Blew my motor last night

3,044 Views | 21 Replies | Last: 4 yr ago by aggieforester05
aggieforester05
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AG
2007 Mustang GT/CS 5-speed 118K miles (bought new in Sep 2006) with a Vortech H.O. blower and other goodies.


On my way to the taco stand on the outskirts of town and turned onto a lonely road in a business district. Stood on the pedal in first which predictably blew the tires off. About halfway through the rev range, I started hearing loud knocking. It took me a couple of seconds to process what I was hearing over the music, but then I looked down at the dash and the low oil pressure light came on. I immediately shut the engine off and put it in neutral and glided into a business park.



Very little oil on the ground, but it's definitely visible under the car. No doubt that a rod went through the block. This pic looks like there might be a hole visible in the upper left:





I left it there last night and came and picked it up today with a buddy's car hauler. Once I got it home against my better judgement, I decided to just hit the key once to turn it over and see if I heard anything. It unexpectedly started and ran instantly, but the loud knock was there so I turned it off immediately.



Can't see the carnage because it's so low to the ground and the engine bay has too much stuff in the way. I'll try to tear into it when I get a chance, but I have so many projects and work going on right now I don't know when I'll be able to get to it. In the past month, my truck got pelted by large hailstones, my attic was invaded by a pair of racoons, my house was hit with a windstorm (that knocked down most of my privacy fence, knocked out my power for two days and covered my yard in large limbs, one of which would have landed on my truck if I was at home - and I was lucky compared to a lot of people in this town), and now I've blown the motor in my fun car.

I did get a 105K miles of hard use before the blower install and another 13K (4.5 years) of hard use after the install, so I can't complain too much. Pretty bummed out though, because I don't know what I'm going to do since these 3V cars are worth so little money. It's hard to justify repairing or upgrading it. Might just dump it as a roller or part out. I could probably sell the blower kit for as much as I'd get as a roller. Oh well, I guess it's the cost of playing. Just could have happened at a better time.
Complete Idiot
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Hope you at least got a nice meal out of it beforehand.
aggieforester05
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Complete Idiot said:

Hope you at least got a nice meal out of it beforehand.
Didn't make it there, by the time I got a ride back to my truck and drove back they were closed. Luckily there was another great place open, but it was a much further drive. When you have a Mexican wife, tacos stands are life.
Centerpole90
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aggieforester05 said:

Pretty bummed out though, because I don't know what I'm going to do since these 3V cars are worth so little money. It's hard to justify repairing or upgrading it. Might just dump it as a roller or part out. I could probably sell the blower kit for as much as I'd get as a roller. Oh well, I guess it's the cost of playing. Just could have happened at a better time.
I don't speak Mustang well, so pardon me not knowing, but if the these cars at that end of the spectrum in value - you enjoy yours and already have the funbox that sits under the hood... would it cost too much to find a pullout and replace the engine?

Just curious, how much boost did it take to make the factory lower end let go? Asking for a friend.
Silvy
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AG
If the engine is done, you know what must replace it
Shelton98
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aggieforester05 said:

Complete Idiot said:

Hope you at least got a nice meal out of it beforehand.
Didn't make it there, by the time I got a ride back to my truck and drove back they were closed. Luckily there was another great place open, but it was a much further drive. When you have a Mexican wife, tacos stands are life.
FIFY
TSJ
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tk for tu juan
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silverado_lover said:

If the engine is done, you know what must replace it

https://lmr.com/item/M6009B53/1996-2010-mustang-ford-performance-stroker-shortblock

or

https://lmr.com/item/M9000PMCM3/mustang-ford-performance-coyote-power-module-m-9000-pmcm3
TxSquarebody
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Just do what all recovering Ford fans do with their mustang...LS swap it!
aggieforester05
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Centerpole90 said:

aggieforester05 said:

Pretty bummed out though, because I don't know what I'm going to do since these 3V cars are worth so little money. It's hard to justify repairing or upgrading it. Might just dump it as a roller or part out. I could probably sell the blower kit for as much as I'd get as a roller. Oh well, I guess it's the cost of playing. Just could have happened at a better time.
I don't speak Mustang well, so pardon me not knowing, but if the these cars at that end of the spectrum in value - you enjoy yours and already have the funbox that sits under the hood... would it cost too much to find a pullout and replace the engine?

Just curious, how much boost did it take to make the factory lower end let go? Asking for a friend.
I actually found a short block shipped for $450, but stock who knows how long it would last. It would be a tremendous amount of work to swap in another stock short block that might get me another 13K miles or possibly less or maybe a little more. That's assuming there's nothing wrong with my heads or blower (it's oil fed by from the block, so it could be full of metal shavings right now). I also need to do cam phasers, chains, etc while it's out of the car. I was about to do that anyway because I recently got a cel for camshaft position sensor recently. Pretty much a wear and tear item on these ford modular motors. So I'm at least 3K dollars into a 13k mile motor there. Really need to do at least stock crank, boss 302 rods, forged pistons, ARP hardware, billet oil pump gears, and billet crankshaft sprocket. While it's out would be a really easy time to do Brenspeed Detroit rocker supercharged cams, comp cams beehive springs, replacement rockers, and a head cleanup. Most people recommend a good ATI dampener as well, while you're in there. At this point I need to upgrade to bigger fuel injectors and a wider range MAF. Not to mention my rear tires will probably need to be replaced to pass inspection due next month.
Each part isn't that much, but the sum total adds up quick

The boost level, I'm not exactly sure. It's between 10 - 12. This year model did not report boost to the ecu, so my sct X4 doesn't tell me anything. I have a Roush boost gauge, but they are notoriously unreliable. The first month or so I had it, it was showing me 11 psi at redline(now it only shows 7, but rests at 4 vaccuum when the motor is off). I have the 3.48" pulley. I've seen Vortech H.O. 10 PSI kits from different vendors list the 3.48" and the 3.6" as stock size, so I'm not sure which is correct. I bought the kit used and the guy I bought it from said it was 11 psi. I've read other sources that said the 3.48" is 12 psi, which makes sense if my boost gauge showed 11 psi, because my LT headers would result in about 1psi less.

