Diy 3d printers

3,397 Views | 28 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by boy09
Ag_of_08
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AG
Kind of proud of myself, finally got my anet a8 working tonight. Planning to improve to to the point I can print abs, them convert to a dbot style corexy

Not a hard build or bad kit for 190$. Next step is belt tensioners and to get autoleveling working.



Anyone else build there own?
boy09
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AG
I've had a Eustatios Spider V2 about 99% complete hardware-wise for a while now. I hit a mental roadblock when I got the the software side of things... I can move things around, but I haven't produced a print off of it yet.

Printed all the parts on my Folgertech Prusa i3.

I was originally looking CoreXY style printers for my second build, but someone suggested I take a look at the Eustathios. It's a solid printer, built for speed. There's also a very active Google Plus group for that particular printer.
Ag_of_08
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AG
I like that one, technically the movement is core xy, but with a different z axis right?
boy09
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The Z-axis is essentially the same, X and Y axis stay in the same plane and the bed moves up and down, usually with lead screws or ball screws.

The X and Y axis setup is a little different between CoreXY and the "Ultimaker-style" XY gantry. CoreXY machines have and hot end that moves back and forth on the X-axis, and the entire X-axis assembly moves back and forth on the Y-axis, if that makes sense...

It makes more sense if you just watch a video of it in action, but here's a description of the Ultimaker style mechanics:

"This family of printers is all based on the X/Y gantry mechanics of the Ultimaker. Ultimaker style mechanics utilizes a light hot-end/carriage which gets constrained by one X and one Y cross rod. Connected to these cross rods are rod ends which ride on side shafts that act both for power transmission of one axis (rotation) and as the linear guide for travel of the other axis (translation)."

Here's a video.
Ag_of_08
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AG



New electronics case printing
coppag92
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AG
That looks pretty cool. I may have to put me together one of these one day. How hard is it to convert for ABS?

So if you wanted to print a broken oscillating desk fan case, for example, would you need to get a 3D scanner? How hard would it be to design the part without scanner or any part for that matter? I know there are websites that have items you can download and print but I am asking about making your own things.

Also, ran across this video and guy made two mods on his Anet A8 that made for smoother printing. He printed a new cooling ring and modified the feeder stand so no hangups. (about 3:15 mark) Just fyi in case you run into similar problems. Think you can download file from www.thingiverse.com for cooling ring

boy09
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AG
There are several free 3D modeling softwares available out there. Download one of them and start drawing. It's not too difficult to start designing your own stuff. I use Sketchup, just because I'm familiar with it, but it kind of sucks for 3D printing. Slicer softwares have a lot of problems with models from sketchup for some reason.. Autocad Fusion360 is one of the more popular free modeling softwares.
coppag92
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AG
Yup. Was just watching video on youtube of guy printing replacement gear for his wife's salad spinner using Fusion 360. Designed gear from scratch on Fusion 360 using caliper and measurements off the old gear. Printing replacement parts like gears, knobs, spacers, lever, yada yada is what I was wanting printer for. I was wanting to print me a new 90 degree adapter for Gopro camera that broke.....file to download is available on Thingiverse along with bunch of other Gopro accessories. This kind of custom stuff is why I asked about scanner/software.

If you are teacher, hobbyist etc, you can dowload Fusion 360 for free to use. Be handy for Agof08 to have if designing something not found on thingiverse or elsewhere. Agof08 needs to post up some pics of items printed. Good luck.

http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/free-trial
Bradley.Kohr.II
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So, I've been chatting about a couple buddies. (One elderly electrical engineer, and another fabricator.)

Is there a reason 3D printers only have one head? It seems like if the mirror/laser arrangement from a spectrometer was copied, they'd be able to talk to one another well enough to not lose precision.

(The local 3D stainless printer said 20 microns, which is rather large by spectrometer standards, if I still remember things properly.)
Ag_of_08
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AG
There are commercially available 2 and 4 nozzle setups. This one could support a dual extruder, so.no there's no reason beyond complexity for a basic setup, I'm still learning the intricacies of.one extruder

Here's the y belt tensioner I made last night, unfortunately my 14hr electronics case failed.

coppag92
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Have patience. I read that you will have to play around and try a few times on stuff until you learn the machine and tweak the adjustments a bit to get good quality. There is a ton of info on mods and settings and troubleshooting on this machine out there.
Ag_of_08
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AG
Misunderstood you, you mean dual extruder operating independent of one another. That is possible, I'm just not sure the complication has reached the value point.

I'm not sure what top end machines can do now tbh. This little Cartesian unit, or even a hobby level corexy or delta is a long way from being able to print metals.

I'm enjoying this because it's a hell of a challenge to make run properly, and it's been a blast to be able to download, edit, and print out little pieces I need. I'm even learning a touch of cad.

Tonight has not been so fun. I've had to restart a 12 hour print 3 times, but I think I got it right
Ag_of_08
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AG


Completed y axis brace. This print actually came our remarkeably well, and has needed minimal modification to drop in. I already have the idler done.peintinf the motor.mount and rear brace now. Going to.print vertical and corner braces in the blue pla, and redo the x gantry in open builds vrail with an e3d style extruder and auto level. Should be every axis very much upgraded, and a lot of the issues im having eliminated.

