TDI thoughts and suggestions requested

2,889 Views | 21 Replies | Last: 7 yr ago by BigRobSA
agjake11
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AG
In honor of the possible settlement this week ive been trying to see what the best case scenario is for my Jetta TDI.(2012 in Texas with Nav, Fender, Sunroof at 78K). Im back and forth on sell early or late and ive tried to do the math but not sure it makes sense yet.

The TDI is currently financed and is my most expensive vehicle to insure and if i sell now i would take the money and get a cash car. The jetta is my daily driver from Rosenberg to downtown and thats about it other than short trips with wife and i as 3 car seats fit much better in the suburban.

Calculator used (https://agrahamg.github.io/VWBuybackCalculator/)
Sell in Nov 16 - Under 80K miles - Payment $20117, Payoff $9580, Cash Sum $10537
Sell in Oct 18 - Under 115K miles - Payment 19427, Payoff 4405, Cash Sum $9157, Payments made $-5865

Negating insurance an maintenance it would cost est $60/month for the car over the two years. i could refi and get better rate etc to change the payments or pay early to change that but i just see why keeping it vs cash vehicle would be better. Am i missing it?

the follow up would be suggestions for 10K car to replace the jetta with decent to drive car (spend 2.5 hrs a day in the car) and not hard to work with or decently reliable.

Edit: requirements for the car need to be: have backseat, not manual, would like sunroof/memory seat and aux or bluetooth

f2foxes2001
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AG
keep car. If you're driving from Rosenberg to H-tine, you've got the perfect car.
BigRobSA
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1) Keep car.
2) EGR delete.
3) Turboback exhaust.
4) Malone tune for more performance and CEL delete.
5) Profit!!
Flaith
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AG
You're about to get in to the mileage sweet spot for a clogged DPF and probably a sooted up intake manifold flapper (intake manifold replacement).

You will be able to avoid a timing belt service, so that's a bonus.

I'd probably sell early in your case and avoid paying the interest on the loan. Take the $10k and buy a few years old TL or TSX.
agjake11
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AG
Fair point I forgot to add I had an intermittent egr code come up a few weeks ago but hadn't come back since I cleared it recently. From my quick google it sounded like a dpf replacement coming soon.

Being unfamiliar with recent Honda motors how many miles is too many with the Acura? Seen a big range from 80k to 150k for years 2010 and older
agjake11
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AG
I was about to do all of this before the news broke I'd have to return to stock for the fix and re delete after.
Burdizzo
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AG
Dare I say, LS swap?
CDUB98
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AG
Have you done an NPV analysis? Might help.

Oh, and dont forget to add in a required plasti-dip on replacement vehicle.
Flaith
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AG
I'm waffling on whether to sell back now or later because I'm already deleted/tuned. I've also already done a timing belt, so the only big items in my future are a clutch and mayyyybe a turbo failure (regular 5k oil changes should delay this).

I also drive about 18-20k miles a year for work and get reimbursed, so the car generates income.
Bighamp03
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AG
I would either sell now, or take the "fix" and just keep it.

Without the emissions stuff, you still have the perfect car for your situation.

I wouldn't sell later. You run the risks of too many things happening. It gets totaled, engine/tran-ny/turbo/dpf,fuel pump, etc.

All things considered, I would take the money now and pay cash (maybe finance 3-5k more) for a late model Japanese sedan. Drastically reducing or completely eliminating the payment would be nice.
Bighamp03
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AG
I just got a 2015.5 Volvo S60 company car last week, so my decision was easy. I've submitted all of the paperwork to sentence my TDI to death by crushing.
Flaith
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AG
Bighamp03 said:

I would either sell now, or take the "fix" and just keep it.

Without the emissions stuff, you still have the perfect car for your situation.

I wouldn't sell later. You run the risks of too many things happening. It gets totaled, engine/tran-ny/turbo/dpf,fuel pump, etc.

All things considered, I would take the money now and pay cash (maybe finance 3-5k more) for a late model Japanese sedan. Drastically reducing or completely eliminating the payment would be nice.
If you're talking to OP, it's not really that easy. They haven't announced a fix yet, and they have until September 2018 to figure out one.

His options are:

1) sell now
2) sell later, hopefully before any big maintenance items
3) wait it out, maintain as needed for longevity (DPF, intake manifold, HPFF, etc), and get the fix when it is offered. Then, depending on legislation, he can drive it like that or get it deleted and tuned and continue driving for 300k miles.

The value of the car will never be higher than it is now, and that value stays the same for the next two years as long as you don't go over the average mileage. I say sell it sooner, avoid the maintenance, and replace with a reliable commuter that gets 30+ MPG.
Silvy
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AG
Burdizzo said:

Dare I say, LS swap?

agjake11
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AG
This is exactly it, the more i read and saw i just couldnt see what if any benefit would be to holding out until the end of the buy back. Fix was never really an option since its still a mythical solution and i never liked the EGR and emissions systems ruining motors.

I do think the best option will be to finance a car just over the cash value and then pay it off with the cash in the first few months. That way i can do a good search and have be more selective.

Now just to find the right 30mpg car that is fun to drive and not a chevy spark or similar.....
Flaith
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AG
I've just about made up my mind that I need a new Golf R to replace my JSW TDI. I hate having a car payment, but I can't find anything I want more than that car.
agjake11
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AG
I really want another diesel car, but there just arent many options and i know i would be burned at the stake for mentioning the 335D here (Deletes done of course)
Flaith
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AG
agjake11 said:

I really want another diesel car, but there just arent many options and i know i would be burned at the stake for mentioning the 335D here (Deletes done of course)
I looked hard at these, but it is VERY hard to find a 6MT sport package 335D for sale anywhere. They get snatched up quickly if you do.
BigRobSA
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Flaith said:

I've just about made up my mind that I need a new Golf R to replace my JSW TDI. I hate having a car payment, but I can't find anything I want more than that car.

We have a Stage 3 kit on the shelf!

agjake11
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AG
Is the Auto still not a good idea. Unfortunately i either need an auto so the wife can drive the car or find one and plan to teach her and a new clutch. Certainly needs the sport package and found a few auto trans models.
Flaith
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AG
Actually, I don't think they sold them with a 6 speed in the US now that I'm thinking about it. Sport package is a must, but that would be a cool car if you delete it, bc the DEF refill is really dumb
agjake11
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AG
i mean this it very much in the realm of what were talking here. plus delete obvious

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=77469&endYear=2017&modelCode1=335D&showcaseOwnerId=51349359&makeCode1=BMW&startYear=1981&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=50&maxPrice=15000&showcaseListingId=441244444&mmt=%5BBMW%5B335D%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&listingId=439738947&Log=0
Flaith
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AG
BigRobSA said:

Flaith said:

I've just about made up my mind that I need a new Golf R to replace my JSW TDI. I hate having a car payment, but I can't find anything I want more than that car.

We have a Stage 3 kit on the shelf!


what does a Stage 3 kit even entail for those cars? Bigger turbo, injectors, etc? APR stage II calls for full exhaust and beefier clutch to get to and handle over 400 ft-lbs. The car must be a little pocket rocket with that much power.

I think I need it.
BigRobSA
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It's actually a couple boxes. Bigger turbo, injectors PLUS the Euro mod to make it both Direct Injection and Port Injection. And a tune (the kit is APR).

Yes, you'd need a new clutch. We're replacing a clutch today on a Mk7 R that's just tuned.
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