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*** Pre-Emergent & Herbicide FAQs ***

43,690 Views | 165 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by Funky Winkerbean
FincAg
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AG
Running thread of pre-emergent and weed questions and answers. When answering questions or adding advice please consider mentioning the following.

  • Where are you located?
  • What type of grass do you have?
  • What did you apply, how did you apply it, where did you acquire it?
  • Did you have a preexisting weed problem?
  • Which weeds were/are the problem and how did you remedy the issue?

There are two main resources that I have seen mentioned here. For the DFW and North Texas there is Neil Sperry.



http://neilsperry.com/2013/01/what-is-the-right-time-for-preemergents/
quote:
quote:Spring application (primarily for crabgrass and grassburs): March 5 - 15. Halts or Dimension.

Second spring application
(due to long growing season and possibility that crabgrass and grassburs could still germinate): June 5 - 15. There is no point in making this application if you did not make the first one. Halts or Dimension.

Fall application
(primarily for cool-season grassy weeds such as annual bluegrass, rescuegrass and rye): September 1 - 10. Halts or Dimension.

Fall application
(primarily for broadleafed weeds such as henbit, dandelions, clover and chickweed): September 1 - 10. Gallery. This treatment can be made the same day as the application for grassy weed prevention, but do them sequentially. Do not try to mix granules in your spreader.

Any time you intend to apply pre-emergent weedkillers and fertilizers at roughly the same time, apply the fertilizer first. Water it into the soil deeply. Wait a couple of days, then apply the pre-emergent granules and water lightly.

For those down in Houston, Randy Lemmon has a popular schedule.



http://www.randylemmon.com/lawns/gardenline-broadleaf.html <--- General tips link
http://www.randylemmon.com/lawns/fertilize.html <--- Pre emergent schedule link
http://www.randylemmon.com/pdf/randysfertilizationschedule.pdf <--- PDF of all schedules
quote:
Late October-Early November - Use two (2) different pre-emergent herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in February and March. First is a pre-emergent with Portrait or Gallery for broadleaf weeds like clover. Second, use a pre-emergent with Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan for grassy weeds like poa anna or annual bluegrass. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

February-March - Use the pre-emergent controls for grassy weeds again, to prevent such weeds as Crabgrass, Goosegrass and Dallisgrass from popping up late in the spring and summer. Again, use the grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

May-Early June - One more application of a grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan, or Treflan will keep fall weeds from invading from August on. There is also Barricade, Dimension-based or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

WARNING: Some people will be tempted to use a weed-and-feed at this time, but if you've been following the GardenLine herbicide schedule, there should never be a need. However, spot weed-and-feed treatments are recommended for those with turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been established for many years. Most weed-and-feeds contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs.
FincAg
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AG
We bought last year and I missed the fall and spring applications so I wanted to make sure I was prepared for the upcoming pre-emergent application this fall.

DFW area, St Augustine and Bermuda areas. Fighting sedge, clover and all the other normal weeds. Did a late spring application of Spectracide with Atrazine and Orthos's 2-4 D for each area of grass. Did really well with knocking everything out. Probably doing another application shortly plus Sledgehammer.

So the Dimensions pre-emergent, is that a stand along chemical or a fertilizer like Halts from Scotts? Something you can buy off the shelf or only online? I saw Dow's original Dimensions for $150 a half gallon, probably only using an ounce or two an application.

