Looks like a fun project! Good luck.

Impressed

So, what cam are you going to run? The 80e has a long first gear, you'll probably want to run somewhere around a 4.11 to keep it feeling sporty light to light. Circle D makes a nice affordable torque converter for the 80e as well.

Dang, woman

Look what I picked up today. Floor pans should be in tomorrow. Working from home so I can load up s-10 and haul it to a buddy's house and rear it apart. Hoping to have it down to the frame only by Saturday, and getting the body and motor/****** dumped off at the junkyard. Decided to just stick with two LS motors in the toys. I don't have a ton of help this weekend, as one buddy is working on a friend's t-bucket and the other is working on his old Camaro. I have an impact and a bunch of time.

May not get frame lengthened this weekend, but we shall see. Will have it done by next weekend. I'll have my kiddo, so it will stall some but I'll tear the 9" down and clean up the house etc while she's asleep Fri/Sat night to keep things progressing.

Complaint Investigator said:

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Look what I picked up today. Floor pans should be in tomorrow. Working from home so I can load up s-10 and haul it to a buddy's house and rear it apart. Hoping to have it down to the frame only by Saturday, and getting the body and motor/****** dumped off at the junkyard. Decided to just stick with two LS motors in the toys. I don't have a ton of help this weekend, as one buddy is working on a friend's t-bucket and the other is working on his old Camaro. I have an impact and a bunch of time.

May not get frame lengthened this weekend, but we shall see. Will have it done by next weekend. I'll have my kiddo, so it will stall some but I'll tear the 9" down and clean up the house etc while she's asleep Fri/Sat night to keep things progressing.

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Where are you located??

How does one find a deal like this? I only find rust buckets on craigslist.

Austin area.

Picked this up for hood. It's from a '57



Kept reading, and the 9" from '57 were o ly 28 spline and had a notoriously weak carrier. While reading on LS1Tech, came across a guy rebuilding his 90's f-body. Read about his experience with Hawk Motorsports and their 8.8 axles. Emailed Bruce and asked if they could make one to direct bolt in to a s-10. Of course they can. Only difference is we are going with 33 spline due to issues they are having with the 31 spline true tracs.



Buh bye



I also may have changed my mind on the motor. We shall see how that plays out. Dad mentioned a 427 stroker based off a 351W. That's a little much, but I think 408 would be fun. I also looked at the new Coyote 5.0 motors, but finalizing the engine is still a few months off.

reddog90 said:

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How does one find a deal like this? I only find rust buckets on craigslist.

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My buddy bought an original 442, not numbers matching but body and frame are legit 442, for $1k. That required a lot of nights after school welding sheet metal and patches everywhere due to rust. But for $1k I'd have made it work. It's one of those things where you either feel like doing the body work, or you pay more for a straighter body. Mine is getting new floor pans, risers and hidden steps. $500 in sheet metal but a bunch of cutting and welding. If I had wanted to keep the frame I'd be f-ed as I found the frame rot after getting it home. There are a bunch of 3100's that look pretty straight for $3k-$4k. I paid 2 for the Ford roller and drove 6.5 hours round trip (plus a side trip to a shady part of Houston to pick up a motor for my buddy. I didn't get out of the truck until he said it was ok.)

I'm not pretending like this one will be easy. The frame work itself is a large undertaking. I didn't get around to pulling motor and transmission, so doing that Thursday. then have to pressure wash; cut frame; stretch; weld frame; put in all new ball joints, tie rod ends; cut body mounts until we fit cab then burn them back in; install longer a-arms ($$$) decide on lowering to make the truck level (probably air bags and a c-notch $$$) install new rear axle; swap front brakes for something bigger (probably C5 swap) etc. Thats just the frame. I'm 99% sure I'm going to need a different transmission crossmember.

Most people also give up once they dig in and realize just how much work, time and money are involved. I am in absolutely zero hurry, and have a close group of friends who all have projects (442, an early 70's Cheyenne, '53 Chevy, k5 blazer, t-bucket, early 70's original rally sport camaro etc.) I have help if I need/want it, so spent a little less on something that wasn't 100% and jumped in head first.

If you look daily, deals will pop up. You just have to be ready to buy it that day.

Complaint Investigator said:

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reddog90 said:

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How does one find a deal like this? I only find rust buckets on craigslist.

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If you look daily, deals will pop up. You just have to be ready to buy it that day.

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So. Much. This.

For certain periods of time I could tell you where every single advertised 67-72 C10 was from Birmingham to Phoenix; what it was priced at and how long it had been for sale. I'd see trucks sell, re-appear, and sell again. Craigslist, multiple facebook groups, websites, Instagram - all sources I'd scour almost daily - something I'm sure CI can relate to. Sometines you make out with a good deal locally, or through a contact, but in the absence of that ( or traveling/commuting and spotting) electronic media is your friend - and so much better than having to pick up the Ad-Sack paper!