These motors are good for 450 rwhp or 450 rwtq depending on who you're talking to. I always thought the torque number was more relevant. My car was probably closer to 500 rwhp, but I think the tq number would have been below 450 tq, because centri blowers do not make much torque. Peak boost is at redline and they make very little boost below 3,500 rpms. So looks like I was wrong.
aggieforester05
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silverado_lover said:

If the engine is done, you know what must replace it
No way, I'd do a coyote swap before LS, but either way would be ridiculously expensive, time consuming, and complicated if I wanted any chance of running the stock electronics like the dash gauges. I have nothing against ls motors, but I just wouldn't put one in a ford. If I dump a bunch of money into an LS, it's either going to be a vette or an SS sedan.

The only swap I've found that would make sense is an 07 - 09 5.4L GT500 since the electronics would match up and the long blocks/TR-6060 combo are available on ebay for not much more than a built 4.6L short block.
aggieforester05
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Shelton98 said:

aggieforester05 said:

Complete Idiot said:

Hope you at least got a nice meal out of it beforehand.
Didn't make it there, by the time I got a ride back to my truck and drove back they were closed. Luckily there was another great place open, but it was a much further drive. When you have a Mexican wife, tacos stands are life.
FIFY
Truer words have never been spoken.
Ciboag96
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Bummer. Though Confucius say "every ending, such as thrown rod, is a new beginning, such as glorious rebuild project."
Centerpole90
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Dang, I'm surprised it's that much on stock bottom end (boost). I had a lengthy conversation with a guy over Easter who was prepping some LS swapped cars (heavier cars: 64 implala, chevelles, a caddy) for HRPT and they were all in the 6-9 range.
CanyonAg77
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aggieforester05 said:

Shelton98 said:

aggieforester05 said:

Complete Idiot said:

Hope you at least got a nice meal out of it beforehand.
Didn't make it there, by the time I got a ride back to my truck and drove back they were closed. Luckily there was another great place open, but it was a much further drive. When you have a Mexican wife, tacos stands are life.
FIFY
Truer words have never been spoken.
Ummmmm, I'm pretty sure the original joke had nothing to do with Mexican Food.

Kind of like:

"It looks like you blew a seal."

"No, this is just whipped cream."
aggieforester05
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Centerpole90 said:

Dang, I'm surprised it's that much on stock bottom end (boost). I had a lengthy conversation with a guy over Easter who was prepping some LS swapped cars (heavier cars: 64 implala, chevelles, a caddy) for HRPT and they were all in the 6-9 range.
I'm not sure why, but the LS kits are usually 6-9 range and the Ford kits are usually 8-10.

The Vortech ktis for my car are supposed to be either 5psi for the non intercooled version or 10psi for the intercooled version.

My truck is running the same pulley as the phase 2 Roush kit which is 12psi. I'd probably swap to my bigger pulley though if I were to pull a heavy trailer for a long distance.

Boost is really only a measure of back pressure; although, it can make a difference in detonation and cylinder temps. What really matters is how much air you flow. Different exhaust, intake manifolds, ported cylinder heads, and cams can all change the boost number due to fluctuating back pressure.

10 psi with ported heads, cams, intake manifold, and full exhaust would be flowing more air and be more stressful on the engine than a bone stock engine at 10psi.

Doing those same mods and leaving the pulley size the same would result in slightly more airflow but lower boost. That would result in slightly more stress on the rotating assembly, but less chance of detonation.
moore42
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That sucks, but its time to build it right.

I just wish you more luck than I have had with the C5Z....

...I'm pulling the engine for the 3rd time in over a year. this has been the project from hell.
Silvy
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Update your thread
aggieforester05
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moore42 said:

That sucks, but its time to build it right.

I just wish you more luck than I have had with the C5Z....

...I'm pulling the engine for the 3rd time in over a year. this has been the project from hell.
Dang, that sucks, sorry to hear that.

Yeah, I'm thinking about buying a modular head shop pre assembled short block, because they're not much more than the sum of parts. Add billet oil pump gears, ARP head studs, better head gaskets, and a timing chain system refresh.

Who was it that rebuilt your S-trim?
C Loves L
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Fixed
OR
Repaired
Daily
moore42
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aggieforester05 said:

moore42 said:

That sucks, but its time to build it right.

I just wish you more luck than I have had with the C5Z....

...I'm pulling the engine for the 3rd time in over a year. this has been the project from hell.


Who was it that rebuilt your S-trim?
928 Motorsports
aggieforester05
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C Loves L said:

Fixed
OR
Repaired
Daily


Went 118K miles of driving it like I stole it and only broke the alternator before now. Of course I replaced brake pads (rotors still smooth), batteries, and fuel filter. The parts that were replaced with performance parts were all functional when removed. It blew up after pushing close to 2x the original power for 13K miles. Hard to complain about that; although it would be nice if they used stronger rods in these motors.
aggieforester05
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Thanks, might get them to rebuild while it's off.
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