National Parks Tour (Rocky Mountain, Grand Teton, Yellowstone) - Trip Report

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Lavender Gooms
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I was on here a couple of months ago asking about a trip to Yellowstone, Grand Teton, and Arches National Parks and was very appreciative of all the tips everyone provided. I was originally planning on typing this all up in one sitting, but that'll never happen, so I'll be splitting it up into smaller portions. Hope y'all enjoy.

My wife, 4-year-old daughter, and I had the opportunity to spend 9 days visiting a few national parks. We had planned to hit Arches, Grand Teton, and Yellowstone National Parks. However, our trip to Arches would be over Memorial Day weekend we didn't have any reservations (and any campsites were fully booked), the main campsite in the park was closed, construction was ongoing across the main park road, and Memorial Day weekend is the busiest time of the year at Arches. We scrapped that park and decided to head to Rocky Mountain National Park instead. I finally found some time and start writing up a trip report. First up, Rocky Mountain National Park (May 25-27)

Day 1: Sprague Lake and setting up camp

We booked a site at Moraine Campground and since it was the first day the campground was open, it wasn't too crowded the first night. The second night was a bit more crowded since it was a Friday, but still not too busy at our end of the campground. I read a review on trip advisor for a specific site at this campground that had nice views and access to the meadow below, so we reserved that one. Plus, it was on the loop that didn't allow generators and that was a plus for what we were looking for. Unfortunately, this site was one of the lower sitting sites and there had been quite a bit of rain recently, which led to a bit of a water issue. After a bit of digging with our daughter's shovels and a metal bowl, we had a nice system to get the standing water flowing away from the site. The water flowed steadily through those little trenches the entire time we were there. .









We had gone to the visitor center earlier in the day and talked to him about all the trail conditions and what would be good for a 4-year-old. A few of our initial trail options were still treacherous, but he gave us a few suggestions as to where to go. Since it was already later in the day by this point, we decided to start with Sprague Lake. It was close to the campground and an easy path to walk around for our daughter. For those of you with kids, I'd highly recommend a nice pair of waterproof hiking shoes (our daughter has Keen's) if they are anything like ours. She will seek out any and all puddles.










As we were leaving the campsite, on the other side of our loop, we came upon a pretty nice herd of elk. The closest ones were no more than a few feet off the road. We tried our best to inch closer to them in the car to get some good pictures.









More to come later. Enjoy!
Lavender Gooms
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AG
Day 2: Bear Lake and Trail Ridge Road
The next morning, I was able to get up early and go try and take some sunrise pictures. Neither my wife and I are much into photography, but my brother-in-law is a big photography nut and had an older DSLR that he let us borrow indefinitely. It was great being able to go down into the meadow and just enjoy the peaceful solitude. I wasn't able to get a recording of it, but while I was taking photos, I got to hear all the coyotes in the area howling for a good 30-45 seconds.






The mornings were very chilly. There was definitely a small amount of snow in the campground the first morning (none on the ground). It was mainly on our tent, picnic table, etc. Hot chocolate and layers were instrumental those cold mornings. Once the sun came out, it instantly felt better. First stop was Bear Lake. We got up to the parking lot around 10/10:30 and grabbed one of the last few parking spaces for the trailhead.
Bear Lake was absolutely stunning to hike around. Anywhere you were on the loop, you could get a postcard worthy view. There was still a significant amount of snow pack around the loop (up to 3-4 feet in some spots I'd say). Our daughter had a blast climbing up onto the snow, eating the snow, and anything else she could think of! I was glad we all had hiking shoes, because there were lots of folks there only wearing tennis shoes who were struggling to keep their balance getting up and down the areas of snow pack. Saw a few Aggies up there, which was nice. The little chipmunk we got the photo of was obviously very used to humans as our daughter is just off to the right in the photo and this little guy kept inching closer and closer to her.



















After lunch and some down time back at the campground, we decided to take a drive up Trail Ridge Road. If I remember correctly, it was close to being opened fully a few days prior to our arrival, and then got 2-3 more feet of snow that week. It wasn't too big of a deal, because we didn't expect to make it all the way up anyway. I can't remember exactly the point we stopped at, but like anywhere else in RMNP, the views were amazing. Once we finished there, it was back to the campground for dinner and packing up. My brother-in-law came along with us for this part of the trip and was able to get a few star shots that last night. The 1st night was too cloudy and the stars weren't very visible. The 2nd night was much better. I don't think he was super happy about how they turned out, but we were still impressed!



















Next stop Grand Teton National Park!
Matsui
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Lavender Gooms
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Day 3: Travel to Grand Teton NP


From our campsite in Rocky Mountain NP to Grand Teton NP, it's about 8 hours of driving. We got to see up close just how flat the drive over to western Wyoming is. We finally got into the more mountainous areas. One could easily stop at almost all the pull-offs as you get near to the park entrance. It was on our drive into the park we encountered the only grizzly bear sighting on our entire trip. The only reason we got a picture is because we were lucky my wife had the camera out and was able to get a single shot while I tried to avoid the numerous cars who decided to slam their brakes on while driving down a 6-7% grade (despite the road sign informing people to not stop/slowdown for wildlife!). Fortunately, we were able to get around it and drive on.













