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Truck towing capacities questions

4,265 Views | 25 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by jbeaman88
62strat
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I have a few questions to clear up exactly what I'm looking at and trying to calculate. I'm going to spell out 3 methods of calculating how much I can tow. 2013 Ford FX4 supercrew, 145" wb, 5.0L V8, normal receiver hitch. I went to a CAT scale already to get a baseline 'curb weight' (my truck, me, half tank of fuel, 2 car seats, and a tonneau cover)

Method 1;
GCWR is 13,500lbs according to ford website. Curb weight is 6240 lbs, so GCWR is curb weight plus other people/cargo + weight of trailer; 13500 = 6240+250 + x; x is 7010lbs. The 250 pounds accounts for my wife...

and two kids and say a few small bags/food for the car. This 7010lbs. sets the absolute upper limit of loaded weight of my trailer with my family in the cab. (7010 less anything I have in the bed of course)

Method 2;
My door jamb sticker says max payload is 1342lbs. Now, I've already eaten into payload some with me, the car seats and bed cover, so I'll change 250lbs to 500lbs for cargo, which is now family of 4, bed cover, car seats, etc.
So max payload = cargo + max trailer tongue weight; 1342 = 500 + x.
X (max tongue weight) = 842lbs. Meaning trailer can range say from 8420 (10% tongue weight) to 5613 (15% tongue weight).

Method 3;
Using GVWR on door jamb (max weight of vehicle plus people/cargo/tongue weight) is 7350 = 6240 + 250 + x (max tongue weight), putting max tongue weight at 860lbs, which is, using 15% tongue weight, a 5733lb trailer.


Method 1 and 2 are close enough for comfort, but both are quite a bit less than method 1. Does payload/GVWR calculation basically give you a max trailer weight, UP TO the GCWR calculation? Or do people just throw payload out the window and use GCWR and GVWR?

Now the discrepancies;
*My door jamb sticker GAWR is front/rear 3750/4050, for a total of 7800lbs. Different than the 7350 GVWR stamp right above it. Using 7800 GAWR, I'd have 450 more pounds of payload/tongue weight to work with, which is a whole lot of trailer. Which is correct? Is it GAWR UP TO the 7350?

*The ford brochure Link lists my towing cap at 7700lbs, and max payload at 1764 lbs. Both different than my sticker and my calculations. I assume this to be differences of options, and my door jamb sticker supercedes? Using those numbers gives you a curb weight of 5800.. is that likely the lightest a ford truck would weight at the factory? So they use that towing cap number since it's the max?

On the topic of payload, 100lbs of stuff in bed of truck is 100lbs of direct payload, but that same stuff in/on the trailer only adds 10-20% of 100lbs to your payload, correct? So while any cargo anywhere adds pound for pound to your GCWR, putting cargo in your trailer works to your advantage for reducing payload? I want to make sure I'm thinking about that correctly.


My door jamb sticker

Drip99
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What are you towing (travel trailer? length?) and how far are you towing it? You will almost always exceed the max payload before you exceed the capabilities of your tow vehicle. I have a 15 f150 3.5 eco supercrew with a max payload or 1840lbs. I tow a 30 foot TT (~7500lbs) a few times a year and am not overloaded however you can tell its a half ton truck and at times on the hill country roads can be a bit testy.
62strat
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Haven't purchased yet. Will be a travel trailer, want something 28-30', but trying to pinpoint this to give me a realistic idea of what I can pull. I wish I paid attention to gear ratios before I purchased the truck, the 3.73 can tow another 2000 pounds.
Drip99
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You will also need to figure in the weight of the weight distributing hitch (50-100lbs) in your payload calculations. After towing the 30 foot trailer (longest trip was from Austin to port a) I would prefer a 24-26 foot with a half ton truck as I just feel the 30 is pushing the limits. Don't listen to the rv sales guy when he tells you that you can tow this or that comfortably as a half ton truck is always going to be a half ton truck. That's just my opinion but when hauling my family I like to feel as safe and comfortable as possible.
HalifaxAg
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62strat said:

My door jamb sticker


Hmmmm, might want to examine your redacting strategies a bit. Me thinks your VIN is on full display on the other sticker.
harge57
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I tow a 27 foot with a 1/2 ton silverado with a 3.73.

I think its 5900 lbs dry. With water, fuel, generator, coolers, bbq grill, food, etc. it is likely running closer to 7500 lbs.

I will say you have to adjust your speed expectations ( I am used to cruising at 80mph). My truck pulls it very comfortably up to about 62 mph, anything over that and I start to notice my truck revving up significantly up hills etc. Just take it slow, and allow a lot of space in front of you. (for braking and for people to pass).

I have pulled around the hill country and to A&M games with no issues. I plan on taking it to Wyoming in September.

