Hand sprayed a bunch of brush April 5 with Remedy plus.
When I can I cut it down? The tops are brittle, they snap and break off. The middle branches don't snap. I lopperd them off but still looks a little green around the perimeter of the slice. Wont snap off. Four months later?

I've always heard not to touch it for a year, but not sure if that is correct.

agneck said:

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Hand sprayed a bunch of brush April 5 with Remedy plus.
When I can I cut it down? The tops are brittle, they snap and break off. The middle branches don't snap. I lopperd them off but still looks a little green around the perimeter of the slice. Wont snap off. Four months later?

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Let the cows knock them over. If you try to cut them when they are still green, you won't get a good kill.

I've only used the stuff with reclaim for mesquite and they turn brown and brittle weeks after spraying but I typically leave them alone and wait until the spring to see if they are actually dead. If it doesn't sprout I think it's good but I'd err on the wait and see side.

I spray small saplings that regrow in our fields with Remedy Plus and a surfactant. All the old timers up here have told me not to bush hog them for about 9-11 months later. Seems to work.

I have used Remedy but have not heard of Remedy plus?? Google did not pop anything up. I am looking to spay some fence line this weekend.

RFD said:

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I have used Remedy but have not heard of Remedy plus?? Google did not pop anything up. I am looking to spay some fence line this weekend.

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I think the new name is "Remedy Ultra", and the change was no more than going from a petroleum based carrier, to a vegetable-oil based carrier. Same percentage of triclopyr.

Gunny456 said:

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I spray small saplings that regrow in our fields with Remedy Plus and a surfactant. All the old timers up here have told me not to bush hog them for about 9-11 months later. Seems to work.

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Basal application, or foliar? We have never explored using anything but the Remedy/diesel mix (no surfactant needed), and applied on the bark of what needs killin'.

This fall I will try something new (for us), on huisache, the foliar application of Grazon P+D.
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BRUSH BUSTERS LEAF SPRAY METHOD Works well on: Huisache that have good leaf canopy and are less than 6 feet tall. This method is also known as high-volume foliar spraying. When to apply: Begin in September after any late-summer growth has stopped, indicated by no new leaf growth at the end of stems. Good soil moisture and mature, healthy leaves are necessary for improved plant kill. Continue until November or when the soil temperature drops below 75F at 12 inches deep.

My bad on the name. OP said Remedy Plus and I knew we were not using the regular old Remedy so I said Plus.
Went to the barn and its Remedy Ultra.
I mix it with a good non ionic surfactant.
Boom spray it out of a 300gal sprayer. The pastures had 2-3ft little white oaks, red oaks, and sycamore. Very thick, like 8-10" apart. 70-80 acres per pasture full of the damn little trees. Bush hogging them just made them worse so we started spraying. Have got good kills.

I wait a year and snap the stem off at ground level then toss them into the fire pit.

This is for mesquite.

Want faster results? Cut the stem at the ground then apply Remedy with diesel or a surfactant of your choice.

I started spraying our fence lines with a product called Erasure. Mainly to kill weeds and grass along our pipe fences so I don't have to weed eat. It is supposed to last for a year and kill anything. It has worked really well but I haven't tried it on any woody stuff. Are you familiar with it? If so will it kill the woody stuff? TIA!

Eraser A/P? A Martin product? If so, it's just a generic glyphosate product, and only works on existing foliar targets, no residual activity, so any claim of "good for a year" is very misleading.

GSS said:

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Gunny456 said:

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I spray small saplings that regrow in our fields with Remedy Plus and a surfactant. All the old timers up here have told me not to bush hog them for about 9-11 months later. Seems to work.

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Basal application, or foliar? We have never explored using anything but the Remedy/diesel mix (no surfactant needed), and applied on the bark of what needs killin'.

This fall I will try something new (for us), on huisache, the foliar application of Grazon P+D.
-----------------------------------

BRUSH BUSTERS LEAF SPRAY METHOD Works well on: Huisache that have good leaf canopy and are less than 6 feet tall. This method is also known as high-volume foliar spraying. When to apply: Begin in September after any late-summer growth has stopped, indicated by no new leaf growth at the end of stems. Good soil moisture and mature, healthy leaves are necessary for improved plant kill. Continue until November or when the soil temperature drops below 75F at 12 inches deep.

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Foliar application is immensely cheaper. The drawback is you have to spray every single leaf you see. If there's one under a clump of grass you miss, it will survive. But, if you spray that stem next year, you should kill the whole thing.

Typically you will get a 70%-80% kill on foliar. That's good as long as you do the follow-up spraying the next year. There's a reason this is called brush management and not brush eradication.

Gunny456 said:

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I started spraying our fence lines with a product called Erasure. Mainly to kill weeds and grass along our pipe fences so I don't have to weed eat. It is supposed to last for a year and kill anything. It has worked really well but I haven't tried it on any woody stuff. Are you familiar with it? If so will it kill the woody stuff? TIA!