Printing video with the new captured y front end installed.



If y'all are bored with these I'll stop posting, just thought a few might get interested. I'll be hitting some of you up for help with a raspberry pi and octoprint soon
coppag92
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AG
Hey that piece looks good. I like seeing what you created. Hope you get tweaked to your liking.
Ag_of_08
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AG
Sooooooo slight update...... I broke it. Seems overtigthening or the belt, combined with a really crappy motor mount design, cause catastrophic failure of the back frame plate. I have a way to fix it(piece of bar stock and a drill), but it made my urge to tinker go through the ceiling and well....


First: This should be here tomorrow. http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-mini-v-linear-actuator-bundle/ in the black 2020 rail.


Secondly: This should be here in the next week http://orballoprinting.com/en/home/115-prusa-steel-v4-300x200-mm.html



I will migrate most of the anet parts over to it, and will be making use of a friends printer until I get this one going.

So no more prints, but by the time I'm back up, I should be set to run speeds in the 60mm/s range for prints.
coppag92
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Ag_of_08
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AG
Despise my voice on video buuuuut



Pman17
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Nice, $190. I'll have to look into this. Been wanting to get one for awhile just didn't want to spend $500 or more on one. I wanna design and fabricate my own parts for things without the expense of a shop.
boy09
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AG
If cost is your concern, probably the best bang for your buck as far as 3D printers go right now is the Monoprice Maker Select.
Ag_of_08
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AG
Would have to disagree with you, another prusa clone is another prusa clone, you can get this one at or near that one with printed parts and an e3d clone
boy09
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AG
Not all prusa clones are created equal. Far from it. You won't get metal frame prusa that's ready to print straight out of the box for $315 dollars anywhere else.

I'm not trying to take away from a cheaper kit like you've got. If your really pinching pennies and like tinkering that's a great way to go. I just think the Maker Select gives you more for your money.
Ag_of_08
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AG
MY orbalo frame is here, and some new parts for the anet

Ag_of_08
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AG




The orballo p3steel xl frame is here and assembled. Wating on motors, lead screws, and odds and ends to get it finished.
coppag92
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AG
Pretty cool. But with new parts installed plus original cost, what are you into this thing for, if you do not mind me asking? Still think the print quality looks good for the cost.
Ag_of_08
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AG
coppag92 said:

Pretty cool. But with new parts installed plus original cost, what are you into this thing for, if you do not mind me asking? Still think the print quality looks good for the cost.


The anet was 165, and i've used about 20$ worth of plastic on upgrades, along with a 10$ piece of aluminum. Honestly the only issue I still wish to correct will be changing the extruder out for an e3d clone(20$), and using lm8uu(10$ for 10) bearings on the carriage. So the print quality as it sits, is well under 200$.


The x gantry was 125$, and that was all i had intended to do to it, as it resolves a major flaw in the prusa design with the two rods.


I have decided since then to build a completely new printer with the new extended length frame, and will use the x gantry kit in that. I've got about 450$ all in on the new printer, which got me a printer with ramps controller, hall effect end stops, e3d extruder and bowden, all new steppers, the complete 2020 style x axis kit, 8mm lead screw z axis, and the p3steel 200x300x200 frame, plus misc wire management plugs for the six inch rack mount electronics housings.

I probably didn't come out saving all that much on the higher end printer, but it will be built exactly as i want it, and if I chose to, I will migrate the cheaper anet electronics in to that frame, and use the newer electronics in a h-bot or other core xy build
boy09
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AG
This thread inspired me to finally do a rebuild on my Folgertech acrylic Prusa i3. Built the new frame out of wood, its WAY more solid than the acrylic frame. Also upgraded to Y-axis to use 8mm lead screws instead of 5mm threaded rod, changed the X-axis to Openbuilds V-slot linear rail from regular 8mm chrome rods, and added an E3D Titan extruded with an E3D Lite6 hot end. The y-axis carriage and heated bed I pretty much just kept as-is and moved over to the new machine.

It's tough doing a rebuild and trying to make sure you have all of your new printed parts ready before taking your printer out of commission. Notice the hunk wood holding my X-axis endstop... That should be one of my first prints once I get everything calibrated.


Ag_of_08
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Have you though about going to adjustable hall effect sensors? They make the end stops considerably more accurate, with no mechanical slop and minimum wear
boy09
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AG
I have not. Honestly, I don't really know anything about them.

After running some test prints last night, I'm starting to thing the Y-axis carriage is going to need some upgrades too...
Ag_of_08
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AG
They sell pre made units, they're magnetic sensor that trip in proximity, so your axis "hit" the end stop without touching.

Might also look in to the Toolson frame I linked above, unless you're wanting to go full extrusion, it's been amazing during assembly.


I'll try to.have new pics of my build up asap
boy09
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AG
I've got a couple of scrap pieces of aluminum extrusion lying around, not sure if any of them are long enough. If they are, I may explore that route. If not, I may give the Igus polymer bearings a try. As it stands right now, the lmu88 bearings on my y-axis sound horrible, and the whole thing is pretty sloppy. I was hoping it would be fine, but it's obvious it needs some upgrades.
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