Changing cab mount bushings

5,741 Views | 15 Replies | Last: 3 yr ago by Sims
Sims
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AG
I've been noticing some unwanted noise coming from underneath the drivers rear cab area. Crawled under the truck to check the usual suspects and got nowhere.

Finally, in a very unscientific method... I decided to jump up and down in the bed to see if I could recreate the sound. When I hear the sound, I can also feel an impact to the cab.

Looking at the mount bushings, they're definitely dry rotted. I can peel pieces away with my fingers.

Can I do this job solo? Jack the cab up enough at each mount w/ a bottle jack to get enough clearance to remove? Any aftermarket brands I should stay away from?

2012 F250
BrazosDog02
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AG
Not sure on 2012, but on 2000 and on 2005 Super Duty you can do exactly that. It doesn't take much to clear them. The Ford OEM are pricey, but if you get Poly like I did, be prepared for them lasting forever....and also be prepared for feeling every seam and hard frog turd you run over with your truck. It transmits. Not a problem for me but YMMV. Both of those are kind of a pain and I believe the newer ones are even simpler. Mine had to be access from both underneath the frame AND under the carpet.

1agswitchin4lanes
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Glad to see you still got Ol' Girl!

Like BD02 said, you can use the jack.

OEM are $$$ but they lasted 8 years.

Poly will rattle your fillings out but youll never have to do them again.
Sims
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AG
1agswitchin4lanes said:

Glad to see you still got Ol' Girl!

Like BD02 said, you can use the jack.

OEM are $$$ but they lasted 8 years.

Poly will rattle your fillings out but youll never have to do them again.

It's been a great truck! We drove down to Surfside for a few days last week and I was just making the comment to my wife that I never think about getting rid of it.

Right now it's not really in the budget for the OEMs. If the frog turds get bad enough, I'll probably just change them again later. Seems like a good reason I would need a 2nd day by myself w/o kids to work on the truck. I'm putting Bil. 4600s on at the same time...I think the difference will be pretty apparent the day after.
DeWrecking Crew
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A little advice I learned on changing these out on my '09 F250. If you're just sticking to the ones in the rear, no big deal. But if you're going to do the whole set DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH FOR REMOVAL. The bolts are held in by fragile cage nuts. If you break them, the removal becomes an absolute nightmare. I broke 3 and spent weeks trying to remove them, finally ended up taking my plasma cutter to the frame to get them out. Remove them by hand with socket and breaker bar/ cheater bar with slow steady constant torque.
Sims
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AG
DeWrecking Crew said:

A little advice I learned on changing these out on my '09 F250. If you're just sticking to the ones in the rear, no big deal. But if you're going to do the whole set DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH FOR REMOVAL. The bolts are held in by fragile cage nuts. If you break them, the removal becomes an absolute nightmare. I broke 3 and spent weeks trying to remove them, finally ended up taking my plasma cutter to the frame to get them out. Remove them by hand with socket and breaker bar/ cheater bar with slow steady constant torque.


Good advice, sounds like you went through hell.
TexAg1987
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DeWrecking Crew said:

A little advice I learned on changing these out on my '09 F250. If you're just sticking to the ones in the rear, no big deal. But if you're going to do the whole set DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH FOR REMOVAL. The bolts are held in by fragile cage nuts. If you break them, the removal becomes an absolute nightmare. I broke 3 and spent weeks trying to remove them, finally ended up taking my plasma cutter to the frame to get them out. Remove them by hand with socket and breaker bar/ cheater bar with slow steady constant torque.


Obligitory/ name checks out
rao11010
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AG
I changed mine out on a 2010 f250. I spent a little more and went with oem because they lasted me 9 years and I'll be done with the truck by the time they go out again. I went to Tascaparts.com and got a pretty good price on them. Agree to use a ratchet and go slow. I heated my bolts up with a torch to loosen the loctite, not sure if it helped. Not a hard job, done in one afternoon.



OE_Ag11
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AG
Just did mine 2 weeks ago. Sprang for the extra and put the S&B silicone rubber ones in there. Was a 4 hr job. Got lucky that none of my nuts broke the cages. Heated all of them up with a torch as well.

Looks like I am going to have to jack the body back up because my coilovers need servicing since there is oil in the remote resivoir and it doesn't look like I'm going the be able to get the bolt out without pulling the rest out of the way. Wish I checked that when I was doing it because I would have taken them off and delft with it then.
Sims
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AG
OE_Ag11 said:

Just did mine 2 weeks ago. Sprang for the extra and put the S&B silicone rubber ones in there. Was a 4 hr job. Got lucky that none of my nuts broke the cages. Heated all of them up with a torch as well.

Looks like I am going to have to jack the body back up because my coilovers need servicing since there is oil in the remote resivoir and it doesn't look like I'm going the be able to get the bolt out without pulling the rest out of the way. Wish I checked that when I was doing it because I would have taken them off and delft with it then.
Hah - I did my front shocks yesterday. Ended up piecing together a mix of about 8 socket extensions and u-joints and went through the engine compartment to get to the shock top stud.

Didn't have to do this for the passenger side, it was pretty easy to access.
OE_Ag11
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AG
Passenger side is my issue. I have 2.5in coilovers and the tower is hitting against my windowwasher fluid tank. Even though it was never supposed to. Carli is looki g into it to see if something was wrong on my setup or what is going on. They might have put the bolt in backwards as well. Need to look at it better for re assembly. Good news is when I had the body up I was able to spray it with flex seal and seal it up so it holds fluid, for the first time in probably 4 or 5 years.
Sims
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AG
Rough morning, cage nut on the driver side front came out in pieces , ended up cutting it out and putting in a new bolt.

Everything short of the passenger rear bolt is finished. I've got about an inch of thread left to go. I dont know if it's me being worn out or the loctite or what. Packed it up for the day. Gonna give that last bolt another go after church.
Sims
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AG
Turns out I didn't clean the old loctite off of this bolt. Ended up breaking the nut loose and having to get a socket on it through the access underneath the jack behind the back seat. Got it backed out, cleaned off then ran it back in with new loctite. New bushings all in plus the shocks definitely have things feeling less like a boat and more like a truck.



Thanks all for the words of wisdom!
BMach
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AG
Just got my left side done on my 2011 F250 yesterday. 4 hours to get the one side done. 3 of those hours were spent on the front bolt alone. Ended up breaking the nut free and had to come in from the top to hold it. Will tackle the right side tomorrow.
ReelDeal
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AG
I did the set on my 2012 F250 several years ago. The torch is definitely a bonus. I went about 45 seconds -1 min of a simple bernzomatic propane torch. After that, just use a large ratchet (I used a torque wrench 150 ft/lb) and get you a good arm workout. I took all my bolts out of one side and then lifted the cab up to remove and replace. make sure to use blue locktite and torque back to specs ( I belive 80-85 ft/lbs) I changed mine out and drove it around for 20-30 minutes turning and hitting bumps then went back and re-torqued the bolts again. After that, I recall having my front driver side loosen back up enough that I heard a clunking and I needed to re-torque that one. I used the daystar polys, and I havent had any issues. They are not as soft as the factory, but they are not rattling my teeth out either.
Cadet05
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AG
Any recommendations on a place to have these changed out in the Houston to Beaumont area? I've tried a few of my local mechanics and body shops, but no one wants anything to do with it. The one guy who did quoted $2400 for mounts and labor! 2014 f250 with 47K miles.
Sims
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My FIL had his done in Cypress. Happy to ask where if that's not too far.
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