2006 Exporer 4.0 V6 noise

1,607 Views | 25 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by 1agswitchin4lanes
Presley OBannons Sword
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My wife's 06 6Explorer started making a rattling/ticking noise when she starts it. Seems to go away after the engine is warm. Google has led me to believe it's lifters. Anything else it might be? How can I troubleshoot?

Thanks guys
Presley OBannons Sword
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that didn't work

anyone know an easy video hosting site?
Presley OBannons Sword
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see if this works

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=08405633884507647035
TexAg1987
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Sounds like an exhaust leak in that video.
nomad2007
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AG
If it is a valve lifter, which it sort of sounds like, when was the last oil/oil filter change? Sometimes the oil pressure is poor and the lifters make noise until the oil pressure builds up. That could be why it goes away after the car warms up.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Could be an exhaust leak. Can you post a clip of it revving?
Presley OBannons Sword
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Not sure when last oil change was, but within 3k miles. Probably 1500.

I'll get a revving video posted
Presley OBannons Sword
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update - couldn't get it to do it again. my wife took that video yesterday morning, but when I was home last night it wouldn't do it. I'm guessing it had something to do with her driving around all day and hot weather. however, what it DID do was a very loud squeal from the belt. seems like a strange coincidence, but I wouldn't think those two noises would be related (?). I replaced the idler pulley, thinking that's what it was, but it didn't fix the problem. the belt looks ok, but maybe I should replace it too?
TexAg1987
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I have read that there is a problem with cracked exhaust manifolds on some of that model. Not sure if the same engine. When it does it again open the hood and listen. Mainly on passenger side. They say it is common for it to go away once warm.
nomad2007
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AG
TexAg1987 said:

I have read that there is a problem with cracked exhaust manifolds on some of that model. Not sure if the same engine. When it does it again open the hood and listen. Mainly on passenger side. They say it is common for it to go away once warm.
Yea, if there is a fairly small leak in the manifold, it should go away once the manifold metal heats up and expands. That makes sense.
Presley OBannons Sword
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soon after I made this post, the noise turned into an extremely loud squeal coming from the front of the engine. thinking it was one of the usual culprits, I replaced the idler pulley and tensioner, but the noise didn't go away. after further research, I determined that it was the harmonic balancer. I plan on tackling this on Saturday. any tips from anyone who has done this before? first time for me.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Presley OBannons Sword said:

soon after I made this post, the noise turned into an extremely loud squeal coming from the front of the engine. thinking it was one of the usual culprits, I replaced the idler pulley and tensioner, but the noise didn't go away. after further research, I determined that it was the harmonic balancer. I plan on tackling this on Saturday. any tips from anyone who has done this before? first time for me.
Theres an excellent writeup here.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/sohc-v6-timing-chain-inspection-repair.287416/#post-2509603
Presley OBannons Sword
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Quote:

The easiest way to loosen the bolt is with an impact wrench but that usually requires removal of the radiator for access. Also, the SOHC V6 engine timing chains are susceptible to slipping when the engine is rotated counter-clockwise. Another method that some members have used is to install a large breaker bar with socket onto the retaining bolt and wedge the bar in position against the floor or vehicle structural member. Then the starter motor is engaged for just an instant. This method does not risk slipping the timing chain but is rather uncontrolled. A third method is to use a strap wrench attached to the smaller diameter section of the balancer (but not on the timing teeth) to hold the crankshaft from rotating while a breaker bar loosens the balancer bolt. This is the most controlled method but a suitable strap wrench may be expensive and difficult to locate. A fourth (and more crude) method is to utilize a deep jaw pipe wrench. The diameter of the narrow section of the balancer is greater than 4 inches so the depth of the pipe wrench jaws must be greater than 2 inches. It is very important that the jaws do not contact the balancer timing teeth. If they are damaged the engine may not start or run properly. The area between the green arrows in the photo below is where the strap or pipe wrench can be applied. Avoid the area between the red arrows.
recommendation? I really don't want to pull the radiator, but I suppose I can if I must.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Presley OBannons Sword said:

