Front wheel bearings w/out a press

2,239 Views | 25 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by redd38
redd38
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So I understand that I would need a press to replace my front wheel bearings (to press the old bearing out and press the new bearing in). However, RockAuto sells Wheel Bearings & Hub Assembly. Am I correct in assuming that buying one of those will remove the need for a press?

These are what I'm looking at: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2007,sentra,2.0l+l4,1433464,brake+&+wheel+hub
will.mcg
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You PROBABLY won't need a press to remove the old bearings from the old hubs & replace the bearings & seals. I am not familiar with Nissans. Yes if you buy the hub assemblies you won't have to press any bearing in but you will spend more money. Typically the hard part will or will not be removing the hub....just depends if it has seized up or not. Knocking out bearings/seals & replacing them is pretty easy. Eh, $20 vs. $50. Meh buy the assembly if you aren't scraping the cash together.
redd38
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So is the hub pressed in to the knuckle or is it bolted in? That's what I think I don't understand.
evan_aggie
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http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=183066
MouthBQ98
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Dad and I always used a cold steel rod and mallet to tap the races out of the hub from the back side. Sometimes a big socket that was a bit smaller than the race diameter would work too. Just keep hammering all around the circumference of the race. You can install them the same way.

Just be careful what surfaces you are hitting the race on with the rod edge or end.
agwrangler2001
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MouthBQ98 said:

Dad and I always used a cold steel rod and mallet to tap the races out of the hub from the back side. Sometimes a big socket that was a bit smaller than the race diameter would work too. Just keep hammering all around the circumference of the race. You can install them the same way.

Just be careful what surfaces you are hitting the race on with the rod edge or end.
Yes also sometimes it helps to put the races in the freezer first.
will.mcg
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I dunno. Looking at the hub online it appears to be bolted.
Esteban du Plantier
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Nm
.
SCHTICK00
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agwrangler2001 said:

MouthBQ98 said:

Dad and I always used a cold steel rod and mallet to tap the races out of the hub from the back side. Sometimes a big socket that was a bit smaller than the race diameter would work too. Just keep hammering all around the circumference of the race. You can install them the same way.

Just be careful what surfaces you are hitting the race on with the rod edge or end.
Yes also sometimes it helps to put the races in the freezer first.


This. Learned this lesson replacing the stick bearings on a 320 CAT excavator. Liquid nitrogen was the miracle worker.
tlh3842
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I went the replace the whole hub route vs just the bearing and I think it's worth a couple extra bucks. I've only seen a few different vehicles, but it seems like hubs are usually bolted on. Mine were
redd38
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I tried to replace the whole knuckle/hub/bearing assembly this morning and had to give up when I couldn't get the lower arm bolt disconnected from the knuckle. Guess I'm gonna have to pay the pros.
MouthBQ98
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You smack the side hard with a mallet while putting a little bit of pressure on it with a crowbar? Always works for me.
redd38
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MouthBQ98 said:

You smack the side hard with a mallet while putting a little bit of pressure on it with a crowbar? Always works for me.


I beat the **** out of it, sprayed a ton of PB Blaster on it, tried wedging it out. No luck.
Esteban du Plantier
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A ball joint separator and an impact wrench will pop it off. If you use a pickle fork, you may damage the ball joint or its dust boot.

That separator can be bought for under $20 or borrowed from O'Reilly for free.
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redd38
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Esteban du Plantier said:

A ball joint separator and an impact wrench will pop it off. If you use a pickle fork, you may damage the ball joint or its dust boot.

That separator can be bought for under $20 or borrowed from O'Reilly for free.


Well I wish the guy at O'Reilly would have mentioned that when I explained the problem to him. Guess I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks.
Esteban du Plantier
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This is what you're looking for:



.
Rexter
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On the Toyota you still have to press the assembly onto the knuckle. Everything I see says the Sentra is the same.
Drewmeister
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Esteban du Plantier said:

This is what you're looking for:




I don't think O'Reilly rents that style of tool, but Napa does, as part of a 4-piece (IIRC) kit. It's definitely the way to go if smacking the side of the knuckle doesn't dislodge it.
Silvy
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I have best results when I apply heat. Any damn thing that doesn't want to move gets the torch.
Agmechanic
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silverado_lover said:

I have best results when I apply heat. Any damn thing that doesn't want to move gets the torch.