A couple other things:

Trailer brakes are a must. I recommend the Tekonsha P3

Weight distribution hitch is a must.

Pay careful attention to your truck and trailer tires. Inspect them for proper inflation and defects/separations/bulges regularly.

I recommend getting a transmission temp gauge if you don't have one built in (mine did). When its 105 out and your pulling up a lot of hills my transmission temp got around 215. I think if it gets over 250 it can start to be a problem. You may also want to change transmission fluid more often once you start towing.

It can seem like a lot of work sometimes but so far it has been worth it.
62strat
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JesusQuintana said:

You will also need to figure in the weight of the weight distributing hitch (50-100lbs) in your payload calculations. After towing the 30 foot trailer (longest trip was from Austin to port a) I would prefer a 24-26 foot with a half ton truck as I just feel the 30 is pushing the limits. Don't listen to the rv sales guy when he tells you that you can tow this or that comfortably as a half ton truck is always going to be a half ton truck. That's just my opinion but when hauling my family I like to feel as safe and comfortable as possible.

For what we're looking at the main difference between 30' and 25' is a inclusion of a couch. I'm not convinced we need it, but wife wants it. I can see how it would be nice to have the couch for just a place to sit.. otherwise, you're sitting at the dinette which is a horseshoe. Can't find a bunkhouse with dinette and couch for mid 20s'. Maybe I can scour a bit more. COme to think of it, I do remember seeing one where the couch was perpendicular to side of trailer, at foot of queen bed.. maybe I need to find more of those. That cuts off 3-4'.
62strat
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Harge 57, thanks, good info. I'm in CO, so high temps aren't a problem, but of course hills are.

My truck has a 'trailer brake' thing on my dash. Does that simply control trailer brakes that I have to put on? Do trailers typically come with brakes? I don't know anything about that area.

I believe I've seen transmission temp gauge in my dash when looking through the digital menu.

62 miles an hour.. I can get behind that.
Col. Steve Austin
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Generally speaking, travel trailers come with brakes and you wouldn't need to install them. They work off of the standard wiring harness you connect for your running lights and turn signals. We pull our trailer with a Tahoe and had the brake controller (along with the weight distribution anti-sway hitch) installed by the RV dealer. We picked up the Tahoe used and shopped for one that had the right setup (towing package, gear ratio, etc.) for the max tow rating of 8500 lbs.
Col. Steve Austin
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62strat said:

JesusQuintana said:

You will also need to figure in the weight of the weight distributing hitch (50-100lbs) in your payload calculations. After towing the 30 foot trailer (longest trip was from Austin to port a) I would prefer a 24-26 foot with a half ton truck as I just feel the 30 is pushing the limits. Don't listen to the rv sales guy when he tells you that you can tow this or that comfortably as a half ton truck is always going to be a half ton truck. That's just my opinion but when hauling my family I like to feel as safe and comfortable as possible.

For what we're looking at the main difference between 30' and 25' is a inclusion of a couch. I'm not convinced we need it, but wife wants it. I can see how it would be nice to have the couch for just a place to sit.. otherwise, you're sitting at the dinette which is a horseshoe. Can't find a bunkhouse with dinette and couch for mid 20s'. Maybe I can scour a bit more. COme to think of it, I do remember seeing one where the couch was perpendicular to side of trailer, at foot of queen bed.. maybe I need to find more of those. That cuts off 3-4'.

Take a look at a recent used model if the bigger trailer is breaking your budget. Depreciation is insane on travel trailers and you can likely pick up a good deal on a lightly used almost new model. Lots of people buy them and go a few times only to decide it's not really what they thought it would be. With a family, you will appreciate the extra space / seating room on those cold nights when it's too windy to sit by a campfire or raining cats and dogs and you just want to watch a movie and eat some popcorn. Plus if you have dogs that you will take with you, that extra 5 feet makes a huge difference in keeping them from being constantly underfoot.
MouthBQ98
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Your Ford probably came with an integrated brake controller if you bought the tow package, which I imagine you did. Basically, when you plug the trailer in, the truck should detect it and try to set the controller voltage automatically.

Any trailer grossing over 4500lb in Texas that isn't for Ag only will come with electric brakes.

I wouldn't sweat the details in towing. There are large safety margins built into the numbers, which are all formulaic estimates anyhow. A half ton truck will tow and stop most any bumper pull travel trailer up to 30 feet or so if you drive with appropriate care.
62strat
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HumbleAg said:

62strat said:

JesusQuintana said:

You will also need to figure in the weight of the weight distributing hitch (50-100lbs) in your payload calculations. After towing the 30 foot trailer (longest trip was from Austin to port a) I would prefer a 24-26 foot with a half ton truck as I just feel the 30 is pushing the limits. Don't listen to the rv sales guy when he tells you that you can tow this or that comfortably as a half ton truck is always going to be a half ton truck. That's just my opinion but when hauling my family I like to feel as safe and comfortable as possible.

