary sounds great! A couple quick thoughts

* look into Moab activities. You mentioned not being huge hikers, Moab will have brewery's, cool town, Jeep tours, helicopter rides, etc. Maybe use a fun touristy activity in Moab to breakup the trip?

* antelope canyon, if you're only going to do one slot canyon, do this. There are others (I can recommend) but if you're only going to do one, do this

* get on the river. More of a plug for what I like to do, but canyons should also be experienced from the river. A day rafting trip or jet boat trip could accomplish this.
Tony Franklins Other Shoe
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Yep, really wanted to Antelope Canyon, but that will be next time. Also want to raft and plan a fishing trip. Good input.
Tony Franklins Other Shoe
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UPDATED TRIP REPORT - very long but will answer questions if you actually read through it.

Qualifiers and background:
Not campers, it was just the War Department and myself, she is hotel only
No itinerary, no kids, just wanted to blow and go and be able to change if we wanted to modify
We have been to Yellowstone before, Breckinridge, Costa Rica, etc, but with kids and in-laws. First hiking trip where we can just go and go, day hiking.
We didn't get into the parks uber early, but we did stay late into the day, we could have eeked out more time if we got rolling early, but that's an argument for another day.

Initial Plan:
Fly to Vegas, rent mid-size SUV, drive and drive, drop off in ABQ and fly out. Checked out the Salt Lake Loop as a potential route and that could work, but would be a beat down on flying in and getting to the first area of interest, but definitely something to consider. One way drop off fee is pretty steep $200+ for most rentals, but driving back to Vegas was at least 8-10 hours, not worth the drop off fee considering flight options. Went from Friday, 9/29 to Saturday, 10/7.

9/29, arrived in Vegas late afternoon, got in the rental, had to sit in some traffic, but found a spot just outside Hurricane UT for the night, 20ish miles from Zion NP. Slot canyon south of St George was incredible for first foray into the territory. Would have liked to have been there about an hour earlier because it was just getting dark. You think, holy crap this is awesome and is hard to top and then look back to see it was just something else to marvel about.

9/30, Zion NP Free entrance that day. Talked to Ranger Lady at the entrance booth and based on our trip, we bought an annual pass for $80 at Bryce on 10/1 and that would come out ahead for all the parks we would likely visit on our trip if we waited and bought day passes instead. Parked and rode shuttle to the second to last stop. Considered doing the Narrows, but weren't prepared for dealing with potential waist deep water. Heard from others at the park if you want to do it, go to where it forks and anything after that is repetitive or over your waist in cold water potentially.

Did the quick trip up Weeping Rock, easy and something different. Started up Angels Landing thinking we would go and check it out. We gutted it out to the first set of chains and got past those. Climb is about 1400 foot in elevation, we stopped at about 1200 feet. It was very crowded and there was a lot of waiting at the chains for people to move past coming down as we were going up. You could see the last 200 feet in elevation, about a half mile in horizontal distance (a lot more chains and congested trails) and see that it would have been a couple of hours at least to get there and come back. If you go this route be prepared. It has sheer faces and not a lot of room in spots. Not for the faint of heart for heights.

We went to the Emerald pools next. Should have stopped for food, but poor planning took us into the trail. Made it up to middle pool and it was OK. I made it all the way to upper pool while War Dept stayed on the trail back aways to rest. Upper pool, meh. It was OK, but at that point, not worth what I went through. Hiked down to lower pool (very nice) and then to Zion lodge. Dumb move by eating a good breakfast, but not following it up with enough snacks or lunch. We had plenty of water, but the energy of the first trip was overcome by the fatigue of Angel's Landing. We do walk a lot but the elevations are killers unless you are used to that kind of thing.

Overall, liked Zion, shuttles were good to move around to all the spots. More of a hiking park and not so much drive in and see things. We left Zion and drove through a portion of the park (tunnel was very cool) and then to Bryce Canyon area. We stopped in Red Canyon on the way in to Bryce, very cool for a short stop on Hwy 12. All along Hwy 12 is very good viewing. Just when you think you have seen it all, something else comes up.

10/1 Bryce Canyon. Got the annual pass, rode shuttle to the end of the park and went out to Bryce point. Hiked the rim trail to Inspiration point, talked with a guy from LA who was nothing like you would expect from LA, conservative and outspoken. Like to talk with people in the park and share stories, always good to meet people. Night before a couple told us about the lower trail that was nice, but all down to the bottom and then back up after you were down in the canyon. After Angel's Landing we were getting more seasoned in picking our elevation changes. Went to Sunset point and went down Navajo Loop Trail which is about 700 foot elevation change, all down to the bottom and then up. Walked over to Sunrise Point along the rim and then got something to eat and rest for a bit. Finished up by driving over to Fairyland and doing some of the rim, then down the trail some. It gets into more a native setting and up on the rim is pretty representative. Fairyland trail is a grind, would be most of the day hike and remote.

