Its time for "Ask the Agronomist(TM)".......

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B-1 83
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Lawn Fertilization 101:

There have been many questions the last few days on this subject. Here's a quick rundown. Warm season grasses such as bermudagrass and St. Augustine will not really break dormancy until the 6 inch ground temprature hits about 60 degrees. Here in the Hondo/Uvalde area that translates to late March to the first of April. A good rule of thumb is to watch the local farmers. When they start planting cotton, your grass should be waking up. If you fertilized in the fall (the most important time) you can hold off until the middle of April. If you did not, hit it about the first of March. What to use? Look for a good quality slow release fertilizer. Scott's makes some really good stuff, and believe it or not, Walmart sells a "Sams Choice" slow release that is good. A 3-1-2 ratio of N-P-K is a good start (such as 15-5-9). I highly recommend getting a soil test if you want to really fine tune your program. http://nmp.tamu.edu/ or http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/files/soilwebform.pdf If you want to go organic, try a product called "Texas T". I've been using it for over 3 years now and I am very pleased with the results. I also highly recommend a product called "Green Sand". It is a natural slow release iron and trace mineral supplement. Apply it early. Foloow all label directions and if anything under apply before you over apply. For most people, another shot of fertilizer in mid June is a decent idea and should carry you on through fall. I don't like "Weed and Feed" products with one minor exception - those intended for crabgrass and other annual grasses can be o.k. if used at the right time. That time is now. Annual grasses tent to germinate earlier than the base grass comes out. These products prevent germination, so if the crabgrass/goosegrass/grassburs are already up, you are too late.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 2/17/2005 7:41a).]
Harman Rabb Jr.
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Dear Agronomist,

I just bought a new house and the yard is in bad shape. It's a St. Augustine lawn (but I use that term loosely). There appears to be alot of weeds especially clover, I had planned to use a weed and feed and then plug the bare spots with St. Augustine. I appreciate your advice.

Help in Houston
agracer
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So should we use a 3-1-2 NPK by itself or use it in addition to the “green sand”.

Is Round-Up ok to use on those crab grass weeds that are already up in Houston? How do we keep future ones from coming up?

In KC I had a mix of blue grass and fescue and used the weed and feed to eliminate about 95% of the dandilions from coming up. (The first spring we were in our house we did not put down the weed and feed and one morning we woke up and had like 100+ dandilions in our yard!)

I just moved to Houston and don't know much about St. Augustine care and appreciate you posting about the weed-n-feed dangers on that earlier post.
B-1 83
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The best offense is a good defense. Start a good fertilization program, and St. Augustine is the king for choking out weeds (Zoysia is right next to it). If you have to kill the broadleaves, use a broadleaf weed killer that specifically says "For St. Augustine". Ortho Weed-B-Gone comes in 2 formulations - one is for "Southern Lawns" and is less likely to burn the Augustine.
B-1 83
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Green Sand is in additon to normal fertilization. I will give a good, deep green color - especially in the acid sandy soils in Houston. You can spot treat the crabgrass/goosegrass/sandburs with roundup, but remember, roundup is non-selective and will kill everything it touches. The pre-emerge weed and feeds for grasses will keep annual grasses out, and a fall application will nail winter annuals. Corn Gluten meal is an organic alternative to the chemical pre-emerge herbicides. Apply it at 20#/1000 sq. ft. NOW.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 2/17/2005 7:53a).]
agracer
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What I meant was is there a product, like round up, that I can spray directly onto the weed and kill it and not worry to much about my grass. Not so much a carpet bombing approach, more of a laser guided bomb approach.

Would the Ortho stuff be a hose end sprayer kind of thing that will kill what's there and also what is about to germinate?

Well you just answered that, we posted at the same time.

thanks

[This message has been edited by agracer (edited 2/17/2005 7:52a).]
ENG
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nm

[This message has been edited by ENGag89 (edited 2/17/2005 7:53a).]
Lutefisk
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Dear Agronomist,

I just bought a manure spreader, but The Wife and I can't agree on what type of manure to use. I prefer Grade-A pure corn-fed Angus manure, while she insists on something "made in America" and preferrably local, like Longhorn.

Can you help me out of this quagmire? Sincerely yours, Up-Sh|tz-Creek
agracer
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So to get this straight,

To kill the weeds now and future annual weeds I should apply the weed and feed NOW and also the Green Sand product. (but I thought the weed-and-feeds products were bad for St.Augustine at this time of year or is it still dormant enough that it won't cause a problem?).

I should apply the 3-2-1 NPK product at the first of April.
Farmer Jack
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B183, I know you're an agronomist, but what exactly do you do (work for?). I'm a future agronomist in the eastern half of the state.
Farmer Jack
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9T7Ag, why not see if you can get some poultry manure. Nutrient concentration is much higher than cattle manures.
B-1 83
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The dangerous "Weed and Feeds" are the ones with the 2,4-D and/or Proprionic acid in them. They are intended to kill broadleaf weeds that are already emerged. What makes them dangerous is the potential damage for trees, shrubs, and bedding plants. The not-so-dangerous ones (still not great for the environment) are the ones that are intended as pre-emerge for grasses. "Balan" is one common ingredient in those. When in doubt, use the corn gluten meal as a pre-emerge.

