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Bad Boy Mower - Completely Dead

27,872 Views | 31 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by jmazz
jmazz
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AG
2011 CZT 60" w/27 HP Kohler

Went completely dead mid mow the other day. Tested battery...it's good. Replaced Solenoid. Replaced PTO/blade switch. Replaced main fuse. Checked everything I could. Still nothing...no clicks, no power, no attempt to even start. Can anyone think of anything else it might be before I haul it into the shop?

Ignition switch worth trying? Safety switches worth replacing? Other?
JP76
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Does it have a kill switch safety under the seat?

Check the ground ?
Are you sure the battery cable ends are tight ?
GSS
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So many interlocks switches, all likely in a series circuit....typically one on the seat, control handle positions, blade engagement, etc.


If you're savvy with a VOM, see where the voltage stops (I know, easier said than done).


Harbor Freight seems to always have "free VOM" certificates...not much to lose!
NRA Life
TSRA Life
jmazz
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AG
Switches below the arms, seat and parking break all appear normal. I suppose one could be bad but I don't really know how to check that other than just start replacing them one by one. All connections are secure and triple checked. The local Bad Boy dealer said to try replacing the ignition switch so that's next. The part is $13...I should've just bought it when I bought the two other (more expensive) parts. If the ignition switch doesn't do it...don't know what will so will probably take it in at that point.
Greenchiles
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AG
You try crossing the solenoid to see if it will start or turn over?
jmazz
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AG
No. I'm only semi handy. Once it starts getting into electrical, voltage, amps, bypass this, bypass that...it gets over my head.

The ignition switch didn't solve the problem. I'm stumped now. Maybe it's the engine starter, engine itself or just something else I'm not smart enough to figure out.
JP76
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Was it running and just died ?
Or never would start from last time it was run ?

Do you have a voltmeter ?

Did you have the battery load tested ?
Or just measured with a voltmeter ?
If you have a voltmeter you can check to see if it is getting power to the solenoid when the key is turned. If it isn't you will have to work back from there through the safety switches until you end up pre safety switch where the power is showing. If it is showing 12+ volts at the solenoid then it is probably the starter that is bad.
JAW3336
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AG
I'd bet money it is one of the kill switches.

I have a problem with my scag a few years ago and if one of the arms wasn't in the perfect position it wouldn't start. Took me a while to figure that one out.
Attack life, It's going to kill you anyway!
Agmechanic
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AG
Brake set?
Blade switch on?
a gmechanic 01@gma i l (no spaces)
jmazz
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AG
Parking brake set. Blade/PTO switch off (and now have a new one).
jmazz
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AG
Running and completely died.

Yes, I have a voltmeter but it's like Chinese to me. I suppose I could Google some basics and figure it out. I had the battery tested...it's good. I'll try the voltmeter/solenoid 'test' and see what that reads.
jmazz
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AG
I've looked at them all. Toggled them all. Made sure they're all secure, etc. It very well could be an issue with one but like I said earlier, I have no idea how to 'test' those other than just start replacing them. They're probably not but a few bucks but they're a pain to get to. I'm just about ready to call it and haul it into the shop.
Goose
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AG
Jumper around each kill switch (one at a time) until you figure out which one isn't closing. Then figure out how to repair/replace that switch.
Farmer Jack
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My dad has same mower. Same exact symptoms. Mechanic said it was a valve issue. Too tight i think.
Not sure of what he said exactly. Had it fixed. No problem since.
jmazz
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AG
I You Tubed how to test the solenoid and, assuming I did it correctly, I have 12 volts coming out but zero coming in. Per You Tube video, that means the problem lies somewhere other than the solenoid (which makes sense b/c the solenoid is brand new). So, seeing as how I also replaced the main fuse, PTO switch and ignition switch, that pretty much leaves the safety switches. I'm going to test each safety switch for continuity (which I also learned through You Tube). We'll see if that leads me to anything.
giddings_ag_06
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AG
jmazz said:

Running and completely died.


Did you make sure you didn't run out of gas?
normaleagle05
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AG
Wouldn't it still turn over if it ran out of gas?
Signel
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AG
Quote:

I'm going to test each safety switch for continuity (which I also learned through You Tube).
Heck yeah.. I took of electronics due to youtube videos. I now repair TVs and stereo equipment for fun. The cheap chinese auto ranging multimeters are the way to go for basic stuff. Takes a lot of the trouble out of using a meter.

flashplayer
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AG
I'd have hauled mine to the shop by now. But I salute your efforts.

Last year my kill switches on the stupid levers kept causing problems. They were a real pain in the ass to mess with. Finally repositioned them just right. Not looking forward to the next time it happens.

Will probably just bypass them all next time.
jmazz
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AG
It runs on gas?
jmazz
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AG
All safety switches have continuity. Headed to the shop tomorrow.
JP76
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But are you getting 12 volts to both sides to all the switches ?

Also is there a white wire running to the carburetor ?
jmazz
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AG
I don't know man. I'm defeated...throwing in the towel. Have learned a bit through this process though. Will ask the mechanic to teach me all he knows.
AggieChemist
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AG
jmazz said:

I don't know man. I'm defeated...throwing in the towel. Have learned a bit through this process though. Will ask the mechanic to teach me all he knows.
I doubt he'll do that. But if you ask REAL nice, he might just diagnose and fix your problem for $70/hr.
EskimoJoe
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Call bad boy and have them send the girl from their commercials out to fix it.
Sean98
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AG
EskimoJoe said:

Call bad boy and have them send the girl from their commercials out to fix it.

jmazz
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AG
Not getting volts to the switches. Did call Bad Boy and they said the deck should move (hydraulic deck) whether or not the engine starts, attempts to start, etc. The deck doesn't move. He told me to do all the things I've already done so perhaps it's faulty wiring somewhere. Taking it in.
ReelDeal
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AG
Kohler engines also had issues with the stator magnets coming un-glued and breaking causing shorts between coils and magneto. I've seen them trip out fuses and kill all power to lincoln welders. Unfortunately, this usually requires troubleshooting with a voltmeter and then extensive repairs if this is where the problem lies. Just a possibility. Keep us informed. Good Luck
jmazz
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AG
She's not bad...that grass is top notch though.
BMach
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AG
Check the oil, if all electrical options are good you may have seized it up if it's out of oil.
jmazz
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AG
Oil level checked out fine. Dropped the mower off yesterday. Will probably be a week or two before they even look at it. I'll report back once they diagnose the problem.
DeWrecking Crew
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Safety switches are for women, remove all the switches and just solder the wires together...definitely sounds like a bad switch
jmazz
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AG
Appears there was a shorted wire. Repair is in the works (along with a slew of other things I told them to do just b/c I went to the trouble of hauling it in).
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