How to prevent trailer sway (ATV/UTV Trailer)

5,244 Views | 23 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by lkx398
Aggie118
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AG
Howdy! I am a somewhat inexperienced trailer driver (just have pulled smaller utility trailers in the country). This past summer went on an awesome trip to Arkansas to enjoy the Ozarks. I rented a 14 foot Hydraulic tandem axel trailer from United Rentals to take my Polaris ranger and ATV there (I was barely able to fit them both but made it work), note I am using a 2010 Ford F-150 2WD.

On the way there I was white knuckling the entire time because the trailer was swaying ridiculously bad anytime I I went over 50 miles per hour. I mean I was sure it was going to flip off at some points. Needles to say the drive from DFW to Ozark, Arkansas took about twice as long.

I think we loaded the vehicles incorrectly weight distribution wise so we were sure to maximize weight on the front of the trailer (in front of the axel/tires) to ensure this wouldn't happen again. It was slightly better but still swayed a ton and made for a very slow and sketchy ride back.

Long story short I am going back in December and wanted to see if the automotive board had any insight as to why I was having this issue, and how to mitigate it going forward. Thanks ags!
TxSquarebody
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Like you mentioned, load distribution plays a big role. Also, get a longer trailer. The increased distance to the axle of a 16' will make a tremendous difference.
Complete Idiot
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Did you mention it to the rental company on return? COuld be trailer issues, or they could have provided tips perhaps.

You don't want negative tongue weight, but sounds like you knew to load some weight to the front. I think at least 10% of total trailer weight should be the tongue weight. But there are quite a few things that could cause this I believe, maybe someone will respond with one specific to certain speeds or higher.
.
coolerguy12
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AG
You definitely want 60-70% of the weight in front of the axel and centered side to side as best you can. Sometimes the wind movement around your stuff can cause it to sway too. Hard to mitigate that one without going enclosed. Longer trailer will certainly help as well.
Flaith
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Weight distribution



vs.

Milwaukees Best Light
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Check the trailer tires as well. A bad tire or low pressure tire can cause this, as well as the things already mentioned.
Aggie118
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Thank you guys for the quick replies! I will definitely be taking this into consideration for next time. On the way back on that trip we backed the ranger in to ensure that the heaviest part (the engine is located in the rear) was toward the front of the trailer. As I mentioned, it helped a tiny bit but was still pretty shaky and swaying.

I will also be looking into getting a hitch with a greater drop or lower to ensure the tongue of the trailer is tilted upward compared to the rest of it.

Thanks everyone!
maverick12
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AG
Sounds like a trailer issue to me. A Ranger and an ATV aren't all that much weight and it sounds like the Ranger was in front.
MouthBQ98
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Definitely weight distribution problems and I see it on improperly loaded trailers hauling ATV quite often. The only think sometimes saving them is they are behind heavy 3/4 or 1 ton trucks that simply have enough mass to dampen the sway. The receiver and hitch are probably taking a beating. It's not necessarily a good idea to use the shortest trailer that the load will fit on.

Also, some of the bro dozer drivers don't get a proper drop hitch and tow their trailers at an angle, which is bad for all sorts of reasons such as it alters weight distribution, increases the load on the tiedowns or straps dramatically, and takes the load on the springs or torsion suspension slightly off-center, plus if you drive up or down a steeper drive, you'll drag the rear end of the trailer.
JB
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I agree with the proper weight distribution comments, but something makes me still think it is a trailer issue. That much constant swaying with such a light load (maybe 3500 pounds total?) doesn't seem right. Do you have a picture of the setup?
agracer
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AG
Flaith said:

Weight distribution



vs.


. But will the car take off??
coolerguy12
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AG
JB said:

I agree with the proper weight distribution comments, but something makes me still think it is a trailer issue. That much constant swaying with such a light load (maybe 3500 pounds total?) doesn't seem right. Do you have a picture of the setup?


I had a 250cc dirtbike in a utility trailer loaded on the side to leave room for firewood, SOB swayed like crazy over 60 mph. Loaded it in the middle on the way back and it pulled straight. Neither the firewood or the dirt bike weighed a ton but it wasn't balanced side to side and it made a huge difference.
Aggie118
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Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the set up. However I will say that it was a very snug fit. I barely squeezed the honda rancher atv on the back of that trailer. Could that have been a contributing factor?
AgTech88
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Based on that it was probably too much weight on the back of the trailer. If trailer was that short where they both barely fit there was probably no way to get anywhere near the correct weight distribution. Get a longer trailer and you should be ok - but leave enough time before you leave to load it up and give it nice long test drive!
Rexter
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What's your location? I have a 8.5 x 20' enclosed that you can rent for a nominal fee. It's got e-track down the floor and walls, and I keep 20 or so straps in it. Located in CS.

