I want to connect two network switches together like the following so I can get more wired connections at a location in my house that is far from my router.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-8-port-10-100-1000-gigabit-ethernet-unmanaged-switch-blue/8974018.p?skuId=8974018

Would this work, and would it result in any connection speed reduction?

Maybe a dumb question, but why not get a 16-port switch?

Just do what I did and buy this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR9S6FN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XXXVII said:

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I want to connect two network switches together like the following so I can get more wired connections at a location in my house that is far from my router.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-8-port-10-100-1000-gigabit-ethernet-unmanaged-switch-blue/8974018.p?skuId=8974018

Would this work, and would it result in any connection speed reduction?

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This should work. Your performance will probably be limited at the cable box (or other interface to your provider). If so you will not see much difference unless you have several systems contending for internet bandwidth at the same time.

boy09 said:

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Maybe a dumb question, but why not get a 16-port switch?

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I have a switch with multiple active connections connected into my google fiber router which only has one ethernet jack. I need several more wired connections in another room in my house, but I only want to run one long cable to the other room rather than a cable for each connection.

It will work fine, just be careful not to connect a 2nd link between the two switches or you could create a bridge loop although most switches have spanning tree protocol running these days to prevent this type of loop.

Yep... network loops can suck.

Your only problem will be in bottlenecking your data traffic. Each uplink is only up to 1 Gigabit. This is why better switches and enterprise switches have 10Gig uplinks or can stack.

You could also get a managed switch that allows you to setup a 2gig LAG, if you need more bandwidth. Granted, this would be more for your LAN bandwidth. Obviously, your router and internet speed is probably not over 1gig.

Had this happen to me. Drove 3 hours to get to the site because the network was flapping and their network people had no idea what to do. Spent most of the night trying to get the admin password for the switches that no one knew anymore. Finally started just unplugging things and tracked it down to a conference room. Went in there, found someone plugged in a cheapo switch under the table, with one network cable plugged into two ports. I was not happy.

Ended up replacing all those switches not much later with Cisco ones that I could manage and took them out of the loop.

I remember that. Just brutal

It's called cascading switches. Not that that's important, just that it has an actual term. Just listen to the people above.

I have a followup question to this. Is there such a thing as a wifi switch? A switch with 4 or so ports that I can plug a few things in like a weather station receiver, Hue lights hub, etc... currently I have everything plugged into an 8 port switch in my office but I would like to move some of the less important devices to a different room to declutter.

I currently have a mesh router network if that matters.

If you have a mesh network, can't you plug them into one of the satellites, or (if you need more ports) plug them into a switch and the switch into a satellite in the other room? There are Wireless Access Points you could use as a bridge, but that's exactly what the mesh satellites are made for. I also don't know how well access points work in a mesh network.

That is exactly what I thought I would do. But my satellites don't actually have a port. I just assumed they did. I'm using Eero. Maybe I made a poor decision on what mesh to use.

I did this while I was in college back in 2009.

I just flashed DD-WRT onto my little linksys wireless router and set it to bridge mode. Then I just connect it to the wifi. Now everything I plug into that router wirelessly connects back to the WAP.

I set this up becuase the wireless router was in my room but we needed a way to connect the Xbox360 to the internet. My roommates would play CoD online across that wireless bridge.

Can be a fun little project, for you: https://dd-wrt.com/

TxAg82 said:

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That is exactly what I thought I would do. But my satellites don't actually have a port. I just assumed they did. I'm using Eero. Maybe I made a poor decision on what mesh to use.

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I think all the mesh type satellites should have 4 wired ports!

TxAg82 said:

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That is exactly what I thought I would do. But my satellites don't actually have a port. I just assumed they did. I'm using Eero. Maybe I made a poor decision on what mesh to use.

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Each of my eero's have two ports. Depends on which eero model you have I guess.

Thanks for this. I think I figured out the problem. My kit came with 2 Eero Beacons that plug directly into an outlet. The beacons do not have any ports. I will pick up one of the $99 extenders for the upstairs and plug a switch up to it.

