Diagnose the Oddy problem!

3,191 Views | 33 Replies | Last: 7 yr ago by 1agswitchin4lanes
CanyonAg77
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AG
So the famous CA77 315,000 mile 2001 Honda Odyssey minivan won't start.

Starter turns engine, engine tries to run for a fraction of a second, dies. It's like it isn't getting fuel, or only gets enough fuel for that second, then quits.

The van has been sitting idle for several months while I got around to putting an A/C compressor on it. Got that done, and it's been running well for about a week. Wife drove it to work yesterday, it worked just fine. Went out this morning, won't start.

Going to put the scanner on it and also look for simple things like fuses or relays. Would welcome any suggestions.
The Wonderer
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KY AG
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AG
How far is her work?

Thinking maybe a clogged fuel filter?
The Wonderer
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AG
Fuel
Air
Spark

You're not getting one. Since it ran yesterday and is struggling today, I'm betting fuel pump based on reported symptoms. Check it and the fuel filter. Did you use stabilizer in the tank before not using it for months? My be an ethanol clog.
CanyonAg77
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AG
I didn't use fuel stabilizer. But then, I'm in the Panhandle, moisture is usually not a problem. Adjusted the valves and replaced plugs and coils during the A/C repair. Timing belt only has 20,000 miles or so.

Work is about 40 miles away.
ksp
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non serviceable fuel filter.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
The timing belt isnt broke is it?

What if you hold the key between start and run (without cranking)

This era Honda/Acura is known for the ignition lock contacts going out.
Mr. Dubi
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Fuel pump or relay?
Ag03 CQE
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AG
Stuck IAC valve?
CanyonAg77
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AG
I think the timing belt is fine. It will run for a second. Feels most like fuel problem, although Google does indicate ignition/relay problems are possible.

Got to run do some yard work, then attack the Oddy. Will check back in after a few hours if I find out the problem or am still stumped.
dubi
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AG
quote:
non serviceable fuel filter.
WTF do you do if it is clogged?
BigRobSA
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Use Drano.
CanyonAg77
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AG
Took fuel line loose at firewall. Gas pumps out, but low flow and low pressure. Fuel pump?
The Wonderer
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AG
sounds like it
CanyonAg77
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AG
I have a pressure gauge, but it only fits on a shrader valve, which the Oddy does not have.
EskimoJoe
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What's the price difference between a fuel pump and another 315000 mile Odyssey?

Hats off to you man. Not many people their equipment in shape and running that long.
CanyonAg77
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AG
$100 fuel pump.

Mileage, I'm shooting for 350K, at which time the tires and the timing belt will be due.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
REpalce the sock/strainer too.

The good news is there is a fuel pump access hole under the 2nd row of seats.

The bad news is that you'll need a special tool (or make one yourself).

Lisle has one and Auto Zone may rent them.

Also make sure you have all the doors and windows open you do this and lots of rags to catch spills and leave the car open for a few hours after to make sure the fumes go away, or put a pink floyd CD in for whoever drives the car next.
CanyonAg77
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AG
No Vatozone in beautiful downtown Canyon. O'Reillys and NAPA, and NAPA usually has plenty of tools to rent. I assume a three pound hammer and a screwdriver are not recommended?

Have a strainer/sock on order. Moved it to the shop tonight, but I've got to go plant a little wheat tomorrow and Friday. So Oddy goes on the back burner. Wife will drive the nice car (2008 MDX) tomorrow.
ksp
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quote:
quote:
non serviceable fuel filter.
WTF do you do if it is clogged?
You can replace it , it is in the tank. If replacing the fuel pump I would replace it.

Never once in almost 9 years saw one clogged or restricted.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
CanyonAg77
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AG
Replaced fuel pump and sock. Old sock was in good shape. Took a lot of cranking to get it started. When it finally got going, it would go okay as long as you accelerated slowly. Get above 2500 and it bucks like a bronc.

After a bit, bucking went away and you could accelerate smoothly. Idle a little rough. Threw a "crankshaft position sensor" code. Topped.off gas, had to crank a lot to restart.

Parked it, came back this afternoon. Hard to start, wont idle, only runs if you hold a little throttle

Aargh
CanyonAg77
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AG
Hmmnn. Just now started fine. Will run at ldle, but stumbles every few seconds

Going to drive and see if I get a code

......and it died when I put it in gear and cant get it to restart
CanyonAg77
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AG
and now it started just fine, running down thr highway smooth as silk
dubi
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AG
And now he is stranded on the side of the rural road in Canyon, TX.

Checkin and let us know if you are alive!
CanyonAg77
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AG
Small town, and I always test drive down the highway where I know lots of people. Including which one leaves keys in his vehicles under the philosophy that he wants thieves to take the pickup and not come in the house.

So 17 mile test run. Runs great. Restarts with ease. Slight surge at idle. Idles at about 800 drops to 600, back to 800 in about a 2 second cycle....Except now its idling smootly.

Did it take this long to purge all the air out of the system, or is this a glitch from the computer since the battery was unhooked?

....and the surge is back.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Remove battery neg terminal for 15 mins, also clean throttle body.
CanyonAg77
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AG
Will give that a shot this morning
dubi
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AG
quote:
Remove battery neg terminal for 15 mins, also clean throttle body.

Step 2: GoPro + Tannerite!
KY AG
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AG
I think dubi *realllllly* wants to tannerite something.
dubi
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AG
quote:
I think dubi *realllllly* wants to tannerite something.
YES!
CanyonAg77
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AG
Tannerite is looking better. Local guy is pretty much stumped. Got a crank position sensor code, he thinks that could be it, but he also thinks we should replace the camshaft position sensor, because it seems to come and go.

He figured $600 to $700 parts and labor. Mainly labor, the sensors are about $70.

But he also thinks the computer could be bad. Thinks if the sensors don't fix it, then we need to put a new ECU, figures another $600.

So I'm looking online, and finding used ECUs for as little as $50, and remans for about $400.

Temptation is to find a wrecking yard ECU and try that first. Then determine if I want to spend $700 for him to put on the sensors, or attack it myself. Timing belt only has about 20K miles, but maybe replace it ($100) as well???

AggieGunslinger
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AG
These dollar figures you are throwing around for repair estimates, aren't they like 17.5 times the value of the vehicle?
dubi
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CanyonAg77 said:

Tannerite is looking better. Local guy is pretty much stumped. Got a crank position sensor code, he thinks that could be it, but he also thinks we should replace the camshaft position sensor, because it seems to come and go.

He figured $600 to $700 parts and labor. Mainly labor, the sensors are about $70.

But he also thinks the computer could be bad. Thinks if the sensors don't fix it, then we need to put a new ECU, figures another $600.

So I'm looking online, and finding used ECUs for as little as $50, and remans for about $400.

Temptation is to find a wrecking yard ECU and try that first. Then determine if I want to spend $700 for him to put on the sensors, or attack it myself. Timing belt only has about 20K miles, but maybe replace it ($100) as well???



If they are replacing the cam/crank sensor seems like that it will be all disassembled and you could get a new timing belt for the cost of the part?
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
If he had diag equipment he could use Mode 6 to see what each of the sensors is reporting to verify if they're good or no.
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