What do you use, where are you, and where did you acquire it?
FincAg
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AG
http://neilsperry.com/2016/08/fall-pre-emergent-time-is-here/

quote:
You have the chance in the next 10 days to do something that will pay dividends clear into late spring. Make your applications of pre-emergent herbicides before September 7. Winter weeds are set to start sprouting. It's better to be a week too early with the preventive treatment than one day too late.
Streetfighter 02
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I'm wondering if I apply preemergent and there is runoff into my garden if it will prevent veggies from germinating. Does it dissolve into the soil and remain mostly in place or will it mobilize with runoff? I also have concerns with herbicide hitting my garden although the heat has taken its toll on a lot of the plants already.
Milwaukees Best Light
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How do I get rid of Bermuda in my St. Augustine? Had a bad problem in the spot between the sidewalk and the street. Chunked down several rectangles of St. Augustine on top of the Bermuda/weeds. The Bermuda/weeds poked thru the cracks and are starting to take over the new rectangles. Put the rectangles down about 5 weeks ago, and put some leftover Scotts bonus S down at the same time. I am in Kemah and I hate yardwork, especially when it is hot.
tex2000
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Mow st. Augustine higher, the higher it is the more likely it is to choke out the Bermuda
tex2000
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Also a great website for all things turf and weeds etc is aggieturf.tamu.edu
tex2000
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The best time to apply pre emergents is when the soil temps near 65 degrees. That is the point when seeds begin to sprout. I know that Syngenta has a soil temperature graph on their website to predict when it reaches that threshold
Texas 1836
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Are Halts/Dimension and Gallery the only things I can use?

I have a hard time finding them sometimes. Especially Gallery. The local places that carry Gallery are usually out.

tex2000
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There are a lot of pre emergent options that you can use. Do you usually put out a granular product? For summer pre emergents I would recommend Freehand as it works on sedge too
Camo
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Very happy a thread like this started.

ST Augustine
Houston

I am having a major issue with crab grass like blades popping up in my yard. Not big clumps but one root with three extremely tall grass blades coming out all over the yard


I can't find anything that gives me a straight answer how to get rid of it, anyone have any recommendations?

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And then I have no idea what this stuff is along my driveway
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I follow your usual fertilizer schedule and I water every other day or every 3 days. I really don't neglect my yard. The sod it self is only 2 years old
tex2000
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Can you post pictures of it?
tamc1956ag
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S
I Aggieland Green I trust!!!
Texas 1836
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quote:
There are a lot of pre emergent options that you can use. Do you usually put out a granular product? For summer pre emergents I would recommend Freehand as it works on sedge too
Granular. I use a Scots rotary spreader.

And DFW, bermuda.
Milwaukees Best Light
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quote:
Mow st. Augustine higher, the higher it is the more likely it is to choke out the Bermuda
What about using a product like this on the Bermuda that is growing between the st Augustine rectangles? Worth the effort?

Ortho Grass B Gon
Streetfighter 02
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Domyownpestcontol.com has a hi yield preemergent that contains dimension among others.

edit: doyourownpestcontrol.com
Tx-Ag2010
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I had a great yard with only a few weeds until I decided to put out some weed and feed... Now I have ZERO St augustine in my back yard and a very sickly front yard.

I'm thinking that the only thing I can do at this point is to kill the entire yard with fire and start over.
tex2000
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I've never seen a product like that, I imagine it's kills all grasses so I would be hesitant to use it with your grass right there
tex2000
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Do you own pest control has a lot of good options for homeowners looking to do their own chemical applications
Funky Winkerbean
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Bottom pic is Rush. The other pic appears to be nutsedge. Not sure what will take out the Rush, but Sedgehammer will handle the nutsedge. May need more than one application.
Funky Winkerbean
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If you want a chemical solution, you might as well use RoundUp. Just be as careful and minimize getting on the St Augustine. Wait 36 hours and fertilize to promote growth of SA.
Funky Winkerbean
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Wouldn't hurt to raise your mower a notch either.
tex2000
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Certainty will also kill some other weeds, I'm not sure rush is on there, but the sedge will be destroyed by it
Milwaukees Best Light
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quote:
If you want a chemical solution, you might as well use RoundUp. Just be as careful and minimize getting on the St Augustine. Wait 36 hours and fertilize to promote growth of SA.