The only downside is it's gonna work the snot out of your truck.
Ogre09
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Had this problem with a 12' enclosed U-Haul and a Ford Ranger. Too many boxes of books (books!) right up against the rear door had it dancing like there was a pissed off rhino back there. Threw the boxes up to the front of the trailer on top of the couch and it lined out.
aggolfer
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Put the ATV sideways on the front of the trailer. That will give enough tongue weight and the Ranger up far enough where it is not on the edge of the back
Aggie118
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Appreciate the generous offer, I am located in College Station area as well. We have property just North of DFW area so we will be there before we leave. I'm not sure if my truck could handle that kind of trailer, especially if it is hilly.
6.5 Swede
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Great info above but lets also cover some basics. Your truck is equipped with a class IV hitch that is rated for 5000 lbs / 500 lbs tongue weight. The trailer you're using is rated for 10,000 lbs, weighs around 2000 lbs, add 2k for the Polaris and 500 for the 4 wheeler for 4500 total and you're close to your hitch rating.

Your loaded trailer should not weigh more 500 lbs at the ball. How do you know how much it is? Load the trailer and then put a bath room scale under the jack as you jack it off the ball. The hitch should raise about 2-3 inches. You should be between 250 to 500 lbs. My quick check is to load the trailer and then try to lift it off the ball, I should not be able to lift it myself without extreme effort but two men should be able to.

Too much tongue weight with a overloaded bed can also be detrimental as the front of the truck can lift causing you to loose steering control.

You would be better served by renting a standard 5000 lb rated 6.5 x 16 trailer instead of the hydraulic heavy duty that's designed to carry a much heavier load. The added length will help you adjust the load for proper tongue weight while the trailer will weight 500 lbs less.
tu- DDU * where NFL Dreams go to Die U
Buck Compton
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Mostly good info, but one error.

You don't know what hitch receiver he has on there.

If it's a class 3 (standard) you're right in your numbers. If he has a class 4 (trailer tow package or max trailer tow package), double your tongue weight and towing capacities. On a class 4, the major restriction becomes your engine and transmission setup on a half ton.
6.5 Swede
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Thanks, I went by Ford's 2010 trailer guide. Your assumptions on maximum trailer are based on a weight-distributing hitch system or fifth wheel. The weight-carrying of a factory installed hitch is a maximum trailer of 5000.
tu- DDU * where NFL Dreams go to Die U
Buck Compton
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6.5 Swede said:

Thanks, I went by Ford's 2010 trailer guide. Your assumptions on maximum trailer are based on a weight-distributing hitch system or fifth wheel. The weight-carrying of a factory installed hitch is a maximum trailer of 5000.
Anything with a trailer tow package (not even max towing) gets a class 4 at the factory. Don't want him underestimating his truck thinking that's somehow the problem. No need for weight distributing hitch

http://assets.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/assets/NGBS/Nameplate_SpecificationLiteDoc/Nameplate_SpecificationLiteDoc_8801EF28-B64F-EE61-A944-6B1AA9446B1A.pdf
6.5 Swede
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That's the sales brochure which advises to refer to the details in the 2010 Towing Guide.
It states on page 29, even with the trailer tow package, that it has a hitch rated for 5000 lbs unless you are using weight-distributing equipment which increases it to 11,300. But, it also says to check the spec decal on the hitch which states the weight carrying and distributing capacities.
tu- DDU * where NFL Dreams go to Die U
6.5 Swede
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My 09 Chevy OM states the same thing, 10 to 15% of trailer weight, 600 lbs for 1500 and 750 lbs for the 2500HD /3500 when used for weight-carrying (conventional) towing.

The issue is the rear axle. With a load in the bed, 4 passengers, plus 500 lbs of cantilevered trailer weight you can exceed the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating) capacity. A weight distribution system equalizes the weight to both axles across the entire vehicle.
tu- DDU * where NFL Dreams go to Die U
lkx398
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Don't forget to check the tire pressures on your truck and compare those numbers with what is on your door and the max ratings of the tires. The tire pressures given on the door (especially on something like a 1/2 ton truck) are given to maximize comfort and fuel economy when unloaded. For towing you can increase your tire pressures as long as you're staying within the max numbers given on your tires (usually given as cold tire pressures). This isn't a free pass to exceed weight ratings of your truck but can make towing a much easier experience (and it's free!).
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