Quote:

The easiest way to loosen the bolt is with an impact wrench but that usually requires removal of the radiator for access. Also, the SOHC V6 engine timing chains are susceptible to slipping when the engine is rotated counter-clockwise. Another method that some members have used is to install a large breaker bar with socket onto the retaining bolt and wedge the bar in position against the floor or vehicle structural member. Then the starter motor is engaged for just an instant. This method does not risk slipping the timing chain but is rather uncontrolled. A third method is to use a strap wrench attached to the smaller diameter section of the balancer (but not on the timing teeth) to hold the crankshaft from rotating while a breaker bar loosens the balancer bolt. This is the most controlled method but a suitable strap wrench may be expensive and difficult to locate. A fourth (and more crude) method is to utilize a deep jaw pipe wrench. The diameter of the narrow section of the balancer is greater than 4 inches so the depth of the pipe wrench jaws must be greater than 2 inches. It is very important that the jaws do not contact the balancer timing teeth. If they are damaged the engine may not start or run properly. The area between the green arrows in the photo below is where the strap or pipe wrench can be applied. Avoid the area between the red arrows.
recommendation? I really don't want to pull the radiator, but I suppose I can if I must.
Might as well.

You can replace the hoses while you're at it too.
Presley OBannons Sword
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if I'm reading that correctly, the retention bolt is threaded normally right, not reverse?
Presley OBannons Sword
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and where do you think I can find a couple of these: M8-1.25 of 90mm or 100mm length
evan_aggie
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AG
My ac compressor front clutch started rattling and making noise/intermittent squeaking. Replaced the entire unit.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Presley OBannons Sword said:

and where do you think I can find a couple of these: M8-1.25 of 90mm or 100mm length
Fastener store
Presley OBannons Sword
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1agswitchin4lanes said:

Presley OBannons Sword said:

and where do you think I can find a couple of these: M8-1.25 of 90mm or 100mm length
Fastener store

Thanks, found some at granger
Presley OBannons Sword
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1ags, thanks for that link. pretty much followed exactly what they said and got the thing backed out pretty easily. I forgot to go get a longer bolt for once I had it bottomed out on the retaining bolt, so I'm going to finish it up tonight. surprisingly not that difficult once I had the right tools. probably saved myself a few hundred bucks, presuming I get it all put back together without any issues.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Presley OBannons Sword said:

1ags, thanks for that link. pretty much followed exactly what they said and got the thing backed out pretty easily. I forgot to go get a longer bolt for once I had it bottomed out on the retaining bolt, so I'm going to finish it up tonight. surprisingly not that difficult once I had the right tools. probably saved myself a few hundred bucks, presuming I get it all put back together without any issues.
Good stuff. Hopefully she will serve you well for many more miles!
Presley OBannons Sword
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just as a PSA, I will say that the fan clutch bolt remover kit from autozone was pretty much garbage. the bigger wrench that held the screws worked ok, but the one for the nut was junk. ended up buying a 1 3/8" wrench from harbor freight and grinding it to the correct size to fit.
Presley OBannons Sword
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Well I ****ed something up. Put it all back together, then truck struggled to start. Let it run for a minute and tried to drive, and I can't get it to do anything past idle.
Presley OBannons Sword
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Throwing p2104 and p2112
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Did you disconnect the throttle body?

Those are for the throttle.

Disconnect negative terminal and turn key to run and turn on headlights.

Wait 20 mins.

May be a good idea to clean the throttle body too. Dont use carb cleaner, buy TB cleaner.

Turn key off and headlights off, reconnect battery and start truck, let idle one minute with AC off. Put truck in drive, foot on brake, one minute. Put truck in park, turn AC on, idle one minute, put in drive, food on brake, AC on, then drive around and see what happens.
Presley OBannons Sword
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Thanks dude. I'll report back


And no, I didn't mess with the throttle body at all
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Presley OBannons Sword said:

Thanks dude. I'll report back


And no, I didn't mess with the throttle body at all
If you disconnected the battery, the throttle learning may be off due to gunk/deposits in the TB.
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