Yep. Here's a decent priced '53 Chevy 3100 in CS. Cab corners look good, can't see holes anywhere else but they also didn't include a picture of the interior. Ad says "decent" but thats subjective. It's a five window, too. Change your search and limit it to just years in Craigslist as well. You'll see even more results. eBay is overpriced. I searched Craigslist areas in locations as far as I was willing to drive.

https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/53-chevy-truck/6318241301.html

With some time on my hands until I can work on the truck some more, I decided to look up some history. It took a lot of internet searching, but it's pretty cool.

1957-1960 were the only years this body style F-100 was built. Ford spent what equated to a small fortune to revamp their vehicles in 1957. I knew I wanted it because of the windshield frame slanting forward over the hood versus laying back on the body. Bubble fenders are overrated anyhow

Here's the data plate:



F10 is F100, J is the engine code, which was a 6 cylinder 223. 7 was the year (1957) and K is the plant where it was manufactured, in this case Kansas City. The sequential serial number of the plant is 13310. It was the 1,310th vehicle manufactured that month, more on month later.

The following number is 110 - length of the wheelbase.

Moving on, 126 is the horsepower of the engine at 4K RPM's

On the next line, 3LD is the transmission code. I have found a 3HD, but not LD. Not sure if that's light duty or what. 3 speed either way.

3.70 is gear ratio

Cool part: F is the color code. Starmist blue was only used by Ford in 1957, and only on trucks, t-birds and fairlanes.

Last one is the production code. 19 is the day it was anticipated to be completed, B is February. 1149C is the production item number.

There were 13,122 of 110" WB flaresides build in 1957. Options on this truck were few - windshield wipers, a heater and a rear bumper as far as I can tell since the drivetrain is no longer with the truck. The flaresides had wood beds, while the stylesides received a metal floor.

LS swap is happening...just not in the truck. Will probably go in the Jeep. I had a change of heart about a GM motor in my old Ford (even though it's going on a GM frame.) So, I went with tried and true HP maker in the form of a 351W. This one is totally rebuilt, bored .30 over, flat tops, edelbrock performer intake, and everything it needs sans a carb. It will stay as is because I blew a bit of the budget buying another motor. Soliciting bids on transmissions now from a few shops - suggestions welcome. Looking at mildly built T-5's.



Pulled motor and transmission, took it to the junkyard. Next up is frame cutting. I need to pick up some square tubing at some point during the week to tack weld on to the frame. Probably haul it over to where the welder is Thursday night and get that part done. Then I can take it to my house and throw it in the garage. Will take a wire wheel to it after stripping everything off the rails, and already have a gallon of chassis saver in gloss black waiting. My HOA is going to love me. I got a letter from them about my Jeep since I moved it out of the garage and parked it in the driveway. Apparently, they think it is not driveable and told me to put it back in the garage. I now make a point to drive it around the neighborhood, 0FKS license plate in full view, then park it halfway on the curb just to tick off the person who said something about it and/or the management company who drives around handing out notices.

Enough about them. More pictures. Frame sans motor and transmission. Need to ditch the side mounted gas tank and buy one that fits between the frame rails in the back. I'll add that to the list.



Check out the motor mount bolts. I didn't back those out. The bolts and nuts holding the engine on were also hand tight only. Transmission mount was missing a bolt and was just as loose as the rest of them. Made for very short work of removing engine and transmission. 30 mins tops - I think I was done at the junkyard after 1.5 hours and on the way to the pumpkin patch with the tiny human. She had fun getting greasy helping out.



With what I sold the motor and transmission for, was able to buy a complete LS1 rear brake kit to go on the new axle, and another set of wheel dollies so I can move the Dana 44 sitting in my garage around a little easier. That thing is a pain in the butt however I have nowhere else to put it unless I get it back in the truck, and throw it on my car hauler at my buddy's place. I really wish I had the time to clean it up, put it on the Jeep and get it out of the garage. Unfortunately, time is a huge constraint and I said I wasn't touching the Jeep until the truck was done.

Brake stuff. I'm going to paint them black as soon as they come in.



Once I get the frame in my garage I can work on it at night after kidlet is asleep. Until that point, I'm sort of at a standstill as it's 30 minutes away at a friends shop. I don't want to order much until I go through the frame and see what I need. Lots of parts sitting around isn't something I really have room for.

Once I get the frame cut, extended, welded, painted, rear axle in - I will start with the suspension. For sure it is getting inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints because they look like hell and new body mount bushings all around. I won't install them yet, as we will probably have to cut some off and relocate when it comes time to put the truck body on.

Front brakes being upgraded with a kore3 kit. Lowering wise I can't decide if I'm going to spend the money on air ride now, and have to wait on other stuff, or wait on the air ride and do things like HP/TQ additions to the motor.

Accumulated parts and had to wait for a free weekend sans children from all parties to get everything done to the frame cutting and lengthening wise. It's now done, welded back together, and in my garage. Lining it up next to the truck is an almost perfect fit. Burned up my drill knocking 15 years of grime off the frame, but got a small section painted in gloss black chassis saver. I dig it. Tackling front end suspension next. Ball joints, tie rod ends and shocks.

Once that's done, will pull rear axle while waiting on new one to come in. Install fuel cell and run lines. Saved the majority of the lines from the s-10 to reuse. Floor pans next and then myself and 3-4 burly buddies will start the process of moving the cab around on the frame to see 1.) where it will sit and where we need to burn in the motor and body mounts and 2.) what drop I need in my transmission x-member (if any.) will be welding in a tubular crossmember from speedway. Too easy to pay $60 and have it fit just right.

