new new project teaser

4,199 Views | 22 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by moore42
moore42
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AG
I couldnt bump up my old thread "New project teaser" since its been over a year since posting. So here is a new thread for the next major mod(s) to my 02 Z06.



THIS:


Worked most of the weekend to drop out the entire drivetrain, headers, clutch and brake pedals, etc.

I had already purchased an RPM level X 4L60e with transbrake (that I'll likely never use).

Got a guy in Austin that im trading some parts with to finish this out - 3200 vigilante stall, torque tube for automatic, trans brace

I also just recently finished a supercharger rebuild which put me up to about 15 psi boost. Now I need new injectors since my duty cycle was 101%.

Silvy
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AG
What size is the TC?
moore42
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9.5" single disc
moore42
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Slowly making progress. This weekend it should be nearly complete.

Completed so far:
auto harness re-installed
flex plate installed on crank
quick time blowproof bellhousing bolted up, not completely installed (dreading the top bolts)
Transmission mounted to rear diff
stall converter (filled with fluid) and slid onto transmission input shaft
Torque tube rebuilt
filled transmission while its out
filled rear diff while its out

Remaining tasks:
weld bracket for shift cable
test fit headers with bellhousing in place, grind bellhousing if necessary
finish bolting up bellhousing
RPM jumper harness pinned out
RPM neutral safety switch jumper harness wired up
wire up transbrake that I will likely NOT use at the strip
mount ****** cooler under passenger headlight
route ****** cooling lines in the transmission tunnel
Install N2MB 2 step wired to brake switch
Bigger 750cc fuel injectors
replace intake manifold gasket
Reinstall headers
Test fit exhaust - may not fit because cutouts are located where the deep transmission pan now sits
startup tune
test start
fill transmission
test drive



Tree Hugger
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AG
Here is your original teaser thread:

https://texags.com/forums/46/topics/2684649/replies
aggieforester05
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What did you do to the V2 to up the boost, just a pulley? Was it in need of a rebuild or were there some internal upgrades? I'm pushing about 12 psi right now with a 3.48" pulley, but on a little 4.6. I know of at least one 4.6 car that's pushing around 18-19 with a 2.875" pulley. What I'd really like to do is a wastegate setup with a much smaller pulley, but same maximum boost, to spool up faster.

Will your internals hang on for awhile at 15 psi?

Selling the T-56?
moore42
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moore42
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aggieforester05 said:

What did you do to the V2 to up the boost, just a pulley? Was it in need of a rebuild or were there some internal upgrades? I'm pushing about 12 psi right now with a 3.48" pulley, but on a little 4.6. I know of at least one 4.6 car that's pushing around 18-19 with a 2.875" pulley. What I'd really like to do is a wastegate setup with a much smaller pulley, but same maximum boost, to spool up faster.

Will your internals hang on for awhile at 15 psi?

Selling the T-56?
My V2 was purchased used and was near 10 years old. It was starting to leak oil from the input shaft, so it needed new seals at a minimum. I had the V2 rebuilt by 928 motorsports, including high speed ceramic bearings good for 72k rpms. They also put in their impeller, which flows more than the 'S' trim that I had in it, similar to a Ti. That's where the increase in boost came from. I am still running a 3.33" drive pulley, still only turning 56k rpms (see upgrades below to rectify that situation).

The stock internals will be fine with a safe tune. I am pretty much maxed out with the stock cam and heads. Any more boost than that on the current setup (93 octane and Meth injection), and I need to forge the bottom end.

I sold the T56 to a local guy that owns Texas Drivetrain Performance. He is gonna build and sell.

My future plans after i finish this auto swap and get a roll cage in it are something along the lines of this:
1. Boost cam (which includes all the upgrades and maintenance while im in there, HV oil pump, water pump)
2. E85 conversion and ditch the methanol injection system
3. Head work/new heads
4. Then I can pulley down somewhat. Still will be running on the edge, but able to flow better.
5. Run it till it cant handle it, then build a forged motor.
6. Still cant decide if I want more cubic inches, or just stick with a forged 347 that's been proven to make 1000+ reliably.
Silvy
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While headwork would be beneficial, I don't think it's going to really be holding you back.