We reserved a tent cabin at Jackson Lake for the 3 nights we were staying. Very basic set up with 4 cots/bunks and a pot belly stove inside for $75/night. We didn't have much time to do anything else besides go to the visitor center at Jackson Lake Lodge, get the Junior Ranger program for our daughter, and set up camp for our stay.







AgMomofTwo
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Just returned from a wonderful trip to The Grand Tetons and Yellowstone! Absolutely must see! Saw a lot of wildlife including elk, bison and yes! a bear (black)! We stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge and was so happy that we did not stay in Jackson Hole. It was way too crowded! Once we went up to YNP, we ha rented a small house in West Yellowstone via VRBO. Another good suggestion as The Old Faithful Inn was nuts! Way too many crazy people! Loved the area and after 2 weeks of sightseeing and visiting friends in Colorado & Wyoming, we are happy to be home!! However, visiting our National Parks is a MUST see.
CanyonAg77
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Keep posting!
Lavender Gooms
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Day 4: Grand View Point
We talked to one of the rangers at the Visitor Center about a relatively easy and less crowded hike, and ended up deciding on a hike up to the Grand View Point. Even being late May, there were still trails with lots of downed trees that hadn't been cleared. The road to get to the parking area is off the main road in the park and is unmarked, narrow, and unpaved. The primary concern I had driving in was there was no indication as to exactly where the parking lot was. Turns out, it's about a mile in and not too bad to drive to (mostly trucks and SUVs in the lot, but saw a couple of smaller sedans too).

The actual hike is a good mix between shaded and not shaded. Other than the incline, it's a simple hike up to the summit. There were a number of breaks for our daughter to rest on the way up. On the way down, we found a round rock that kept her busy rolling it down the trail and chasing after it. Once you reach the summit, the Teton Range is to the west and to the east you can see Two Ocean Lake and Emma Matilda Lake. It is an absolutely stunning view up there.

















One more day to go in Grand Teton and then off to Yellowstone.
nosoupforyou
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Great pics!! Thanks for sharing these ideas

We are in Glacier National Park this week and a waterton NP next week.. if you have ideas there please share!

Going-to-the-Sun road for us today..
drumboy
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Man, that looks awesome.

I see two tents in the first pic, does your daughter sleep in one by herself?
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Buck O Five
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Beautiful places. White water kayaking in Glacier is fun if the flows are low enough to permit. The brewery in kalispell is excellent. The high line trail is breathtaking. Glacier park lodge and prince of wales hotel are nice.
Buck O Five
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Thanks for sharing, looks beautiful. Hope your daughter gets hooked on the parks like the rest of us.
nosoupforyou
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Did Highline Trail today!! It was amazing
Bachelor99
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i'm curious...I plan to do this hike in September....did you head down the loop trail (11.6miles)?? how long did this take you?
nosoupforyou
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Some do that but with wife and kids, we just did the first mile from Logan Pass.

It was especially awesome as while we were comin back, a mountain goat came up to us along the 3 foot path where the line is and we stood aside and he passed right in front of us.. right on the edge.. it was awesome!
Lavender Gooms
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No, the second tent was for my brother in law. He lives in Denver and came to Rocky Mountain National Park with us.
mpl35
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Bachelor99 said:

i'm curious...I plan to do this hike in September....did you head down the loop trail (11.6miles)?? how long did this take you?


I did it all the way through to the loop. 4.5 hours. Took 100+pics. I also hustled the last 4 miles in a downpour. An old guy ahead of me did it in 4.25 hours.

The hike from the chateau to the loop is througha burn with bad views. So you could turn around and hike back and not miss anything if you want. I had a ride so I just went down and out. If I had one car I might turn around when I saw the chateau and go back to logans pass.
Marauder Blue 6
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mpl35 said:

Bachelor99 said:

i'm curious...I plan to do this hike in September....did you head down the loop trail (11.6miles)?? how long did this take you?


I did it all the way through to the loop. 4.5 hours. Took 100+pics. I also hustled the last 4 miles in a downpour. An old guy ahead of me did it in 4.25 hours.

The hike from the chateau to the loop is througha burn with bad views. So you could turn around and hike back and not miss anything if you want. I had a ride so I just went down and out. If I had one car I might turn around when I saw the chateau and go back to logans pass.
Have you posted your pics anywhere?
Bachelor99
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mpl35 said:

Bachelor99 said:

i'm curious...I plan to do this hike in September....did you head down the loop trail (11.6miles)?? how long did this take you?


I did it all the way through to the loop. 4.5 hours. Took 100+pics. I also hustled the last 4 miles in a downpour. An old guy ahead of me did it in 4.25 hours.

The hike from the chateau to the loop is througha burn with bad views. So you could turn around and hike back and not miss anything if you want. I had a ride so I just went down and out. If I had one car I might turn around when I saw the chateau and go back to logans pass.
I think I will do the loop trail portion as well...it seems it would be a lot faster than doing an out and back...I plan to park my car at the loop trail parking lot and take the shuttle back to logan pass to start the hike....
mpl35
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Bachelor99 said:

mpl35 said:

Bachelor99 said:

i'm curious...I plan to do this hike in September....did you head down the loop trail (11.6miles)?? how long did this take you?


