We have a smaller Wylie sprayer (max hydraulic psi 120 psi), and a John Deere 6105D. For the spraying we have been doing, we have choked back the hydraulic pressure with the valves on the tractor to run the sprayer, however, it causes the tractor to heat up. So my question to the all knowing OB, what options are out there to regulate down hydraulic pressure to the sprayer that is not holding back pressure to the tractor?

- Third party added system to feed the sprayer?
- Larger (psi) pump on the sprayer?
- Other?

TIA

Your tractor is an open flow hydraulic system. Running an Ace pump or any constant flow pump is going to cause it to over heat and shell your hydraulic motor. Your hydraulic filters are probably black and look like they're about to bust at the seams. I know on the M series there is an 3.5 gallon auxiliary hydraulic tank to combat this, but I don't think its an option for the D series.

JD, thanks for the feedback. If you, or anyone has any ideas on additions/replacements to get this lined out, I would appreciate it.

Additionally, is it the hydraulic fluid that is heating up? If so, could we put a hydraulic oil cooler on?

sawem,

I don't have my parts books [some of us still use books?] handy, and but you might want to check into piping a hydraulic unloader into the output line to bypass fluid past a certain pressure.

I don't know that this would work, and it might be hard on the unloader to use it like that, but we used unloaders with high pressure pressure washer systems with constant displacement pumps.

OTOH, I may be way off here. I've been out in the sun working all day and my body needs to 'chill'. Probably my brain, too.

Thanks ribeye. It looks like the sibling versions (6100D and 6110D) come with an oil cooler mounted just below the radiator. https://www.abilenemachine.com/radiator-amsj26167

Do you have the specs on the Wylie system and tractor? I design hydraulic systems and if you give me this info I can figure it out.

Depending on the sprayer you might be able to buy a PTO pump to use instead of the tractor hydraulics.

Some hydraulic motors also utilize a zero pressure sump return instead of the return line going into hydraulic remote. I'm not sure on your model if it has a sump return plug on the back, but if it does, you may be able to buy fittings for the hose and tractor and use it that way.

I would call Wylie or your local Deere dealer and see what they can tell you.

Wylie has this pump: John Blue DP-392 Diaphragm Pump
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.johnblue.com/pumps/sprayer-applications/spray-pumps/dp392-pump-manual.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjcj-GNworrAhUSKawKHfGLDzAQFjABegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw1uPU5JiaIqOnA1PKbmsaAR

JD 6105D has this pump; SJ22676
John Deere 6105D Hydraulic System

Hydraulic System Type - Open Center
Main Hydraulic Pump Type - Triple gear pump
Implement Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - 20 (75.7)
Optional Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - No option
Number of Standard Remote Valves - 2 std; 3rd opt.

Upon further review, it does have a hydraulic oil cooler in front of the radiator. I'm still looking, but I did not see a fan in front of these...

I"m going to ask a dumb question, but why are you trying to restrict flow? To reduce pressure or flow on the sprayer output? If so, then make changes (nozzles, regulator, bypass, etc.) on the spray side, not the hydraulic side. That's a whole lot cheaper and easier than tractor repairs.

If you don't restrict flow on the tractor side you over pressure the sprayer pump and blow out the seals.

10-4. I've only ever used pto pumps, so I was scratching my head. I'd have figured the pump on the sprayer would be rated for this. Sounds like an unloaded is the ticket.

I'm confused by this, I've run hydraulic Ace spray pumps for decades with no problem. I simply adjust the flow through the remotes by changing the valve on the back of the tractor, and there is a needle valve on the pump as well.

https://www.acepumps.com/en/index.php?/site/products/C4/Hydraulic

Quote:

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Ace developed the first hydraulic motor driven pump at the request of John Deere in 1969. Many of the original pumps are still operating today after more than 30 years of service.

The 204 motor requires 4 GPM(15.1 LPM) maximum hydraulic fluid input.
Recommended for:

• Pressure Compensating Closed Center Systems
• Open Center Systems up to 13 GPM (49.2 LPM) using internal needle valve bypass.

---

https://www.acepumps.com/_Assets/Literature/HYD-MAN%20REV%2012-11.pdf

Instruction manual, how to set up pumps for different hydraulic systems.

you probably need to set up a case drain, direct to sump. call your service manager at your local dealer for help. your owners manual may touch on this as well.

I appreciate all the input. Ag related hydraulics is not my strong suit. Just trying to help the ranch manager. Holding back pressure with the tractor valves, to run the pump, causes the oil/transmission begin to overheat. I'm trying to figure it out as well. Trying to find the best/value option.

CanyonAg77 said:

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I'm confused by this, I've run hydraulic Ace spray pumps for decades with no problem. I simply adjust the flow through the remotes by changing the valve on the back of the tractor, and there is a needle valve on the pump as well.

https://www.acepumps.com/en/index.php?/site/products/C4/Hydraulic

Quote:

---

Ace developed the first hydraulic motor driven pump at the request of John Deere in 1969. Many of the original pumps are still operating today after more than 30 years of service.

The 204 motor requires 4 GPM(15.1 LPM) maximum hydraulic fluid input.
Recommended for:

• Pressure Compensating Closed Center Systems
• Open Center Systems up to 13 GPM (49.2 LPM) using internal needle valve bypass.

---

https://www.acepumps.com/_Assets/Literature/HYD-MAN%20REV%2012-11.pdf

Instruction manual, how to set up pumps for different hydraulic systems.

---

JD's in 1969 all had closed center hydraulics, correct?

I think the open center hydraulic pump is a simple, constant displacement model - when you restrict flow, the pressure (and heat) increases. Closed center units have a variable displacement pump IIRC.

If that's the case, a swap to a PTO roller pump is going to be the cheapest solution IMO.

Literature for that pump says you can use with open or closed systems