The vid I posted of dude in the Colorado breaking 1000 RWHP has stock 317 heads which have the same valve sizes/flow characteristics of 243/799 heads, the 317 just has a larger combustion chamber.
Duncan Idaho
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Damn Gina. Good on you
CATAGBQ04
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moore42
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Transmission oil cooler (B&M model 70297) mounted below passenger side headlight.



More pics to follow.
moore42
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Kinda left this thread hanging. Here is whats happened in the last month+:

The last week of may, I got the transmission mounted and verified that the car would actually start and go through the gears, I had to remove the cutouts from my exhaust as they no longer fit. So i took the midpipes to the muffler shop and paid them $30 to patch up the holes.

Then I got it driveable, but had a few issues: 1) reverse takes exactly 7 count to engage. Park to reverse or neutral to reverse, move gear selector, count to 7. 2) Torque converter stopped locking up.

Fast forward about a week:

The torque converter issue was simply low fluid level. I put the car back on jack stands again and checked it and was able to add another 1/2 quart or so.

However, the reverse issue required that I pull the transmission again. I am getting pretty good at dropping the drivetrain. I had the car on jack stands in 15 minutes, had the drivetrain on the ground 1 hour later, and the transmission separated, drained, and loaded in my truck in another 30 minutes.

Local transmission guy figured out the issue. There were several with this transmission that I bought second hand but was supposedly just refreshed, the main issues being that one of the ball checks was in the wrong place and that the input drum had no seal. The steels on the reverse clutches were worn (but it had new frictions???). All of that was contributing to fluid leaking by and it took time to build enough pressure for reverse to actually lock in.

Put everything back together this weekend and mounted it up. Filled it with fluid, checked it after going through the gears several times on jack stands, allowing time for fluid to work through everything. I also verified that the transbrake works (on jack stands, too scared to actually use it on pavement).

I then drove it around the neighborhood and then down the highway for a few miles. Everything appears to be running well.

Right now it's back on jack stands cause I want to check the fluid level one more time. These things are so finnicky about fluid level.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: This thing hauls! It just squats and goes. I cant believe how much momentum was lost shifting gears, now its (near) seamless. Just normal driving is so much quicker to highway speed than it was with a manual. Anything more than half throttle is instant tire spin, however. I was able to hook up on one concrete road 2nd through 3rd gear (to about 110), and it was damn fast. Looking forward to going full throttle soon!

TEASER VIDS:





Coming up: finish street tune and then get a track tune done here locally. Track tune is required to nail the shift points since most street runs will be spinning. Then drive the piss out of it and see how long this 4L60e holds up.
Silvy
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Hell yes bro, good to hear the trans issue wasn't a big fix. I know them feels on the trans fluid, I just came in from getting my trans up to a satisfactory level as well. I can't drive to get it all the way up to temp, but it should be damn close!
moore42
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Latest Update: So the last month or so I have been fighting a few issues with the cooling lines. i ran braided tubing and it failed almost immediately. Twice.

The first time, I was going down the interstate, cruise set at 80 mph and out of nowhere the thickest cloud of smoke appears in the rear view mirror. Yanked it off the side of the interstate and got it in the median. After tow home and some inspection, it appears the tubing had gotten some slack in it, and started rubbing against the headers. Turns out that hot headers and braided tubing dont mix too well, and the result is spraying transmission fluid all over hot headers - SMOKE. Luckily, it didnt burn to the ground.

So i fixed that issue and rerouted the tubing slightly and went out again. I notice a trail of fluid behind me as I'm pulling back in and sure enough, the tubing is leaking again. Turns out it was leaking from one of the Summit AN hose ends. I have read lots of issues with Summit AN fittings (chinese crap). Dont buy the cheapest, folks.

So I decided to hell with the braided tubing and I ran hard tubing from the ****** to the cooler and back.

I havent had any fluid issues since then.

A few days of street driving and beating the piss out of it to make sure it was good.

So yesterday I was able to get to the track and do my track tuning. Track night was bittersweet, I made some test passes to shake the car down and figure out shift points. I wasnt exacty pushing it hard off the line, leaving off idle. The car was getting faster after each pass, however, on the 4th pass, I lost fuel and went WAY lean after the 1/8th mile. Out of time for the night, so brought it home.

Today I put it back on jack stands and started troubleshooting. My first thought was the boost a pump. But I tested it and so far its good. I jumpered the Hobbes switch (boost pressure switch) and it immediately was putting 18V to the fuel pump. So i think the BAP is good.