Loved Bryce. Can be either pretty easy rim walking or some really good climbs to see some amazing formations. Also some good shorter hikes with not a lot of elevation change. Left Bryce and went through Tropic and Cannonville (stopped at the Ranger Station to ask for advice) and headed to Escalante.

10/2 Escalante Area Hiked Lower Calf Creek Falls trail. Six mile roundtrip, relatively flat, finishing at 140 foot waterfall. Saw pictographs on opposite valley wall along the way. Not a lot of people on this hike, a little more isolated. After hike, drove north along Hwy 12 and drove a 45 mile gravel road around Hell's backbone. Great scenery, aspens were about full yellow to compliment the scenery. Bridge on top of the backbone is single lane, great photo op. Ended up back in Escalante and then went to Petrified forest just west of town, smaller state park, shorter hike with huge petrified stumps that have been exposed, great if you are into rocks.

10/3 Escalante Area Drove out yet another gravel road (12 miles) to Devil's Garden. Very cool sandstone formations in a small area, only a mile or so to hike around and great pictures. Not a lot of people. Left going north on Hwy 12, thought about Burr Trail Road but wanted to get to Capitol Reef NP. Grabbed a sandwich on the way in and checked out the pictographs, hiked up to Hickman's Arch, then went out the Scenic Road to the end of the park. Hiked some through the slot canyon, used to be the old trail through the area. Some petroglyphs and some historical markings of old travelers through the canyon.

Left late afternoon and on the way dropped by Goblin Valley just at dusk on a full moon. Caught most of the lower formation, not enough time to walk through but more awesome photos at a great time of early evening. Very easy to see from the parking area or you can walk thru up close if you have the time. Would like to stop back by with more time, it would be worth it.

You know in Texas how there is a gas station at every junction of every major highway? Hitting I-70 on fumes expecting to get a fill up and seeing nothing was pretty disheartening at 8-ish at night, apparently UTAH doesn't put gas stations everywhere, keep that in mind on the trip, fuel is better to get when convenient and not potentially needed. Somehow nursed the Rogue into Green something and were able to hit the pumps, was a real nail biter for 12-15 miles. Cruised in to Moab for the night.

10/4 Moab and Arches National Park Became readily apparent that people do not know how to pull into a guard shack to pay and make it pretty difficult for the rangers to take your money or grab your card. Major angst going on in my head waiting in line and pondering this idiocy. Started at the back of the park and hiked to Landscape Arch, didn't go further to double O Arch due to terrain and schedule. Saw the others in the area, spent time at double Arch and only did the upper look at Delicate Arch, didn't want to invest the time and effort to hike to it directly, long roundtrip. Saw pretty much all of what was open in Arches, broken Arch area was just that, broken, trail was closed.

Left Arches and booked up to the northern section of Canyonlands NP (Island in the Sky). This area is predominantly driving, did no hiking, it was mostly overlooks into far reaching canyons. Nice drive if you have the time, but in hindsight, might choose something different, although the distances are spectacular. Stopped by Window Arch, it's a quick hike. Traveled south to stay in the Monticello area at a small cabin.
10/5 Started the day heading back north to the southern section of Canyonlands (Needles area). Specifically wanted to stop by Newspaper Rock on the way. Awesome stop, a must see. No hiking, pull-in, park, photos. Traveled on in to Canyonlands and drove around. Would have had some great, isolated longer hikes, but decided to bag it for another time and headed out to Monument Valley.

Nice drive to get there. Spectacular scenery and pretty cheap to get in. We drove the rental inside the area, it's doable (about a 12 mile loop if I remember right) but wouldn't want a standard rental car in there, they haven't box bladed the roads in a long time and there were definitely some good sized pot holes. Major word of advice, if you plan on doing the guided tour on an open truck to get the Navajo background on the area, plan on gaining 5 pounds during the trip. Blowing sand, more sand, and then dust on top of the sand. No way to avoid it and it's likely going to be windy, plenty of people had bandanas or wraps on and you will still be covered up in sand. Also be careful when you stop to take photos, sand blows in open car doors as others pass you. It was everything you remember from the old westerns.

Saw everything to see and headed to Colorado for the night.

10/6 Cortez CO and Mesa Verde Hit the park just outside of Cortez and drove in. Wanted to check out more petroglyphs and hiked a pretty spectacular trail to Petroglyph Point. Great hike, lots of info marked along the way. The hike in is along and below the cliff edge, good amount of grade change, but great views. Once you get to the Petroglyphs, you basically zig zag back up to the top of the mesa and hike back. You could do the hike backwards and just turn back to cut a lot of time but what fun is that.

