Steel building cost?

2,047 Views | 30 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by schmellba99
Joe Exotic
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DFW area

40'x30' steel building. Concrete foundation, including electric/lighting, 30'x12' concrete driveway approach, 12'x10' roll up door, 10'x8' roll up door, two walkout doors,.
ttha_aggie_09
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Burn down your studio again, Joe?
AgEng06
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ttha_aggie_09 said:

Burn down your studio again, Joe?

But did the gators make it this time?
Roger That
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60k.
Whitetail
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I'd budget $25/sq ft building + $5/sq ft slab + $10k electrical.

~42k would be my guess.
Capt. Augustus McCrae
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Check the septic tank
Corps_Ag12
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Whitetail said:

I'd budget $25/sq ft building + $5/sq ft slab + $10k electrical.

~42k would be my guess.

Concrete will probably run you closer to $8.50 SF for a foundation. Flatwork is around $4.50 SF.
Whitetail
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Corps_Ag12 said:

Whitetail said:

I'd budget $25/sq ft building + $5/sq ft slab + $10k electrical.

~42k would be my guess.

Concrete will probably run you closer to $8.50 SF for a foundation. Flatwork is around $4.50 SF.


The building slab was included in my $25 sqft. $5 was my estimate for what you called 'flatwork'.
Joe Exotic
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I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.
toolshed
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Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!
Corps_Ag12
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Ah, gotcha. Apologies. I got some estimates a few weeks ago in DFW so just wanted to share.
cadetjay02
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This guy did my shop slab, my neighbor's driveway, and another neighbors shop. He's out of Aubrey

Bubba is a good dude.

https://m.facebook.com/BubbaBland33/
CanyonAg77
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Amarillo area. 30x40, insulated, one 14' x 15' roll up door. One walk in door. Thick foundation, stats escape me as to how thick now. Four skylight window high in side walls. No approach concrete, no electricity.

$35/sq. ft.

https://texags.com/forums/34/topics/3031202/1

Mine was finished a year ago tomorrow. Above thread is the time lapse of construction.
Col. Steve Austin
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I would add a small restroom toilet and sink with on demand water heater. That was missing in our metal building and wished for same on many occasions.
Joe Exotic
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toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.
CanyonAg77
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Quote:

Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.
The difference between a cheap foundation and a good foundation is very little when divided over the life of the structure.

Which, by the way, you can't predict. What if you decide you want to work on a full size tractor in 5 years?
AgEng06
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Joe Exotic said:

toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.
Seems like a 12-gun safe is more than enough as well...
Joe Exotic
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CanyonAg77 said:

Quote:

Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.
The difference between a cheap foundation and a good foundation is very little when divided over the life of the structure.

Which, by the way, you can't predict. What if you decide you want to work on a full size tractor in 5 years?


Why would I have a full size tractor for a 1.5 acre residential tract?
CanyonAg77
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Quote:

Why would I have a full size tractor for a 1.5 acre residential tract?
Never going to have a car in there? Full size truck? Suburban? Restore a Sherman Tank?

Do what you want, it's just cheaper in the long run to build well as opposed to cutting corners/
CharlieBrown17
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toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


I don't always take advice from buildings, but I'd listen to what my toolshed had to say about my shop
toolshed
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Joe Exotic said:

toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.


It's not about what you're parking on it that matters. You have soil movement, wind loads on the building itself that are transferred into the slab, plenty of other things to consider.

Being in DFW, I'd worry that a storm comes through and rips the anchor bolts right out of the slab. If they're anchored in 5" of concrete, simply put, that's not enough.

I'd much rather spend an extra few bucks now than risk the failure, for a number of causes, later.
toolshed
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CharlieBrown17 said:

toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


I don't always take advice from buildings, but I'd listen to what my toolshed had to say about my shop


Nice!
AggieDruggist89
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Built a 20 x 20 metal storage with concrete slab, no electric, no drive way, 1 door and 1 roll up garage door last year.

$18,000.
Joe Exotic
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I'm going with a full foundation. Is it worth having it insulated?
tamc93
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Following since this is on my future project list.
toolshed
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Insulation depends on what you're doing inside of it. If it's a hobby space, I'd want some sort of insulation and a good ridge vent for air flow/ convection. I like the style that you can manually pop up for summer ventilation or close to retain heat in the winter.