So I went to the Alky Control methanol injection. When i touched the signal wire from the MAP to the Alky Control module, it came loose. I repaired the wire tap and soldered it all back together. I hope that fixes the problem, more testing to follow.

TLDR - the transmission is doing great! This thing flat out hauls!

Here's some videos of the night:

My best pass (10.45@135.6)



Heres a fun one: I got paired up next to an alcohol dragster. He ran a 6.50 after letting off at the 1000'. I ran a 10.59 after letting off at the 1000'. I was entranced at the starting line to say the least.



Here was my last pass, i tested the 2 step for the first time and had it set really low (like 2000 rpms). Need to bump it up. This is also where I lost fuel and went super lean on the top end.





Silvy
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AG
Very nice

I think you should get a transbrake to go with the 2 step.
moore42
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silverado_lover said:

Very nice

I think you should get a transbrake to go with the 2 step.
Ive got it. Just afraid of breaking stuff.
PMD03
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Running a 10.59 after that dragster is pretty good. I would have not been watching the lights in that situation.
moore42
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PMD03 said:

Running a 10.59 after that dragster is pretty good. I would have not been watching the lights in that situation.
He cut a .004 light. I was completely entranced and then remembered "Holy ****, i gotta go too!"
aggieforester05
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Very nice, that thing is quick!

Do you ever have any belt slippage with that blower? I think mine just started slipping. It only happens when I've been driving it for awhile out in the heat and it actually seems more likely to happen when I haven't been beating on it. It feels like I'm losing major power from about 2,500 - 4,000 rpms, where it hooks up and goes like a scalded ape. It happens in first - third gear, don't really get the other two up to those rpms. Just wondering if it's definitely a belt issue or something else. What lead you to rebuilding the blower? My V2 should have under 20K total miles, with about 8,800 on my car. I've had zero issues with this setup otherwise. My peak boost according to the boost gauge has also decreased from 11psi to 9psi. A/F Ratio is still rich (High 10s at redline), but always has been with this Brenspeed mail order tune.
moore42
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I don't really have an issue with belt slip. I've got an 8 rib setup and the A&A bracketry puts quite a bit of belt wrap around the blower pulley.

As far as why I rebuilt, that's an embarrassing story. I first rebuilt it myself because it was leaking oil from the input shaft seal. So I figured while I was changing seals, might as well put in high speed ceramic bearings. But I put them in backwards for thrust.... and it pushed the impeller into the scroll the first time I got into boost.

So I sent it off to 928 motorsports and had the scroll machined and a their new trim installed. Their trim is comparable to a T or Ti. so I got a little more boost out of it, about 14 psi.
moore42
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Time for another update. I want to be cool like Silvy and have 1 ongoing thread dedicated to each of my vehicles.

I never did completely figure out the fuel pressure issue. I added a fuel pressure transducer so that I could start tracking it with HP Tuners. I also put in a safe tune that cut out timing under boost (running about 10 Deg) so that even if I did lose fuel pressure, there shouldnt be any harm. I also took my fuel canister and made it look like swiss cheese, thinking that maybe i wasnt getting enough fuel to the pump after the initial hit.

I drove it like that for 2 months and never repeated the problem. So, Im not 100% sure that its fixed, but it hasnt repeated the issue either.

I went to the track yesterday cause we finally got some good air...and I just happened to be lucky that North Star Dragway was open for test and tune on a sunday.

This thing is still getting faster. My best 60' came off the trailer and with nothing more than pushing against the converter, then standing on it at green. 1.5039 secs was the 60'

I tried my 2 step several times, increasing the rpm until I was pushing through the brakes and still never beat that 1.5039. Closest I got was 1.5395, still not bad.

So the lesson learned was to just forget the 2 step and leave the lights just flashing the converter.

As the day progressed and i wasnt having fuel pressure problems, I kept increasing timing, making my way back towards the "kill tune" from my last track outing. Everything seemed to be in-line and it was running good. My best pass was a 6.386@111.22 mph, 1/8th mile of course. Here is the video from that run.

Silvy
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moore42 said:

Time for another update. I want to be cool like Silvy and have 1 ongoing thread dedicated to each of my vehicles.
Some day, bruh

Now let's see what that trans brake do!
moore42
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silverado_lover said:


Now let's see what that trans brake do!
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