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I'm one of those that doesn't have a problem with grasses in fence lines. Personally, I think it looks more natural. And if you keep a good grass stand, that is cheaper in the long run to keeping weeds and brush out of fence lines.

Same here, fenceline weed control, absolutely, but grasses can remain. I use a 2,4-D based product, Patriot if you don't have a license.
In the immediate yard, my bride uses a glyphosate product, for borders and driveway edges.

No. This
https://www.controlsolutionsinc.com/martins/products/eraser-maxx
Specifically says good for a year in their product literature above.

As I said I don't want to weed eat down my fence line for a little over 1/2 mile down my driveway so want to control everything. Also around my barns, round pens, and horse barns.
My back no longer will take a full day of weed eating.

Wait one year and look for resprouts and missed trees.

Thanks. Appreciate it as usual sir!

The Imazapyr addition adds the residual control, the Tractor Supply RM43 product is basically the same.
No idea if the Imazapyr comes with any concerns (desirable trees and landscaping).

Thanks. Our ranch and feed supply store has a pretty knowledgeable herbicide guy. He told me not to put within the drip line of any trees or desirable shrubs.
I have a co-op discount with them so it works out cheaper than the TSC stuff… but thank you for the help. I am much obliged.

Anyone had luck with any of the above being applied to palmetto?

i shredded brush as best i could then sprayed cuttings with remedy & a surfactant. did I do it wrong?

cptthunder said:

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Anyone had luck with any of the above being applied to palmetto?

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Extenstion rec - metsulfuron methyl dicamba:2,4-D (1:3)

page 35 -https://stephenville.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2020/12/ERM-1466-Chemical-Weed-Brush-Control-Reference-Guide.pdf

trade name would be cimmeron max

see the comments for rates and when to apply, it's a tough one

oh no said:

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i shredded brush as best i could then sprayed cuttings with remedy & a surfactant. did I do it wrong?

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Whenever I use remedy or reclaim for mesquite or huisache (I don't know what your target species is).....

For foliar sprays: I use surfactants, dye, and my chemical mix. Spray every leaf that exists on the plant almost to runoff, but not to runoff.

For stump or basal treatments: Whatever my concoction is for the target, I use dye and diesel for the carrier as it penetrates to through the system where the plant can use it.

If you sprayed immediately after shredding, and just used a surfactant, my opinion is that yes, it will work, but I don't think it is as effective. I have poured remedy/reclaim directly on a fresh cut stump of a huge mesquit tree and it killed it dead, no diesel, no surfactant, just straight herbicide.

GSS said:

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The Imazapyr addition adds the residual control, the Tractor Supply RM43 product is basically the same.
No idea if the Imazapyr comes with any concerns (desirable trees and landscaping).

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Imazapyr does several things very well, and foremost amongst those are controlling hardwood trees. But the amount in the Eraser Maxx is 1/64th of 4 lb imazapyr. So i wouldnt use it repeatedly under any oak trees in my yard, its fine along non-sensitive areas.

It works, but it's expensive as hell. That's why the standard mix is 75% diesel/oil, 25% Remedy.

I just tried to buy some reclaim to mix with my remedy, tractor supply does not carry it anymore. I was unsuccessful trying to find some online, where does one go about buying it these days??

Any good feed store should have it.

HTownAg98 said:

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It works, but it's expensive as hell. That's why the standard mix is 75% diesel/oil, 25% Remedy.

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I'm confused on which part you were talking about. What is expensive? The foliar option with remedy and reclaim?

Using straight Remedy as a stump treatment.

Just tried a few around me and they all report it is no longer available.

Looks like Reclaim is no more. There is "Reclaim II", which is a different formulation (aminopyralid/metsulfuron, vs. the original, which was clopyralid).

Generic "clopyralid" is available online, though.

https://chemicalwarehouse.com/products/clopyralid-3?variant=15553475346495&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19408248387&gbraid=0AAAAADnQdt4UuLTZC-noBF_rJSlbsXOcm&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ofrw9LyjgMVpVB_AB09CzEPEAQYAiABEgKLGvD_BwE

I'm guessing they discontinued it due to most folks using Sendero or Invora for Mesquite, these days, rather than the old Remedy/Reclaim mixture…

HTownAg98 said:

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Using straight Remedy as a stump treatment.

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Oh, yes. For sure. I was only using that as a 'proof' that diesel might not be required so as to set that poster's mind at ease that he may still acquire a kill without a carrier. I only did that on one big mesquite tree. I basically poured a teaspoon or so on the cut stump with no other additives and, well, it died.

But yes, diesel should be used. Even that isn't cheap.

If you've got it on hand, you can even use old motor oil, transmission fluid, or any oil-based product to act as the carrier. A gallon of Remedy/diesel mix goes a long, long way. Unless you have something you can repurpose like drained oil-based fluids, diesel is the cheapest by far.

RFD said:

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Just tried a few around me and they all report it is no longer available.

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Well that sucks. You can get it online from many sources.

As someone on this board posted once, the product works so damn well with few side effects, I'm surprised EPA hasn't found a reason to ban it.