Due to the cost of the transmission I want to use, air ride and my 3-link is going to have to wait a while. As soon as the transmission details are finalized, I'll post the deets.

Nice project. That's gonna be one sweet truck!

If your S10 suspension is at the point of needing ball joints, you probably also need upper control arm bushings, an idler arm, and maybe a steering center link (drag link). On the 2WD S10s the Pitman arm is just a hunk of metal and the moving part is in the drag link; I didn't realize mine was badly worn until I disconnected the idler arm to replace it and discovered how much slop there was at the Pitman arm end. At least that's how my '91 was -- I don't think they changed much in the frame or suspension for the 2nd-gen, and your pics look very familiar.

It will be a lot easier to do that work without a body or engine in the way! (And hopefully you have air tools, too. I did all this in 2011 without them, which pretty much solidified my decision to acquire them. Had to pull the inner fenders to drill out the rivets on the upper ball joints, which are super hard metal that quickly dulled my drill bits, and pressing in the lower ball joints required using a cheater bar and bracing my feet against the frame. Never again!)

Updates sans pictures, because I don't abide by rule #1. Actually, I lied. Picture at the end.

1.) frame almost down to bare metal in all areas. Painted some with chassis saver, just to have to take it all off because it flaked in soma areas (don't think I got all the grease off.) Annoying as hell, but prepping the snot out of it this time.

2.) Big brake conversion on the way. Bracket kit from kore3, Z06 GS 3 piston calipers, DS5000 D&S rotors, and Hawk brake pads on the way. Cheaper to buy it separately vs the entire kit from kore.

3.) Ordering wheels Monday through a cyber monday deal. 18's all around FTW!!! (and to make room for big brakes.)

4.) ordered fuel cell, brackets, fuel pump and regulator, fuel lines, front and rear tires from Jegs (no tax, vs having sales tax through summit)

5.) Had to wait on rear axle, because I went with pretty wide rear tires. I've got a bunch of measuring to do to get the wheels right, and to make sure I order the axle the same width as what's currently on there. If you are wondering, went with 325/40R18 drag radials on the back (and smaller versions on the front.)

6.) TRANSMISSION DETAILS:

• Tremec TKO600
• McLeod RXT Clutch
• Lots of other misc things that most won't care about. I bought the entire thing plus bellhousing, flywheel, starter etc. from Forte's Parts. Mike is a good dude, and will take care of you if you need to order parts. Hoping it ships next week.

7.) I also have a slight addiction to Ford Trucks. This is the newest addition. '75 F-250 chassis cab. Baytree green is the stock color. C6 Auto Transmission. Stock 360 motor with 77K original miles. Stock bed. Wheels are not stock, but I'll fix that at some point. These trucks were full time 4WD, divorced transfer case. One of the last years of the factory "highboys," which was just a stock suspension from 1973-1977.5 (necessitated by the narrower frame.) There is almost zero rust on this thing, and being a Canadian truck - I was really impressed. No plans to modify this old gal. Just a weekend warrior classic to tool around in.

I like that truck better

GAC06 said:

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I like that truck better

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I like helicopters better

Complaint Investigator said:

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Mateo84 said:

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That license plate on the jeep in the driveway

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Ah, yes. One of my favorite drunken purchases

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IMpressive that they approved it.

When you aren't paying attention, and put it in backwards (heh.)

Took a lot of trimming and some ingenuity to get it in (That's what she said but 20 gallons will make for decent weekend cruising.



I also was having a hard time with wheels. I needed minimum 18x11" in the rears for the 325's. 18's to clear the brakes. Not surprisingly, most of what's out there in that size or larger is pretty gaudy/bro-ish and not what I wanted at all.

This is where I blow my wheel budget. By a significant amount. Right along with the brake budget, and motor budget. There's a theme here.

Custom wheels are not cheap. Centerline is gone so...

Budnik's is known for their wheels on hot rods, and they are still around. They can customize the wheel to clear the brakes and make the backspacing work to where no spacers are necessary. I've taken a ton f different measurements for them, and hope I have the frame done by the time the wheels are ready.

This is what I chose. Different color etc but 18x12 rears and 18x8 up front.



Because I sucked at rule 1 last time, here are some misc pictures.

Fuel lines and connections, regulator and pump.



Dem rotors!!



Waiting on the rear tires, but fronts are in!

Dat F250 doh

Have an idea - Skip you BB trip, take your truck and my trailer and go get it in Nashville.

Complaint Investigator said:

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GAC06 said:

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I like that truck better

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I like helicopters better

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At least you have good taste in trucks

My taste in aircraft to pilot is still better than my taste in the men I date

Complaint Investigator said:

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My taste in aircraft to pilot is still better than my taste in the men I date

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I thought you said you liked helicopters

They've gotta have a pretty decent rotor diameter to get my full attention.

giddy

/id/

verb

[ol]

1.
make (someone) feel excited to the point of disorientation.

[/ol]