Did all the overlooks and got good photos, made a reservation to go through Balcony House at 2:00 when we checked in at the Visitor Center in the morning. Most tours fill up early, so keep that in mind prior to your visit. We sort of lucked out to get into Balcony House. Specifically told the War Department to get to the front of the line through Balcony House, you have to crawl up a 35 foot ladder and end up crawling through a 12 foot tunnel and another ladder to leave the area. After eyeballing our random tour group, no way did I want to be at the back of the pack. Not sure if some of those tourists were going to make it out alive.

Near the end of the day, headed south to ABQ. Pretty nice scenery on the drive as usual. Got in about 8:30. Realized the Balloon Festival was going on in a pure scheduling coincidence, but didn't try to get up early to see them take off.

10/7 ABQ Left the hotel to drive by Walter White's house, then went to the northwest side of town to more petroglyphs, a lot of options near town for free if you have your park pass. Hiked a few trails prior to heading to Old Town on a drive by and then to the airport for the flight out. At that point, just wanted out of that freaking rental car. Realized we drove right past the hotel that Wendy the prostitute works at when we stopped near the airport for gas in the rental, more gratuitous BB gawking.

Good: Seemed a little light on crowds. Zion and Arches were pretty busy, Arches had a lot of road construction going on at night, all the road equipment was parked in some of the turnouts, had some areas closed off. Great weather, got some snow in upper elevations, not blistering hot. Highest heat we were in was Monument Valley, about 90. Escalante was about 32 one morning. Most every day was light jacket early, but shorts and shirt by noon. We sort of figured out times of day and photo ops. War Department is very good with photography, I'm a bigfoot photographer. Apparently angle of sun and light is very important so keep that in mind in where you are going and when if you are that into it. Even as bad as I am at photography, the shots are still amazing.

Bad: Should have done more advanced planning by printing out park brochures and picking out some more of the main attractions we wanted to see. Figured it out on the way, but some pre-planning would have helped for park visits. Moab hotels are expensive, most everything else was fairly reasonable given we didn't give ourselves a lot of pre-planning time. We had some misses that we wanted to see, but that can be the next trip. Can really cut down on travel times and convenience if you are a camper or do the RV thing and get much closer to the action in the early morning. But that takes advanced planning as those places fill up fast and way in advance.
nosoupforyou
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wow - great assessment! thanks for sharing
malenurse
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Thanks Shoe. Will probably make this trip next April and this gives me lots of info.

Pisses me off about drop off fees on rental cars. Still thinking of flying to Vegas and coming back through Salt Lake City.

nosoupforyou
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.
nosoupforyou
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malenurse said:

Thanks Shoe. Will probably make this trip next April and this gives me lots of info.

Pisses me off about drop off fees on rental cars. Still thinking of flying to Vegas and coming back through Salt Lake City.


I'm working on a Spring Break trip myself - for 2019, but it takes time to book super saver flights for me and family of 6.

Initial thought is flying to Vegas and then coming home out of Phoenix so we can hit up Sedona.. but may switch to SLC if necessary..

also - wondering if getting an RV would be easier than bouncing through so many hotels over the 8 day trip

have you researched further?

appreciate it!
nosoupforyou
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ok Shoe - I read through everything you wrote and updated my itinerary with some great details - thank you!

only two questions -


Slot canyon south of St George was incredible for first foray into the territory. Where is this area exactly? can't find it on Google maps but like the idea of stopping by here on the way


I guess you have to get a National Park Pass how does it work? Annual or day passes better? We will be all over Utah for 13 days - will the same pass work everywhere?


malenurse
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Soup, at the very first NP you visit, probably Zion, ask for a season pass. It will be around $80 and linked to your DL. You can then visit any National Park for the rest of the season.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
BSD
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Get the national park pass. It's a steal at $80 (the national parks as a whole are great values even without the pass). Don't lose it though. They won't send you a new one. You ha w to sign it and show your DL upon entry but it's not linked in case you lose it. I found that out the hard way.

I'm also interested in learning where the slot canyon south of St George is located.
nosoupforyou
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another question about your time in Bryce Canyon -

Can you please help me decide which path to take? Yours is slightly different than another one I saw online

YOURS - Shuttle to the end of the park and see Bryce Point. Hike the rim trail to Inspiration Point. Hike Sunset Point go down to Navajo Loop Trail. Then Sunrise Point along the rim. Then drive to Fairyland to hike the rim.

ONLINE - Hike Queen's Garden and Navajo Loop Start at Sunset Point. Hike north (left) along the canyon rim until you reach Sunrise Point. From there follow the Queens Garden Trail to a 4 way intersection down at the bottom of the canyon. Continue straight ahead into the Wall Street half of Navajo Loop which will return you back to Sunset Point.
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