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simple walnut hall table

2,115 Views | 14 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by zooguy96
agrams
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AG
Some projects are fun because they are complicated, some are fun because they are simple. This one was more straightforward and cleaner in style.

This was a hall table designed to match a dining table I made for someone:

the dining table:


the hall table:




roughly 95" long, 16-18" deep, and 36" tall and roughly a hair over 2" thick. The boards were rough 2.5", but over such a long board, it took a good bit of material removal to get them flat and even.

In order to keep the base clean in appearance and not see any hardware, I countersunk a 1" thick board into the underside of the top that secures with four 1/4-20 bolts into threaded inserts in the table:


This keeps the legs going all the way to the underside plane of the top and nothing sticking out.

I also used a different finish than normal. Typically I use a lot of water based conversion varnishes or lacquers. This one I went with a solvent based pre-cat lacquer. It goes on a lot smoother, dries a LOT faster, but boy you better have a mask on and some good ventilation or you are going to be seeing the rainbow. It took some tuning the spray guns, but once I got them figured out the finish went on extremely smooth with no need for any touchup.
BradMtn346
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Show off.
Hot Corner
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AG
Nice work! I like it.
dirkjones
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dtkprowler
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AG
ah yes..... simple....
Aggie12B
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AG
Even your "simple projects" are gorgeous.
Always love it when you post pictures of your projects.

Just out of curiosity, how much would a similar hall table run?
h1ag
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AG
I'm looking at bandsaws right now, so I'm curious, what kind of resaw capability did you need for that table? It looks like options are 6" up to 12" (with riser) at one price point (<1.5K), then a big jump in cost to get to the 16"+ range (5K+).

Obviously, the table halves are >12" ea., but I'm wondering how high I'd have to go to be able to tackle something like that myself.
agrams
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AG
I bought the boards as a bookmatch, I did not resaw a larger piece. there's a risk resawing larger boards in half as they often have residual stress and a flat board can yield 2 twisted/deformed bookmatch boards.
h1ag
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AG
Thanks for the clarification!
Gunny456
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AG
Beautiful!
vmiaptetr
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AG
What is the brand of lacquer that your mentioned?
milner79
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For the uninitiated who can only stand in awe of craftsmanship like this, what tool is used to "clean out" the space for the sunken 1by? Looks way too clean for a hammer and chisel. Nice work.
Rattler12
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agrams said:

Some projects are fun because they are complicated, some are fun because they are simple. This one was more straightforward and cleaner in style.

This was a hall table designed to match a dining table I made for someone:

the dining table:


the hall table:




roughly 95" long, 16-18" deep, and 36" tall and roughly a hair over 2" thick. The boards were rough 2.5", but over such a long board, it took a good bit of material removal to get them flat and even.

In order to keep the base clean in appearance and not see any hardware, I countersunk a 1" thick board into the underside of the top that secures with four 1/4-20 bolts into threaded inserts in the table:


This keeps the legs going all the way to the underside plane of the top and nothing sticking out.

I also used a different finish than normal. Typically I use a lot of water based conversion varnishes or lacquers. This one I went with a solvent based pre-cat lacquer. It goes on a lot smoother, dries a LOT faster, but boy you better have a mask on and some good ventilation or you are going to be seeing the rainbow. It took some tuning the spray guns, but once I got them figured out the finish went on extremely smooth with no need for any touchup.

How much is epoxy going for these days?
agrams
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AG
vmiaptetr: gem coat, their pre-cat.

milner79: router with a plunge bit/guide fence. I did the lines on the edge with that, then did the majority of material removal with a forstern bit, and cleaned up the bottom with the router bit set to the right depth, then square up the corners with a hammer and chisel. This star inlay in the wood was all cleaned up and done by chisel/hammer:




Chisel can be very clean if you mark it and take your time.

rattler12: about 80$ a gallon. It went up about 10$ a gallon on my last purchase.
zooguy96
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If that is "simple", I'd like to see what complex is.

Gorgeous as always.

I'll never be able to afford an agrams anything.

Maybe I can develop the skills and buy the tools to be 1/100 of talented.
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