So this didn't work for me. The computer I connected to the unmanagned switch that was daisy-chanined to the first unmanaged switch only got a speed of 9 Mbps download with google fiber. What is going on?

Edit: Nevermind, I reset the second switch and I'm getting full speed now.

I'm having an issue with my set up now where sometimes the wired connection from the second switch in the chain is not getting an IP address assigned properly, so I just get the "No Internet" message in windows. Do I need to assign the IP manually, and if so, how does one choose an IP address?

DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

Picard said:

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DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

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Wrong, you need to have one of the cables plugged into the uplink port (far right) in order to do that.

MGS said:

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Picard said:

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DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

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Wrong, you need to have one of the cables plugged into the uplink port (far right) in order to do that.

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Picard said:

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MGS said:

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Picard said:

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DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

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Wrong, you need to have one of the cables plugged into the uplink port (far right) in order to do that.

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Uh. I think he was trying to add to the joke.

goodAg80 said:

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Picard said:

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MGS said:

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Picard said:

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DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

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Wrong, you need to have one of the cables plugged into the uplink port (far right) in order to do that.

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Uh. I think he was trying to add to the joke.

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If you know histag, you wouldn't be so sure

goodAg80 said:

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Picard said:

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MGS said:

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Picard said:

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DallasTeleAg said:

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DO NOT DO THIS!

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This one simple trick to get free internet the ISPs don't want you to know about!

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Wrong, you need to have one of the cables plugged into the uplink port (far right) in order to do that.

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Uh. I think he was trying to add to the joke.

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Yep, and I apparently did a poor job.

Always manually assign a switch, if you can.

DallasTeleAg said:

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Always manually assign a switch, if you can.

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How do I know what an allowable IP address would be?

You need to log into your router and see what the subnet for your network is. If the gateway is 192.168.0.1, then you will probably be able to assign anywhere from 192.168.0.2-256. A /24 subnet provides 256 IP addresses. I believe most default residential routers are /24.

Whatever it is, just take the next 2 IP addresses after your default gateway.

Granted, i'm not a network admin, so I may be off by a couple of IPs there. I'm just a guy that knows enough to be dangerous.

DallasTeleAg said:

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You need to log into your router and see what the subnet for your network is. If the gateway is 192.168.0.1, then you will probably be able to assign anywhere from 192.168.0.2-256. A /24 subnet provides 256 IP addresses. I believe most default residential routers are /24.

Whatever it is, just take the next 2 IP addresses after your default gateway.

Granted, i'm not a network admin, so I may be off by a couple of IPs there. I'm just a guy that knows enough to be dangerous.

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So I can see the following information by accessing my router:

Router LAN address
XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX

Subnet mask
YYY.YYY.YYY.YYY

DHCP Address Pool:
Starting IP
XXX.XXX.XXX.NN
Ending IP
XXX.XXX.XXX.MMM

Does this mean I can select any IP address from XXX.XXX.XXX.NN to XXX.XXX.XXX.MMM?

Correct.

XXXVII said:

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So I can see the following information by accessing my router:

Router LAN address
XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX

Subnet mask
YYY.YYY.YYY.YYY

DHCP Address Pool:
Starting IP
XXX.XXX.XXX.NN
Ending IP
XXX.XXX.XXX.MMM

Does this mean I can select any IP address from XXX.XXX.XXX.NN to XXX.XXX.XXX.MMM?

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It would actually be better to not select an IP from that range. And not the router LAN IP. Because you could be selecting an IP that is already used by another device.

If the range is from 100-254, use something below 100.

The exception is if you make a reservation in your router settings, where you reserve a selected IP from that range, to force your router to not assign it to anything else.

I'm still a little skeptical this will work. Because even connecting multiple switches together, you shouldn't have issues being leased an IP, so I think there may be something else going on. But it's worth a shot..

...but that IP wouldn't be on the subnet. How can he choose an IP address that is not available on the subnet?

Just download Angry IP Scanner and see which IPs are being used: https://angryip.org/