2002 Escape, electrical issue, help!

783 Views | 10 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by 1agswitchin4lanes
Red Krow
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I am a stubborn do it your selfer. I have had this car nearly completely apart and back again in the 13 years I have owned it. I have never had an electrical issue like this.

Started a month ago. Lights would dim and radio would shut off while driving. Battery died a couple times. Tested the battery came back still good. Alternator test came back bad so I put in a new one. It worked fine for about 1 month. My wife lost the key so we had to use an old key that doesn't always turn the ignition switch. Worked for 1 week then wouldn't turn the switch. Found the good key, it worked fine for a couple days but then started have more issues. When we hit the gas the lights dim, the radio goes off, the dash instruments move up and down and such things. There is a click in the dash when the battery light comes on and everything dims. The battery keeps draining so I have to jump it. When I jump start it the wiper blade come on without turning them on.

Not sure if the key thing has anything to do with it but thought I'd add it in just incase.

Does it sound like a short? Could a bad relay be causing this? Read it could be the ignition switch in the steering column. There are plenty of suggestions online but just want to know if anyone has had a similar issue.
JP76
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How old are the battery terminals ?

Have you checked all the ground connections for tightness ?
Red Krow
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The terminals are not original. I replaced them a bunch of years ago. The connection to the cables look good, there doesn't appear to be any corrosion.

I have not checked on the ground connections. That is one of the things I have read it could be. I'll look at the ground connections tomorrow. Would a loose ground cause the battery to drain?
JP76
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https://itstillruns.com/signs-symptoms-poor-ground-connection-auto-battery-12129200.html


Do you have a voltmeter ?

If so with the car running and in park what is the voltage at the battery while running ?
wunderbrad01
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AG
I second or third bad battery connections. Could be the ground at the frame as well. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it's good, needs a thorough check. Make all those connections amazingly clean and get back to us.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
JP76 said:

https://itstillruns.com/signs-symptoms-poor-ground-connection-auto-battery-12129200.html


Do you have a voltmeter ?

If so with the car running and in park what is the voltage at the battery while running ?
This.

Where did you get the alternator from?

Some 'rebuilt' alternators end up being spray and pray jobs.

I'd put voltmeter on it and have someone increase RPMS from idle to like 3000 RPM to see what happens.
Red Krow
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I double checked and cleaned the battery and connections. Followed the negative battery to where it is bolted to the frame. Took off the bolt and cleaned and replaced. Still not working right. Jump off the car, it runs for a minute now and then dies. I went to O'reily's and talked to them about ordering new alternator cable and battery cables. The guy said the "new" alternator might be bad as 1ag said. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the alternator back off and take it to O'reily's. It's PITA to get the alternator out of it.

I couldn't find my volt meter, I think i threw it out last time I went through my tool box. Vague memory that I may have left the battery in it and it corroded. I might pick one up at wally world tomorrow before attempting to pull out the alternator again.
Red Krow
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ok, so I picked up a volt meter and charged the battery over night. Getting about 12.2 on the battery. When the car is on it stays about the same. I check it several times, gave it gas let it idle and checked it again a bunch of times. One time it read 15.9 on the volt meter at the battery. i got in the car gave it some gas and checked again and it was back down to 12. could it be a bad connection somewhere or does that sound like its the alternator?

On another note, what should the voltage be when touching the main wires that go into the fuse box? I'm getting a negative number. I don't know the ins and outs of a volt meter, I have only used them for basic stuff.
Red Krow
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Just let it idle while posting that last one. Went back out and it is reading anywhere from 14.5 to 16 volts on the battery terminals. The battery light is sometimes on and sometimes off. I put a brick against the peddle at about 1500-2000 rpms the interior lights starting going off. The meter registers 12.5 at that time. I revved to 3000 and tested and it was at about 12.5. Should it stay the same 14-15 range at a higher rpms? When it went back to idle it went back to 15 or so on the meter.

Could the belt be slipping at higher rpms. I don't hear a squeal of a belt slipping. I really don't want to take the alternator back out it a PITA

1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
If the engine is on and the charging system is functioning properly, you should be sitting at 13.3-14.0 ish Volts.

If you're below 13.1, the alternator is weak and/or not performing like it should.
Red Krow
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Mystery solved hopefully! Pulled the alternator back out and took it to oreilys. It was putting out 30 volts on their test. They warrantied it and gave me another one. It's back in and the car is running well. Thank goodness no new car payment.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Red Krow said:

Mystery solved hopefully! Pulled the alternator back out and took it to oreilys. It was putting out 30 volts on their test. They warrantied it and gave me another one. It's back in and the car is running well. Thank goodness no new car payment.
Excellent news
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