Using the Green Sand now gives it time to break down and become available for the grass by the time it breaks dormancy.
B-1 83
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Farmer Jack - I could tell you, but ...... That's a hint.

As far as what kind of manure to use, simply print out all threads from the General board, shred them, make compost, and spread.
capn00
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Can you find this "Green Sand" at Lowes, or more specialized stores only?
Farmer Jack
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??? I'm lost, but I usually am.
B-1 83
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Green Sand and Texas T are usually found at the more progressive garden stores.

Another hint Jack, you pay my salary ....
Twix
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Dear Agronomist:

I have a brown thumb. I managed to kill an ivy. What would you suggest? Do I need to talk my plant?
B-1 83
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Dear CT - ask your Dad. You probably over watered the poor ivy. Next time don't take it in the hot tub with you.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 2/17/2005 8:41a).]
AggieChemist
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Agronomist:

Can you still buy Tordon? I used to use it years ago but don't recall seeing it at the farm & home stores recently. I'll be needing to do some landscaping work in the spring and was gonna get some.
95_Aggie
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Dear Mr. Agronomist:

What do you suggest if I had a bad case of brown patch at the end of last summer? Is there a different ratio of fertilizer I should use. Should I do a preventative treatment for BP?

TIA
Twix
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Maybe I should have...it froze.
Hagen95
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Dear Ask the Agronomist™-
I get large outcropping of mushrooms in the turfgrass and I can only ingest so many

What do you suggest? Should I use a broadcast fungicide?
Professor
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Dear Agronomist:

My yard is left over from the house construction. How do you suggest getting a lawn started in an Arid area? You may assume I am blessed with only weeds and bare ground at this point.

Thanks in advance,
Lost in Lubbock
Twix
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^
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You're in Lubbock. Grow dirt.
Farmer Jack
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TAES Research Station??
B-1 83
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quote:
I get large outcropping of mushrooms in the turfgrass and I can only ingest so many

There goes my first suggestion ..... Just mow 'em and they'll go away (eventually). You can also apply whole ground corn meal at a rate of 10-20#/1000 sq ft. Not Aunt Jamima, but the stuff you buy at feed stores.

New lawn in Lubbock? Till it, level it, rake the leftover concrete chunks, and apply a good slow release fertilizer (The Texas T would be excellent for this). Sod it and water it lightly and often for the first month, then back off on the frequency, but water deeper. After a couple of months, hit it again with the fertilizer. You have lots of species in Lubbock to choose from. St. Augustine will not work! Try fescue, bermudagrass, or better yet one of the turf buffalograss varieties (609 is my favorite)if your lawn is not too shady (like in Lubbock it would be!).

Wrong answer Farmer. Caramel Twix knows, but she ain't telling.
DeangeloVickers
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quote:
Dear Mr. Agronomist:

What do you suggest if I had a bad case of brown patch at the end of last summer? Is there a different ratio of fertilizer I should use. Should I do a preventative treatment for BP?




Me too.. I just bought a home and the yard is in pretty dang good condition...(St. Augustine)
However the brown patch was very prevelant at the beginning of winter when we bought...
I applied fungicide...just wondering if there is anything besides fertilizing in March that I would need to do?



[This message has been edited by 12thmanClass01 (edited 2/17/2005 10:11a).]
Farmer Jack
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South Texas Ag Research??

and this is my final answer...

I'm tired of researching and guessing.
B-1 83
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Sorry, I missed the brown patch question. Brown patch usually becomes a problem in the fall as night time tempratures start ot cool. Excess nitrogen fertilizer seems to egg it on. The absolute K-I-N-G of wiping out brown patch is the whole ground cornmeal at 10-20# per 1000 sq ft. If you have had it in the past, I would go ahead and apply the 20# rate now on and around the areas that had it last fall, and then reapply in Sept/October. I had problems with brown patch until I went with the organic fertilizers.

Jack, it's an agency of the USDA found in most counties. NOT county Extension.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 2/17/2005 10:16a).]
uncover&humpit
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Right now is the best time to get weed control started, by using a pre-emergant weed control for Dallas grass, crab grass dolla weed, etc.
Farmer Jack
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NRCS?? I put that in another post but took it out thinking that was too easy.
B-1 83
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ding...ding...ding!!!!
Ag97
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What kinds of grass do you suggest for the College Station area? I've got St. Augustine in the front yard and a mix of St. Augustine and Bermuda in the back yard. The back yard is fairly shady. The St. Augustine variety I have isn't taking over in the shade. I've also got about a 20x40 area in the back yard I use as a dog run. Which grass would you suggest in there? I'm planning on tilling the yard this weekend and was planning on just buying some St. Augustine sod and throwing it down. How would fescue work in this area if I tried seeding it in?

Ag97
B-1 83
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It is probably too hot for fescue in CS and it can be a water s-u-c-k-e-r. St. Augustine is the best for CS. Fertilize and water and it will push out bermudagrass. There is no grass that grows worth a darn in the shade - make beds with ground cover in those areas. For the dog, nothing works better and takes more abuse than bermudagrass.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 2/17/2005 10:54a).]
SWOSU
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On atty ag's thread he said one of the active ingredients in the weed-n-feed he applied was propionic acid. What does that do to either weeds or St Augustine? If it's beneficial, wouldn't vinegar work about as well?
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