Victor Wrench
agracer
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redd38 said:

I tried to replace the whole knuckle/hub/bearing assembly this morning and had to give up when I couldn't get the lower arm bolt disconnected from the knuckle. Guess I'm gonna have to pay the pros.
EDIT: NM...misunderstood.
redd38
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New issue...
I got the knuckle off the ball joint using the tool, but I couldn't get the axle out of the knuckle even with a tool specifically for that purpose. I think my CV joints are going out anyway so I'm just going to replace the whole axle. My car has ABS but I can't find any axles for my car that have an ABS ring, and can't find anywhere to buy just the ring for my car.

Does a Nissan Sentra not use an ABS ring? Or is it like in the hub instead of on the axle?
Drewmeister
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Have you tried this tool (which they rent for free)? It always worked great for me, although on one of them I had to slightly enlarge the holes to fit my lug pattern. I can't imagine that not doing the trick, especially if combined with penetrating oil and an impact wrench. (Also make sure the threads on the tool are clean and well-lubed -- this goes for any tool with a forcing screw.)

I've heard bad things about aftermarket axles causing vibrations and such. I'd lean toward replacing the CV joint if needed and keeping the OE axle shaft.

The ABS tone ring could be on the axle, the brake rotor, or the bearing, and may or may not be available separately. A service manual (or model-specific forum, Youtube, etc.) would be helpful.
redd38
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Drewmeister said:


Have you tried this tool (which they rent for free)? It always worked great for me, although on one of them I had to slightly enlarge the holes to fit my lug pattern. I can't imagine that not doing the trick, especially if combined with penetrating oil and an impact wrench. (Also make sure the threads on the tool are clean and well-lubed -- this goes for any tool with a forcing screw.)

I've heard bad things about aftermarket axles causing vibrations and such. I'd lean toward replacing the CV joint if needed and keeping the OE axle shaft.

The ABS tone ring could be on the axle, the brake rotor, or the bearing, and may or may not be available separately. A service manual (or model-specific forum, Youtube, etc.) would be helpful.


Yeah, I tried that tool, didn't work.

I'll keep that in mind about the aftermarket axle.
Esteban du Plantier
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redd38 said:

Drewmeister said:


Have you tried this tool (which they rent for free)? It always worked great for me, although on one of them I had to slightly enlarge the holes to fit my lug pattern. I can't imagine that not doing the trick, especially if combined with penetrating oil and an impact wrench. (Also make sure the threads on the tool are clean and well-lubed -- this goes for any tool with a forcing screw.)

I've heard bad things about aftermarket axles causing vibrations and such. I'd lean toward replacing the CV joint if needed and keeping the OE axle shaft.

The ABS tone ring could be on the axle, the brake rotor, or the bearing, and may or may not be available separately. A service manual (or model-specific forum, Youtube, etc.) would be helpful.


Yeah, I tried that tool, didn't work.

I'll keep that in mind about the aftermarket axle.


Would you mind taking a photo and posting?

I just want to confirm there's not an axle nut or c clip you haven't removed.
.
MouthBQ98
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I have a Nissan 4x4 and the front CV just come right on out once I have removed the c-clips and etc from the outside. There's nothing else really retaining it. On my truck, the ABS ring is a separate piece, but a Sentra and Xterra are two quite different rides.
redd38
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Esteban du Plantier said:

redd38 said:

Drewmeister said:


Have you tried this tool (which they rent for free)? It always worked great for me, although on one of them I had to slightly enlarge the holes to fit my lug pattern. I can't imagine that not doing the trick, especially if combined with penetrating oil and an impact wrench. (Also make sure the threads on the tool are clean and well-lubed -- this goes for any tool with a forcing screw.)

I've heard bad things about aftermarket axles causing vibrations and such. I'd lean toward replacing the CV joint if needed and keeping the OE axle shaft.

The ABS tone ring could be on the axle, the brake rotor, or the bearing, and may or may not be available separately. A service manual (or model-specific forum, Youtube, etc.) would be helpful.


Yeah, I tried that tool, didn't work.

I'll keep that in mind about the aftermarket axle.


Would you mind taking a photo and posting?

I just want to confirm there's not an axle nut or c clip you haven't removed.


I definitely took the axle nut off, I looked for a c clip or something on the back and didn't see anything. I'll get a picture of it.
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