Battery reads 12 v and drops to 11.7 when when key turned to on with all accessories turned on; ac on max, headlights on etc. Engine won't start; no clicks or anything. Is this the starter?or could it be something else? are they easy to change?

Starting issues, especially in summer, almost always mean a battery problem. How old is the battery? Have you tried to jump start it?

To test the starter, get someone with a small hammer and tap on it while someone else turns on the ignition. But out of probably 20 times my vehicle wouldn't start, only once was it the starter. Even when the battery wouldn't take a jump.

Battery is only 2 yrs old
I figured it is fine based on the voltage reading, but I'll try jumping it and see if that works

Thanks

What happens to voltage at starter when you crank?

Sounds more like a starter issue. If it lacks power (cables or battery), there's typically at least one click. If starter is receiving full power when you crank, issue is very likely to be starter.

Luckily for you, starter isn't hard to change & ~ $160 from parts store for the lifetime warranty dudebrah

You'll need 13mm 3/8 drive socket/ratchet w/ extensions & 8mm 1/4 drive socket/ratchet

videoag98 said:

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Battery reads 12 v and drops to 11.7 when when key turned to on with all accessories turned on; ac on max, headlights on etc. Engine won't start; no clicks or anything. Is this the starter?or could it be something else? are they easy to change?

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12v is essentially dead. 25% charge. Replace the battery.

A fully charged battery is 12.7 volts.

12v test light is also your friend. Have someone try to start and see if the starter is getting power. You can also check the relay.

Tried to jump start off off another car. Still no go.

If no noise/nothing, and you can confirm the starter is getting power, probably the starter. Not a big deal if so, just get a rebuilt one and swap your old one for the core charge. I've done this at NAPA, I'm sure other auto stores can do the same.

Have your battery tested at the auto store first. I have replaced starters on two different cars because "the inside lights worked and I got no click". One I even tried to jump and it didn't start.

Before you check battery, be sure to swap in a LQ9 first.

Thanks, Il remove the battery and take it to Autozone for a test tomorrow.

If it won't start on a jump, and you made a really good connection when jumping, sounds like starter or short.

Having said that, 12v flat at the battery is still dead and should be looked at.

Agree with testing the battery first. I had a similar issue on my 96 Silverado and it turned out to be the starter and the positive cable from the battery shorting out every time I hit the starter. Somehow the solenoid piece of the cast case had broken and would move in a way that shorted the battery and kept it from giving juice to the starter. Huge fluke that it would do that but was obvious when I pulled the starter. At least the starter is sort of easy to get to.

Its not the battery. It actually measured 12.7 volts. I also removed the starter relay and bridged the connection with a piece of wire and didn't get anything. I went ahead and ordered a starter on Amazon for 50 bucks. It should be here today.
It looks like it is pretty easy to get to. I went under the truck and took this pic. I can't see the battery cable feeding it from this angle, hopefully once its lowered I will be able to have enough slack to disconnect it and wire up the new starter.

Disconnect the ground cable before you drop the starter.

And my son called the other day with a Chevy pu, new battery a few months before, wouldn't start. After talking through several scenarios, I guessed neutral safety switch. He took it out of park, put in neutral, it started right up. It hasn't repeated the problem. My guess is he somehow got in park, but just not quite enough to activate the switch.

So for anyone else having a no start with an apparently good battery, work the gear shift a little and try again, just in case.

Did they load test the battery?

Yes, battery tested fine. I did also try starting it in neutral also, but no go.

My '92 had a switch that sat on the distributor that up and died once, preventing it from starting. I would have never figured it out had it not died on the side of Highway 90 east of Del Rio outside a knowledgable rancher's house who just happened to have a junk late model Chevy truck in his pasture. He pulled it for me, we replaced mine with his on the side of the highway, and away I went. True story. Was hard to believe even while it was happening.

Schall 02 said:

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My '92 had a switch that sat on the distributor that up and died once, preventing it from starting. I would have never figured it out had it not died on the side of Highway 90 east of Del Rio outside a knowledgable rancher's house who just happened to have a junk late model Chevy truck in his pasture. He pulled it for me, we replaced mine with his on the side of the highway, and away I went. True story. Was hard to believe even while it was happening.

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I can't figure out to what switch you refer. Some of the HEI distributors had a chip inside that was known to fail, but was pretty easy to replace. We went through a lot on our 292 Chevy irrigation engines.

CanyonAg77 said:

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Schall 02 said:

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My '92 had a switch that sat on the distributor that up and died once, preventing it from starting. I would have never figured it out had it not died on the side of Highway 90 east of Del Rio outside a knowledgable rancher's house who just happened to have a junk late model Chevy truck in his pasture. He pulled it for me, we replaced mine with his on the side of the highway, and away I went. True story. Was hard to believe even while it was happening.

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I can't figure out to what switch you refer. Some of the HEI distributors had a chip inside that was known to fail, but was pretty easy to replace. We went through a lot on our 292 Chevy irrigation engines.

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That was probably the one. I just remember it mounting near or to the base of the distributor.