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Let's talk Evil Black Rifle zeroing

7,046 Views | 15 Replies | Last: 5 yr ago by Naveronski
BenderRodriguez
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AG
For those who own ARs and similar, what distance are you setting your zero for?

For those with multiples, are you using different zeroes for different guns or one standard for everything?

Bored and playing with Strelok, reconsidering how I zero my rifles based on an interesting article I read. Long story short, I think I'm about to Rezero everything I own, if I'm not going off half cocked on theory here. This is why I prefer shooting pistols.
BCStalk
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223 w/ red dot & magnifier @ 100 yards
223 w/ iron sights @ 50 yards
300blk w/ red dot @ 50 yards
6.5 Grendel w/ scope @ 200 yards
6.5 Grendel w/ thermal @ 100 yards
308 w/ DNV @ 100 yards

I'm all over the place and I didn't realize it until this post.
Tx-Ag2010
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AG
Everything I own (except for my 10/22) is zeroed at 100y.

I seldom shoot past 100-200 yards when hunting though.
lexofer
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AG
200 yards. That way I'm less than 1.5" off for anything from 20 to 230 yards. Can just hold on targets at most ranges.
Wycliffe
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So would you be zeroed at 50 and 200 then? With 200 being maximum point blank?
BenderRodriguez
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AG
Same ammo and same AR, just different sights?

Part of what started me down this rabbit hole is having everything from a 20" and 10.5" guns with 1:7 twist, and a 14.5" 1:8...and a 15.4" 1:12, and ammo from 50 to 75 gr...and that's just the 5.56 guns.
BCStalk
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I run the same ammo. I just like being sighted in at the distance I typically shoot at with each rifle. I like having a variety for different hunting applications.
EFE
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AG
1. figure dope with StrelokPro or Ballistic.
2. Ground truth
3. Input dope into excel and print range card
4. Tape dope card to rifle
NRH ag 10
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AG
I used a 200 yd zero when I had an aimpoint on my AR, now I use a 100 yd zero with a 1-6.5x scope.

I like 100 because the POI is never above the POA. I know a 200yd zero isn't that much of a deviance at 100, but I like simplicity and not having to think about any hold until I get out to longer ranges where I will usually have more time and be in a more stable position is helpful.
lexofer
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AG
Wycliffe said:

So would you be zeroed at 50 and 200 then? With 200 being maximum point blank?
Most AR rifles and loads are pretty close to zeroed at 50 yards if you zero at 200 but it's not exact.

Strelok shows my 68 gr. load is 0.3" low at 50 yards and my 55 gr. load is 0.15" low if I have a 200 yard zero. Doesn't sound like much but If I zeroed my 68 gr. load at 50 yards it would be >2" high at 150 yards and 1.2" high at 200 yards.

So in short with my 68 gr. load:
200 yard zero keeps POI <1.5" from POA from 20 to 230 yards.
50 yard zero POI >1.5" from POA from 100-190 yards.

I like it so I don't have to think about holdovers or holding under until the target is >230 yards out.
AgLA06
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AG
Self defense .300 blackout with red dot @ 25 yards.
Pistols @ 10 yards
Everything else @ 200 yards

It's enough to remember ballistic drops for the couple of rifles and convert to MOA. I don't want to worry about point of aim changes due to different zeros.
BenderRodriguez
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AG
AgLA06 said:

I don't want to worry about point of aim changes due to different zeros.


That is what got me interested in changing how I do things.

This article has me thinking I'd be better off using a MPBR style zero over the traditional 50/200, 36/300, 100, etc.

http://www.thenewrifleman.com/maximum-bullet-flight-getting-the-most-out-of-ar15-zero/

So far Strelok seems to be validating the article. The variation in the 100 yard zeros POA/POI between different guns and loads has been the most eye opening. 50/200 (my current zero technique) is better than 100 over a variety of distances, but trying out the MPBR, I should be able to make a hit on a 6" target with just a dead center hold out to 250 (just 200 with the 300 blk) with everything from 1:7 to 1:12 twist, 10.5" to 20", 55 gr to 75 gr. Aiming for a goal of hitting a 6" target at those ranges is not great precision shooting, but given the competitions/shooting I do, I don't have a need to stack hits on top of each other in .5" groups as much as I need the ability to make hits on slightly larger targets at unknown distances quickly (Cola Warrior is coming up).

Given the variety in both guns and optics I own, setting everything up to behave similarly from 0-250 sounds pretty handy to me, even if it takes more work on the front end doing oddball zero ranges for each gun dependent on ammo. More thinking now and less thinking while shooting sounds good.
SMM48
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AG
36 yds for 556. 10.3, 11.5, and 14.5 barrels. Eotech hws, Aimpoint t2, Trijicon 1.5x16, Trijicon accupoint 1-6, Trijicon vcog 1-6.
30 yds for 300 super. 9 inch barrel. Trijicon 1.5x24
15 yds 9mm, Trijicon rmr 2

https://www.vigilanceelite.com/blogs/vigilance-elite-blogs/36-yard-zero
CSTXAg92
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AG
50 yards for both 6.8 SBR and .223.
Puryear Playboy
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AG
50 yards for any AR used for social work and training. Always confirm with the ammo you are using, but 50/200 is close and very usable to 300 with a CCO.

Precision rifles are zeroed at either 100 or 200.
A.G.S.
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AG
16" and 18" barrel 5.56:
Step 1: Rough zero at 10 yds (POA 1.9" over POI) Multiple available 10 yd zero targets that can be printed.
Step 2: Irons: Stretch out to 25yds, zero for 50 yds w/ offset zero target (w/ 6 o'clock hold)
Magnified optic: Stretch out to 25, zero for 50 yds w/ offset zero target (my optic has holdovers for 100 yd zero)
Step 3: Verify at desired ranges.

From your posts I know that you obviously know your stuff and know multiple good ways to set a zero, but it helps me to break it down barney style in my own head.

Also, what irons you run Bender?
Naveronski
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AG
I'm biased, but this is what I do, if you don't mind a read.
It's explained better than I could, including the target choice.

https://primaryandsecondary.com/25m-m16m4-zero-target/
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