I did it all the way through to the loop. 4.5 hours. Took 100+pics. I also hustled the last 4 miles in a downpour. An old guy ahead of me did it in 4.25 hours.

The hike from the chateau to the loop is througha burn with bad views. So you could turn around and hike back and not miss anything if you want. I had a ride so I just went down and out. If I had one car I might turn around when I saw the chateau and go back to logans pass.
I think I will do the loop trail portion as well...it seems it would be a lot faster than doing an out and back...I plan to park my car at the loop trail parking lot and take the shuttle back to logan pass to start the hike....


The shuttle didn't start as early as I wanted. But it isn't a bad plan. All down hill. Only see it all once. It's a great hike so go for it!
mpl35
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Not really. I take pics for myself and share with family and friends. Here are a few. First 4 are on the highline trail. The other two are the lakes at either end of the going to the sun road.









Lavender Gooms
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Day 5: Phelps Lake and driving the Teton Park Road

Sorry for the delay. I was packing and on the road back home the last few days. For the last day in Grand Teton, our first item on the agenda was driving the outer Teton Park Road on the way to our hike. Like everything else in the park, it was absolutely stunning. Even though we'd seen loads of buffalo already, it was worth stopping to get the picture with the mountains in the background.






We had read good things about the Lawrence S Rockefeller Preserve and the hike over to Phelps Lake. Parking is limited, but we managed to get one of the last spots in the lot. The Woodland Trail loop is about 3 miles long and runs along each side of Lake Creek. Phelps Lake is such an awesome place. The trail wasn't too busy and was absolutely serene once you reach the lake. If we didn't have our daughter out there, we could have sat out there for hours.




















Once back at the car, we drove back to the campsite along the inner Teton Park Road. Both of the drives are very scenic with plenty of pull offs for photography.









Yellowstone up next!
Lavender Gooms
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Day 6: Drive to Yellowstone and Norris Geyser Basin

The drive up to Yellowstone from Grand Teton is a couple of hours, so we got up early since the Norris Campground is first come, first served. We got in around 10am and the campground was already about 75% full and had completely filled up by lunchtime.

















We got all set up and ate lunch, then went to Norris Geyser Basin as it's only 5 minutes away from the campground. We figured out the best way to clear crowds from the boardwalk is to just wait out a 5-minute hailstorm while you watch all the people run back to cover!













After that, it was back to the campground for the evening. The highlight of the night and possibly the entire trip was the bison that decided to wander into the campground, probably no more than 30 feet away from our tent. He spent a good hour grazing and wandering around before heading out to the meadow that runs along the side of the campground.









Lavender Gooms
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Haven't been to Glacier NP yet so I can't give any advice on that one. One day though...
Lavender Gooms
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Buck O Five said:

Thanks for sharing, looks beautiful. Hope your daughter gets hooked on the parks like the rest of us.

We hope so too! She seems to really enjoy it as long as we keep our expectations low, itinerary flexible, and the number of breaks high! We bought her a national park stamp/sticker booklet and we've started filling it in. She's up to 4 parks now.
mpl35
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Lavender Gooms said:

Buck O Five said:

Thanks for sharing, looks beautiful. Hope your daughter gets hooked on the parks like the rest of us.

We hope so too! She seems to really enjoy it as long as we keep our expectations low, itinerary flexible, and the number of breaks high! We bought her a national park stamp/sticker booklet and we've started filling it in. She's up to 4 parks now.
Nice.
oragator
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Coming the other way from Yellowstone down to GT, that spot where you first see the Tetons is one of the most beautiful views anywhere. The hike around Jenny lake isn't far behind.
Lavender Gooms
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Day 7: Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, and Mud Volcano
We got to North Rim Drive early in order to beat the crowds that were sure to come. The hike down to the brink of the lower falls is just under a half mile hike and drops down 600 feet along paved switchbacks. Of course, going down was simple, but the hike back up was tough, especially since I had the pleasure of carrying our 4-year-old back up to the top in our hiking backpack. Nevertheless, it was still worth it. We stopped at a couple of the scenic viewpoints along North Rim Drive for quick photos. Unfortunately, Inspiration Point was closed for the season.







After lunch, we hiked around the Mud Volcano area. Honestly, I wasn't too impressed with this area.





We took the rest of the afternoon off to give our daughter some free time at the campsite.
Lavender Gooms
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Day 9: Leaving the park
We stopped at Canyon Village on our way out to get a few presents for family and ended up eating breakfast at the soda fountain inside their main gift shop. We drove out the east entrance/exit to the park and of course couldn't make it out without a few more pictures. The highlight of the drive out probably had to be the gentleman who just couldn't make it the 500 feet up the road to the bathroom and decided to relieve himself without even trying to be discreet on the side of the road!





And that's all I've got! Hope y'all enjoyed it.
drumboy
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