Is there another solution? I don't mow the lawn and I don't really speak with the folks that do it, so leaving it taller isn't a viable solution for me. Very complicated situation that I will tell the story of when it is all done.
Funky Winkerbean
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quote:
quote:
If you want a chemical solution, you might as well use RoundUp. Just be as careful and minimize getting on the St Augustine. Wait 36 hours and fertilize to promote growth of SA.


Is there another solution? I don't mow the lawn and I don't really speak with the folks that do it, so leaving it taller isn't a viable solution for me. Very complicated situation that I will tell the story of when it is all done.


Dig up the SA you put down, spray entire area with Roundup, wait 24 hours, put sod back.

If a nice yard isn't all that important, don't do anything.
Streetfighter 02
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If you're close to Fort Worth Archie's Gardenland has products that contain Gallery as well as Dimension. They also carry Image and Sedgehammer like products. Their prices were a little higher than what do your own pest control and Amazon have.
metrag06
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DFW (Bedford) and have St. A. New house and past owner neglected the yard so I'm trying to get it back using Neil's schedule.

I can find Halts no problem but as others have said Gallery has been tough. Suggestions on a good broad leaf pre emergent as a replacement? I'll do a pass with Halts and then one of the broadleaf as Sperry suggested.
HTownAg98
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quote:
I had a great yard with only a few weeds until I decided to put out some weed and feed... Now I have ZERO St augustine in my back yard and a very sickly front yard.

I'm thinking that the only thing I can do at this point is to kill the entire yard with fire and start over.

A weed and feed is rarely the right answer.
tex2000
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Ronstar or freehand
tbone94
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quote:
Very happy a thread like this started.

ST Augustine
Houston

I am having a major issue with crab grass like blades popping up in my yard. Not big clumps but one root with three extremely tall grass blades coming out all over the yard


I can't find anything that gives me a straight answer how to get rid of it, anyone have any recommendations?

[url=.html][/url]

[url=.html][/url]

[url=.html][/url]

And then I have no idea what this stuff is along my driveway
[url=.html][/url]

[url=.html][/url]

I follow your usual fertilizer schedule and I water every other day or every 3 days. I really don't neglect my yard. The sod it self is only 2 years old
Buy yourself some Sedgehammer online or at Site One landscape supply (formerly John Deere Landscape). Mix it with a small squirt of dishwashing liquid as a surfactant. Your weeds pictured are nutsedge and sandrush. The sandrush in your hand is more difficult and both will require repeat applications. Get to it now before it gets too late in the season. Begin spraying ti again next spring when it's actively growing.
ClickClack
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Sedgehammer Plus Turf Herbicide 13.5 Grams (2 Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PHNUOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OBeXxb53CY9JW

Surfactant already included so shouldn't need dish soap
B-1 83
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Put out "Halts" yesterday, and again in a few weeks. I'm determined to get ahead of the chickweed this year.
Funky Winkerbean
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quote:
Put out "Halts" yesterday, and again in a few weeks. I'm determined to get ahead of the chickweed this year.


Use Gallery, that stuff is nails on broad leaves.
FiTxAg04
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DFW. Tifway 419. Sod laid 2.5 months ago. Is it safe to apply pre-emergent this go around? Grass has established well. Neil states not to apply pre-emergent on sod younger than 4 months. Obvious answer to me is to not apply it, but I've been hand pulling dallis grass and nutsedge for the last month, and I am having a hard time accepting that I can't run this application. Getting tired of pulling weeds. Just wanted to get some other opinions.

Also, I applied a Lesco 18-24-12 three weeks ago as a starter fertilizer, and it really greened up the sod. Good to apply another round in a week?, and if so, should I use the 18-24-12 again? Not planning on getting any soil testing done until next growing season.
Funky Winkerbean
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Dalisgrass and nutsedge are perennial weeds and not controlled with preemergents. If you do put out a product for the winter weeds, use Dimension as it won't prune the roots of your new sod. Barricade and pendimethalin are root pruners.
 
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