Blanket insulation will give you some relief from heat/ cold. Spray foam will give more but may be overkill depending on what you're doing inside.

I only mention full foundation as you'd want some depth to the exterior perimeter of the slab to transfer the loads from the anchor bolts down into some weight/ mass of concrete.

Locally (BCS) I'd do a 24-30" exterior beam, but we tend to have highly expansive clay soils. DFW tends to have a wider range of soil types, so id defer to local tradesmen and building mfg for their recommendation.

When you say metal building, I assume you talking about I beam, weld or bolt up with purlings and R panel?
Ornlu
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Whitetail said:

I'd budget $25/sq ft building + $5/sq ft slab + $10k electrical.

~42k would be my guess.


This is a really good guess. I had a PEMB installer the other day quote me "$0.30 per pound"....

Every little thing escalates the cost drastically. $35/SF base. +$5/SF if you want to hang electrical lights from the rafters. $3/SF for electrical wires. +8/SF for insulation. +$12/SF for heating. Etc.

By the time you're at a "finished" (insulated, AC'd, floored, painted, etc.) It's $110 to $120 per SF.
Gunny456
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I just built a 40 x 40. It cost me $23.00 square foot and that included the slab. Slab had 12" beams around exterior with 4' x 6" piers every 20 ft and corners. 6" slab with rebar and mesh with plastic sheeting to prevent moisture. Electrical included ceiling halogen industrial warehouse lights (4) and 110v 4 gang plugs every 10 ft on two walls and two 220 Volt 50 Amp plugs and cost me $8500..
Building was a weld up and C perlins in lieu of Z and used 12" I Beams for Roof Rafters and columns. Cost did not include the 12' x 12' garage doors but did have two walk in doors.
HarleySpoon
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cadetjay02 said:

This guy did my shop slab, my neighbor's driveway, and another neighbors shop. He's out of Aubrey

Bubba is a good dude.

https://m.facebook.com/BubbaBland33/

I can vouch for Bubba also. Don't let the name fool you....he does a fantastic job, exceedingly honest, and very easy to deal with.
schmellba99
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Joe Exotic said:

toolshed said:

Joe Exotic said:

I'm not sure I'd need a full foundation for a steel building would I? I was thinking just 5" 3000 PSI with #3 "18 OCBW.


No, you will need a full foundation. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the structure!


Seems overkill if the heaviest thing in side will be a zero turn mower.
Don't.Cheap.Out.On.Your.Foundation

And for God's sake, don't use garbage 3000psi concrete on anything but fence posts! It is a couple of bucks more per yard to get 4000psi mud, and it is significantly better for anything structural. Pay the extra, get much, much, much better quality concrete, make sure the crew does the subgrade prep properly, vibrate it in, don't let them add 300 gallons of water to it so it is easier to work, and use minimum #4 bars @ 12" OC (I'd go 8" personally, but that's me with a 5" slab and grade beams or a 6" mat slab with thickened footers where the columns are.
schmellba99
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toolshed said:

Insulation depends on what you're doing inside of it. If it's a hobby space, I'd want some sort of insulation and a good ridge vent for air flow/ convection. I like the style that you can manually pop up for summer ventilation or close to retain heat in the winter.

Blanket insulation will give you some relief from heat/ cold. Spray foam will give more but may be overkill depending on what you're doing inside.

I only mention full foundation as you'd want some depth to the exterior perimeter of the slab to transfer the loads from the anchor bolts down into some weight/ mass of concrete.

Locally (BCS) I'd do a 24-30" exterior beam, but we tend to have highly expansive clay soils. DFW tends to have a wider range of soil types, so id defer to local tradesmen and building mfg for their recommendation.

When you say metal building, I assume you talking about I beam, weld or bolt up with purlings and R panel?

The beams or thickened edges where the columns are also are a counter mass to the uplift and side load forces imparted on the structure by the wind.

Shockingly, it is much harder for winds to take things off the ground if they weigh a lot or are anchored to the ground extremely well. Whodathunkit?
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