For what we're looking at the main difference between 30' and 25' is a inclusion of a couch. I'm not convinced we need it, but wife wants it. I can see how it would be nice to have the couch for just a place to sit.. otherwise, you're sitting at the dinette which is a horseshoe. Can't find a bunkhouse with dinette and couch for mid 20s'. Maybe I can scour a bit more. COme to think of it, I do remember seeing one where the couch was perpendicular to side of trailer, at foot of queen bed.. maybe I need to find more of those. That cuts off 3-4'.

Take a look at a recent used model if the bigger trailer is breaking your budget. Depreciation is insane on travel trailers and you can likely pick up a good deal on a lightly used almost new model. Lots of people buy them and go a few times only to decide it's not really what they thought it would be. With a family, you will appreciate the extra space / seating room on those cold nights when it's too windy to sit by a campfire or raining cats and dogs and you just want to watch a movie and eat some popcorn. Plus if you have dogs that you will take with you, that extra 5 feet makes a huge difference in keeping them from being constantly underfoot.
I was talking mid 20s in length, not price. We are def. buying used, budget up to high teens.

Most models that have the couch bring it to 30'. Those without are 25ish feet. I may have to look more into the ultra lite trailers if we want to swing the couch with a slide. I'd like to stay under 5klbs for empty weight I think.

txyaloo
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My mom tows one of these with a half ton Silverado. It tows well and the layout isn't terrible. I think there are similar light weight models from other manufacturers.

https://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Dodd-RV-2906394/listing/2017-Forest-River-Cherokee-Grey-Wolf-26BH-120935444

Has the couch at the end of the bed, a dinette, and the rear bunks.
cbr
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Modern truck brakes and motors are so much better than old stuff I agree with not over thinking it. Hell I had a 6.2 4x4 chevy 1500 pulling my 24' bumper pull one time, full of stuff for a long move.

Brakes went out on the trailer in the middle of Kansas - but after a few tests the reality is it still stopped better than my old truck with trailer brakes working. So i kept going on the road trip. When I unloaded the trailer I realized that that trailer almost certainly weighed 17 or 18k. Basically double the rated capacity.

So don't be ridiculous, but don't sweat 10-20 percent here or there on weights. Just get good tires and trailer brakes and do your thing.

Col. Steve Austin
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62strat said:

HumbleAg said:

62strat said:

JesusQuintana said:

You will also need to figure in the weight of the weight distributing hitch (50-100lbs) in your payload calculations. After towing the 30 foot trailer (longest trip was from Austin to port a) I would prefer a 24-26 foot with a half ton truck as I just feel the 30 is pushing the limits. Don't listen to the rv sales guy when he tells you that you can tow this or that comfortably as a half ton truck is always going to be a half ton truck. That's just my opinion but when hauling my family I like to feel as safe and comfortable as possible.

For what we're looking at the main difference between 30' and 25' is a inclusion of a couch. I'm not convinced we need it, but wife wants it. I can see how it would be nice to have the couch for just a place to sit.. otherwise, you're sitting at the dinette which is a horseshoe. Can't find a bunkhouse with dinette and couch for mid 20s'. Maybe I can scour a bit more. COme to think of it, I do remember seeing one where the couch was perpendicular to side of trailer, at foot of queen bed.. maybe I need to find more of those. That cuts off 3-4'.

Take a look at a recent used model if the bigger trailer is breaking your budget. Depreciation is insane on travel trailers and you can likely pick up a good deal on a lightly used almost new model. Lots of people buy them and go a few times only to decide it's not really what they thought it would be. With a family, you will appreciate the extra space / seating room on those cold nights when it's too windy to sit by a campfire or raining cats and dogs and you just want to watch a movie and eat some popcorn. Plus if you have dogs that you will take with you, that extra 5 feet makes a huge difference in keeping them from being constantly underfoot.
I was talking mid 20s in length, not price. We are def. buying used, budget up to high teens.

Most models that have the couch bring it to 30'. Those without are 25ish feet. I may have to look more into the ultra lite trailers if we want to swing the couch with a slide. I'd like to stay under 5klbs for empty weight I think.


OK, misunderstood your mid-20s reference. Yes, pretty sure you're going to be looking at an ultra lite trailer to get into that size and weight combo. Not sure of a bunkhouse model in mid-20's length that has reasonable living area space. Good luck in your search!
Col. Steve Austin
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There are some Keystone Bullet Ultra Lite trailers in your size / weight range. This is a new one that is about $21K, should be able to get a good used one for a few thousand less.30' 9" long, 5030 lbs unloaded. Has the sofa, dinette and bunk beds.They have other similar models.

https://rvwholesalesuperstore.com/keystone/bullet/272bhs/
SPI-FlatsCatter 84
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Spend an hour or two on www.irv2.com

Specific pages on there (easy to navigate) that will give you more information than you need.....all from very experienced folks.

Also, its not what you can tow, its what you can stop.
Col. Steve Austin
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SPI-FlatsCatter 84 said:

Spend an hour or two on www.irv2.com

Specific pages on there (easy to navigate) that will give you more information than you need.....all from very experienced folks.

Also, its not what you can tow, its what you can stop.
Although with a properly set up brake controller, the trailer brakes should do almost all of the work (to stop itself).
62strat
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HumbleAg said:

There are some Keystone Bullet Ultra Lite trailers in your size / weight range. This is a new one that is about $21K, should be able to get a good used one for a few thousand less.30' 9" long, 5030 lbs unloaded. Has the sofa, dinette and bunk beds.They have other similar models.

https://rvwholesalesuperstore.com/keystone/bullet/272bhs/

Perfect.. I did a generic ultra lite search, and found highland ridge, palomino solaire and puma, startcraft, coachment apex and clipper, forest river.. didn't come across keystone.

yeh I know one is out there, I mentioned in another thread my cousin got a palomino solaire 25bhs, same layout as above but twin beds (and 7' width), and UVW is 4950, $20k new. Can't tell if this is 7 or 8 width, but assumed 8' with the double bunk and judging by space on side of queen.

It's just a matter of actually finding one of these models used, it may be harder than I think. We may have to go new.
Col. Steve Austin
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It's 8 feet wide (i.e. standard).

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2017-keystone-bullet-travel-trailer-floorplan-272bhs-tr29963
GrimesCoAg95
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I just picked up an Apex Ultra-lite 288BHS used. You could tow it with your truck. I learned a lot about travel trailers in the process. PM me if you want me to share my thoughts.
VanZandt92
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so much data
Bob_Ag
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Have a 14 f150 with the same towing capacity as you, 5.0 3.55 gears. I'm renting a prime time avenger 26bh for the 4th to test it out as we may buy that model. Dry weight around 4900, normal use probably around 6-6500. I think that is reasonable and having towed TTs before, I feel comfortable with that margin.

Just remember, the 5.0 needs to rev to get in the power band. Lock out 6th and maybe 5th gear to help your transmission. I also just put new rotors and pads on as I wasn't impressed with Fords stock setup.
Good luck.
62strat
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TomballAg95 said:

I just picked up an Apex Ultra-lite 288BHS used. You could tow it with your truck. I learned a lot about travel trailers in the process. PM me if you want me to share my thoughts.
at first we liked the second entry door into bathroom, but we're starting to see that if we sacrifice that, we can get the outdoor kitchen, where the bunks are on passenger side. I'm thinking I'll like that outdoor kitchen more than exterior bathroom entry. What are your thoughts on that?

I can't PM.
GrimesCoAg95
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The outdoor kitchen is nice as well. The second door helps keep the living area cleaner. We were trying to balance weight, features, and cost.

Features
We wanted to sleep 8-10 and have a slide out to give us more room. We wanted the second door to keep it cleaner. The outdoor sink would have been nice. I throw the old camp stove in for outdoor burners.

Weight
We found that we could get an aluminum framed trailer with fiberglass sides and stay in the 5000 lb dry weight. The other option is wood framed with aluminum siding, but they typically are heavier.

Cost
We were trying to stay in the low to mid-teens for a used model.

Col. Steve Austin
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62strat said:

TomballAg95 said:

I just picked up an Apex Ultra-lite 288BHS used. You could tow it with your truck. I learned a lot about travel trailers in the process. PM me if you want me to share my thoughts.
at first we liked the second entry door into bathroom, but we're starting to see that if we sacrifice that, we can get the outdoor kitchen, where the bunks are on passenger side. I'm thinking I'll like that outdoor kitchen more than exterior bathroom entry. What are your thoughts on that?

I can't PM.
Our TT has an outdoor "entertainment center" (i.e. LED TV and small refrigerator plus small amount of storage). I would trade that in a heartbeat for an outdoor kitchen with stove. Don't use the outdoor TV much at all but we do set up a Coleman stove to cook outdoors fairly often. It really helps to keep the living space inside cooler and free of smoke when you're cooking up your bacon, sausage and other essentials.
jbeaman88
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Based on some recent information I have seen at locations like THIS, I would be very selective on trailer brand if I were considering an ultralight purchase as it can mean compromises on materials of construction, fasteners and adhesives that could lead to quality/reliability issues down the road.
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